Mchadi with Borano (მჭადი ბორანოთი)

Soften and taste the cheese. Crumble or shred it into a heatproof bowl. Pour boiling water over the cheese to soften it, then drain and gently squeeze. Taste a small piece; if it is still too salty, repeat once with fresh boiling water. Set aside.

Brown the butter. Melt the salted butter in a small heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. Let the water foam away, then continue until the milk solids are deep golden and smell nutty. Do not let them smoke or turn black. Strain the butter through a fine sieve, leaving the dark sediment behind, and keep it hot.

Mix the mchadi dough. Stir the cornmeal and 3 g salt together. Add room-temperature water gradually, mixing by hand until the dough is firm, pliable and holds together. Depending on the grind, it may take less than 300 ml.

Shape the cakes. Divide the dough into eight equal portions. With damp hands, shape each into an oval patty about 1 cm thick. Smooth any edge cracks with wet fingertips. Keep the dough plain; the cheese belongs in the borano.

Pan-cook the mchadi. Heat a heavy lidded skillet over medium heat and wipe it with a thin film of sunflower oil. Cook the cakes in batches, covered, for 5–6 minutes on the first side. Turn and cook uncovered for another 5–6 minutes, until both sides are golden and the centers are hot and cooked through.

Warm the borano. Put the softened, drained cheese in a heavy pot with about 30 g of the hot browned butter. Warm over low heat for 10–15 minutes, turning and folding gently until steaming, glossy and stretchy. If it needs loosening, add a spoonful of hot water. Do not add flour or egg to this version.

Serve at once. Divide the cheese among four deep, warm bowls and spoon the remaining browned butter over it, leaving the dark sediment behind. Serve each person two hot mchadi for tearing and dipping.