Tolima Viudo Enterrado (Buried River Fish)

Prepare a safe cooking area Use an outdoor fire pit only where open fires are permitted. Clear dry leaves and other fuel from around the pit, keep water or an extinguisher close, and have heat-resistant gloves and a clean shovel ready. Use a sturdy, lidded stainless-steel or cast-iron pot with handles that can tolerate the fire. Wash hands and keep the raw fish, its board and utensils separate from cooked food.

Season and wrap the fish Keep the fish chilled until you are ready to assemble it. Pat it dry with clean paper towels. Mix the tomatoes, scallions, cilantro cimarrón and salt. Spread the mixture over the fish, including inside the cavity if using whole fish. Wrap each large piece in two overlapping banana leaves, folding the edges underneath so the seasoning stays inside. Do not reuse surfaces or utensils that touched raw fish without washing them first.

Layer the vegetables and fish Line the clean pot with two or three banana leaves, leaving enough overhang to fold across the top. Add the cassava and plantain in an even layer. Set the fish parcels over the roots and fold the leaves over them. Close the pot with its lid. The metal vessel is a food-contact barrier: keep the food wrapped and never let it touch soil, ash or unclean surfaces.

Build the earth hearth and cook Make a stable bed of hot embers in the pit. Lower the closed pot onto it with a lifting tool, then bank clean soil or sand around and over the pot without covering the lid handle if you need it for lifting. Build and maintain a controlled fire above the covered chamber. The traditional record describes at least 2 hours; begin checking at that point, since the actual time depends on pit size, soil and fire. Do not leave the fire unattended.

Check the fish and roots Using heat-resistant gloves and tools, remove the pot from the pit and set it on a heatproof surface. Brush away soil before opening. Lift the lid away from your face to release steam. Check the thickest fish portions in two places with a clean food thermometer: they must reach 63°C. If not, close the pot, return it to the hearth and cook in 10–15 minute intervals before checking again. The cassava should be completely tender when pierced with a knife. If the roots need longer, remove cooked fish parcels to a clean covered dish and continue cooking the roots.

Serve while hot Transfer the cooked fish, cassava and plantain to a clean platter lined with fresh banana leaves. Spoon the tomato and herb juices over the fish. Keep the cooked food away from raw-fish utensils and any soil or ash that was removed from the pit.