While many of Europe's magnificent cities remain eclipsed by their more well-known counterparts, it is a treasure store of enchanted towns. From the artistic appeal…
Bagni di Lucca is an enchanting comune located in the heart of Tuscany, Italy, with a population of roughly 6,100 inhabitants distributed in 27 designated frazioni. This scenic town, situated in the Province of Lucca, has a profound history that extends to antiquity, with its hot springs drawing visitors since the Etruscan and Roman periods.
The first recorded reference to Bagni di Lucca, formerly referred to as “Corsena,” is found in an official document from 983 AD. This document outlines the transfer of territory by Bishop Teudogrimo to Fraolmo of Corvaresi. The adjacent environment has verdant chestnut forests, acknowledged by the esteemed Roman poet Virgil.
The region’s history is intricately connected with several governing authorities. The Lombards were among the initial known inhabitants, with their commander Alboin establishing a foothold in the Serchio Valley. During this era, they erected guard towers that were subsequently converted into churches, with Pieve di Controne exemplifying this metamorphosis.
Over the years, Bagni di Lucca changed ownership among many feudal families. The Suffredinghi, Porcareschi, and Lupari families dominated the region during the 10th and 11th centuries. By the 12th century, the municipality of Lucca had asserted dominion over the province. In 1308, a notable administrative alteration transpired as Lucca consolidated Bagni di Lucca with other settlements, establishing the “Vicarship of the Lima Valley.” This framework, which assigned authority of each hamlet to a member of the Bagni di Lucca parish, continues to impact local customs and religious practices today.
The 14th century signified a pivotal moment for Bagni di Lucca, as Lucca acknowledged the economic possibilities of the town’s hot springs. This resulted in the emergence of Bagni di Lucca as a destination for tourists, including prominent international personalities, establishing the foundation for its future as a distinguished resort town.
During the 19th century, Bagni di Lucca attained the zenith of its prominence, especially under the French occupation. The village served as the summer retreat for Napoleon’s court and his sister, Elisa Baciocchi. This era of magnificence was characterized by the establishment of a casino, which evolved into a center for nightlife and social events with an opulent ballroom for dancing.
Subsequent to the Congress of Vienna in 1814, Bagni di Lucca was included in the Duchy of Lucca under the governance of Maria Luisa of Bourbon. The hamlet thrived as a favored summer resort, particularly among English tourists, who founded a Protestant church in the vicinity. This era of plenty was not destined to last perpetually.
In 1847, Lucca, together with Bagni di Lucca, was transferred to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany under Grand Duke Leopold II of Lorraine. The leadership transition initiated a downturn for the springs and casino as a destination, mostly attributable to the Grand Duke’s inclination towards a more reclusive lifestyle. The casino closed in 1853 and reopened in 1861 when Lucca joined the United Kingdom of Italy.
The hot springs, integral to Bagni di Lucca’s identity, are dispersed over the Lima River valley. Ponte Serraglio is the principal settlement in the thermal spring region, with supplementary springs and baths situated at Villa, Docce Bassi, and Bagno Caldo. These springs have drawn many prominent individuals throughout history, including writers and poets, with some reports indicating that Dante visited on his travels to Northern Italy.
The springs’ medicinal powers received scholarly acknowledgment in the 16th century when Fallopius attributed his cure for deafness to them. The waters, ranging in temperature from 36 to 54 °C, are abundant in carbonic acid gas and comprise lime, magnesium, and salt compounds. Dr. Montecatini of the University of Pisa, after whom the renowned “Montecatini terme” is called, further underscored their medical benefits.
Bagni di Lucca is renowned not just for its hot springs but also for its exceptional architectural attributes. The Ponte della Maddalena, also referred to as the Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s Bridge), is a medieval structure originating from 1100. It spans the Serchio River and is renowned for its unique high arch and the myth associated with its construction. Local legend holds that the devil assisted in the construction of the bridge in return for the first soul to cross it.
The town features several old religious buildings. The Pieve of San Cassiano, built prior to 722, has Renaissance artworks, including a picture by Jacopo della Quercia. Likewise, the parish church of San Paolo a Vico Pancellorum, established in 873, houses a collection of Renaissance masterpieces.
In recent history, Bagni di Lucca has commemorated its fallen troops with a war memorial at San Cassiano, dedicated to the dead of both World Wars from the town and its seven districts. The town’s extensive cultural legacy is maintained at the Bagni di Lucca Biblioteca, located in the former English Protestant church, which today functions as a repository for centuries-old archives and records.
Currently, Bagni di Lucca’s economy is predominantly dependent on tourism, using its hot springs, historical architecture, and premium lodging options. Although local companies manufacture paper, construction materials, and machinery, several individuals in the adjacent regions persist in agricultural activities. The municipality confronts the problems of modernity as certain sectors migrate to larger urban hubs like Milan. The lasting allure of its hot springs and historical significance continues to attract visitors, guaranteeing that tourism remains an essential economic lifeblood for this picturesque Tuscan comune.
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