Nem nướng Nha Trang (Nha Trang grilled pork skewers)

Rinse the glutinous rice and simmer covered with 400 ml water on low until very soft and porridge-like, 35–40 minutes. Stir occasionally; cool while preparing the pork.

Spread the pork shoulder and back fat in one layer; freeze until firm at the edges but not solid, about 35–40 minutes. Process with fish sauce, sugar, honey, garlic, tapioca starch and pepper until pale, cohesive and tacky. Keep cold.

With lightly oiled hands, divide into 12 portions and press each around a skewer into a short, even sausage. Cover and refrigerate 20 minutes.

Heat 5 ml oil in a saucepan. Cook the ground pork and minced garlic, breaking up the meat, until no pink remains. Stir in tomato paste, rice porridge, fish sauce and sugar. Simmer 10 minutes, then blend carefully until thick and smooth. Keep hot or cool promptly and refrigerate.

Heat a lightly oiled grill or grill pan to medium. Grill the skewers, turning every 2 minutes, until browned and cooked through, usually 10–14 minutes. Check that the centre of the thickest skewer reaches at least 71°C; timing varies. Transfer with clean tongs.

Heat 250 ml frying oil in a small pan. Fry 4 rice-paper sheets one at a time until crisp and lightly golden; drain and break into shards. Cook the vermicelli as directed on its packet, drain and cool. Arrange lettuce, herbs, cucumber, banana, pickles and noodles on a clean platter.

Serve 3 skewers per person with the 16 sheets and platter. Wrap sausage, noodles, herbs, vegetables and a crisp shard, then dip in warm sauce. Sprinkle peanuts over the sauce or pass separately.

Refrigerate cooked pork and sauce within 2 hours in shallow covered containers at or below 4°C. Use leftovers within 3 days; reheat once to 74°C throughout.