Kuršumlijska Banja

Kuršumlijska Banja, a spa town nestled in the municipality of Kuršumlija in south Serbia, boasts a rich history dating back to Roman times. As of the 2011 census, this small yet significant locality had a population of 106 inhabitants. The town’s strategic location and therapeutic mineral springs have played a pivotal role in shaping its identity and development over the centuries.

Situated on both sides of the Niš-Priština highway, Kuršumlijska Banja lies approximately 11 kilometers southwest of Kuršumlija, its municipal seat. The town’s proximity to the administrative border with Kosovo, less than 10 kilometers away, adds to its geopolitical significance. The settlement spans the valley slopes of the Banjska River, a right tributary of the Toplica River, and extends onto the southeast slopes of the Kopaonik mountain. This picturesque setting, with elevations ranging from 440 to 500 meters above sea level, provides a natural backdrop for the town’s spa facilities.

The history of Kuršumlijska Banja as a therapeutic destination traces back to the Roman era, as evidenced by archaeological findings including wall remains, bricks, silver coins of Emperor Philip the Arab, tombs, and altars made of grey tufa. However, the modern development of the spa began in 1883, reaching its first peak by 1930. This growth trajectory was briefly interrupted by World War II but resumed in the post-war period.

The spa town’s infrastructure saw significant improvements in the 20th century. Electricity arrived in Kuršumlijska Banja in 1930, with modernization efforts continuing in 1947-1948. The establishment of a local public waterworks system marked another milestone, although some residents continued to rely on natural water springs and individual wells.

The mineral waters of Kuršumlijska Banja are renowned for their therapeutic properties. With temperatures ranging from 14 to 64 degrees Celsius, these waters are rich in minerals and sulfur, making them particularly effective in treating skeletal-muscular conditions. The spa’s waters are classified as sodium hydrocarbon, fluoride, and sulfide hypothermal waters. In addition to hydrotherapy, the spa offered peloid treatments using mud harvested from old springs and was known for addressing fertility issues.

A significant turning point in the spa’s history came in 1922 when King Alexander I Karađorđević officially decreed Kuršumlijska Banja as a royal spa. This royal endorsement catapulted the town into prominence, attracting a wave of tourists and spurring development. The construction of Hotel Jugoslavija at the town’s entrance, designed to accommodate the king and subsequent visitors, symbolized this new era of prosperity.

By 1941, Kuršumlijska Banja had evolved into one of Serbia’s leading spa destinations, hosting numerous festivals and attracting visitors from far and wide. The post-World War II period saw the spa’s transformation into one of the best-organized health resorts in Yugoslavia. The opening of the rehabilitation center Žubor in 1982 marked a significant investment of 17 million Deutsche Marks, further elevating the spa’s status.

The Žubor complex was an impressive facility, covering 16,000 square meters with its main building and surrounding structures, while the entire complex spanned nearly 96,000 square meters. It featured modern amenities including pools (one of Olympic size), bathtubs, saunas, and accommodation for 250 guests. The center employed 130 workers and attracted over 10,000 tourists annually, serving not only as a health retreat but also as a recreational destination and a venue for various festivities.

However, the spa’s fortunes took a downturn in 2006 when ownership disputes led to the closure of the Žubor center. The complex, partially owned by the State Retirement Fund (PIO Fund), became embroiled in legal and financial complications. Despite court decisions favoring state ownership in 2012, the spa remained out of service and fell into disrepair.

In a bid to revitalize the spa, the state attempted to sell the complex in 2018 and 2019, gradually lowering the asking price. Eventually, in February 2020, the company “Planinka,” which owns other spa facilities in the region, purchased Kuršumlijska Banja for approximately 1.4 million euros. The sale, however, was not without controversy, as investigative journalists uncovered potential irregularities in the process, suggesting connections between the buyers and the ruling political party.

The Anti-Corruption Council, a government advisory body, raised serious concerns about the legality of the sale in January 2021. They described the actions of the PIO Fund’s management as potentially involving elements of organized corruption and abuse. The council recommended voiding the contract, pointing out that the state had awarded significant subsidies to the buyer just prior to the purchase.

Despite these controversies, reconstruction of the spa complex began in 2020. The renovation efforts were extensive, with the hotel being completely rebuilt while retaining only its original structural skeleton. The expanded facility now boasts 300 beds, two swimming pools, and a wellness center. Other historical structures, including the Royal bathroom, restaurant Prepolovac, and villa Milica, were also restored. A statue of Hygieia, the Greek goddess of health, was erected on the central spa plateau, symbolizing the town’s enduring connection to wellness and healing.

The revitalized spa, renamed Planinka, was slated to reopen in February 2023, marking a new chapter in the town’s history. This development coincides with broader regional initiatives, including the construction of a new road across the Radan mountain. This infrastructure project aims to connect a string of tourist localities in southern Serbia, potentially boosting the area’s appeal to visitors.