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Situated amid the gentle folds of the Middle Atlas foothills, Fez unfolds like a living manuscript of Moroccan memory. Its two ancient quarters—Fes el-Bali and Fes Jdid—press close around the swath of the Fez River, where narrow watercourses once carried grain and clay from the hills into the heart of town. Emerging under Idrisid rule in the late eighth century, Fez began as twin settlements on either bank of the river. They grew beside one another in rivalry, shaped by waves of newcomers from Ifriqiya and al-Andalus, each bringing their own customs, languages and crafts.
By the early eleventh century, the Almoravid sultan Yusuf ibn Tashfin set aside the rivalry and joined the two halves into what remains today’s densely woven medina, Fes el-Bali. Under these pious rulers, the city acquired its reputation as a centre of learning: mosques and Quranic schools rose on every corner, and traders laden with silks and spices shaped its market life. When the Marinids seized power in the thirteenth century, Fez reclaimed the mantle of capital, and the city’s most celebrated monuments took form. The madrasas commissioned by Abu Inan and his predecessors—Al-Attarine, Bou Inania, Cherratine—enclose shaded courtyards and carved cedar galleries. Walls of zellij tilework shimmer in patterns whose geometry seems to pulse with deeper meaning.
Beyond these cloistered colleges, the Marinids raised the ramparts of Fes Jdid—“New Fez”—where the Royal Palace still stands behind massive gates polished to a burnished green. On the south side of this district, the mellah took shape: the walled Jewish quarter, with its synagogues and narrow lanes, reflecting the long presence of Fez’s Jewish community. Though today so few remain, the Al-Fassiyin and Ibn Danan synagogues speak to a time when Arabic, Berber and Hebrew mingled in daily speech.
The modern city extends far beyond the old walls. The Ville Nouvelle, a grid of broad avenues and Art Deco buildings laid out under the French protectorate, stretches westward onto the Saïss plain. Here, cafés line Avenue Hassan II; gardens offer shade to strollers; and the muted façades of colonial-era post offices and courthouses stand as markers of a different chapter in Fez’s story.
Climatic shifts have long shaped life in Fez. Winters bring cool rains—sometimes even frost—while summers press dry heat into the stone walls. Temperatures fluctuate between mild winter days of around 15 °C and mid-summer peaks near 35 °C. On rare occasions, the city has witnessed snow or recorded lows below freezing. Across centuries, the river’s branched channels have sustained gardens and hammams alike, their domes and vaults rising from the rooftops.
Today, more than 1.25 million residents call Fez home, speaking a local dialect of Moroccan Arabic—known as Fessi—that once carried the prestige of court and mosque. In tandem, Modern Standard Arabic and Tamazight claim official status, while French, a legacy of colonial rule, remains the language of law and higher learning. In the medina’s lanes, the calls of stallkeepers echo beside the rhythmic clipping of leather: the Chouara Tannery still handles hides in vats of dye much as it did nearly a thousand years ago.
Craft and commerce continue to define the city’s economy. Artisans shape brass trays, weave carpets and bind manuscripts, often in workshops that have operated for generations. Farther afield, the Saïss plains yield cereals, olives and grapes; markets in the modern city pulse with produce brought from the surrounding farmland. Tourism too sustains many livelihoods, as travelers seek the medina’s world-heritage landmarks: the Qarawiyyin University, founded in 857 and regarded as the oldest continuously operating degree institution; the cascading terraces of the Saffarin and Mokhfiya hammams; the centuries-old gates at Bab Mahrouk, Bab Guissa and Bab Ftouh.
In the rhythms of religious life, the city’s great zawiyas (shrines) still draw pilgrims. Each autumn, guilds join in procession for the Moussem of Moulay Idris II, bearing a richly embroidered keswa to drape over the founder’s tomb. Festivals take place throughout the year, from the World Sacred Music Festival in late spring—when concert stages rise beside medieval walls—to gatherings of Sufi ritual and the Festival of Amazigh Culture in midsummer. In recent years, runners have made their mark too, following a course through old lanes and open squares in the Fez Running Festival.
Yet beneath these proud traditions, Fez wrestles with the demands of modern life. Unemployment and uneven development test the city’s ability to sustain its historic core. Many riads stand restored as guesthouses, their courtyards revived with fountains and orange trees, while other homes wait for funds to conserve centuries-old woodwork and plaster moldings. The challenge lies in marrying heritage with opportunity—so that the same families who once labored in tanneries or madrasa courts might find new work in preservation and hospitality.
Fez endures because its streets carry more than foot traffic: they bear the weight of memory. A visitor turning a corner into a narrow alley may glimpse a carved portal opening onto a courtyard garden. Elsewhere, the call to prayer rises above pigeon-dotted roofs, offering a moment of quiet against the city’s relentless hum. Here, in the winding lanes of Fes el-Bali or beneath the avenue-trees of the Ville Nouvelle, one finds a city that has always been in motion—yet remains rooted in the lives of those who built it, one stone at a time.
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Bab Bou Jeloud, the “Blue Gate” of Fez, stands at the threshold of the medieval medina. It opens into a world preserved from centuries past, where the old city (Fes el-Bali) stretches out in a maze of narrow alleys and lively markets. Behind this gate lie the largest medieval city in the world, virtually car-free and filled with monuments of the Idrisid, Marinid, and Saadian dynasties. Visitors stepping through sense an authentic spirit, as mosaic fountains and artisans at work create a timeless quality. Fez’s old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its remarkably complete medieval layout and architecture.
Beyond its historic core, Fez today has over a million inhabitants, sustaining the city’s daily energy. Unlike the flashier cities of Casablanca or Marrakech, Fez retains a quieter, contemplative air in many quarters. The call to prayer from the Qarawiyyin Mosque marks the rhythm of life, and the scent of leather and mint tea drifts through narrow alleys. The city’s soul is also intellectual: Al-Qarawiyyin University, founded in 859 and rebuilt over the centuries, is often cited as the oldest continuously operating university in the world. Travelers often find Fez not a tourist showpiece but a living museum of Moroccan culture.
Morocco’s third-largest city, Fez is home to roughly 1.3 million residents. It’s divided into three distinct quarters: the ancient medina (Fes el-Bali), the adjacent palace quarter (Fes el-Jdid), and the 20th-century Ville Nouvelle. On the streets of Fez, people commonly speak Moroccan Arabic (Darija) as well as Amazigh (Berber); French and English are widely used in hotels, shops, and among younger Moroccans. The currency is the Moroccan dirham (MAD), and visitors generally find Fez affordable by Western standards. The climate is continental: summers are hot and dry, winters are cool and sometimes rainy. In essence, Fez’s character is deeply traditional, making it ideal for culture seekers and history enthusiasts.
“Fez” and “Fes” are two spellings for the same city. Officially the city is often written as Fès (with an accent) on Moroccan signage, reflecting French transliteration. English travelers typically use “Fez.” Regardless of spelling, it refers to the ancient imperial capital of Morocco. Don’t be confused by the English name “Fes” in some guidebooks – it’s the same place (the name derives from the Arabic al-Fās, meaning “fennel” or by some accounts “hidden”).
Travelers can think of Fez as essentially three parts. The oldest quarter, Fès el-Bali (Old Fez), is the vast medieval medina where cars are generally forbidden. It’s a dense web of markets, madrassas, and mosques, including the historic Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque/University and the famous Chouara tannery. Nearby is Fès el-Jedid (“New Fez”), a Marinid-era district founded in the 14th century; this area contains the royal palace precinct (Dar el-Makhzen), the old walled Jewish Mellah (now a charming neighborhood), and plazas like Place Lalla Yeddouna. East of these old sections lies the Ville Nouvelle (New City), built during the French protectorate with wide boulevards, modern shops and hotels. Many visitors prefer to stay in riads within el-Bali or el-Jedid for atmosphere, while Ville Nouvelle offers larger hotels and parking.
In 1981, UNESCO inscribed Fez’s historic medina as a World Heritage site. This designation covers the core old city (mainly Fès el-Bali and parts of Fès el-Jedid) with its mosques, madrasas, shops, and old mansions, recognizing it as one of the world’s most complete surviving medieval urban areas. The UNESCO status means strict rules now protect the traditional architecture: most streets in the medina remain narrow and low-rise, and any renovation must use local materials (cobblestones, cedar, natural plaster). For visitors, this means Fez’s center still feels remarkably authentic. Wandering through the souks and alleys feels like stepping into a living museum of Moroccan heritage.
Spring (March through May) is one of the most pleasant times to visit Fez. Daytime temperatures generally range from about 15–25°C (60–75°F), warm but not sweltering. The city’s orange and fig trees bloom, and the souks are lively but not overcrowded. By late spring Fez can get busy as tourists arrive for the mild weather and local events (for example, the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music often takes place in late May or early June).
Summer in Fez is very hot. Daytime highs often exceed 35°C (95°F) and can approach 40°C (104°F) during heat waves. Locals observe a late-morning pause (many return to their riads to rest), so many sights are more comfortable to see early or late in the day. Evenings bring some relief as temperatures drop into the mid-20s°C (mid-70s°F). If traveling in summer, book accommodations with air conditioning if possible, and stay hydrated; a handheld fan can be very helpful on the busiest souk streets. Note also that the World Sacred Music Festival typically falls in early summer; this draws crowds and fills riads.
Fall (September through November) mirrors spring’s mildness. Early autumn days are warm – around 25–30°C (77–86°F) in September – then gradually cool to about 15°C (59°F) by November. The harvest season brings fresh figs, olives and other produce to the markets. Fez tends to be quieter after the summer rush, so October is often considered a sweet-spot month for visiting. (However, note that October 6 is a national holiday – the King’s accession – when some sites may close or crowds may gather for celebrations.)
Winter (December through February) is cooler and wetter. Daytime highs hover in the mid-teens °C (around 60°F), with chilly nights that can approach freezing (especially in January/February). Although Fez itself rarely snows, nearby Atlas peaks often do, so mountain excursions for snow are possible. Winter rains come in short bursts, so a waterproof jacket is wise. Tourist numbers drop in winter (outside of holiday weeks like Christmas), which means lower hotel rates and uncrowded attractions. Many riads and hotels offer heating (fireplaces or electric radiators), but it’s wise to check, as some older riads only provide portable heaters.
Fez is known as one of Morocco’s spiritual cities, so Ramadan is observed strictly. During Ramadan (which follows the Islamic lunar calendar; for example in 2025 it’s roughly March 1–April 30), many daytime restaurants and cafes close or significantly reduce hours, and life shifts into the evening. Non-Muslim visitors should not eat, drink or smoke in public during fasting hours – having a salad or bottle of water in open view can be considered rude. On the plus side, nightfall brings communal feasts (Iftar) when locals break the fast with soup, bread and sweets. Visitors can dine at hotels or some cafes (which stay open) or even enjoy an invitation to an Iftar meal if a local friend is made. Sightseeing is still possible during Ramadan: major sites remain open (though often closing midday), and the Ramadan experience itself (quiet days, festive evenings) can be enriching.
Flying to Fez: The city’s airport (FES, also called Fez–Saïss) lies about 15 km south of the medina. Royal Air Maroc offers daily flights to Casablanca (with onward domestic connections), and several European budget carriers (EasyJet, Ryanair, Wizz Air, Vueling, etc.) also fly here. Seasonal charter airlines serve Fez in peak months (especially summer and festival times). Upon arrival, travelers can take the blue CTM airport shuttle bus to the city center (around 50 MAD, about $5) or a petit taxi for roughly 250–300 MAD (cabs seat up to three passengers). Taxis queue outside baggage claim – always insist on the meter or agree on a fixed rate before departing. The drive to the medina usually takes 30–40 minutes.
Trains to Fez: Fez-Ville station is a major stop on Morocco’s ONCF rail network. In 2018 the high-speed “Al Boraq” line reached Fez, linking it to Tangier, Rabat, and Casablanca. For example, a first-class train from Casablanca Voyageurs to Fez takes roughly 3½ hours (second class takes a bit longer and costs ~15% less). Other lines connect Fez directly to Rabat and Marrakech (with a transfer in Casablanca), and a local train links Fez to Meknes (30 minutes) and the Roman ruins of Volubilis. Tickets can be bought at the station or online (though the ONCF website can be glitchy). Trains are clean and air-conditioned, with assigned seating; snack bars on board sell refreshments. Booking a few days ahead in peak season is wise.
Bus travel: Several coach companies connect Fez with the rest of Morocco. The main operator is CTM (www.ctm.ma), which runs comfortable air-conditioned buses from Casablanca, Marrakech, Tangier, Chefchaouen and many other cities to Fez. Supratours (operated by Royal Air Maroc) covers similar routes, often timed to flight schedules. Fez’s main coach terminal is on Batha Road (Ville Nouvelle), with another station by Hassan II Avenue near the train station. Fares vary by distance (e.g. Casablanca–Fez ~120 MAD one-way, Marrakech–Fez ~180 MAD). Coaches generally run year-round, though night departures may be sparse. Tickets can be purchased at the station or online. Buses are usually reliable and more comfortable than grand taxis for long distances.
Driving to Fez: Morocco’s highways make Fez relatively easy to reach by car. A modern toll motorway (A2) links Casablanca (200 km south) to Fez in about 2.5–3 hours. Rabat (175 km west) is roughly 2 hours away via highway. From Tangier it’s about 300 km (around 3 hours) on the A2/A3 route, while Marrakech is farther (about 500 km, ~5–6 hours). Roads are generally in good condition, but watch for speed bumps (trapetes) at town entrances. Parking inside the medina (Fez el-Bali) is virtually impossible; visitors should park in Ville Nouvelle or near Bab Boujloud. Hotels in Ville Nouvelle often provide free parking. For those without cars, grand taxis (shared or private yellow sedans) run set routes from taxi hubs in Casablanca and Rabat, or can be hired privately (6 passengers share the fare) between Fez and surrounding towns.
The heart of Fez to stay in is the old medina (Fès el-Bali). Here, accommodation means riads and guesthouses carved into historic homes. Simple hostels and riads may cost $20–40 per night, while luxury restorations (often 4 or 5 stars) can exceed $150–200. A riad typically has an inward-facing courtyard with a fountain, and rooms open off that courtyard. Many riads feature rooftop terraces (with views over the medina) and can include amenities like a hammam or breakfast service. The upside is immediate access to souks and monuments; the downside is noisy goat calls or music at dawn, and cobblestone steps that can be tricky with luggage. In summer, air conditioning is common, but in winter not all riads have full heating beyond portable heaters or fireplaces.
Just north of Fès el-Bali is Fès el-Jedid (“New Fez”), a Marinid-era district built around the 14th-century royal palace. Accommodation here also consists mainly of riads and guesthouses, with pricing similar to the old medina. The vibe is slightly quieter than el-Bali, and you’re close to the Ville Nouvelle for dining or transport. Some riads in el-Jedid border the former Jewish Mellah, now an atmospheric labyrinth of narrow lanes and artisan shops. Staying in el-Jedid still feels like historic Fez, but you gain easier street access (a short walk or taxi) to the Ville Nouvelle amenities.
For travelers who prefer modern amenities, Fez’s Ville Nouvelle (“New City”) is a convenient base. Laid out by the French in the early 20th century, this district has wide boulevards, shops, and many hotels. You’ll find everything from international chains to comfortable mid-range inns. Hotel rooms are spacious and often include features like swimming pools, business centers and Western-style bathrooms. The Ville Nouvelle has ample parking and many restaurants geared to travelers. The downside is that you’re outside the medina: expect to take a taxi or walk (15–20 minutes) to enter Fez el-Bali. Taxis in Fez require using the meter; always negotiate a fair rate or confirm the meter is on.
The most memorable thing to do in Fez is wander its old medina. Fès el-Bali is the world’s largest car-free urban area, a maze of alleys lined with souks and ancient houses. Every turn reveals another workshop or fountain – you might exit a coppersmith’s lane into a leather tannery or stumble upon a 14th-century madrasa. It’s easy to get lost (and that’s part of the experience), but visitors often use smartphone maps (download them in advance, since GPS can be spotty in narrow lanes). Key entry points include Bab Bou Jeloud (the Blue Gate), Bab Semmarine (leading deeper into the spice and metal souks), and Bab Ftouh, each opening onto major market districts. As you explore, remember to dress modestly and watch for uneven cobblestones. If navigating seems daunting, consider hiring a licensed local guide for a few hours; otherwise, free roaming will still reward you with hidden fountains, flower stalls, and craftsmen at work.
No visit to Fez is complete without seeing the ancient tanneries. At Chouara Tannery, dozens of sunken pits are filled with vibrant dyes: white lime water, then red from poppy and blue from indigo. The high viewing terraces give a dizzying panorama of vats and busy workers. The pungent odor is part of the experience; locals commonly hand out mint leaves to mitigate the smell. Access is officially free, but merchants at the entrance may expect a tip or urge you to browse their leather shops. If you do not wish to buy, a polite 5–10 MAD tip and a quick exit are customary. Visiting in late afternoon (or early morning) can be more comfortable, with fewer crowds and gentle light. Wear sneakers on the stone steps, and beware of tile shards underfoot. Photography is fine (no flash needed). Seeing the tannery provides insight into a trade unchanged for centuries.
Within the medina are Fez’s most important heritage buildings. Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University stand at the city’s spiritual core: founded in 859 and expanded over time, it became the oldest continually operating university in the world. Non-Muslims may not enter the mosque’s prayer hall, but a small adjoining library (recently reopened as a cultural space) can be viewed for a modest fee. Nearby, Bou Inania Madrasa (built 1350s) is one of the few historic madrasas open to the public; its towering minaret and sculpted wooden minbar (pulpit) are highlights. Equally beautiful is the Medersa el-Attarine (1320s), with a turquoise-tiled courtyard and an intricately painted cedar ceiling. Modest entry tickets (around 50 MAD per site) allow you to step inside these historic courtyards for a glimpse of Marinid architecture at its finest.
Fez also has several museums that explore its crafts and history. The Dar Batha Museum (in a former 19th-century palace) presents traditional arts: colorful ceramics, carved woodwork, Zellij tiles and costumes in air-conditioned galleries. Nearby, the Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts (housed in a restored funduq/caravanserai) highlights the city’s woodworking heritage; its richly tiled fountain and rooftop café have one of the medina’s best views. For something different, head to Borj Nord, a 16th-century fortress on a hill north of the medina: it now houses an arms museum and offers sweeping panoramas of Fez. Entry fees for these sites range from about 20–70 MAD (roughly $2–7). Many visitors find these venues a cool respite and an education in Fez’s artisanal past.
Just outside Fès el-Bali is the old Jewish quarter, the Mellah. Once lined with shops, today only a few hundred residents remain. The main attraction is the restored Ibn Danan Synagogue (17th century), with its ornate wooden Torah ark and white marble floors; visitors usually need a guide or attendant (this is often free, though small donations are welcome). Nearby is the Jewish cemetery: climbing its steep rows of carved tombstones offers a unique view back toward the medina. The Mellah’s narrow lanes now host metalworkers and cafés; even its empty mansions hint at the community that thrived here. As a bonus, this area is a short walk from various mellah-themed museums or the Borj Bel-Ka\u0091an fortress. Remember, the Mellah is a residential neighborhood, so keep noise low and ask permission before entering any side building.
Fez cuisine (often simply called Fassi) is rich and aromatic. A signature dish is pastilla (bastilla): a layered pie made with pigeon or chicken, spiced meat, eggs and almonds, topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon. Tagines of lamb or chicken are ubiquitous – try versions with preserved lemon and olives, or with sweet ingredients like apricots and almonds. Tangia is a Fez specialty stew made in a clay urn: beef or lamb is slow-roasted for hours with garlic, preserved lemon and saffron. You’ll see clay urns for tangia stacked outside some riads (Thursdays are a traditional tangia day). Common everyday foods include couscous (often served Friday) and hearty harira soup. The city is also famed for sweet mint tea (Moroccan mint tea with a lot of sugar). Don’t miss local breads (khobz) and sweet pastries like chebakia (sesame cookies in honey). Many markets and cafés proudly display trays of dried fruits and nuts. Sampling a bit of each gives a taste of Morocco’s home cooking.
Within the medina, you’ll find eateries of every level. Dar Hatim, located near Bab Bou Jeloud, is a favorite among travelers for generous home-style Fassi cooking (no reservation needed). Café Clock (in Fès el-Jedid) serves creative dishes including its famous camel burger, and offers vegetarian tagines and cultural events. Le Tarbouche and Café Nejjarine have rooftop terraces with views. As you explore, look for handwritten menus listing tagines, couscous, kefta (spiced meatballs) and pastilla. Portions are often family-size, so consider sharing.
Street food is also plentiful. Small shops and stands offer grilled meats (spicy kefta or chicken skewers), savory pastels (fried pastries) and rich soups (harira or bsouda, a lamb stew). Pastry shops sell sfenj (Moroccan doughnuts) and chebakia (sesame cookies drenched in honey). These are usually safe to eat as they’re made fresh and served hot – just take care with raw salads and drink bottled water. Stopping for a cup of mint tea and a snack is a perfect way to rest during your medina wanderings.
Vegetarian travelers will find many options. Many tagines can be made with vegetables, lentils or eggs, and Cafés Clock and a few other cafes cater especially to meat-free diets. Salads of olives, carrots and beets are always available as well. Don’t hesitate to ask for a vegetable tagine or an extra plate of cooked greens (zalouk) – Moroccan cooks are used to accommodating.
The medina’s crafts are largely organized by trade. Near Bab Bou Jeloud you’ll find metalwork (copper trays, brass lamps) and ironmongers; deeper inside are textile stalls and fabric shops (silks, brocades, carpets). The leather souk (handbags, babouches, jackets) lies around the tanneries area. To find pottery and ceramics, try the Ain Nokbi quarter near the southern ramparts. Even without a guide, you can ask locals or use a pocket map app to make sense of the winding streets – just look for signs painted “Souk” with an icon or specialty. Each cluster of crafts has a slightly different aroma and color palette, so wander and note the sights and smells: metal squares, spice towers, and wooden chests are giveaway landmarks.
In short, buy only items you really like. High-quality souvenirs in Fez are not cheap but represent local heritage. If you spot a well-crafted item, consider bargaining (see below) to get a fair price.
Bargaining is expected in Moroccan markets: nothing you see will be sold at the “tag” price. Start by smiling and saying a low offer – often around half the seller’s first price. Negotiate firmly but politely, friendly smiles go a long way. If the seller refuses, begin to walk away; it’s common for them to call you back with a lower offer. Always check an item carefully and compare across multiple shops. A recommended tactic is to feign disinterest if the price is too high; sometimes offering a round number or showing you have limited cash will bring down the price. In the end, make sure both you and the seller feel satisfied (leaving a good tip to the negotiation itself). Avoid staged “deals” that sound too good to be true, and be wary of anyone who pressures you heavily. A genuine craftsman will let you examine his work and give you time to decide.
Many shops in Fez can arrange shipping for large or heavy items. International courier offices (DHL, FedEx) operate in the city, and Aramex has an office near the main bus station (Batha Road). If buying fragile goods, ask the shopkeeper to pack them securely and obtain a tracking number. Note: shipping ceramics or heavy lanterns can be expensive, so consider mailing only the most special pieces. For many travelers, it’s simpler to limit purchases to things that fit in luggage: leather goods, textiles, and spices pack easily.
The most famous day trip from Fez is Chefchaouen, the Blue City in the Rif Mountains. It’s about 200 km north (roughly a 3½–4 hour drive each way). Travelers often take a CTM bus (in the morning) or hire a private driver. Chefchaouen’s entire old town is painted in various shades of blue, creating a photographer’s paradise. Spend the day strolling its steep, picturesque alleys, visit the kasbah museum in the main square, and enjoy local goat cheese (the region’s specialty). Return to Fez by evening. Note: There are no train routes, so planning transport (bus or car) in advance is wise.
Meknes and Volubilis can be combined on a single excursion. Meknes (60 km west, ~1 hour drive) was another medieval capital; its top sights include the 18th-century Bab Mansour gate, the Mahkama du Pacha, and the old Imperial Stables. From Meknes it’s a short drive (10 km) to Volubilis, a UNESCO-listed Roman ruin with well-preserved mosaics and monuments (about a €2 entry fee). Many travelers hire a guide or take an organized tour covering both sites. Trains and buses do not go directly to Volubilis, so most go via Meknes. It’s possible to visit both Meknes and Volubilis in one day from Fez if you start early.
Just south of Fez lies the Middle Atlas region, offering a green contrast to the city. The mountain town of Ifrane (about 65 km south) is known for its Swiss-style architecture and is a popular ski resort in winter. A bit further on, Azrou is famous for its cedar forests and wild Barbary macaque monkeys. Roadside stops at cedar tree viewpoints often allow monkeys to climb onto cars for a photo opportunity. These towns make for pleasant hikes or picnic spots in any season. Day trips here can be done by rental car or by joining small-group tours. Even in summer, evenings can be cool, so pack a light sweater.
Fez is generally considered safe for travelers, but it pays to be aware of a few local scams. Avoid unsolicited “guides” in the medina – legitimate tour guides will display official ID. The tannery and spice-market scam is common: a young person offers free help, then demands payment. If approached, a firm “la, shukran” (no thanks) usually ends the offer. In petit taxis, always insist on using the meter or agree on a price before you get in; a short ride inside the city should be around 5–10 MAD. If a driver refuses the meter, politely get out and find another taxi.
Pickpockets are not widespread but can operate in crowded markets or buses. Keep your wallet in a front pocket or inside a zipped bag, and be cautious on any public transport. Do not flash large sums of cash or wear flashy jewelry. Trust your instincts: if a situation feels off, simply walk away.
Women traveling alone generally report Fez as safe, but it’s still wise to be modest and vigilant. Dress to blend in (covering shoulders and knees is best) and carry a scarf; a long skirt and T-shirt are fine. Avoid overly revealing outfits. If unwanted attention occurs (e.g. persistent catcalls or overly chatty touts), respond firmly and move to a busier area. Learning a few Arabic phrases (like saying “shukran, la” for “no, thank you”) can help deter harassment. At night, stick to well-lit streets or take a petit taxi rather than walking alone in deserted lanes. Always keep your belongings secure: pocket wallets inside a zipped purse, and use a money belt or inside jacket pocket if possible.
In case of emergency, dial 19 for police, 15 for ambulance/medical, or 177 for the tourist police (who may speak some English). Fez has hospitals and clinics for urgent care, but travelers should have insurance covering medical evacuation for serious cases. Pharmacies (look for green crosses) are plentiful in the medina and Ville Nouvelle and carry most over-the-counter medications. Pharmacists often understand English. Carry copies of your passport and insurance details at all times.
Fez’s historic center is essentially pedestrian-only. The narrow lanes of Fès el-Bali have no cars or buses; only small carts and motorbikes for local deliveries. The best way to get around the medina is on foot – good walking shoes are recommended. A few streets at the edges allow petit taxis to drive in; otherwise, plan to walk between souks and sights. The steep, uneven paths mean some places may not be wheelchair-friendly. For longer walks, take occasional breaks at cafes or squares to rest. A simple paper map or offline navigation app can help with orientation (landmarks like the Blue Gate or Nejjarine Fountain are good reference points).
Taxis in Fez come in two varieties: petit taxis (small red sedans, up to 3 passengers) and grand taxis (shared yellow sedans, usually 6-seaters). Petit taxis operate within the city (and recently have digital meters starting around 5–6 MAD by day). A short 5-minute ride is typically 6–10 MAD; longer trips may be 15–20 MAD. Always ask the driver to use the meter. If he says it’s broken, it’s safer to take another taxi or agree on a fixed fare upfront (for example, 20 MAD for a ride that normally costs about 15). Grand taxis leave when full or can be hired privately by the seat. Inside Fez only petit taxis can operate, so save grand taxis for trips out of town (they run set routes to towns like Meknes or Azrou, charging about 10–15 MAD per seat). Drivers rarely speak English, so knowing key Arabic or French phrases helps.
Typical Daily Budget: Budget backpackers can manage on about $30–50 USD per day, mid-range travelers around $80–120, and luxury travelers $200+ per day.
Saving Tips: Travel off-season for lower lodging rates. Share taxis with other travelers. Eat tagines at lunchtime (they can be half-priced), and buy street food from busy stalls. Many of Fez’s charms – wandering the souks, strolling gardens – are free. ATM machines (Visa/MasterCard) are available in Ville Nouvelle; always have some cash as many cafes and small shops do not take cards.
Fez is more conservative than Morocco’s beach resorts. Women should cover knees and shoulders; men should avoid tank tops. In practice, a sundress or loose pants with a scarf for women, and lightweight trousers or long shorts for men, work well. A light shawl or scarf can be handy (for example, to cover shoulders when entering a mosque or step on cool evening). Avoid beachwear in public. In any case, always follow local customs and dress neutrally to show respect.
Tipping is customary but modest. In sit-down restaurants, 10% of the bill is a polite gesture if service was good (especially if no service charge is added). For small services, round up to the nearest 5 or 10 MAD. For example, if a taxi ride costs 15 MAD, give 20. If a porter carries your bags, 5–10 MAD per bag is appreciated. Housekeeping staff at hotels or riads can get a 10 MAD per night tip. Always tip with the same currency used in the service (MAD). Tipping is a way to show gratitude for good service.
Learning a few words goes a long way. “Salam aleikum” (sa-LAM ah-LAY-koom) means “peace be upon you” (hello); the response is “Wa aleikum salam” (wah ah-LAY-koom sa-LAM). “Shukran” (shook-RAHN) means “thank you,” and “la shukran” means “no, thank you.” Many Moroccans also speak French: “bonjour/bonsoir” (hello) and “monsieur/madame” (sir/ma’am) show politeness. In shops, simple Arabic like “km miʼa?” (kem mee-YAH, “how much?”) or the French “combien ça coûte?” can be helpful. Even saying “la” (no) firmly can stop persistent vendors. Smiling and attempting the local greeting often earns an appreciative response.
To find the right lodging, use a mix of platforms: Booking.com and Airbnb list many riads and hotels in Fez. When choosing a riad, check its exact location on a map, since medina streets are confusing. A riad near Bab Boujloud or Place Batha means easier access to major sites, whereas one tucked deep inside the medina offers more privacy (but longer walks). Most riads come with breakfast – a great value – but confirm if it’s included. Free cancellation is common on booking sites; book early (especially for May–June and September–October) to lock in a good property. Riad rates vary by season: they peak in spring/early summer and drop in winter. Outside the medina, Ville Nouvelle hotels often charge less and have amenities like pools and parking, so compare prices. Finally, reading recent guest reviews can warn you of noisy bars, weak Wi-Fi, or lack of heating.
Most Western nationals (EU, US, Canada, Australia, etc.) can visit Morocco without a visa for up to 90 days. Ensure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond your entry date. Morocco may require health declarations or entry forms, so check for any updates (for example, requirements can change after global events). Upon arrival, immigration is usually fast. Tipping a 10 MAD note to the immigration officer is not required, but some visitors do it politely (especially if they carry heavy luggage).
Travel insurance is strongly recommended. It should cover health care (even routine doctor visits), evacuation, trip cancellation, and theft/loss of belongings. Moroccan hospitals in big cities can treat common ailments, but serious accidents may require evacuation by air. Keep both digital and printed copies of your insurance policy and emergency contact numbers. Carry your passport and insurance card separately.
Staying connected is easy. Free Wi-Fi is common in hotels and cafes, but speeds vary. For mobile data, buying a local SIM card (Inwi or Orange) at the airport or in the city is inexpensive (about $10–$15 for 5–10 GB). Registering a SIM requires showing your passport. An alternative is an eSIM – just purchase online in advance – which works well in Fez. 4G coverage is generally good in the city. If you need calls, note that pickup reliability varies; WhatsApp calls work fine over data.
Fez’s altitude (~200 m) and climate pose no special health risks. Standard travel vaccines (tetanus, hepatitis A, typhoid) are recommended. Drink bottled water (even for brushing teeth) as a precaution, and use bottled or treated water for ice and mixing drinks. Carry hand sanitizer; street-food are pleasant but street vendors may not always have running water. Pack any personal medications you need (diarrhea tablets, motion sickness medicine, etc.). Pharmacies (look for a green neon cross) are everywhere and typically well-stocked. Pharmacists often speak French or English and can advise on remedies. Sun protection (sunscreen, hat) is important even on cloudy days. In winter, a light rain jacket is useful. Fez is generally clean, but street pollution (from diesel engines) exists; a scarf or mask can help if you’re sensitive.
On a first day, begin at Bab Boujeloud and walk straight into the medina. Visit Bou Inania Madrasa (early to avoid crowds), then see the Nejjarine Museum and its rooftop view. Stop for lunch at a local spot – try a vegetable tagine or the famous pastilla. In the afternoon, head to the tanneries viewpoint and then wander through more souks (spice market, Souk el-Attarine). As dusk falls, make your way to the Bou Jeloud gardens (or the Borj Sud fort for sunset). Evening: enjoy a multi-course dinner in a rooftop riad, sampling Fassi dishes and mint tea under the lantern-lit sky.
Use Day 1 as above. On Day 2, start with the Qarawiyyin quarter: admire Al-Qarawiyyin (from outside) and the Medersa el-Attarine. Then explore the Royal Palace area (just outside the public medina) and the Jewish Mellah (including the Ibn Danan Synagogue). Midday, have lunch at a café in the Ville Nouvelle or try local street food in the Mellah. In afternoon, visit the Dar Batha Museum or take a cooking class in a riad kitchen. End the day on a high note: find a rooftop terrace in Place Batha or a modern jazz cafe for dinner.
With a third day, you can venture outside the city. A popular option is a day trip to Chefchaouen (blue medina) via car or bus, returning after nightfall. Or split Meknes and Volubilis: spend the morning exploring Meknes’s gates and palaces, then head out to the Roman ruins of Volubilis (bring water and wear sun protection). Alternatively, use a free day to further explore Fez itself: visit the Borj Nord fortress in the morning, or relax with a hammam in a traditional bathhouse followed by shopping. Each extra day lets you balance sightseeing with lingering in local cafes, which is one of Fez’s charms.
Fez hosts a few major cultural events each year. One of the largest is the Fes Festival of World Sacred Music (15th–23rd June 2025). This week-long festival features concerts by religious and world-music artists in beautiful venues around the city – from historic gardens to palace courtyards. Most performances are free (ticketed by event) and they draw large crowds, so book accommodations early if you plan to attend. Another event is the Fes Festival of Sufi Culture (typically in October), focusing on devotional music and Sufi dances. Outside festivals, Ramadan and the two Eids (Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha) bring special nightly events (like fireworks and feasts). If your trip coincides, research local schedules: some smaller music nights or arts festivals pop up in summer. In any case, life during festivals is more crowded but also more joyous.
Fez is immensely photogenic, but it rewards patience and planning. For panoramic shots, climb to high points: the rooftop of the Nejjarine Museum or a café next door gives sweeping views over the medina’s red-tiled roofs. The Borj Nord fortress also offers a broad panorama of the entire city. Bab Boujeloud (Blue Gate) itself is best photographed either at sunrise or after dark when it’s illuminated. In the medina, narrow lanes often catch only brief sunlight: late afternoon light can bathe the walls in a warm glow, but be ready for deep shadows. Golden hour (just after sunrise or before sunset) is ideal for colors; midday sun is harsh but highlights the bright dyes in the tanneries.
Always ask permission before photographing people, especially women and elders; many will smile or politely decline. Notice where locals leave shoes outside their door – that usually marks a private home or shop. Do not bring a tripod through busy souks (one or two people can be impeded). Bring a dust cover or UV filter for your lens, as Fez’s sandy winds can leave spots. On rooftops or in quiet streets you can try longer exposures (tripods allowed outside the medina), but keep an eye on your gear. When photographing in restaurants or markets, a polite “Bismillah” (in the name of God) before aiming your camera often earns a friendly grin.
In short, scout a few viewpoints in advance, travel light (with a small camera bag), and respect local privacy. This way you’ll capture Fez’s vibrant colors – the blue gate, the spices, the zellij tiles – and its timeless scenes of daily life, all while leaving positive memories.
Fez offers a very different experience than Morocco’s more famous cities. Compared to Marrakech, Fez feels quieter and more traditional: it has no new resorts or desert campgrounds, but it does have a denser old quarter rich in crafts and history. While Marrakech is built around the lively Jemaa el-Fna square, Fez invites getting lost in its centuries-old medina with a scholarly, old-world air. Casablanca, on the other hand, is Morocco’s commercial capital: it has shiny skyscrapers and an Atlantic corniche, but far fewer historic sights. If you want big-city cafes and nightlife, Casablanca or Marrakech may suit better; if you crave history and culture, Fez stands apart.
Fez vs Chefchaouen: Chefchaouen (about 4 hours north) is famous solely for its blue-washed medina and mountain scenery. It’s relaxed and picturesque but has no medina walls or centuries-old monuments. Travelers usually go to Chefchaouen for the photography and the chilled atmosphere. Fez, by contrast, is a full-sized city with imperial heritage. Other imperial cities: Meknes (1 hour west) is smaller and simpler; Rabat (the capital) has oceanfront royal sites; Tangier (north) is a cosmopolitan port. In summary, Fez is best for travelers who want immersive history and traditional crafts – a lifetime’s worth of culture in a single city – something the others can’t replicate.
Before you leave, here are a few final reminders. Don’t underestimate the medina: give yourself time to wander without a strict plan. Download an offline map of Fez (or a navigation app) before arrival. Carry small bills (5–20 MAD notes) and coins; keep a couple of dirhams on you for sudden needs (bathroom tip, unexpected taxi). Beware of scammers (fake guides offering sudden deals, or merchants trying to overcharge for tea); if something feels off, a firm “la, shukran” (no thanks) usually ends the encounter. Always clarify prices upfront for souvenirs, taxis and hotel extras. Respect local norms in dress and behavior – think of this as a way of thanking your hosts.
Fez is full of hidden corners: try to visit a small museum, or have tea on a quiet rooftop terrace. If you loved a rug or lamp, don’t hesitate to return to the shop and ask for a better price. Pack lightly: you will collect souvenirs! Above all, consider Fez a place to pause and explore slowly, rather than a quick tourist stop. Take your time in the alleys, ask about the history of that mosque or brass bowl, and let the city’s timeless rhythm set your pace. With these tips, you’ll leave Fez with more than souvenirs – you’ll carry a piece of its spirit with you.
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