Tamales Vallunos: Valle del Cauca Pork and Hogao Tamales

Prepare the vegetables and eggs Simmer the potatoes in water for about 8 minutes, until just beginning to soften but still holding their shape. Drain and spread on a tray to cool. Cook the carrots for 4–5 minutes until just tender, then drain. Hard-cook the eggs, cool them promptly, peel and quarter them lengthways. Keep the cooked peas ready in a separate bowl.

Season and marinate the pork Set aside 120 g of the hogao for the filling and use the rest later for the masa and parcels. Season the pork shoulder and ribs with about half the salt and a few spoonfuls of hogao. Cover and refrigerate for 1–4 hours. Do not leave raw pork at room temperature to marinate. Keep the meat on a tray below ready-to-eat foods.

Cook the pork and belly Bring the pork shoulder and ribs to a steady simmer in a covered pan with enough water or stock to come partway up the meat. Cook until the pork is tender, about 45–60 minutes, adding liquid if needed. Check that the meat is fully cooked; poultry is not used in this version. In a separate skillet, cook the pork belly over medium heat until the fat renders and the pieces are browned at the edges. Drain on a plate. If the ribs have bones, remove them after cooking and check carefully for small bone fragments. Reserve some clean cooking liquid for the masa if you like.

Mix and rest the masa Whisk the masa harina and remaining salt in a large bowl. Stir in the melted lard and about half of the remaining hogao. Gradually add warm water or reserved pork stock, mixing until the dough is soft, spreadable and holds a mound without running. You may not need all 1.2 L. Cover and rest for 1 hour so the masa hydrates evenly. After resting, mix briefly and adjust with a little more liquid if it has become stiff.

Soften the leaves and assemble the parcels Wipe the banana leaves clean and warm each panel briefly over a low flame or in a dry skillet until flexible; do not char them. Lay 2 panels crosswise. Spread a generous layer of masa over the centre, then add portions of pork, pork belly, potato, carrot and peas. Place a quartered egg on top, add a spoonful of the reserved hogao and a few capers if using, then cover with another layer of masa. Fold the leaves into a compact, leak-resistant parcel and tie securely with twine. Repeat to make 12 tamales, keeping the assembled parcels covered.

Steam until the centres are hot throughout Pour about 3 L water into the steamer, keeping it below the rack. Bring to a steady simmer. Arrange the tamales with their folds uppermost, leaving a little room for steam to circulate. Cover tightly and steam for about 90–120 minutes. Check the water partway through and top up with boiling water if needed. Using a clean thermometer, check the centre of more than one parcel; each must reach at least 73.9°C. If any centre is cooler, continue steaming and check again. Time alone is not a safety check.

Rest and serve Turn off the heat and leave the tamales covered for 10 minutes. Lift them out carefully and serve hot in their leaves. Let each person open a parcel at the table, directing the steam away from hands. The masa should be set and soft, with pork and vegetables held together in the hogao-seasoned layers.