Meskhetian Tutmaji Soup

Make the dough. Mix the flour with 5 g salt. Add 200 ml cold water and knead for 8–10 minutes, until firm, smooth and elastic. Cover and rest for 20 minutes.

Shape two kinds of dough. Divide the rested dough into two portions, about two-thirds and one-third. Roll the larger piece thin, about 2 mm, and cut into ribbons about 5 mm wide and 4 cm long. Roll the smaller piece into ropes about 1.5 cm thick and cut into pieces about 1.5 cm long.

Brown the pillows. Melt 30 g clarified butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the small dough pieces in one layer and turn as needed for about 4–5 minutes, until pale golden. Transfer to a plate; they will finish cooking in the soup.

Soften the onion. Add the remaining 15 g clarified butter to the pan. Add the diced onion and cook over medium-low heat for 8–10 minutes, until soft and translucent without deep browning.

Warm the broth. In a large pot, whisk the cold matsoni with 1 litre water and 4 g salt. Warm gradually over medium-low heat, stirring, until hot and steaming. Do not bring to a hard boil.

Cook the dough in the soup. Add the dough ribbons, browned pillows and softened onion with its butter. Stir gently and maintain a gentle simmer for about 8–10 minutes, until both dough forms are tender through the centre with no raw floury texture. Stir from time to time to prevent sticking.

Serve and store. Ladle into four bowls and serve hot. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours at or below 4°C; use within 3–4 days. Reheat the soup until steaming and at least 74°C, checked with a food thermometer.