How to Make Mersin-Style Tantuni
Mersin Tantunisi is not shaved döner and not a wrap hidden under heavy sauce. Its beef is cut into exceptionally small pieces, cooked through, then tossed on a very hot pan with measured water, fat and red pepper. Soft lavash picks up the concentrated pan juices before being filled with beef, sumac onion, parsley and tomato. Lemon and pickled peppers finish the experience at the table.
Trim sinew carefully and cut the cold beef into uniform five-millimetre pieces. Irregular large cubes stay chewy while the smallest dry out. Cook the meat first with part of the water until it is tender and has reabsorbed the liquid. This separate full-cooking stage makes the later high-heat pan work about browning and flavour rather than gambling that raw beef will cook safely during a few theatrical tosses.
Finish in small batches on the widest pan available. Add a portion of meat with oil, paprika, salt, pepper and splashes of water, tossing until the edges brown but a little seasoned juice remains. Food-grade cottonseed oil reflects the Mersin specification; high-oleic sunflower oil is the practical alternative. Press each lavash briefly over the juices so it becomes warm and flexible without turning wet.
Fill and roll immediately. Sumac softens the onion's sharpness, parsley brings freshness and firm tomato adds coolness without flooding the bread. Keep raw salad cold and separate from hot beef until service. Proper tantuni should taste concentrated and peppery yet clean, with tender tiny meat and a wrapper lightly stained by pan juices rather than saturated in grease.
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