Phở cuốn (Hà Nội fresh phở rolls)

Toss the green papaya and carrot with 30 ml rice vinegar, 30 ml water, 10 g sugar and 1 g salt. Set aside for 15–20 minutes, then drain lightly.

Stir 150 ml water with 30 ml fish sauce, 30 g sugar and 30 ml rice vinegar until the sugar dissolves. Serve the base sauce without garlic. Offer the optional lime or calamansi juice and sliced chilli at the table.

Wash and fully dry the lettuce, húng Láng or mint, and cilantro. Keep ready-to-eat greens separate from raw beef. Take out only the fresh phở sheets needed for assembly and follow the package directions if they require warming.

Pat the whole sirloin dry. Mix 15 ml fish sauce, 5 g sugar, 2 g black pepper, half of the minced garlic and 10 ml oil. Coat the steak, cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.

Heat a heavy wok or skillet over high heat. Add 15 ml oil and the remaining garlic; stir briefly until fragrant. Sear the whole steak, turning as needed, until its thickest part reaches at least 63°C on a clean instant-read thermometer. Transfer it to a clean plate and rest for at least 3 minutes.

On a clean board, slice the rested beef thinly across the grain. Keep cooked beef and its utensils separate from the raw-beef board and utensils.

Separate or cut the fresh phở sheets into 12 pieces. Place a lettuce leaf, húng Láng or mint, cilantro, a little drained pickle and beef on each sheet. Fold the sides in and roll snugly without overfilling. Serve three rolls per person with nước chấm for dipping.

Assemble just before serving. Refrigerate leftover cooked beef, pickles and sauce separately in shallow containers within 2 hours at or below 4°C. Use cooked beef within 3 days and reheat it to 74°C. Store unused fresh sheets as directed on the package; keep herbs and lettuce chilled.