Banja Ždrelo

Spa Ždrelo occupies a narrow band of land at the entrance to the Gornjačka Gorge in Serbia’s Braničevo District, roughly 120 kilometres east of Belgrade and under ten kilometres from the town of Petrovac na Mlavi. Named for the medieval fortress whose foundations still punctuate the surrounding hillsides, the spa rests at an altitude between 160 and 240 metres above sea level and draws visitors with its constant 40 °C mineral waters, layered historical remains and the sweeping presence of the Homolje Mountains.

The earliest chapter of Żdrelo’s story unfolds in the late thirteenth century, when the fortress served as the stronghold of the Bulgarian magnates Drman and Kudelin. From ramparts now visible only as ruined stone courses at sites known today as Jezevac, Jerena’s Tower, Uzengija and Dasu Mik, they launched raids against neighbouring realms, including the Kingdom of Hungary and the Serbian realm under King Dragutin of Srem. In 1285, an invasion led by Vladislav IV Arpad culminated in defeat within the Gornjačka Gorge itself. Records describe his forces breaking upon the gorge’s slopes, where the defenders’ knowledge of the terrain proved decisive.

Following Vladislav’s repulse, Dragutin sought to exploit the magnates’ exposed position, but his own campaign fell short of its objective. Only after alliance with his brother Milutin did Dragutin secure victory. Their combined armies wrested control of Braničevo and the fortress of Ždrelo, compelling Drman and Kudelin to abandon the stronghold. From that moment, the site slipped into obscurity, its strategic value eclipsed by shifting political boundaries and emerging centres of power.

Centuries passed before the vestiges of the fortress regained attention as tangible links to the region’s medieval turbulence. The scattered stonework atop the forested hills stands today as one of Central Serbia’s more evocative historical monuments. Visitors surveying the ruined towers at Jezevac or tracing the low embankments at Uzengija confront a landscape once marked by siege engines and watchfires.

Beneath that same terrain the ground holds a more recent revelation. Approximately twenty years ago, while prospecting for coal—a resource long exploited in the Petrovac na Mlavi basin—drillers encountered a plume of steam rising from a borehole at 180 metres depth. The source yielded water at 80 °C that hissed upon release into open air. By the time it reached the surface pools, the fluid cooled to a steady 40 °C, its warmth unvarying through seasons and weather.

An immediate curiosity arose from the water’s pungent odour, frequently likened to rotten eggs. Laboratory analyses attributed this aroma to a high concentration of sulfur, confirming the water’s classification as an oligomineral sulphide homeotherm with bacteriologically pure composition. Medical assessments recognised therapeutic properties suited to rheumatic conditions, skin disorders and post-injury rehabilitation.

Engineering works followed swiftly. A geothermal source basin was constructed to channel the water into an indoor pool maintained at 38 °C, connected by a translucent tube to an exterior complex. There, a larger pool holds water at 34 °C and incorporates hydromassage jets, sprinklers and other amenities derived from whirlpool design. The facility extends beyond medicinal bathing to offer water slides and family-oriented attractions, presenting an aqua park environment alongside spa treatments.

Although the leisure aspects encourage prolonged stays—many guests exceeding the recommended twenty-minute immersion—the therapeutic aim remains primary. Visitors depart each session noting relief from joint stiffness and muscle tension, attributed both to the chemical composition of the waters and to the psychological uplift associated with the site’s castle-like architecture and enveloping panorama.

Surrounding Spa Ždrelo, the natural environment unfolds in a sequence of ridges and valleys shaped by the Homolje Mountains. These low peaks extend from the Pek River in the north to the Mlava River in the south. Among them, Veliki Vukan (825 m) and Mali Vukan (752 m) flank the spa on opposite sides, accessed via marked trails of moderate gradient. Higher elevations such as Pojana Tresnita (880 m) and Stubej (940 m) offer panoramic views over the Gornjačka Gorge and the undulating landscape beyond.

Hiking routes range from well-worn woodland paths to more rugged climbs, catering to varying levels of experience. On clear days the summit of Stubej reveals a sweep of forested slopes, agricultural terraces and the silver thread of the Mlava River meandering toward the Danube. The same river contributes to the region’s biodiversity, sustaining riparian woodlands and marshes that support herons, kingfishers and occasional otter sightings.

Cultural heritage interlaces with the terrain. Close to the spa lie medieval monasteries of Gornjak and Vitovnica, both founded in the fourteenth century. The Gornjak Monastery, attributed to Prince Lazar of Serbia, occupies a rocky enclave deep within a side gorge and retains frescoes of the Palaiologan era. Vitovnica, reputed for its monastic school, houses illuminated manuscripts and wood-carved iconostases dating to the late medieval period.

Further afield stand the churches of Reškovica, dedicated to the Annunciation, and Mitropolija, each preserving regional variations in Byzantine-influenced architecture. Their painted interiors and preserved liturgical objects underscore the spiritual fabric woven through centuries of local life. Pilgrims and art historians alike note the distinctive folk motifs that signal an interplay between Orthodox tradition and rural craftsmen.

In the village of Ždrelo itself, a population of 618 (2011 census) sustains a rhythm of agricultural cultivation, with mulberry trees marking traditional silkworm-rearing sites. Two notable trees—referred to as the Records of Mulberries near the Spring and near the Church—evoke a living link to past livelihoods. Their wide canopies and gnarled trunks offer shaded rest stops for those exploring the archaeological sites or commuting to the spa.

Climbing enthusiasts have found new terrain in the Gornjačka Gorge, where limestone cliffs present routes of graded difficulty. Bolts and anchors installed by local mountaineering clubs facilitate ascents that command views across the Mlava valley. The region has promoted sport-climbing competitions in recent years, drawing participants from throughout Serbia and neighbouring states.

The convergence of history, geology and human endeavour positions Spa Ždrelo as a distinctive case in Serbia’s network of health resorts. Unlike sites with millennia-old spa traditions, Ždrelo’s exploitation began in the early twenty-first century, yet it has matured rapidly, combining modern infrastructure with heritage conservation. The juxtaposition of steaming thermal pools against the skeletal outlines of a thirteenth-century fortress encapsulates the dialogue between past and present.

Tourism strategies emphasise this layered experience. Packages integrate guided tours of the fortress ruins, monastic visits, and outdoor activities—hiking, climbing or river excursions—alongside treatment schedules. Local accommodations range from family-run guesthouses to a modest hotel annex, all framed by the silhouette of the Homolje ridges.

Accessibility remains practical: regional roads link Spa Ždrelo to Petrovac na Mlavi and onward to larger urban centres. Bus services operate daily from Belgrade and Požarevac, and private vehicles may approach the spa via a winding route through the Gornjačka Gorge, offering a preview of the striking limestone walls that narrow above.

Agritourism complements the spa experience. Nearby farms invite guests to sample local produce—cheese, honey and preserved fruits—reflecting the interplay of humid river valleys and limestone slopes. Seasonal festivals showcase traditional music and dance, creating a communal setting that contrasts with the spa’s quieter restorative ambience.

Academic interest has emerged in the chemical and hydrogeological characteristics of the geothermal source. Ongoing studies monitor mineral composition fluctuations, thermal flow rates and potential applications in greenhouse heating. Researchers from the University of Belgrade’s geology faculty have published preliminary reports proposing use of excess heat for small-scale energy generation, although no commercial system currently operates.

Conservation measures protect both natural and built heritage. The fortress ruins are subject to stabilization work to prevent further collapse of key sections. The spa’s expansion adheres to environmental regulations ensuring minimal impact on groundwater tables and adjacent forests. Cultural authorities oversee the maintenance of monastic sites, coordinating with clergy to preserve liturgical practices and art restoration.

Visitor accounts underscore a human dimension to the site. Letters describe mornings spent immersed in steam, afternoons tracing uneven stone walls, and evenings on shaded terraces tasting brandy distilled from local plums. The equilibrium of physical renewal and contemplative exploration recurs as a motif in travel journals and blog posts, suggesting that Ždrelo’s appeal extends beyond its marketed role as a therapeutic destination.

As health tourism models evolve toward holistic well-being, the convergence of spa treatments, historical immersion and natural recreation at Spa Ždrelo offers a template for integrated regional development. By weaving geothermal discovery into the tapestry of local identity, the site illustrates how a single borehole can unlock layers of cultural resonance and economic potential.

In its present form Spa Ždrelo stands at the nexus of discovery and tradition. Its thermal waters derive from forces deep within the earth, their properties acknowledged only recently, while the fortress remains testify to human conflict from over seven centuries ago. The Homolje Mountains rise behind, and the Mlava River flows below, sustaining ecological communities that predate written record. Within this landscape visitors find the dual refuge of warm mineral baths and silent stone ruins, each inviting reflection on the relationships between nature, history and health.