Cazuela de mariscos (Colombian seafood casserole)

Keep the seafood cold and sort the clams Buy seafood from an approved seller and keep it at or below 4°C until you are ready to cook. Thaw frozen seafood in the refrigerator. Scrub the clams under cold running water; discard any with cracked shells and any that remain open when tapped. Keep raw seafood and its juices away from the vegetables, cooked foods and clean utensils.

Steam the clams and strain their liquor Put 240 ml of the measured water in a lidded saucepan and bring it to a boil. Add the clams, cover and steam for 5 minutes, shaking the pan once so they heat evenly. Remove the clams as they open; discard any that remain closed. Strain the cooking liquor through a fine-mesh sieve lined with clean cloth to catch sand. Remove the clam meat from the opened shells and refrigerate it while you prepare the broth.

Cook the prawns and build the stock Heat the remaining measured water with the strained clam liquor in a large stockpot. Add the prawns and tiger shrimp and cook for about 4 minutes, until firm, pearly and opaque. Lift them out, peel and refrigerate the meat. Return the shells to the stock and simmer for 10 minutes to draw out their flavor. Strain the stock and discard the shells.

Make the hogao While the stock simmers, warm the oil in a wide, heavy pan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and scallions and cook, stirring, until softened. Stir in the tomatoes, thyme, oregano, black pepper and salt. Cook gently until the mixture is soft and saucy, about 10 minutes. Cut the fish into bite-size chunks and turn it through the hogao for 5 minutes; keep the pieces intact.

Simmer the vegetables and squid Add the carrot, celery, bell peppers and thinly sliced squid to the strained stock. Bring it to a gentle simmer and cook for 15 minutes, until the vegetables begin to soften. Stir in the tomato paste and the hogao with the fish. Simmer gently for about 10 minutes, stirring carefully so the fish does not break apart.

Finish the seafood and wine Add the cooked clam meat, prawns and shrimp. Heat just until the seafood is hot and the thickest fish pieces reach 63°C; shrimp should remain firm, pearly and opaque. Pour in the white wine or sherry and boil for 1 minute. Taste and adjust the seasoning only if needed. If using cream, take the pot off the boil, divide the stew among warmed cazuelas, stir 24 ml cream into each portion and warm for 1 minute without boiling.

Serve hot and cool leftovers promptly Serve the cazuela hot in warmed black clay cazuelas or deep bowls. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours and keep them at or below 4°C; use within 2 days. Reheat leftovers once to 74°C, stirring so the stew heats evenly.