Gỏi sầu đâu cá sặc — An Giang neem-leaf salad with grilled dried gourami

Put the tamarind pulp in a heatproof bowl and cover with the boiling water. Leave for 10 minutes. Mash, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve; discard seeds and fibres. Stir the tamarind liquid with fish sauce and sugar until dissolved, then mix in the garlic and optional chili.

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Add the sầu đâu leaves and blanch for 20–30 seconds, just until wilted but still green. Drain and rinse briefly under cold running water to stop the cooking. Squeeze gently and dry very well.

Preheat a broiler or grill pan to medium-high. Grill the dried cá sặc, turning once, until hot through and lightly charred, about 4–6 minutes depending on thickness. Check the thickest part with a clean instant-read thermometer; it must reach at least 62.8°C / 145°F. Cool until easy to handle, then pull into bite-size flakes and remove any bones.

Wash and dry the cucumber, mango and rau răm. Cut the mango and cucumber into thin, even strips. Keep them dry so they do not dilute the dressing.

Taste the dressing. Dried fish and fish sauce vary in saltiness, so adjust with a little water or sugar if needed. Do not add salt before tasting.

In a large bowl, gently toss the blanched leaves, mango, cucumber and rau răm with enough dressing to coat lightly. Leave for 5 minutes so the flavours meet, without letting the leaves sit in excess liquid.

Fold in most of the grilled fish flakes. Arrange the salad on a platter and finish with the remaining fish and crushed peanuts. Serve promptly, with any extra dressing on the side.

Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours (within 1 hour if the room is above 32°C / 90°F). Keep covered and use within 2 days. During preparation, keep ready-to-eat salad separate from raw fish and unwashed produce.