Tamales de pescado: Guapi Pacific Fish Tamales

Make the Pacific refrito Heat the achiote oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the tomato, long green onion, yellow onion, garlic, ají and optional bell pepper. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables soften and form a moist sauce, about 8–10 minutes. Add the chillangua, poleo, 4 g of the salt, cumin and black pepper; stir for one minute. Measure 360 ml of the finished refrito. Set aside 240 ml for the masa and 120 ml for the filling. Cool and refrigerate if making it ahead.

Prepare the potatoes, eggs and leaves Simmer the potatoes until a knife enters easily, about 12–15 minutes. Drain, cool and dice. Hard-boil the eggs until firm, cool them promptly, peel and roughly chop them. Rinse and wipe the banana leaves. Pass each leaf briefly over a low flame or warm pan until flexible, then cover with a clean damp towel so it does not dry out.

Cook and debone the fish Keep the fish refrigerated at 4°C or below until cooking. Check that it has been scaled and gutted, then cut it into large portions. Warm the coconut milk in a wide covered pot until it is gently simmering. Add the fish and cook gently for about 15 minutes, turning once, until opaque and easily flaked; check the thickest piece with a clean thermometer and make sure it reaches 63°C. Lift the fish out with a slotted spoon and reserve the coconut liquid. When cool enough to handle, flake the fish over a clean tray and inspect each piece carefully for pin bones. Discard the skin and any bones. Keep the cooked fish separate from raw-fish utensils and surfaces.

Cook the plantain masa Put the plantain chunks into the reserved coconut liquid and simmer until very tender, about 20 minutes. Lift them out and mash or grind while warm until smooth. Return the mash to the pot with 240 ml refrito, the chopped masa garlic and 4 g salt. Cook over low heat, stirring steadily, until the masa is thick, cohesive and spreadable, about 15–20 minutes. If it becomes stiff before it is smooth, loosen it with a spoonful of reserved coconut liquid. Keep the heat gentle so the coconut does not scorch.

Season the fish filling Warm the remaining 120 ml refrito in a wide pan. Add the cooked, boneless fish and turn it gently through the sauce; cook for 2–3 minutes, taking care not to break it into a paste. Fold in the diced potato, the chopped hard-boiled eggs and the remaining 2 g salt. The filling should be moist but not watery, so the parcels stay firm. If prepared ahead, chill it promptly and reheat until steaming before wrapping.

Fill and tie the parcels Lay one banana leaf on the work surface and cross a second piece over it if the leaf is narrow or split. Spread one tenth of the warm masa into a thick oval in the centre, leaving a wide border. Spoon one tenth of the fish, potato and egg filling onto the masa. Cover with a little masa. Fold the long sides inward, then fold the ends underneath to make a snug parcel. Tie securely with chumbes or kitchen twine. Repeat for ten tamales, keeping the parcels similar in size so they cook evenly.

Simmer, check and serve Bring 3 litres water and 15 g salt to a gentle boil in a large lidded pot. Set a rack or spare leaves in the base if available. Arrange the parcels seam-side up without crushing them; if using a rack, keep them above the water line, otherwise let them sit partly in the simmering water. Cover and cook for about 60 minutes, topping up with boiling water if needed. Open one of the largest parcels carefully. The centre should be steaming hot throughout and reach 74°C. If it is cooler, retie the leaf and continue cooking before checking again. Rest the parcels for 5 minutes and serve hot. Open them away from your face to avoid steam burns; the leaves are not eaten.