Gamitana Muguiada from the Colombian Amazon

Season the fish Keep the fish at or below 4°C until you are ready to season it. Ask the fish seller to scale, gut and butterfly it. If you prepare it yourself, use clean equipment, remove the gills and dry the fish well. Mix the scallion, garlic, salt and pepper; rub the mixture over both sides and into the opened fish. Refrigerate while the grill heats.

Set up the smoker Set a covered charcoal grill or smoker for indirect heat. Put a drip tray below a stable rack so the fish stays clear of direct flame. Light the charcoal fully and let it settle into a steady moderate heat. Use outdoor equipment only; never burn painted, treated or moldy wood.

Smoke-roast until safely cooked Put clean banana-leaf pieces on the hot coals to make smoke. Set the fish skin-side down on the rack, roughly 70–80 cm from the heat where the equipment permits. In a regular covered grill, use the highest indirect rack and keep the fire low enough to smoke rather than scorch. Cover and cook, turning only if needed for even exposure. Begin checking before the traditional two-hour mark; smoke-roast until the thickest flesh reaches 63°C and flakes easily. Time varies with the fish and fire.

Fry the patacones While the fish cooks, cut each plantain crosswise into thick pieces. Shallow-fry in hot oil for 4–6 minutes per side, until softened but not deeply browned. Drain, flatten each piece between parchment to about 1 cm, then fry again until crisp and golden. Drain well.

Check and serve Use clean tongs to move the fish. Check the thickest flesh in more than one place without touching bone. If a reading is below 63°C, return the fish to the heat and check again. Rest briefly, then serve with patacones and lime. Watch for pin bones as you eat.

Store leftovers safely Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours, keeping them at or below 4°C. Use within 3–4 days and reheat throughout to 74°C. This home-smoked fish is perishable; do not store it at room temperature or treat it as preserved fish.