Peruvian picarones with sweet potato and chancaca syrup
Picarones are fried Peruvian dough rings made distinctive by the combination of camote, or sweet potato, and zapallo squash. The vegetables give colour and moisture to a yeasted dough. A chancaca syrup scented with warm spices completes the dessert; without that syrup the result loses a defining flavour.
Unlike a stiff bread dough, the mixture is sticky and elastic. Properly developed gluten and an unhurried rise make it possible to pull the batter into open rings. The water in which the vegetables were cooked also carries some of their flavour into the dough, so it is reserved rather than discarded.
Small rings and steady oil temperature help the thickest part cook before the outside becomes too dark. Chancaca is unrefined cane sugar sold in blocks, sometimes labelled panela. It contributes deeper cane and caramel notes than white sugar; plain white-sugar syrup is not an equal culinary substitute.


