Cayeye

Prepare the green guineos Peel the firm green guineos and cut them into large, even chunks so they cook at the same rate. If the peel is stubborn, trim the ends and score it lengthwise before removing it. Wash your hands and knife after handling the produce.

Boil until fully tender Put the guineo pieces in a large saucepan and cover with the 2.5 litres of water. Add half the salt and bring to a boil. Reduce to a steady simmer and cook for about 20–25 minutes, depending on size and ripeness, until a fork passes through the thickest pieces without resistance.

Drain and reserve cooking water Set a heatproof cup beside the sink and reserve some of the cooking water before draining the guineos. Drain thoroughly, then return them to the warm pot. The starchy water helps loosen the mash without making it watery, so add only a small splash at a time.

Mash while hot Mash the guineos until mostly smooth, leaving a little texture if you like. Add a splash of reserved cooking water only if the mixture feels dry or stiff. Keep the pot over very low heat or return it briefly to the warm burner so the mash stays hot while you prepare the hogao.

Cook the hogao Melt 30 g of the butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add the tomato and scallions and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and juicy. Avoid browning the vegetables; the hogao should be tender and moist rather than fried dry.

Season and combine Stir the hogao into the hot mashed guineo. Melt the remaining 30 g butter and fold it through for a creamy finish. Taste before adding the remaining salt: optional costeño cheese can bring substantial saltiness. Add the rest of the salt gradually only if the base tastes flat.

Serve warm with toppings Spoon the cayeye into warm bowls. Offer grated costeño cheese and suero costeño separately so everyone can add them to taste. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours; reheat until steaming throughout and at least 73.9°C.