Mute santandereano — Colombian beef, mote and chickpea stew

Prepare the chickpeas and work area If starting with dried chickpeas, soak 250 g in 1.5 litres cold water for 8–12 hours. Drain, cover with 2 litres fresh water and simmer until tender but still holding their shape, about 60–90 minutes; drain and measure 600 g. Discard both waters. This can be done a day ahead. Alternatively, use 600 g no-salt-added cooked chickpeas, drained and rinsed. Keep raw meats and their utensils away from vegetables and cooked foods. Do not rinse raw meat; wash hands and clean and sanitize any surfaces that contact raw meat.

Cook the beef foot until gelatinous Put the cleaned beef foot in a pressure cooker with 1.2 litres of the measured water. Cook at high pressure for about 30–40 minutes, following the cooker manufacturer's directions for fill level and release. Allow pressure to release as the manual directs. The foot should be very tender and gelatinous; if it is not, cook in another short interval. Alternatively, cover and simmer it in a separate pot for about 2½–3½ hours. Strain and reserve the cooking liquid. Once cool enough to handle, remove loose bones and keep the edible pieces warm.

Simmer the ribs and pork In the large stockpot, combine the ribs and pork shoulder with 2.5 litres water. Bring to a boil, skim the foam during the first 10 minutes, then lower the heat to a steady gentle simmer. Cover and cook until the pork is fork-tender, about 60–75 minutes. Use clean utensils for cooked meat. Check a thick piece with a clean thermometer; whole beef and pork cuts must reach at least 63°C/145°F and rest for three minutes. This longer simmer will carry the meat further until tender.

Cook the tripe separately While the rib broth simmers, place the pre-cleaned tripe in the pressure cooker with 1 litre water. Cook at high pressure for about 35–45 minutes, then release pressure according to the manual and check that the strips are tender. If using a stovetop, cover and simmer for about 1½–2 hours. Discard its cooking liquid and keep the tender tripe. If you have only one pressure cooker, cook the foot and tripe in separate batches and keep the cooked foot covered while the tripe cooks.

Build the mote and chickpea base Remove any remaining surface foam from the rib-and-pork broth, but keep its cooking fat in the pot. Add enough reserved beef-foot liquid to make about 3 litres of combined broth; add hot water if necessary. Stir in the cooked chickpeas and both types of rinsed mote. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 15–20 minutes. The kernels should be tender and the broth should start to look cloudy and lightly thickened.

Add the vegetables and pasta in stages Add the potatoes and green beans with about half the measured salt, cumin and black pepper. Simmer for 15 minutes. Add the ahuyama and eggplant and cook for another 10–12 minutes, until the potatoes are nearly tender and the squash edges begin to soften. Stir in the shell pasta and simmer for the time on its packet, usually 8–10 minutes. Stir along the base of the pot. If the soup becomes pasty before the vegetables and pasta are ready, add reserved hot broth or water a little at a time.

Finish with hogao, meats and herbs While the vegetables cook, warm the oil in a small pan over medium-low heat. Add the tomatoes and both onions and cook, stirring now and then, until soft, glossy and jammy, about 12–15 minutes. Stir this hogao into the soup. Add the cooked tripe, ribs, pork and edible beef-foot pieces. Simmer gently for five minutes; stir in the guacas and parsley near the end. Taste and add the remaining salt gradually. The soup should be thick but ladleable, with visible corn kernels and soft, intact vegetable pieces. Let it stand off the heat for 10 minutes before serving.