Tamales de masa de arroz: Guapi rice tamales

Cook the potatoes and eggs Peel and dice the potatoes, then simmer them in unsalted water until a knife slips in easily but the cubes still hold their shape, about 12–15 minutes. Drain and cool. Hard-boil the eggs until firm, cool them in cold water, peel and cut each into eight wedges. Keep both refrigerated if preparing them ahead.

Make the Pacific refrito Warm the achiote oil in a wide heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Add the long and yellow onions, garlic, mild ají and optional green pepper. Cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring, until softened without browning. Add the tomatoes, chillangua, poleo, 4 g salt and pepper. Cook gently for 10–12 minutes, stirring often, until the tomatoes collapse and the mixture becomes soft and spoonable. Measure 240 ml for the rice masa and reserve the rest for the meat filling.

Cook the coconut rice until very soft Combine the water, coconut milk, coconut oil and 4 g of the masa salt in a large lidded pot. Bring just to a simmer, stir in the drained rice, then reduce the heat to low. Cook uncovered at a gentle simmer, stirring frequently across the base, until the rice grains have burst and the mixture is thick, sticky and still moist, about 25–35 minutes. Add hot water in small splashes if it begins to catch before the rice is very soft. Stir in 240 ml of the refrito and black pepper.

Grind the masa Take the pot off the heat. While the rice mixture is still warm, grind it in batches with a sturdy pestle or pulse briefly in a food processor until the grains mostly break down and the masa holds together. Leave some texture; do not blend it into a smooth purée. Cover and keep the masa hot while you prepare the filling. If it firms too much, work in a little hot water.

Cook the meats with potatoes and refrito In a heavy pot, fry the pork ribs over medium heat until lightly browned in places and some fat has rendered, about 8–10 minutes. Add the hen pieces and stir in the rendered fat without browning them. Add the remaining refrito and enough hot water to come about halfway up the meat. Cover and simmer gently, turning the pieces now and then, until both meats are tender and the thickest hen pieces reach 73.9°C on a food thermometer, about 45–60 minutes. Add hot water if needed to keep a little sauce in the pot. Stir in the cooked potatoes and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes; the filling should be moist, not soupy.

Assemble and tie the parcels Warm each banana-leaf piece briefly over a low flame or hot pan until flexible; wipe clean and trim away stiff ribs. Set one leaf on the work surface. Spread about one eighth of the masa into a thick oval, add one eighth of the meat-and-potato filling and two egg wedges, then cover with another spoonful of masa. Fold the leaf over the filling, tuck in the sides to make a tight parcel and tie securely with twine. Patch any tears with an extra leaf. Repeat to make eight tamales.

Simmer until hot through the centre Set a rack, spare banana leaves or a few folded leaf pieces in the bottom of a large lidded pot. Add about 3 litres water and 10 g salt; arrange the parcels snugly above the base. Cover and bring to a steady simmer, then cook for 90 minutes, topping up with boiling water if needed. Carefully open one parcel and check the centre with a clean food thermometer; it must reach at least 73.9°C. If it has not, retie the parcel and continue cooking, checking again after 10 minutes. Serve the tamales hot in their leaves, with patacones if desired. Discard the leaves and twine when eating. Keep cooked tamales hot at 60°C or above if holding them for service. Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours in shallow containers at 5°C or colder; reheat each portion until the centre reaches 73.9°C. Do not leave cooked rice-based food at room temperature for extended periods.