Koh Phi Phi

Nestled in the azure embrace of the Andaman Sea, the Phi Phi archipelago lies midway between Krabi’s limestone cliffs and the western coastline of Thailand. As part of Krabi Province, these six islands—administratively under Hat Noppharat Thara–Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park—occupy just over 12 square kilometres of land within a marine sanctuary spanning nearly 95,852 acres. Towering limestone outcrops, sheltered coves, and white sands define their topography, while beneath the surface an array of corals and marine creatures flourishes.

Phi Phi Don, the group’s largest island at 10.27 km², supports a year-round settlement of roughly 2,000–3,000 inhabitants, predominantly of Malay-Thai origin and more than 80 percent Muslim by heritage. Settled by fishing families in the late 1940s and once planted with coconut groves, it has evolved into the primary hub for residents and visitors alike. Its twin bays—Ton Sai and Loh Dalum—are linked by a slender sand isthmus, barely a few dozen metres wide, framed by hilly spurs rising to 186 metres. A paved network now weaves through both bays, reserved for pedestrians and push-cart transport; motor vehicles are limited to emergency use.

Just south of its bustling neighbour, Phi Phi Le spans only 1.27 km² but commands international attention. Navy-blue cliffs encircle Maya Bay, whose curved shoreline gained fame as the backdrop of a major motion picture in 2000. The film’s makers, drawn by a bestselling novel’s descriptions, were later accused of altering the beachscape and planting palms to match their vision—an assertion the production team disputes. Whatever the case, Maya Bay’s appearance on screen propelled the island into a vortex of tourism. Daily footfalls once exceeded 5,000, carried in by nearly 200 boats, until authorities closed the bay in June 2018 to allow natural regeneration. It reopened on 1 January 2022 under strict visitor limits.

Beyond the two primary isles, jagged limestone monoliths—Bida Nok, Bida Nai, and Ko Mai Phai (Bamboo Island)—emerge like sentinels from the sea. Mosquito Island (Ko Yung) and its neighbour Ko Pai likewise attract snorkellers to coral gardens brushing the surface at low tide. On Phi Phi Le itself, Viking Cave shelters swiftlets whose nests support a local industry; prehistoric paintings in Phaya Naak Cave hint at intermittent human presence.

A tropical monsoon climate prevails, divided into a dry season from January to April, when temperatures climb toward 37 °C, and a rainy season from May through December, when average precipitation reaches over 2,200 mm annually. July usually proves wettest, while February remains the driest.

Ferries, speedboats and traditional long-tail vessels connect the islands with Phuket, Krabi and Ko Lanta. Krabi International Airport lies closest, yet Phuket and Trang also serve as gateways—Trang’s winter boat link via Koh Lanta operates from November until March. A modern deep-water pier on Ton Sai Bay, completed in late 2009, now accommodates larger vessels, streamlining passenger and cargo traffic.

The Indian Ocean tsunami of 26 December 2004 wreaked havoc, nearly obliterating built infrastructure on Phi Phi Don. Reconstruction followed swiftly, guided by regulations restricting building heights to preserve panoramic views. In Ton Sai Bay, a memorial garden stands in quiet tribute to those lost, offering a place for reflection amid the island’s renewed vitality.

To address waste accumulation and environmental threats driven by rising visitor numbers—over 1,000 arrivals per day by 2016—authorities have imposed various levies. Since 1992, each tourist pays a nominal fee dedicated to refuse collection, water transport and beach security. A 20-baht charge introduced in 2014 funded monthly removal of tonnes of trash to the mainland, though wastewater treatment remained lacking: an estimated 83 percent of sewage once discharged untreated into the ocean. Campaigns led by environmental advocates, such as Dr Thon Thamrongnawasawat of Thailand’s National Reform Council, press for tourist caps to prevent irreversible damage.

Land-Based Attractions on Phi Phi Don:

• • Ton Sai Bay functions as the island’s commercial heart, home to guesthouses, dive shops and eateries. Though its shoreline has lost some of its former purity to development, the mingling of palms and limestone remains striking.
• • Loh Dalum Bay offers a gentle arc of sand framed by vivid waters; here, silent discos continue past bar-curfew at 01:00, and fire-dance performances enliven several beachfront venues nightly.
• • Viewpoint hikes ascend the eastern ridge to a terrace 186 metres above sea level, rewarding early-morning or sunset climbers with commanding vistas of the sandbar that threads the island.
• • Hin Khao Beach and Laem Thong at the northern tip provide quieter sands reachable only by foot, while Monkey Beach—accessible by kayak or long-tail craft—offers close-quarters encounters with macaques, although visitors are cautioned against feeding the animals.
• • Fire shows illuminate the evening at venues such as Carlito’s and the Tia & Millie Sunflower Bar.

Marine Pursuits:

• The surrounding waters teem with dive sites of varying challenge and allure:
• Anemone Reef: a pinnacled outcrop famed for clownfish and snapping shoals.
• Garang Heng: soft corals host resident leopard sharks.
• Hin Daeng/Muang: deep walls where manta rays and whale sharks may appear.
• King Cruiser Wreck: the remains of a passenger ferry, accompanied by dives at Shark Point and Anemone Reef.
• Ko Bida Nai/Nok: limestone islets alive with turtles and moray eels.

Multiple operators based in Ton Sai Bay and on Long Beach offer PADI and SSI courses, local two-tank outings, and excursions to more distant reefs. Snorkelling trips promise blacktip reef sharks at Shark Point, while the shallows around Bamboo and Mosquito Islands invite casual swimmers.

Day-charter sailboats and join-in catamarans depart from Krabi and Phi Phi for secluded anchorages. Sunset boat tours and guided snorkeling add variety to the seascape. On land, bird-watchers between January and April may spot rare species such as brown-winged kingfishers, finfoots and herons among mangrove fringes and coastal lagoons.

Phi Phi Don’s economy blends hospitality with traditional crafts. Most goods arrive by boat and command higher prices than on the mainland; yet a handful of workshops fashion souvenirs from local materials. Haggling persists as custom.

Culinary offerings lean on Southern Thai fare: spicy curries reflecting Malay and Indian influences, such as massaman, share menus with khanom jeen (rice noodles in fish-based sauces) and fragrant yellow-rice chicken. Beachfront cafés and family-run stalls balance heat with fresh seafood and tropical fruit.

As the sun dips beyond the horizon, Phi Phi Don’s reputation as a social hub takes hold. Bars close at 01:00 in accordance with local regulation, but elsewhere a silent disco roams Loh Dalum Bay until 04:00. Breakers Pub screens sporting events, while Reggae Bar stages mock muay thai matches for daring tourists. Slinkys and Ibiza Bar thrum with electronic beats; Rolling Stoned showcases live rock; Carlito’s exudes a laid-back atmosphere under woven lamps.

Present-day Phi Phi stands at a crossroads. Its natural endowments—limestone cliffs, sandy fronds and coral reefs—have drawn millions of visitors, yet this popularity exacts a toll. Waste management, sewage treatment and habitat protection remain pressing concerns as local authorities and environmentalists seek to balance livelihoods with the archipelago’s long-term viability. Visitor fees, park rangers, temporary closures and strict building codes all reflect an effort to reconcile human presence with ecological integrity.

The islands’ story continues to unfold: shaped by fishermen turned hoteliers, filmmakers and scientists, tsunami survivors and policymakers alike. In the interplay of limestone, water and human endeavor, Phi Phi remains both a place of raw beauty and complex challenge—its future hinging on choices made today.