The term “winter with taste” in St. Moritz evokes a landscape where snow-glazed peaks meet Michelin-starred dining and old-world cultural flair. Here, sophistication is as palpable as the crisp mountain air. St. Moritz offers more than slopes and sunshine: it is an Alpine stage for refined living, where gourmet gastronomy, exclusive events on the frozen lake, and first-rate winter sports intertwine. Rather than a typical ski report, this guide weaves together historical context, sensory detail, and practical insight. Readers will journey from broad strokes—an introduction to the “champagne climate” and founding of winter tourism—to concrete tips on restaurants, events, and lodging. Throughout, firsthand observations and local voices ground the narrative. No brochure clichés: instead, expect grounded descriptions of spiced mulled wine aromas drifting from a palace hotel kitchen, the snap of skates on the lake at dawn, or a chef plating Bündnerfleisch with care. By the end, “winter with taste” will mean not just gourmet food but a rich blend of sensory and cultural depth unique to St. Moritz.
Saint Moritz (officially St. Moritz), in the Upper Engadin valley of Graubünden, sits at 1,856 meters above sea level. It enjoys a renowned “champagne climate” – low humidity and 322 days of sunshine per year. Even midwinter days often bring clear blue skies, thanks to the thinning air at altitude. Geographically, the resort town lies beside Lake St. Moritz and is framed by the majestic Piz Bernina massif (4,049 m) to the south.
Insider Tip: At sunrise the frozen lake often glitters with a pale pink hue. Early-morning skaters or cross-country skiers sometimes find the mirror-like ice completely still, a hush broken only by distant cowbells.
Location & Climate: St. Moritz is about 3.5 hours by train or car from Zurich, and roughly 4 hours from Milan. The famous Bernina Express panoramic train provides a scenic winter journey via the UNESCO World Heritage RhB railway; it threads through snowy forests and over the Landwasser Viaduct on its way to St. Moritz. Winter temperatures average from –5°C (23°F) by day to –15°C (5°F) on clear nights, though the bright sun often makes chill feel milder.
Seasonal Snapshot: The peak season for Winter St. Moritz runs from late December through February. December’s early weeks see Christmas markets on the lake, while mid-January to February is the high season: ski races, polo tournaments on snow, and packed gourmet tables. For value, note that hotel rates drop in March, even while the days lengthen and festivals like the SunIce outdoor music event take center stage. (March skiing can be excellent, especially on glacier slopes.)
Getting There: Regular trains connect Chur–St. Moritz via the Albula line; winter services include scenic panorama cars. From Zurich, hourly trains (via Chur) make St. Moritz accessible without driving. By road, the main routes over the Julier and Maloja passes can be snowy; tourists often use booked transfers or taxis, especially at night. Skiers often fly to Zurich or Milan (Malpensa), then transfer by rail or road.
At a Glance: A quick table of basics helps plan arrival:
Detail | Information |
Elevation | 1,856 m (6,089 ft) |
Climate | “Champagne climate” (cold, dry, 300+ sunny days) |
Winter Season (ski) | Mid-Dec to late March |
Key Winter Events | Snow Polo (Jan 23–25, 2026); White Turf (Feb weekends, 2026); The I.C.E. (Jan 30–31, 2026); SunIce (Mar 19–21, 2026) |
Nearest Airports | Zurich (D/SWIB), 180 km; Milan (MXP), 210 km |
Ski Pass (6-day adult) | Approx. CHF 600 (as of 2025) |
Practical Info: Snow conditions vary by season. By January, the main ski resorts (Corviglia, Corvatsch) are typically fully open. Public buses and private shuttles circulate among villages (Sils, Celerina, Pontresina) and ski lifts. The local topography rewards early planning: booking ski lessons or transfers weeks in advance is advised in high season.
St. Moritz’s reputation as a culinary hub matches its athletic fame. Chefs train in the Alps’ classical French style but celebrate local fare. The valley’s signature dishes — Capuns (herbed chard wraps filled with spätzle dough and dried meat), Pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta with greens and cheese), Bündnerfleisch (air-dried beef) and the sweet Engadiner Nusstorte (caramel walnut tart) — find a place on even the fanciest menus.
Yet dining in St. Moritz is not only about rustic tradition. Several Michelin-starred restaurants and upscale venues deliver avant-garde takes on global cuisine. Expect menus that pair Swiss alpine ingredients with Mediterranean or Japanese influences, and wine lists boasting European fine vintages.
Fine Dining Highlights: Among the top gourmet addresses:
– Le Restaurant at Badrutt’s Palace (2★) – Renowned for its classic elegance and seasonal tasting menus.
– La Marmite on Corviglia – A ski-in gourmet stop famed for grilled meats and raclette.
– Vivanda at Kulm Hotel – Modern Italian-Japanese fusion with lake views.
– CheCha at the Palace – Offers creative comfort food (one star).
– Chesa Veglia – One of Switzerland’s oldest restaurants (since 1658), a cozy spot for fondue and haute alpine cuisine (one star).
Top 5 St. Moritz Restaurants & Culinary Highlights:
1. Le Restaurant (Badrutt’s Palace) – Refined multi-course menus; fresh truffle and caviar options.
2. Vivanda (Kulm Hotel) – Trendy atmosphere, sushi and Mediterranean flair amid Art Nouveau interiors.
3. Chesa Veglia – Historic wood-paneled dining room for Italian-Swiss classics and fondue.
4. La Marmite (Corviglia) – Mountain retreat; speciality fondues and local wines in a modern chalet.
5. La Margna (hotel Kulm) – Alpine gourmet brasserie with seasonal dishes (seafood in winter is rare, so seafood nights are special).
Hidden away in these grand hotels and mountain chalets, expect to see expert sommeliers and dishes artfully plated. In French and German, menus often reference local producers: “from the farmers of Oberengadin” or name nearby alp cheese makers.
Traditional Engadin Flavors: For a truly regional taste, try local dishes even outside fine restaurants. The Engadin Foundation and regional artisans sell products in markets around Via Serlas. At cafés and bistros, savor warm rye bread and herb cheese spread, or sip a robust Engadiner Kirschtorte – cherry brandy cake, a specialty spirit of the valley.
Local Perspective: “Engadin food is honest and hearty — but here we refine it like a fine liqueur,” notes a culinary guide in Sils. “Even simple Capuns feel like luxury when the ingredients have Alpine sun and cold mountain air in them.”
Après-Ski & Bars: When the ski boots come off, St. Moritz’s social scene springs to life. The Sunny Bar at Kulm (with its panoramic terrace) and the Artist’s Lounge at Badrutt’s (with live jazz nights) mix cocktail elegance with cozy lodge culture. Here, locals and visitors may discuss the day over an Engadinberry Spritz or local craft gin. For a more local vibe, smaller pubs like Bar Helvetia welcome families and have heated terraces.
Mountain Restaurants (Gourmet at Altitude): Dining by ski lift adds a thrill to a meal. Many gondola-accessible eateries balance good food with view: “La Marmite” (Corviglia) and Chasellas (Corvatsch, 2,501 m) offer split-grade menus – gourmet midday, simpler at evening. As a rule, lunch on the mountain is typically Swiss comfort food (fondue sets, homemade soups), while dinner requires reservations and may have fixed tasting menus.
Hotel Gastronomy: Both Badrutt’s and Kulm have multiple outlets, from the grand Le Grand ballrooms to the historic “Sunny Bar” at Kulm. Not to be missed is the gourmet buffet breakfast: ham and cheese carved tableside, live omelette stations, and trays of pastries.
Culinary Events: Food festivals and wine events punctuate the season. The Champagne Festival (February) invites top Champagne maisons, while smaller pop-ups (like a “Burger and Raclette week” or burger tasting on the ice) occasionally appear. In winter 2026, look for a gourmet chalet event during Amusements on the Lake, where local producers set up tasting stands.
Practical Dining Tips: Advance booking is essential, especially Dec–Feb. Many top restaurants fill weeks ahead; Palace hotels can handle bookings for guests, while independent travelers should reserve via phone or email (confirm guest lists). Menu prices in St. Moritz trend high: a fine multi-course dinner typically runs CHF 150–300 per person (wine extra). For budget-conscious options that still feel authentic, try village staples like pizzaria Fenomeno or self-service buffets at Corviglia’s restaurants (e.g. restaurant El Paradiso at the top of Corviglia’s blue run).
St. Moritz’s snowy terrain lends itself to far more than downhill runs. Beyond the 350+ km of groomed piste at Corviglia, Corvatsch and Diavolezza, the area offers unique Alpine sports – some pioneered here. Even non-skiers find plenty of ways to revel in the snow.
Skiing & Snowboarding: Gravity lovers have choice. Corviglia (the resort above St. Moritz Dorf) is family-friendly, while nearby Corvatsch (3,303 m peak) boasts the highest vertical drop and Switzerland’s longest night-skiing run (4.2 km floodlit). Off-piste guides are available to explore powder fields. Novices often start at the wide, gentle Corviglia slopes; instructors speak English, German, Italian, Russian, and even Mandarin, reflecting St. Moritz’s international clientele.
Callout – Practical Info: Lift passes in 2025 start around CHF 80 for a day adult; families can buy combination passes covering Engadin’s multiple ski areas. As of 2025, children under 6 ski free at most venues.
The Legendary Cresta Run: Nearby in Celerina lies the Cresta Run, the world’s original skeleton toboggan track (since 1884). Every morning in winter, an international club of brave sledders hurtles head-first down its 1,214-meter ice track, reaching speeds around 100 km/h. Non-members can experience Cresta too: first-timers take a day’s lesson (toboggan and helmet provided) under club supervision. After descending it solo, riders often cheer each other at the finish with hot chocolate or a local rye aperitif.
Insider Tip: Book Cresta Run rides at least weeks ahead. Sunday is practice day for club members; Monday public rides often fill up. Even if you don’t sled, the Cresta Museum in Celerina (open Dec–Apr) offers video and historic sled displays.
Olympic Bob Run: St. Moritz also boasts the oldest bobsled track in the world (opened 1904) – and the only natural-ice track still in use. It curls for 1,722 meters from the high chairlift station at Piz Corvatsch’s base. Visitors can take guest bobsled rides (seat next to a professional pilot, up to 135 km/h) or try the bobsled simulator. Helmets are provided; rides must be booked via the race office (operating hours on the Palace or Kulm activities desks). Children over 14 may ride with parents.
Cross-Country Skiing: The Upper Engadin is cross-country paradise. Over 200 km of groomed trails traverse through forests and frozen lakes around St. Moritz, Silvaplana, and Pontresina. Classic and skate-skiers share tracks, which are meticulously maintained; night tours under moonlight are a highlight. A favorite route is from St. Moritz via Sils to Maloja Pass (often 20–30 km one way), offering panoramic views. Rentals and lessons are plentiful, and even non-skiers enjoy hiking on snowshoes – marked trails around Suvretta House or via the old shipping road along Lake St. Moritz.
Ice Sports: The frozen lake becomes a playground. Public ice skating is free and popular; skate rentals stand by the Bohemian ice rink near the Palace. Amateur hockey matches and ice curling events are common (equipment rental available at the rink). If visiting during Amusements on the Lake (Jan–Feb), expect open-air skating shows and an ice disco. The St. Moritz-Stick-Trophy curling tournament invites teams each February, drawing spectators in fur caps.
Unique Ventures: St. Moritz’s equestrian culture extends to snow: skijöring (being towed on skis by a horse) is offered one day each winter by trained riders on Lake St. Moritz. Snowkiting on nearby frozen Lake Silvaplana (30 min drive) attracts adrenaline seekers using kite-pulled skis. And for a skyward thrill, tandem paragliding from Corvatsch provides eagle-eye vistas; winter flights include landing on the frozen lake. Helicopter rides from the heliport (5 min from town) can shuttle skiers to remote corners (book via private operators for glacier landing tours to Diavolezza or Bernina Pass).
Tobogganing & Hiking: A wide mountain trail stretches 4.2 km from Muottas Muragl (2,446 m) down to Punt Muragl; night tobogganing under floodlights is a special treat (free with certain ski passes). Another classic winter hike is the 6 km path from Cresta Run’s high point down to St. Moritz, combining woods and lake views. For soft terrain, snowshoe hikes to Piz Nair or on the plateau above La Punt offer silence broken only by wind and crunching snow.
Seasonal Arrangements: Note that many adventure activities (heliskiing, skijöring) run only on weekends or certain days during the high season. Always check schedules: e.g. Cresta (Wed–Sun), Bob Run (open with instructor daily).
In winter, Lake St. Moritz is St. Moritz’s communal heart. A sheet of natural ice hosts world-famous events that blend sport, society and spectacle.
Event Calendar (2025/2026):
Date(s) | Event | Description |
Jan 19–Feb 22, 2026 | Amusements on the Lake | Daily public ice activities: skating, hockey, ice-baths, music, food stalls (see program). |
Jan 23–25, 2026 | Snow Polo World Cup | Elite snow polo tournament on frozen lake; society gathering with fashion and champagne. |
Jan 23–25, 2026 | Engadin Art Talks (Zuoz) | Art and architecture forum (15th edition) featuring lectures and exhibits. |
Jan 30–31, 2026 | THE I.C.E. Concours d’Elegance | Classic car exhibition on ice; people’s choice awards. |
Feb 6–7, 2026 (Sat–Sun) | White Turf (Race Day 1) | Horse racing on ice; VIP tent; family day. |
Feb 13–14, 2026 (Sat–Sun) | White Turf (Race Day 2) | Continuation of frozen-lake races. |
Feb 20–21, 2026 (Sat–Sun) | White Turf (Race Day 3) | Final weekend of White Turf races; fashion and live music. |
Feb 11–14, 2026 | Snow Golf & Cricket on Ice | Specialty sports days (golf tournament, cricket series) during Lake Fest. |
Mar 19–21, 2026 | SunIce Festival | Three-day electronic music festival; 70+ artists on lake stages. |
Late Jan, dates TBA | Engadin Ice Hockey | International open-air hockey tournament. |
Planning Note: Ticket availability varies. Snow Polo and White Turf offer online advance tickets (often with dinner options). Amusements (public) require no entry fee. Check each event’s official site for dates and purchasing deadlines; many have earlybird rates.
St. Moritz may be known for sport, but culture thrives here too. The seasonal influx of visitors coincides with a modest but rich calendar of arts.
Cultural Insight: “High culture in Engadin often wears hiking boots,” says a curator at Segantini Museum. “Lectures can take place in a barn up a mountain, and artists are as likely to ski in as to arrive by car.”
Accommodations in St. Moritz are almost an attraction themselves. This is the realm of palatial hotels and discreet boutique hideaways. Each major property has a storied history and a stable of family-like staff.
Hotel Comparison: Below is a simplified snapshot of major hotels:
Hotel | Style/Heritage | Ski Access | Starting Rate* | Ski Pass Included? |
Badrutt’s Palace (Palace) | Belle Époque luxury | Onsite skating; corviglia bus | CHF 800/night | No (can be added) |
Kulm Hotel | Grand historic | Ski lift at door (Cresta) | CHF 700/night | Ski pass sometimes included in package |
Suvretta House | Alpine grand | Private lift to slopes | CHF 900/night | No |
Carlton Hotel | Art Deco luxury | 3-min walk to Corviglia cable | CHF 600/night | No |
Nira Alpina (boutique) | Modern spa hotel | Ski bus to Corviglia | CHF 450/night | No |
Chesa al Parc (B&B) | Traditional chalet | 5-min drive (shuttle) | CHF 400/night | No |
* Prices per night, midwinter, double room (2025 rates). |
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Local Perspective: One long-time guest notes, “A suite at Badrutt’s means breakfast with hot waffles brought table-side; at Kulm you’ll get a Kirsch toast at sunset. You pay for that history – but the snow and service feel unique to here.”
Ski Packages & Amenities: Many hotels bundle ski pass deals. For example, Badrutt’s offers “Palace Gold” packages with all-inclusive ski, spa, and half-board dining. Almost every luxury hotel provides free shuttle bus service to lifts and shops (in lieu of nearby parking). Concierge desks speak multiple languages and arrange everything from private ski lessons to ice-climbing outings.
Family-Friendly: Hotels like Kulm and Carlton have children’s clubs and playrooms. Some restaurants feature kids’ menus or supervised areas. The Engadin road system also has free ride-on toy trains for toddlers to move between hotels.
Booking Tip: Winter 2025/26 high season is busy. Aim to reserve rooms by September (especially if you want a lake-view suite or holiday dates). Weekdays can be slightly cheaper than weekends. If only visiting for a night or two (for events), consider splitting: e.g. one night in a grand palace, one night in a boutique hotel for variety.
A refined winter holiday balances action with rest. St. Moritz’s hotels understand this; they tout some of the Alps’ most luxurious spas.
In the evenings, after an active day, a quiet fire in a hotel lounge or a gentle yoga class (offered at many hotels) can be restorative. The narrative of a St. Moritz stay often goes: morning ski, mid-afternoon wellness, evening gourmet dinner, night-time spa dip or whirlpool under stars.
Winter style in St. Moritz is functional elegance. The main shopping street, Via Serlas, is lined with boutiques where cashmere mittens and designer ski wear mingle with luxury watches and jewelry. Swiss names like IWC, Omega, and Patek Philippe have flagship stores here, as do high-fashion houses (Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci) that cater to the town’s A-list visitors.
But it’s not all big brands. For local flair, look for shops selling Engadin woolen blankets, hand-carved wooden toys or artisanal chocolate (Confiserie Sturzenegger has century-old recipes). The weekly market in St. Moritz-Dorf (often Sat mornings) offers local soaps, cheeses, and hats.
Fashion Tip: Dress in layers – thermal base, insulated pants, stylish ski jacket – and pack a down jacket for evenings. Swiss outposts like Globus or Max Mara mix functional gear with after-ski fur-trimmed coats.
For winter accessories, consider Mammut or Kjus (Swiss alpine gear made here). Boutiques like John Taylor offer Swiss military watches (many visitors consider them authentic souvenirs).
St. Moritz’s flamboyant winter culture even extends to shop windows: expect displays of fur-trimmed parkas and ski boots next to wine racks. The vibe is aspirational yet relaxed; locals mix traditional Alpine jackets with jeans off-duty.
Turning this wealth of options into a trip requires some nuts-and-bolts guidance.
Sample Itineraries:
Itinerary Note: For non-skiers, swap ski time with alternate sports or leisurely pursuits (see Section 10).
Budgeting: Costs run high. A helpful rule-of-thumb breakdown (per person, midwinter):
Prices can spike during holidays (Christmas/New Year), so book early if traveling then. Lower season (April snow permitting) can drop to accessible range.
Booking Tips:
– Hotels: Reserve as early as possible; packages often appear on hotel websites each September for the following season. Flexible arrival dates mid-week can save ~15%.
– Restaurants: Top tables book weeks ahead; try to get confirmations by email. Walk-ins on busy evenings are unlikely. Some restaurants open only 5 days a week off-peak.
– Activities: Popular guided tours (heliski, ice driving, snowkiting) fill quickly. Sign up at hotel concierge or local outfitters before arrival. Cresta Run, Bob Run, and spa treatments all require in-person or phone reservations.
– Transport: If arriving by train from Zurich/Milan, a Swiss Travel Pass covers most trains/buses here and includes discounts on mountain lift tickets.
Weather & Packing: Winter sun can be deceivingly warm. Pack layers: thermal base layer, ski sweater, insulated jacket. Good waterproof boots are vital (snow is deep in Jan). Bring swimwear for hotel pools and spa. In hotel lobbies, upscale casual (no jeans at dinner) is common.
Planning Note: Check the weather a week before travel. Sudden mountain storms (Foehn winds) can change conditions. Many locals use the free “Sunnyside App” for live lift status and webcams.
The town’s glamour can be daunting, but St. Moritz has something for every kind of winter guest.
Non-Skiers: Far from a ski-only resort, St. Moritz offers complete itineraries sans skis. Take plenty of advantage of the frozen lake: skating, curling, or simply ice-walking in hiking boots (there is a cleared loop around the lake). Enjoy the Bernina Express (no ski needed) or the Panorama Restaurant ride on Corviglia – the cables run for sightseers too. Spas can fill ski time, or try winter gliding lessons on the lake’s ice course. Museums, chocolate-making classes, or even a drive up to Piz Nair cable car for alpine views require no skis. In the evening, concerts (classical music and pop are scheduled through winter) and high-cuisine dinners keep non-skiers busy and pampered.
Families: Engadin children often learn to ski at 3. In St. Moritz, kid-friendly options include: a toboggan park at Muottas Muragl, child-oriented ski lessons (multilingual instructors and children’s ski area at Corviglia), and snow playgrounds run by hotels. The Ice Tower funfair on the lake includes an ice slide. Restaurants and hotels commonly offer kids’ menus or early dining. For teenagers, a snowboarding lesson or a visit to the White Turf’s games tent can be memorable. Note age limits: Cresta sledding has an 18+ rule (some younger supervised rides exist), but bobsled and luge have 14+ options.
Couples: Romance permeates St. Moritz. Horse-drawn sleigh rides at dusk (hushed bells, blankets, hot tea) are quintessential. Candlelit dinners on an icy terrace, followed by midnight snowshoeing under stars, set the mood. Many hotels offer couples spa packages (shared massages in a private spa cabin). Cooler evenings, the resort’s cocktail lounges with grand pianos or fireplaces provide intimate spots.
Solo Travelers & Groups: Solo travelers find welcoming international bars (Palace; Edith’s Bar) and walking tours that span from history to modern art. Co-working cafes (with mountain views) cater to digital nomads. Groups (friend reunions or clubs) benefit from the town’s well-organized event services: group ski lessons, private ski guide bookings, or charter boat rides on frozen lakes. Social skiing (group off-piste tours) and nightclub events (SunIce Festival) cater to younger crowds.
As a winter enclave, St. Moritz faces unique sustainability challenges (snowmaking, energy use, waste in peak season). Recently, destination managers have begun initiatives:
Trust Note: Information in this guide is based on the 2025/26 season. Always verify event dates and pricing close to your travel date, as schedules and policies can change. For the latest details, consult official resources like Engadin St. Moritz Tourism or hotel websites.
Q: When is the best time to visit St. Moritz for winter activities?
A: Peak winter skiing and events occur between mid-January and late February. December also has good snow and Christmas markets, while March offers spring skiing on glaciers with fewer crowds. Avoid late-season spring break dates if you want quieter visits.
Q: How do I get to St. Moritz from Zurich or Milan?
A: Regular trains run from Zurich HB via Chur (about 3.5 hours to St. Moritz). From Milan, take the Bernina line via Tirano (4–5 hours with scenic views). Both routes are covered by the Swiss Travel Pass. Alternatively, airports at Zurich or Milan have hourly bus connections or private transfers to St. Moritz.
Q: Is the Bernina Express worth it in winter?
A: Absolutely. The Bernina Express in winter offers stunning ice and snow vistas (glacier passes, frozen waterfalls). Book tickets in advance as it’s popular year-round. Even in off-season (Nov and Apr), it’s a highlight of a Switzerland trip.
Q: How far in advance should I book St. Moritz hotels and restaurants?
A: For midwinter (Dec–Feb) stay, book hotels by September to get the best choice. Restaurants in St. Moritz often have only 30–50 seats; popular ones should be reserved at least 2–3 weeks before your visit, or upon booking your hotel.
Q: Does St. Moritz have Michelin-starred restaurants?
A: Yes. Notable ones include Le Restaurant (Badrutt’s Palace, 2 Michelin stars) and CheCha (1 star). Several others like Chesa Veglia (historic inn) also carry Michelin distinctions. Expect gourmet dining experiences.
Q: What is the Cresta Run and can tourists try it?
A: The Cresta Run is the world’s oldest natural ice skeleton track (opened 1885). Tourists can learn to toboggan head-first under expert supervision; beginner courses are offered most winter days. Advance booking is required. Spectators can also ride the toboggan chairs to watch.
Q: What is THE I.C.E. St. Moritz?
A: THE I.C.E. (International Concours d’Élégance) is a classic car show held on the frozen lake (in 2026: Jan 30–31). Owners showcase vintage Ferraris, Bentleys, etc. in organized demonstrations. It’s free to watch from the bank, usually coinciding with Amusements on the Lake festivities.
Q: Can I visit St. Moritz without skiing?
A: Certainly. Non-skiers can enjoy the frozen lake (skating, curling), spa days, mountain sled rides, and cultural outings (e.g., Segantini Museum). Many hotels and restaurants cater as usual regardless of ski interest. Special tours (carriage rides, snowshoe hikes) replace ski itineraries without losing the alpine feel.
