Turkey · Trabzon and the Black Sea

Hamsili Pilav (Anchovy-Wrapped Rice Pilaf)

A fragrant rice pilaf disappears inside overlapping anchovy fillets, emerging from the oven as a burnished round that cuts into savoury wedges.

A Black Sea centrepiece Seafood and rice
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Wide platter of baked hamsili pilav with lemon slices
A short rest helps the complete round release cleanly from its mould.
Prep 60 minutes
Cook 65 minutes
Total 2 hours 20 minutes
Serves 8
Overview

How to Build Hamsili Pilav with an Intact Anchovy Shell

Hamsili pilav asks for two preparations to finish as one. The rice is cooked almost through with onion, pine nuts, currants and warm spice; cleaned anchovies are then overlapped across the base and sides of a round mould, folded over the filling and used again as a complete lid. When inverted, the hidden lining becomes a radial bronze shell. Any uncovered rice patch interrupts both the appearance and the moisture control, so patient lining matters.

Trabzon and other Black Sea records show variations in spice and rice technique, but the defining architecture is consistent. This version uses black pepper, mint and only a trace of cinnamon, enough to make the currants and pine nuts read as an iç pilav without making the fish taste sweet. Parsley is folded in after the rice rests so it keeps a fresher colour.

The anchovies must be butterflied. Pulling out the backbone while keeping the paired fillets joined gives broad pieces that line a mould efficiently. Dry them well: wet fish slip down the buttered wall, dilute the pilaf and resist browning. Small gaps are inevitable on the first pass; reserve the most intact fillets for the upper cover and use narrow pieces as patches.

Rice presents the opposite risk. If fully soft before assembly, it swells again in the sealed mould and turns compressed. Soak and rinse it, sauté it with the aromatics, then stop cooking when the liquid is absorbed and the centre retains a slight firmness. A 15-minute rest redistributes moisture before parsley is folded in and prevents steam from flooding the fish lining.

Bake until the exposed fish is brown and reaches 63°C, then wait ten minutes before turning out. That pause firms the outer layer without letting the rice sit warm for an unsafe period. Serve hot in wedges. A simple salad or plain yogurt is enough; the pine nuts, currants and anchovies already provide the dish's contrast.

Practical

Practical

  • Reserve broad fillets for structural placesUse the widest intact anchovies on the mould walls and top, where gaps are most visible. Narrow or torn pieces work well as base patches.
  • Do not overcook the first-stage pilafThe rice receives another half hour of enclosed heat. Stop while grains retain a tiny firm centre; fully soft rice becomes heavy after baking.
  • Prevent sticking before it startsButter every curve, add a whisper of cornmeal and overlap fish generously. A springform pan can leak butter and fish juices, so use a solid mould.
Ingredients

Ingredients

Anchovy shell

  • 1.8 kg whole (about 1.1 kg cleaned) fresh anchovies butterflied and deboned
  • 16 g fine salt divided
  • 55 g unsalted butter divided
  • 20 g fine cornmeal for the mould

Pilaf filling

  • 400 g medium-grain rice
  • 300 g onion finely diced
  • 40 g pine nuts
  • 45 g dried currants
  • 45 ml olive oil
  • 650 ml hot water or unsalted fish stock
  • 8 g white sugar
  • 3 g black pepper
  • 2 g dried mint
  • 1 g ground cinnamon
  • 30 g flat-leaf parsley chopped
Directions

Directions

Prepare fish and rice

  1. Butterfly the anchovies.Remove heads and innards, open each fish along the belly and lift out the backbone while keeping the fillets joined where possible. Rinse briefly, drain and blot very dry.

    Fillets should open flat with no obvious bones and no water shining on the flesh.
  2. Soak and rinse the rice.Cover rice with warm salted water for 30 minutes. Rinse repeatedly until the water is nearly clear, then drain for 10 minutes so measured cooking liquid remains accurate.

    Drained grains should feel firm and separate rather than chalky with surface starch.
  3. Build the aromatic base.Melt 25 g butter with olive oil. Brown pine nuts lightly, add onion and cook until translucent. Stir in rice for three minutes, then add currants, sugar, pepper, mint, cinnamon, 8 g salt and hot liquid.

    Every rice grain should look glossy before the liquid enters.
  4. Cook just short of tender.Bring to a boil, cover and cook over low heat until liquid absorbs, about 15 minutes. Turn off heat, cover with a clean towel under the lid and rest 15 minutes; fold in parsley gently.

    Grains should be separate and almost tender, with no liquid at the base.

Line and bake

  1. Prepare the mould.Heat oven to 200°C. Butter the mould with 20 g butter and dust with cornmeal. Season fish lightly with the remaining salt.

    Cornmeal should form a fine even film without loose piles in the corners.
  2. Create the fish shell.Overlap anchovies skin-side against the base in a radial pattern. Continue up the wall with tails extending over the rim. Patch every visible gap with smaller fillets.

    Looking into the mould, no bare metal or cornmeal should remain visible.
  3. Fill without compacting.Spoon in pilaf and level it gently; do not press hard. Fold overhanging fillets toward the centre, then cover exposed rice with remaining anchovies, skin-side facing upward. Dot with the final 10 g butter.

    The rice should be fully enclosed, but the mould should not be packed under pressure.
  4. Bake, rest and unmould.Bake 30-35 minutes until browned and representative fish reach 63°C. Rest 10 minutes, loosen the edge, cover with a platter and invert decisively. Lift the mould straight up.

    The round should release intact with a crisp, browned fish pattern and hot centre.
Practical

Practical

Keep assembly food-safe

Have the rice rested, fish cold and mould prepared before lining. Assemble without a long pause and move the dish directly into the preheated oven.

Cool leftovers as wedges

Do not leave the remaining pilaf in its deep round. Cut it, move wedges to shallow containers and refrigerate promptly so the rice cools quickly.

Control points

Control points

  • The pilaf sticks in the mould. Run a thin spatula around the edge, wait five more minutes and invert again. Next time butter and overlap the wall more completely.
  • Rice is mushy. It was cooked fully before assembly or packed firmly. Reduce first-stage liquid slightly and level without compression.
  • Fish is pale. Fillets were wet, the oven underheated or the dish was removed early. Dry well and bake until the exposed top is genuinely browned.
  • The shell has open patches. Reserve several fillets for repairs and overlap them like roof tiles; rice should never show before baking.
Nutrition

Nutrition

  • Calories575 kcal
  • Protein37 g
  • Carbohydrates50 g
  • Fat25 g
  • Saturated fat7 g
  • Fiber3 g
  • Sugars6 g
  • Sodium960 mg

1 of 8 wedges — Approximate values; anchovy yield and retained butter alter each wedge.

Allergens · Food safety

Allergens · Food safety

Allergens: Fish, Milk, Pine nuts; declare according to local rules

Food safety: Keep cleaned fish chilled and assemble promptly. Cook the fish layer to at least 63°C. Refrigerate rice-containing leftovers within 2 hours.

Storage: Cool as shallow wedges and refrigerate up to 2 days. Reheat once, covered, at 180°C until 74°C.

FAQ

FAQ

Must every anchovy be deboned?

Yes for this enclosed pilaf. Butterflied, deboned fillets create an edible shell and make clean wedges; exposed backbones are unpleasant in the finished form.

Can I omit the currants or pine nuts?

You can, but they define this selected iç-pilav profile and the nutrition values assume both. Omission makes a plainer regional variation.

Can I assemble it ahead?

Prepare fish and pilaf separately, but assemble shortly before baking. Holding raw fish against warm rice creates both texture and safety problems.

Why rest before unmoulding?

Ten minutes lets fish juices settle and the outer layer firm. Turning immediately makes the hot shell more likely to tear.

The centrepiece test

The centrepiece test

A successful hamsili pilav stands as one browned round, cuts without crumbling and reveals separate fragrant rice beneath a fully cooked fish shell.

Dry and overlap the anchovies carefully, undercook the rice slightly and allow ten minutes before the decisive turn.