Tamales de guiso from Popayán: steamed beef and chicken tamales

Prepare the leaves and potato Rinse the plantain leaves and wipe them dry. Pass each briefly over a low flame or warm pan until flexible, then cover with a clean damp towel. Simmer the diced potatoes in lightly salted water for about 10 minutes, until nearly tender but still holding their shape. Drain and set aside.

Cook the beef and chicken Keep the raw meat and chicken refrigerated at 4°C or below until needed, and use a separate board for them. Put the beef, chicken, long green onion, yellow onion, garlic, cumin, achiote, black pepper and 500 ml water in a covered saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then cook gently for about 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the beef is tender and the chicken reaches 74°C in its thickest pieces. Keep the meat in small pieces; do not shred it finely.

Finish the guiso Heat the oil in a wide pan. Add the tomato and cook for about 8 minutes until soft and saucy. Add the cooked meat with its cooking liquid, the potatoes and 2 g salt. Simmer uncovered for 8–10 minutes, stirring gently, until the potato is tender and the guiso is moist but not runny. Check chicken pieces again for 74°C. Cool the filling until it is warm and easy to portion.

Mix the corn masa Stir the masa harina and 10 g salt together in a large bowl. Gradually mix in 900 ml warm water until a soft, pliable dough forms. Work in the lard and achiote until evenly distributed. Rest for 10 minutes. If the dough cracks at the edges, knead in a little more water; it should spread thinly without tearing.

Portion the masa and guiso Divide the masa into 10 equal portions and the guiso into 10 portions. Keep both covered while assembling so the dough does not dry and the filling stays warm. Set a steamer basket over simmering water; the water must stay below the basket.

Fill and tie the parcels Lay one plantain leaf flat and add a second piece beneath it if the leaf is narrow or torn. Press one masa portion into a thin oval in the centre, leaving a wide border. Spoon one guiso portion down the middle. Fold the masa over the filling, then wrap the leaf around it and fold the ends underneath. Tie snugly with plantain fibre or food-safe twine. Repeat to make 10 similar parcels.

Steam, check and serve Arrange the parcels seam-side up in the steamer basket without crushing them. Cover and steam for about 50 minutes, checking that the pot has not run dry. Carefully open the largest tamal and measure the centre with a clean thermometer; it must reach 74°C. If it is cooler, wrap it again and continue steaming before checking once more. Rest for 5 minutes, then serve hot. Open away from your face to avoid steam burns; discard the leaves.