Nong Han Kumphawapi Lake, known locally as Talay Bua Daeng (“red lotus sea”), transforms into a vast pink expanse during Thailand’s cool season. At roughly 7 kilometers long by 3 kilometers wide, this freshwater lake in Udon Thani province fills every winter (December–February) with millions of deep-pink bua daeng water lilies. The spectacle has drawn global notice: CNN even described it as the world’s “second strangest lake”. Calm dawns reveal a sea of blossoms stretching to the horizon – a botanical mosaic unlike anywhere else in Thailand. Each January, a local Red Lotus Festival at nearby Wat Bandiem celebrates this peak bloom.
Nong Han Kumphawapi Lake is the lake’s official name, but in Thai it’s better known as Talay Bua Daeng, literally “Red Lotus Sea.” (In English sources it’s often called “Red Lotus Lake” or “Red Lotus Sea” interchangeably.) The Thai name breaks down as talay (“sea”) and bua daeng (“red lotus”), reflecting the vivid blooms. In practice, both names are used on signs and maps; travelers should look for “ทะเลบัวแดง” (Talay Bua Daeng) on highway markers.
Despite its nickname, the lake’s blossoms are not true lotus (Nelumbo) at all, but pink tropical water lilies of the family Nymphaeaceae. Thai visitors still call them bua daeng, or “red lotuses,” but botanically they behave like water lilies: their buds rise roughly 10–15 centimeters above the surface each morning and close again by midday. This rise-and-fall cycle is why visitors must come at dawn – by late morning the petals fold up and the lake becomes a field of green lily pads.
The Red Lotus Lake lies in Kumphawapi District of Udon Thani Province, about 40–50 km southeast of Udon Thani city (roughly a one-hour drive). It sits at approximately 17°26′N 103°17′E in the heart of Isan. This lowland basin (the Nong Han Kumphawapi Basin) is a significant water source for agriculture. Its quiet, shallow waters (often under 1 meter deep in the blooming season) spread over an area roughly 7×3 km. The main access point for boats is near Ban Bua Daeng village at the lake’s northeast edge (Ban Diam on road maps). Signs on Highway 2 (Mittraphap Road) mark the turnoff after Ban Phue, and from there paved local roads lead to the lakeside pier. A small train station (Huai Sam Phat) lies about 10 km from the lake and offers limited service, but most visitors travel by road.
A well-timed trip is crucial. The lake’s blooms are strictly seasonal, tied to Thailand’s cool, dry season. Visitors should plan on seeing it between December and February.
Month | Bloom Condition | Visitor Notes |
December | Early bloom (≈30–60%) | Flowers begin to open; fewer crowds. |
January | Peak bloom (≈90–100%) | Best time – full coverage, Red Lotus Festival mid-month. |
February | Winding down (≈50–80%) | Many flowers remain early month; fade by late Feb. |
March–Nov | No major blooms (≈0%) | Lake is mostly green; good for bird-watching and fishing scenes. |
February’s mornings are often clear, but by mid-afternoon most lilies are closed.
Sunrise to 9–10 AM is the magic period. The water lilies open with first light (sunrise is roughly 6:00–7:00 am in mid-winter) and begin to close late morning. Photographers recommend heading out at dawn; by 11:00 am the blooms will be mostly folded away, leaving only green pads. It’s common for tour boats to depart around 6:30–7:00 am so visitors can witness sunrise through the flowers. (Note: if the sky is cloudy, blooms may not open fully; the best displays occur under clear skies.)
Outside winter, the Red Lotus Lake is not blooming, but it still has appeal. From March through November, the flowers are dormant or few; the surface is a patchwork of green wetland. This is prime time for bird-watching: herons, egrets, kingfishers and other waterbirds are often spotted among the tall reeds. Local fishermen routinely set lift-nets (koi pla) on the lake, creating photogenic scenes of traditional rural life. The lake waters recede in the dry months, opening mudflats where wading birds forage. Visiting off-season means no boat traffic (many tour operators pause then) and very few other tourists. Weather is hotter and rainier from April–October.
Because Talay Bua Daeng is fairly remote, travelers must combine multiple transport modes.
Navigating to the Pier: The main boat dock is on the northeast side of the lake at Ban Diam (Ban Bua Daeng). A small car park and ticket stalls mark the entrance. Signage on Highway 2 and local roads will lead to Ban Diam (Wat Bandiem) where boats launch.
A boat tour is the only way to fully experience the blossoms. Boats depart from Ban Diam near the lakeshore. Two main boat types serve visitors: traditional wooden long-tail boats (narrow and maneuverable) and larger aluminum-motor tour boats. Long-tail boats are ideal for couples or solo travelers (they carry 2–4 people), while big boats can hold 6–8 passengers comfortably. Both have a roof and bench seating; all boats provide life jackets at no extra charge.
Boat Type | Capacity | Cost (THB) | Notes |
Traditional long-tail | ~2–4 people | ~300 per hour | Best for couples/photography. More maneuverable but less stable. |
Aluminum tour boat | ~6–8 people | ~500 per hour | Larger groups. More stable deck with straw mats and canopy. |
Boats are rented by the hour; most common trips are 60 or 90 minutes. (Some operators bundle tours into 2‑hour packages, which typically cost 300 THB for a small boat and 500 THB for a large one). The boat captain will guide you into the thickest lotus patches, pause at photogenic spots, and stop if you request to take pictures. Most drivers are familiar with the best morning light and will try to align the trip with sunrise.
Passengers should expect a serene cruise. On a typical morning the water is calm and glassy, the air cool and slightly fragrant with damp vegetation. The only sound is the gentle hum of the motor as you glide through the blooms. Bright pink flowers and emerald pads surround the boat on all sides. In some channels, stretching ribbons of blossoms parted by wooden boat wakes create “river” patterns in the lake. Boats often stop near small shrine-islets or where local fishermen are operating lift nets – these local sights add character to the tour.
Make sure to wear sun-protective clothing. Even before the sun is fully up, dew-saturated paths and open sky can cause sunburn. Long sleeves, a wide-brim hat, and sunscreen are recommended. You’ll be very exposed once the sun rises higher. Also, bring a lightweight jacket for the early-morning chill if you’re sensitive to cooler temperatures.
Golden-hour lakescapes: The best light is at dawn. Photograph the blossoms with the soft pastel sky by aiming east. As Adventures of Jellie recounts, “the only sound… was the purr of the boat as it sped towards the rising sun” – which underscores how magical sunrise can be. Ideally arrive just before sunrise (around 6:00–6:30 am in January) to capture the full transition from dawn pinks to golden light. Thailand’s cool-season skies are usually clear blue, which contrasts beautifully with the pink flowers.
Equipment: A wide-angle lens (e.g. 16–35 mm or a phone on panorama mode) is excellent for emphasizing the “sea of flowers” effect. Position the horizon low to include more sky and reflections. A telephoto (200–300 mm) is useful for detail shots of individual blossoms or distant birds (herons and kingfishers are common). If shooting handheld from the boat, use a shutter speed of at least 1/500s to freeze any slight motion (boats can drift). For static compositions (sunrise on the horizon, or symmetrical lily pads), a tripod or stabilized grip can help, though a small reflection on still water often gives mirror-like results even hand-held.
Composition tips: Frame long lines of channel water as leading lines through the lilies. Include a boat or two in the foreground for scale; the contrast of a blue boat hull against pink flowers is very striking. The Tielandtothailand blog notes scenes where “well-traveled boat routes among the flowers… look like paved roads that snaked and shimmered” – you can mimic that effect by positioning yourself at the end of a cleared channel. Try both high-angle (filling the frame with blossoms) and low-angle (shot over the bow of the boat) perspectives.
Drone photography: If you have a drone, you can get spectacular top-down or sweeping shots of the lake. Be advised: Thai law requires all camera-equipped drones ≥2 kg to be registered with the Civil Aviation Authority. Also, drones must stay at least 9 km from airports. The lake itself is far from any airport, but if you shoot the nearby temple or parks, check that no restrictions apply. Always yield to boat traffic and share the sky courteously with other tourists.
The Red Lotus Lake is steeped in local legend. One popular tale involves a tragic love story. In the old story of Princess Nang Ai (also called Nang Aikham) and the princes Phadaeng and Phangkhi, the color red symbolizes eternal love and devotion. A common version says that after the princess’s love-drunken betrothed was killed, her own mother cried so many tears that a red lotus lake sprang up in her memory. In another telling, the lake’s flowers are the tears of a grieving noblewoman, each blossom a teardrop of love lost. Whatever the version, lotus flowers carry strong symbolic meaning in Thai culture – the Thai lotus is a symbol of purity and spiritual enlightenment in Buddhism. Locals often interpret the bloom as a sign of love, rebirth, or blessings.
Even today, many Thai visitors treat the lake as a sacred natural site. Small shrines and Buddha images on nearby islets are tended by monks and villagers. Locals make merit by releasing lotus flowers into the water and praying for good fortune. As Hormduk Resort observes, “The Red Lotus Lake is treated as a sacred site by many Thais… people come to pay respect and seek blessings from the spirits”. This blend of folklore and faith adds a poetic dimension to the visit: you’re floating on a sea of symbolic flowers, under a sky blessed by many legends.
Even apart from the blooms, Nong Han Kumphawapi is a thriving freshwater ecosystem. The mix of open water, floating vegetation, and marshlands supports diverse life. Birdwatchers will spot egrets, herons, and swamphens stalking the shallows, as well as colorful kingfishers darting by. In early morning light, it’s common to see Great Egrets and Purple Herons silhouetted among the lotus stalks. Other year-round residents include Lesser Whistling Ducks, White-breasted Waterhens, and the elegant Black-crowned Night Heron. The endangered Sarus Crane has even been recorded here in migration.
The water is home to fish and aquatic creatures adapted to the shallow lake. Local fishermen catch fresh fish (pla chon, som pa) using fine net traps. You may glimpse turtles basking on driftwood or snapping turtles skimming beneath the surface. Along the shore grow dense reeds and tall grasses, sheltering many small birds, frogs, and insects.
As a visitor, observe wildlife respectfully: keep a distance from birds (especially any nests), don’t throw food into the water, and stay on the boat channels marked by flowers. The lake’s ecosystem is fragile – touching or trampling the floating plants can harm them. Enjoy the natural soundtrack: the croak of frogs, calls of kingfishers, and the rustle of reeds in the breeze.
Staying close to the lake lets you enjoy the early morning blooms without a gruelling drive. Accommodation options in and around Ban Bua Daeng (Ban Diam) are limited but memorable:
Alternatively, many travelers stay in Udon Thani city (35–50 km away) and make a day trip. Udon offers every comfort: hotels range from budget guesthouses to luxury brands (Centara Grand Udon, Pullman, etc.). If you stay in the city, plan for a pre-dawn taxi (some drivers will wait or return later). Note: An on-call driver for round-trip can cost ~1,600–2,000 THB for two people, which you could split with fellow travelers.
Item | Cost (THB) | Notes |
Round-trip taxi (Udon T.–lake) | 1,200 – 2,000‡ | Rates vary by season and bargaining. |
Boat rental (small boat, 1hr) | ~300 | Can fit 2 people; 1.5–2 hrs often offered. |
Boat rental (large boat, 1hr) | ~500 | Fits up to 6 passengers. |
Snacks/coffee at pier | 50 – 150 per person | Sticky rice, grilled meat, coffee, etc.. |
Total (approx) | 1,550 – 2,950‡ | Dependent on taxi cost and boat time. |
‡Taxi costs depend on season. We suggest getting a quote from your hotel or negotiating per km if possible.
Packing Checklist: – Hat, sunglasses, sunscreen (morning sun is strong)
– Lightweight jacket or sweater (early chill)
– Camera with extra batteries/memory (no charging at lake)
– Portable charger/power bank
– Small towel or waterproof bag (rose pink petals can be damp)
– Personal snacks or fruit (optional)
– Cash in small bills (for boat, food, tips)
– Tissue/hand sanitizer (restrooms may be minimal)
If you extend your trip beyond the Red Lotus Lake, the Udon Thani region has several notable sites:
Integrating Red Lotus Lake into a multi-day Isan itinerary is ideal. For example, Day 1 can be spent at the lake and nearby Ban Chiang; Day 2 exploring Udon City and nearby caves or provincial parks; Day 3 visiting Loei or Nong Khai.
Q: What exactly is the Red Lotus Lake? A: Red Lotus Lake (Talay Bua Daeng) is the local name for Nong Han Kumphawapi Lake in Udon Thani, Thailand. Each winter its surface blooms into a vast carpet of pink lotus-water-lilies, giving the impression of a “sea of flowers.” It is a natural freshwater lake, not a saltwater sea. CNN has noted its peculiar beauty, dubbing it “the second strangest lake in the world”.
Q: When is the best time to see the lotus bloom? A: Visit between December and February, with January being peak bloom. Early January typically has the most flowers open. The Red Lotus Festival is held in mid-January to celebrate the peak bloom. Plan for clear-weather mornings; the cool-season climate brings sunny skies which make the pink color vivid.
Q: What time of day should I go? A: Very early morning. The lotuses open at dawn (about 6:00–6:30 am) and start closing by late morning. Aim to be on the lake by sunrise. If you arrive after 10:00 am, most flowers will be closed.
Q: How do I get to Red Lotus Lake from Bangkok or Udon Thani? A: Fly or bus to Udon Thani (UTH). From Udon Thani, the lake is ~40–50 km southeast (1 hour by car). The simplest is to hire a taxi or rent a car for the round trip (about 1,600–2,000 THB for two people). Public transport options are very limited. Alternatively, some private tours/bookings include transport from Udon Thani.
Q: Can I take the train? A: A rural train line passes near the lake (Huai Sam Phat station), but service is infrequent. Most tourists prefer road transport.
Q: How much is a boat ride? A: Boat tours cost approximately 300 THB for a small 2-person boat or 500 THB for a larger boat (up to 6 people). The price usually covers about 1.5–2 hours on the water and includes life jackets. There is no separate entrance fee to the lake – just the boat rental.
Q: Are life jackets provided? A: Yes. Every boat comes equipped with life jackets at no extra charge. Child-sized vests may be limited, so parents often hold young children on their lap.
Q: Is it safe to swim in the lake? A: Swimming is not recommended. The lake is shallow with lots of vegetation. There are no lifeguards or designated swim areas. It’s best to stay on the boat or near the shore. The water at dawn can be quite cool, and by midday the surface is covered with plants, making swimming impractical.
Q: What should I wear and bring? A: Dress for warm weather but bring a light layer. Long sleeves and long pants protect from sun and mosquitos. Wear a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen (the morning sun still can burn). Because you’ll be on a boat, shoes that can get wet or be easily removed (like sandals) are best. Bring water, some snacks, and a camera. Also pack toilet paper and hand sanitizer – lakeside restrooms may lack amenities.
Q: Is Red Lotus Lake worth visiting? A: Many travelers say it is a unique sight in Thailand. If you love nature, photography, or unusual landscapes, you’ll likely find it worthwhile in season. The scene is quite different from Thailand’s temples or beaches. However, if you only have a brief trip, consider the cost/time (and season). Visiting outside bloom season will be less dramatic, so we advise going only in Dec–Feb..
Lastly, savor the moment. Hundreds of flowers moving in unison on still water is rare to witness. As you float among the blooms at dawn, with mist rising and silhouettes of distant Buddha statues, you’ll appreciate why locals revere this place. It may be a bit out of the way, but for those who come, Red Lotus Lake offers a dawn-lit, floral panorama unlike anywhere else in Thailand.
