Pusandao de pescado (Tumaco-style Colombian Pacific fish stew)

Keep the fish cold Pat the fish dry, check for any pin bones and refrigerate the portions in a covered container at or below 4°C. Keep them separate from ready-to-eat food and use a clean board and knife for the vegetables. Do not leave the fish in lime juice at room temperature; citrus adds flavor but does not make raw fish safe.

Make the refrito Heat the oil in a heavy 5–6 L pot over medium-low heat. Add the yellow onion, long green onion, bell pepper and 4 g of the salt. Cook for about 6 minutes, stirring, until the vegetables are soft and glossy. Add the tomato and garlic and cook for 5 minutes more, until the tomato breaks down into a thick, fragrant base. Stir in the black pepper and cumin.

Build the light coconut broth Whisk 250 ml of the coconut milk with the 1000 ml water or unsalted fish stock. This diluted mixture approximates the lighter coconut-water milk used to cook the roots. Pour it into the pot with the refrito. Add the potatoes, green plantain and yuca. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover and cook for 25–30 minutes, until the roots are nearly tender. Keep the broth at a steady low simmer rather than a hard boil.

Add the fish and thick coconut milk Arrange the fish portions over the roots without stirring them into smaller pieces. Pour in the remaining 250 ml coconut milk and sprinkle the remaining 4 g salt over the fish and broth. Cover the pot and simmer gently for 12–15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the portions. If the roots need more time, lift the fish out to a clean plate once it is cooked, then continue simmering the vegetables before returning the fish briefly to warm through.

Check the fish temperature Insert an instant-read thermometer into the center of the thickest portion without touching the pot. The fish must reach 63°C for at least 15 seconds. It should be opaque and separate into moist flakes, while the potatoes, plantain and yuca should be tender when pierced. If the fish needs more time, cover and continue cooking in short intervals, checking again so it does not overcook.

Finish with the Pacific herbs Scatter the chillangua, cilantro and optional poleo over the stew. Gently spoon some broth over the fish, taking care not to break the portions. Taste the broth and add only as much of the remaining salt as needed; the listed amount is 8 g in total. Turn off the heat and leave the pot covered for 2 minutes.

Serve and store leftovers safely Spoon the broth, potatoes, plantain and yuca into deep bowls, then place one fish portion in each. Add lime at the table. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours at or below 4°C; use within 2 days and reheat once to 74°C. When reheating the stew, warm it gently and handle the fish with a broad spoon so it remains in pieces.