Zakynthos

Zakynthos is a Greek island in the Ionian Sea, covering 405.55 km² with 123 km of coastline and hosting 40,759 residents as of the 2011 census. Situated roughly 20 km west of the Peloponnese mainland and 15 km south of Kefalonia, it ranks third among the Ionian Islands by size. Its terrain rises to 758 m at Mount Vrachionas and its capital, also named Zakynthos, occupies the northern shore’s eastern edge.

From its pre-Mycenaean name to its Venetian era epithet “Flower of the East,” the island’s identity reflects centuries of human and natural influence. Its arrowhead form, with Cape Skinari at the northwestern edge, divides a rugged western plateau and cliffs from a fertile eastern plain where villages cluster along sandy bays. This duality shapes both the island’s agricultural output—olive oil, currants, grapes and citrus—and its visitor circuits, which draw explorers toward high cliffs and calm beaches alike.

In antiquity, the island appeared in myth as the realm of Zacynthus, son of a legendary Arcadian leader. Venetian rule from 1484 to 1797 left stone walls, chapel ruins and the name that Italian speakers still use: Zacinto or Zante. An earthquake in 1953 destroyed much of its Venetian architecture, yet fragments persist in ruined castle walls at Bochali hill and scattered masonry on Cape Skinari.

The western half of the island rises in a plateau that descends into sheer cliffs at Keri and along the stretch from Keri lighthouse to Skinari. Here the Ionian’s wind-ruffled waters carve arches and caves into white rock, most spectacularly in the Blue Caves north of Cape Skinari. These channels reveal water so clear that in morning light its recesses appear electric blue. Boat operators leave from Agios Nikolaos and Alykanas, navigating narrow openings to showcase Kianoun Cave, the largest of these formations.

On the eastern side the land flattens into a densely inhabited plain. The capital, known locally as Chora, hosts the main port, a ferry link to Kyllini and lanes edged by shops and tavernas that recall the piazza of Venice’s San Marco in layout if not in ornament. Roads fan outward: one to Volimes in the north, another to Keri in the south, and a third to Vassilikos peninsula in the northeast. A winding route across the interior connects these arteries, forming a circuit that circumscribes the island.

The Bay of Laganas in the southeast encloses a shallow expanse protected by the peninsulas of Vassilikos and Marathia. Here the first National Marine Park in Greece safeguards nesting grounds for Caretta caretta. Between May and early July females haul themselves ashore on Gerakas and Dafni beaches to excavate nests. Light pollution from resort towns once misled hatchlings; deck chairs crushed eggs and off-season neglect threatened emerging turtles. Recent interventions by authorities and volunteers have reduced disturbances, though some private “turtle tours” continue to stress the endangered population.

Navagio Beach on the northwestern coast exemplifies the island’s dramatic contrasts. A 1981 shipwreck of a smuggler’s vessel became stranded in a cove flanked by limestone walls. To avoid crowds—often dozens of boats depositing hundreds of visitors by mid-day—arrivals before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m. yield relative solitude. A narrow road to the Agios Gergios monastery leads to a viewing platform 180 m above the beach, providing the panorama more than the sand below.

Further south, Marathonissi islet—“Turtle Island”—bears palm-like vegetation and hidden sea caves. Access from Limni Keriou complements the Keri village experience, where a hilltop hamlet and lighthouse overlook cliffs that drop into turquoise depths. The main road in this area skirts a scenic lake and descends toward pebble beaches edged by cafés.

On the northeast coast Tsilivi and Alykes/Alykanas form family-oriented resorts. Tsilivi spreads along a long sandy shore with watersports outlets and sunbed services. Alykes and its neighbor Alykanas share a continuous stretch backed by bars and eateries. At Alykanas’s eastern edge lies Xehoriati Beach, a narrow spit of fine sand that shelves gently into water seldom deeper than a few meters. Two local restaurants—Redskins and Shoestring—serve a mix of Italian and Greek dishes alongside sea views, and children climb aboard a sunken yacht moored offshore.

To the southeast Kalamaki and Laganas share an unbroken beach. Kalamaki accommodates families in modest hotels, while Laganas draws younger crowds to its concentration of bars and nightclubs. Both benefit from the nearby airport, opened in 1972 and 4.3 km from the city, which handles charter traffic from northern Europe during May to October and domestic flights to Athens year-round. EasyJet and Wizz Air maintain seasonal links to UK and Central European cities. The airport closes at night, and ground transport includes taxis priced at €10–15 or a 1.5-hour walk along signage-marked roads.

Agios Nikolaos village on the northeast peninsula hosts the secondary port with ferries to Kefalonia. Dayboat services depart here for the northern caves, and shore restaurants cluster amid walnut trees. Elsewhere on the Vassilikos peninsula, Gerakas and Dafni beaches lie within a traffic-free zone; Gerakas reserves swathes of sand for hatchlings, while Dafni remains a quiet stretch with sparse amenities.

Inland villages such as Volimes and Kampi preserve traditional handicrafts and hospitality. Volimes, at the northern rim of the mountains, trades woven textiles and ceramics. Kampi, a clifftop settlement on the western coast, offers sunset views but limited road access. Between them lies the Limnionas bay—secluded, quiet and served by a single taverna perched above water.

Outdoor pursuits range from scuba diving at “The Arch” and Keri Caves to cycling across flatter eastern roads. Overfishing has reduced local fish stocks, yet divers still explore rocky outcrops and submerged caverns. Rental shops in Laganas, Keri and Tsilivi equip enthusiasts for day trips. Turtle-spotting tours operate along the southern shore, though ethical concerns arise when boats disturb nesting females or hatchlings; officials advise passive shoreline observation.

Local produce underscores island life. Olive oil presses operate year-round, currants are harvested in late summer, and vineyards yield small, seedless Zante grapes destined for export. Citrus orchards—mandarin, lemon and orange—line rivulets that swell in winter rains. The average annual temperature of 18.5 °C and elevated humidity support dense undergrowth; fragments of laurel, cypress and pine forest dot slopes above the plains.

Social life centers on cafés, village squares and bars. In Zakynthos town, establishments range from small coffee houses to bars specializing in local wines and Metaxa brandy. On beaches, both Greek Mythos and Alfa beers appear alongside standard ouzo. Laganas hosts British-style pubs and clubs that cater to international visitors.

A circumnavigation by car remains the ideal introduction. From the capital one can trace the coast to Tsilivi, then ascend to Alykes, cross over to Agios Nikolaos and proceed north past the Navagio viewing platform to Volimes. Turning west, Limnionas offers a pause before the road heads south to Kampi and the Keri lighthouse. A final leg through the plateau returns to town, passing vineyards and olive groves before closing the loop.

Public transportation consists of infrequent bus routes connecting major settlements; schedules shift in low season. Taxis serve villages without fixed stops. For greater flexibility, rental cars are available from agencies at the airport, port and in resort towns, with four-wheel drives recommended for rough roads. Scooters and motorbikes offer nimble transit but demand caution on steep, narrow routes. Bicycle hire costs €4–8 per day, often including a lock and basket, although the hilliest areas deter all but experienced cyclists.

Cultural landmarks include the Navagio shipwreck, the ruins of Venetian fortifications on Cape Skinari, and the Dionysios Solomos Museum in town, commemorating the author of Greece’s national anthem. The Milan Maritime Museum in Agios Sostis preserves artifacts of the island’s sea heritage under the guardianship of local volunteers.

Despite the tourist influx—especially of visitors from the United Kingdom—the island retains an interior of quiet hills and flowering fields. Spring sees an Easter procession wind through villages and wildflowers stain the slopes. Summer brings heat and the laughter of holidaymakers, yet even then one can retreat along mountain tracks to discover solitary monasteries and hidden coves. Winter rains recharge wells and streams, and the slender tourist season yields to daily life among olive trees and coastal winds.

Zakynthos balances its role as a destination with the preservation of ecological and cultural assets. Protected beaches safeguard turtles, while local authorities and volunteers patrol nesting sites. Efforts to limit lights and restrict vehicles on breeding sands demonstrate an island attentive to the needs of its wildlife. At the same time, hospitality venues adjust their offerings to respect seasonal rhythms—quiet after dusk, subdued when the offshore gales stir.

This island’s essence emerges in its contrasts: fertile plains that yield oil and grapes, rocky plateaus that catch the winds, ruins that whisper of past rulers and modern villages that welcome global visitors. Its sinews of road and sea connect ports to isolated peninsulas, while the call to the hermitage of Bochali or the hush of Dafni beach reward those who move beyond the main thoroughfares. Zakynthos stands as a place where history, culture and nature converge, observed in stone and sand, in olives and turtle nests, in sun-warmed cafés and lone chapels perched atop windswept cliffs.