Gallina enjalmada: crisp Caldas chicken with arracacha sango

Marinate the chicken overnight Toss the chilled thighs with the scallion greens, 3 g of the salt and the black pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Keep the chicken in a leakproof dish on the lowest refrigerator shelf, away from ready-to-eat food.

Poach the thighs and check their temperature Put the carrot, celery, bay leaf, optional avocado leaf, cilantro with root, garlic, peppercorns, remaining 2 g salt and water in a saucepan. Bring to a gentle simmer. Add the chicken and poach gently until the thickest part of each thigh reaches 74°C on a food thermometer, about 20–30 minutes depending on size. Lift out the thighs, discard the cooked scallion pieces and pat the meat dry. Strain and reserve 120 ml broth for adjusting the enjalma; cool any extra broth promptly.

Mix the enjalma Combine the crumbled bread, breadcrumbs, sweet wine, brandy, chilled pork fat, beaten whole egg, 1.5 g salt, sugar, lemon juice and a few grinds of black pepper. Knead until the mixture holds together and releases from your hands. If it crumbles, add reserved broth a teaspoon at a time; if loose, work in a little more breadcrumb. The measured whole egg is the household binder choice for the source’s inconsistent yolk/white directions.

Wrap each thigh Heat the oven to 220°C. Divide the enjalma into four pieces. Between sheets of parchment, press or roll each piece into a thin oval large enough to cover a thigh. Set a cooked thigh in the center and wrap the coating around it, pressing the seam closed. Wrap each portion with a piece of chilled pork caul and place seam-side down on a rack over a rimmed tray. Use commercially cleaned caul; do not try to clean raw offal at home.

Bake until browned and crisp Bake for about 20–30 minutes, turning the tray if the oven browns unevenly. The caul will render fat as the enjalma becomes crisp and golden. If the tray collects excessive hot fat, carefully remove it from the oven and spoon some into a heat-safe vessel. Check the center of each thigh with a clean thermometer; every portion must remain at or above 74°C. Rest briefly on a clean plate.

Make the sango de arracacha While the chicken bakes, cover the arracacha with fresh water, add 3 g salt and simmer until tender, about 20–25 minutes. Drain. Melt the butter in a saucepan; cook the garlic briefly, add onion until translucent, then add tomato. Stir in cumin, vinegar and salt to taste. Fold the hogao into the arracacha and mash roughly, leaving some small pieces. Beat the pasteurized egg white, stir it into the hot sango over low heat and continue stirring until the mixture reaches 74°C. Keep warm.

Prepare the cidra salad and plate Wash the vegetables before cutting. Toss the julienned cidra and red onion with half the salt and sugar; cover and chill for 15 minutes, then drain excess liquid. Add the carrot, red pepper, chulupa pulp, cilantro and remaining salt and sugar. Toss and chill until serving. Plate one crisp chicken portion with a scoop of sango and a portion of cidra salad.

Cool and store leftovers safely Refrigerate leftovers in shallow covered containers within 2 hours, or within 1 hour when the room is above 32°C. Use within 3–4 days and reheat the chicken and sango throughout to 74°C. Keep the salad chilled and use it promptly; do not leave it at room temperature for more than 2 hours.