Ciénaga Arroz con Camarones (Colombian Shrimp Rice)

Prepare the shrimp Keep the shrimp chilled until cooking. Bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan, add the shrimp and simmer until the flesh is pearly and opaque, about three minutes depending on size. Lift them out onto a clean tray and strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl. When cool enough to handle, peel and devein the shrimp; keep them covered. Crush the heads in a mortar with a ladle of the strained liquid, then pass this mixture through the sieve back into the broth.

Build the hogao Warm the oil in a heavy lidded pot over medium heat. Add the scallions, tomatoes, red pepper, garlic and ají. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables soften into a thick, glossy sauce. Stir in the tomato paste, cumin, black pepper and most of the salt. Taste the broth before adding the remaining salt; shrimp and tomato paste vary in saltiness.

Coat and toast the rice Add the drained rice to the pot. Stir for about five minutes so each grain is coated with the hogao and the rice smells lightly toasted. Warm the shrimp broth separately if it has cooled, then pour it into the pot and stir once. Bring the liquid to a steady simmer.

Cook until the grains are tender Cook uncovered until most of the liquid has been absorbed and small steam holes appear across the surface. Fold in the cooked shrimp gently. Cover, reduce the heat to low and cook until the rice is tender. If the grains remain firm and the pot looks dry, add a small splash of hot water and continue covered; if liquid pools, leave the lid ajar briefly.

Rest and serve Turn off the heat and leave the pot covered for five minutes. Loosen the rice gently with a fork, keeping the shrimp intact. It should be moist and cohesive, not soupy. Serve promptly while hot, with lime wedges if desired.