Pandebono — Valle del Cauca’s cassava-and-cheese rolls

Prepare the oven and tray Heat the oven to 190°C and line a baking tray with parchment. Set a rack in the centre. Keep the cheeses and eggs refrigerated until you begin mixing, and wash your hands and work surface.

Break up the cheeses Grate the costeño cheese finely and crumble or grate the cuajada until there are no large lumps. If either cheese is very wet, drain it well before weighing; excess whey can make the dough sticky and flat.

Combine the dough Put the maize dough and sour cassava starch in a large bowl. Add both cheeses and the beaten eggs. Knead with clean hands until the ingredients form a uniform, soft dough with no dry starch at the bottom of the bowl.

Check the texture Pinch off a small piece and roll it between your palms. It should form a smooth ball that holds its shape, with at most fine surface lines. If it feels tacky, knead it a little longer; do not dust it with extra starch before the cheeses have been fully worked in.

Shape the rolls Divide the dough into 18 even pieces and roll each into a ball about the size of a small plum. Set them on the tray with space between them. Press a shallow dimple in the top if you like; it is a common shape, but not required.

Bake until puffed Bake for 15–20 minutes, checking from the earlier end. The rolls should rise and become lightly golden, with no wet shine or raw-looking seam. Check a larger roll with a thin thermometer; its centre must reach 71°C. If it has colour but is below that temperature, return the tray to the oven and check again shortly.

Cool briefly and serve Leave the rolls on the tray for 5 minutes, then move them to a rack. Serve warm while the crust is delicate and the centre is springy. Avoid stacking them while hot, since trapped steam softens the exterior.