Tamal bogotano

Prepare the leaves and filling station Wipe both sides of the banana leaves with a clean damp cloth. Pass each leaf briefly over a low flame or warm it in a dry pan until it becomes flexible and glossy; do not char it. Cut 8 broad rectangles and 8 slightly smaller rectangles for reinforcing the centers. Set them aside under a clean towel. Keep the raw chicken and pork chilled until you are ready to cook them.

Simmer the pork and chicken Put the pork shoulder in a saucepan with 700 ml of the broth and 6 g of salt. Bring it to a gentle simmer, cover partly and cook for 35–45 minutes, until tender. Add the chicken thighs and simmer for another 18–22 minutes. Check the thickest chicken piece with a food thermometer; it must reach 74 °C. The pork should be tender and at least 63 °C, followed by a 3-minute rest. Lift out the meat and reserve the broth. Shred the chicken and cut the pork into bite-size pieces.

Cook the hogao and vegetables Warm 30 ml of oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the tomatoes, scallions and garlic; cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring often, until soft and glossy. Stir in the cumin and black pepper. Add the diced potatoes, carrot, peas and 150 ml of reserved broth. Cover and cook for 12–15 minutes, until the vegetables are just tender but still hold their shape. Fold in the chickpeas, sliced longaniza, chicken and pork. Remove from the heat.

Mix the masa Mix the reserved 6 g fine salt into the masa. Whisk the corn flour and 80 g of pork lard in a large bowl. Add 900 ml of warm reserved broth gradually, stirring as you pour, until the masa is smooth, thick and spreadable. It should hold a mound on a spoon without crumbling. Add the remaining broth a little at a time only if needed; the amount absorbed varies by flour. Rest the masa for 10 minutes, then stir again. The ingredient allocation uses 2 L broth total across the meat and masa; keep any unneeded liquid for the steaming pot.

Fill and tie the parcels Lay one large leaf rectangle on the counter and place a smaller one across its center. Spoon about one-eighth of the masa onto the center and spread it into a thick oval. Add one-eighth of the meat-and-vegetable mixture, keeping a little edge clear. Cover with a smaller spoonful of masa. Fold the long sides over the filling, then fold the ends underneath to make a snug packet. Tie firmly with twine. Repeat to make 8 parcels. If a leaf tears, wrap the parcel in another softened piece before tying.

Steam until set and safe Set a rack or trivet in the large pot and add boiling water to just below it. Arrange the parcels seam-side up without packing them tightly. Cover and steam over a steady medium heat for about 90–110 minutes. Check the water every 25–30 minutes and add boiling water as needed; do not let the pot boil dry. Test the center of one tamal by carefully opening a small section and inserting the thermometer into the masa and filling. The center must reach at least 74 °C. If it has not, rewrap and continue steaming, checking again after 10 minutes.

Rest and serve Lift the tamales out with tongs and rest them for 10 minutes so the masa firms. Place each parcel on a plate and let diners open the leaves at the table. Serve hot with Colombian chocolate, coffee or broth. The banana leaves are for cooking and presentation; do not eat them.