Bocachico al Cabrito: Colombian Stuffed Grilled Fish

Prepare the grill and leaves Set up a medium charcoal fire with a cooler area for indirect cooking; on a gas grill, heat one side and leave the other unlit. Clean the grate. Rinse and dry the leaves, then briefly warm each over low heat until supple without scorching. Keep the raw fish refrigerated while you prepare the filling.

Season the fish Pat the scaled and gutted fish dry. Check each cavity for remaining organs or loose scales, and confirm the fish is split along the belly without separating the sides. Rub inside and out with the lime juice, 4 g salt and pepper. Place on a clean tray and refrigerate while the vegetables cook.

Cook the filling Heat 15 ml oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add the long onion, yellow onion and sweet ají; cook for 3–4 minutes until fragrant and just softened. Stir in the garlic for 30 seconds. Add tomato and 2 g salt; cook for 2–3 minutes, until softened but still holding its shape. Remove from the heat, stir in 10 ml lime juice and cool until warm.

Fill and tie Divide the vegetables between the fish cavities and spread in an even layer. Bring each fish closed around its filling and tie at several points with plantain fibre or food-safe cotton twine. The ties should hold the fish together without cutting into it. If a fish does not close neatly, keep it open and wrap it securely in leaves instead.

Wrap the parcels Lay a large leaf flat and place a fish in the centre. Fold the leaf over the fish, then fold in the sides to make a snug parcel. Overlap a second leaf if the first is torn or too small. Brush the outside with the remaining 15 ml oil and tie so the parcel stays closed when turned. Repeat with the second fish.

Grill gently Place the parcels over the cooler grill area and cover. Cook for about 15–20 minutes, then turn each parcel with tongs. Grill for another 15–20 minutes. Keep the fire moderate; move parcels farther from the coals if leaves blacken rapidly or flames flare. Timing varies with fish thickness, grill heat and wind.

Check, rest and serve Open one parcel carefully, directing steam away from your face. Insert a clean instant-read thermometer into the thickest flesh near the spine without touching bone; each fish must reach 63°C. The flesh should be opaque and separate easily with a fork. If needed, close the leaf and continue grilling, then check the other fish. Rest for 5 minutes, remove the leaves and serve hot, watching for fine bones.