Tapao de pescado (Colombian Pacific fish cooked under cover)

Keep the fish cold Pat the fish dry, check for any remaining pin bones and place the portions in a covered container in the refrigerator at or below 4°C. Keep them separate from ready-to-eat ingredients and use a clean board and knife for the vegetables. Do not leave the fish in lime juice at room temperature; citrus seasons the finished dish but does not make raw fish safe.

Make the refrito Heat the oil in a heavy 5–6 L pot over medium-low heat. Add the yellow onion, long green onion, bell pepper and 4 g of the salt. Cook for about 6 minutes, stirring, until soft and glossy. Add the tomato and garlic and cook for 5 minutes more, until the tomato breaks down into a thick, fragrant base. Stir in the black pepper and cumin.

Prepare the covered cooking liquid Pour in the coconut milk and hot water or unsalted stock. Add the green plantain and yuca, then stir once to coat the pieces in the refrito. Bring just to a simmer. The liquid should sit below the top of the vegetables; this is a covered steam-cooking dish, not a soup.

Soften the plantain and yuca Cover the pot tightly and cook over low heat for about 20 minutes. If using a banana leaf, place the clean leaf over the ingredients before fitting the lid; keep it away from any open flame. Check the roots with a small knife: the outside should be softening, while the thickest yuca pieces may still need more time. Add a splash of hot water only if the pot is nearly dry.

Add and steam the fish Take the fish from the refrigerator and arrange the portions over the vegetables in one layer. Sprinkle the remaining 4 g salt across the fish. Spoon a little cooking liquid over each piece, cover again and cook gently for 8–12 minutes, depending on thickness. Avoid vigorous boiling, which can break up the fish and make the roots fall apart.

Check doneness and finish with herbs Check the thickest fish portion with an instant-read thermometer; it must reach 63°C for at least 15 seconds. The fish should be opaque and separate into moist flakes, while the yuca and plantain should be tender when pierced. Fold the chillangua and cilantro into the cooking liquid around the fish, then turn off the heat. Add a little hot water if needed to loosen the sauce, but keep it concentrated rather than soupy.

Serve hot and store leftovers safely Let the covered pot stand off the heat for 2 minutes, then serve the fish with plantain, yuca and spoonfuls of the aromatic liquid. Add lime at the table. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours at or below 4°C; use within 2 days and reheat once to 74°C.