Ultraviolet in Shanghai is no ordinary restaurant. It is widely regarded as the world’s first multi-sensory dining experience, where a ten-seat table becomes a stage for high-tech spectacle. Conceived by French chef Paul Pairet (working with partner JC Chiang’s VOL Group), Ultraviolet opened in May 2012 in a secret industrial location. Here, diners embark on a 20-course “Avant-Garde” menu, each dish served under its own tailor-made environment of lights, sounds, scents and visuals. In effect, the meal plays out like theater: the blank white room transforms into forests, oceans, or cityscapes to complement every bite. Over its thirteen-year run, Ultraviolet earned three Michelin stars and countless accolades for redefining fine dining. This guide explores Chef Pairet’s vision, the restaurant’s cutting-edge technology, the guest journey, menus and dishes, and practical details – weaving firsthand observation with expert insight into Shanghai’s most remarkable table.
Ultraviolet’s remarkable concept – dining as a fully immersive experience – has changed how people think about food. It shows how cuisine can engage all five senses and the imagination, not just taste, creating memories as lasting as the flavors. As one critic noted, “Each meal is meticulously choreographed, as sights, scents and sounds coordinate to create an environment dedicated to each dish.” The result is a meal that feels like a journey through a sensory story. Ultraviolet closed its doors in early 2025 after 13 years (its final service was March 29, 2025), but its legacy endures.
Paul Pairet’s background foreshadowed Ultraviolet’s experimental nature. Born in Perpignan, France in 1964, he combined early scientific studies with formal culinary training at a hotel school in Toulouse. As a student he was fascinated by chemical reactions in cooking, inspiring him to think of food in unconventional ways. After a stint helming Café Mosaic in Paris in 1998, Pairet spent over a decade cooking across Asia. He worked in Istanbul, Hong Kong, Sydney and Jakarta, where Western and Eastern flavors merged to shape his style. By 2005 he settled in Shanghai, opening the modern bistro Mr & Mrs Bund in 2009 to critical acclaim. Amid this success, Pairet carried a far-out idea: a high-tech dining capsule of his own design.
The notion of Ultraviolet first took shape in 1996. Pairet envisioned a restaurant that broke the mould of à la carte dining – a fixed-menu theater for ten guests, with total control over timing and presentation. He spent years refining the concept. At the 2010 Omnivore Food Festival in France he publicly proposed “a restaurant of one table” using multi-sensory technology. Development took nearly 15 years – requiring investor support and advanced engineering – but the core idea never wavered.
The right collaborator was Shanghai entrepreneur JC Chiang, chairman of the VOL Group. Chiang, known for luxury hotels and dining projects, agreed to finance Pairet’s vision. Together they assembled a specialist team: designers, IT engineers, fragrance experts and sound artists. This was truly Pairet’s “project of my life.” As Pairet himself said after Ultraviolet opened, he had “come close to opening this small table project three times” before 2012, but with all elements finally in place everything was “pushed to the extreme”.
Historical Note: Ultraviolet’s concept was born in 1996, but only came to life in 2012 after years of development. In October 2014 it became the first restaurant from mainland China admitted to the prestigious Les Grandes Tables du Monde.
By 2012, Pairet stood poised to deliver on his dream: a single 10-seat table where he could serve an elaborate tasting menu exactly at peak freshness. Freed from conventional constraints of a busy kitchen, he could choreograph every dish down to the last detail. This blend of science (timing, technology) and art became Ultraviolet’s signature.
Central to Ultraviolet is Pairet’s theory of “psycho-taste.” Unlike ordinary restaurants, Ultraviolet treats flavor as a psychological experience as much as a physical one. In Pairet’s words, psycho-taste is everything about the taste except the taste itself – it is expectation, memory and emotion. The idea is that a diner’s brain comes pre-loaded with associations for every flavor. Seeing a ripe tomato, for instance, immediately conjures an expectation of sweetness; smelling incense can signal a sacred experience. These subconscious primings can alter the perception of the food.
Ultraviolet deliberately leverages this mind–palate link. Before the first bite is served, guests have already tasted much of the meal in their minds. The restaurant constantly “primes” their expectations: the décor, lighting, music and even scents set a scene. If an “ocean” course is coming, the room might smell of salty sea breeze and echo with crashing waves; if the next course is smoky and woodsy, fog machines and earthy scents evoke a forest. Paul Pairet explains, “I wanted to deliver my own best; I needed to find a way to speak. I had in mind to make something small, very personal… a revival of the 17th century table d’hôte” – essentially using context to trigger emotion.
Food scientists recognize that the brain integrates all senses to create flavor. This field of neurogastronomy shows memory and mood powerfully influence taste. Ultraviolet’s approach builds on those principles: each dish carries a “scenario” that can make a tasting sweeter, richer or more surprising than it would be in isolation. As Pairet puts it, “imagined taste is generally better than reality” when context is perfect. For example, Ultraviolet’s “Ostie” starter – a frozen apple‐wasabi sorbet shaped like a wafer – arrives under the sound of church bells and drifting incense scent, making the bite feel like a ceremonial awakening. These sensory cues heighten the palate’s perception of each course.
Local Perspective: “Paul Pairet seeks to alter perceptions, catering for the mind as much as the taste buds,” observes a Shanghai food critic. In other words, at Ultraviolet the brain is the final ingredient on the plate.
Ultraviolet’s dining room is deliberately austere – bare white walls, one long table, minimal furniture. The lack of décor is no accident: it provides a blank canvas for projection and sound. In this space, “the room’s blank décor hides multiple LED screens, ready to fill the space with surreal, psychedelic imagery”. Behind the scenes, an astounding array of technology makes the illusions possible.
In total, the installation includes tens of kilometers of cabling, dozens of speakers and projectors, and custom scent diffusers. For example, one report notes 13,850 metres of cables and wires, 454 metres of AC pipework, 56 speakers and 7 high-definition projectors. Another description lists 56 Sennheiser speakers, 7 projectors and even 10 video screens creating a full 360° HD view. There are dry scent projectors (from a French perfumery), multichannel surround-sound systems, and stage and UV lighting rigs. Even the kitchen is outfitted with cutting-edge gear: one account highlights a custom heavy-duty Molteni cooker and thousands of custom plates and glassware ordered for the restaurant. In short, the entire space functions like a high-tech theatre stage.
A dedicated “control room” runs everything live. Multiple video monitors show each course in progress, while engineers cue changes in real time. According to a feature, guests in the kitchen could see a wall of screens and a window to the dining room – resembling a movie set more than a restaurant. Each time a server walks out with a course, the tech team switches soundtracks, lighting colors and visuals to match. For a seafood course, the speakers might pulse with ocean sounds while projectors display crashing waves and a blue-lit tide washes over the walls. When a rustic forest dish arrives, fog sprays and the smell of damp moss fill the air, with tree-lined imagery enveloping the room.
Insider Tip: Ultraviolet’s finale is a feast of sensory hospitality. After dessert, all guests are invited into the kitchen for coffee and a final surprise. You’ll meet Chef Pairet and the team – and even make your own nitrogen-chilled candies under their guidance. It’s an unforgettable coda to the evening.
Despite the wizardry, Ultraviolet stresses that food quality remains paramount. The technology is there to support the cuisine, not distract from it. As a Michelin reviewer noted, “the focus of Ultraviolet remained on the food, with the mood of the room continuously adjusted to highlight or challenge taste, rather than to distract”. In practice, the high-tech setup serves one purpose: to make each bite as vivid in the mind as possible.
For guests, the Ultraviolet evening itself is as orchestrated as the courses. Typically one week ahead, the restaurant emails diners with meeting instructions. As many reports agree, you gather at 6:30pm at Pairet’s other Shanghai venue, the French bistro Mr & Mrs Bund. There, at a plush corner table with champagne, a host briefs you on the adventure to come.
At exactly 7pm a white shuttle (often described as a minivan or coach) arrives. The tinted windows ensure nothing is seen as it weaves through city streets. Riders settle in for a short ride to an unknown destination. The tension builds: strangers become dinner companions as music plays and a sense of mystery grows. Upon arrival – down a dim alley in an industrial district – the van stops at a nondescript loading dock. Guests step out into an unmarked warehouse.
Inside, one long wooden table and ten chairs are set in a bare, dimly lit room. A large metal door closes behind you with a click; you are now on Pairet’s stage. For the first minute or two, the setting feels like a plain workshop – no decorations, no windows, just white walls. Then, dramatically, names appear projected onto the table from above. A DJ blares a few bars of an oriental melody, signaling the adventure’s start. At that moment – as Pairet intended – nerves give way to curiosity.
From here, the evening unfolds like a three-act performance. All diners face the same direction; everyone eats together as a single group. A conductor-like manager (often called a “tour guide”) in themed uniform will serve each course, explaining the concept briefly. After each course, the room “scene” morphs for the next act. For instance, one meal’s sequence included seeing the table transform into a galaxy of stars, followed by marching into a noodle shop in Tokyo, then a psychedelic 60s time-travel scene. Over four hours, guests might imagine themselves floating in space for one dish and picnicking in the Alps for another. The transitions – lights dimming, images swiveling, sounds building – work “like a charm,” in one diner’s words, to convince the brain that you’ve moved to a new place.
Insider Tip: During the meal, be sure to look for little surprises. For example, in one course ten glowing snowballs floated by overhead, or a live violinist might appear during dessert. These planned theatrical touches – like actors appearing in costume – add layers to the experience, so try to stay alert to all sensory details.
About halfway through, a pivotal moment arrives. The menu sequence briefly “splits”: Pairet allows guests a choice for one dish. At that point the guides present two plated options side-by-side – each under a different projected backdrop – and each guest is asked to pick one. It’s the only point in the night with any decision; otherwise all guests share the same dishes in the same order. This pause heightens the drama before the final stretch.
Finally, the meal descends from climax to conclusion. Smaller dessert-like courses and cocktails wind down the evening. The “Finale” often involves a playful coffee break: lights come up and Chef Pairet himself appears, welcoming everyone to a small bar counter. He mingles with diners as they sip coffee and homemade petit-fours – a rare chance to interact with the mastermind. Before leaving, each guest receives a souvenir menu listing every course, theme and soundtrack of the night.
Eating at Ultraviolet is a communal journey, not an à la carte outing. Every stranger at the table becomes a companion on this shared adventure. As one reviewer noted, “All of the guests sit together, and dinner unfolds as a sensory play choreographed by Chef Paul Pairet”. The camaraderie – applauding each reveal, comparing reactions – is part of the magic. By the night’s end, ten people who met in a van have shared an intensely personal, almost cinematic experience.
Food is the foundation of Ultraviolet’s show. Each year the kitchen launches an entirely new 20-course tasting menu (code-named UVA, UVB, UVC, UVD, etc.), which stays in service for several years. These menus, often four years in development, feature wildly creative dishes paired with the sensory theatrics. Courses arrive in a deliberate order: they start as small amuse-bouches, build in richness and drama to a crescendo, then taper off with light digestifs and sweets. Pairet calls this an “uphill” to a single choice moment, followed by a “downhill” procession to finish.
Each dish itself is inventive. For example, one iconic starter is “Ostie” – a quenelle of apple-pear juice and wasabi sorbet, frozen into a wafer shape. It arrives under flickering candles and swinging church-bell sounds, scented with frankincense, making diners feel as if they’ve entered a midnight chapel. Another is “Foie Gras Can’t Quit”, served as a crispy “cigarette” of foie gras mousse. Its presentation evokes an old Marlboro ad (diner smokers even light it like a cigar) while a Morricone western theme plays.
The showpieces often demonstrate Pairet’s playful “what you see vs. what you taste” tricks. The famous “Tomato, Mozza and Again” is actually a pair of bowls that look identical (red tomato and mozzarella spheres), but one is savory and the other sweet – swapping your preconceptions. This course, described by critics, forces diners to question assumptions: two dishes seem the same but are not. Similarly, “Egg Gruyère Raviolo” looks like a simple pasta dish but hides rich truffles and asparagus inside a delicate shell.
The menu changes roughly every few years. The original UVA menu (2012) set the tone; UVB (2013) and UVC (2016) expanded the technical fantasies, and the latest UVD (2022) took four years to evolve. Throughout, Pairet’s French culinary roots shine. He uses luxury ingredients – foie gras, truffles, live caviar, wagyu beef – but always with a twist. For instance, one seafood course has diners shucking their own oysters that contain frozen saltwater pearls; every bite evokes the sea through actual ocean spray and salt-tinged ice.
Pairet’s signature courses often come with their own scene: the “Truffle Burnt Soup Bread,” for example, is served with fog machines and damp-forest visuals so diners feel like truffle hunting in the woods.
Drink pairings are as elaborate as the food. Sommelier-curated wine flights (and custom cocktails or tea) arrive with each course. Because all ten diners follow the same menu, the pairings can be very intricate – ranging from a crisp Champagne with amuse-bouches to ice wines with dessert. The cost of the set menu always includes these beverages. According to one insider, every drink poured at Ultraviolet is “stunning”, including house-made sodas, botanical spritzers and rare vintages from around the globe.
Signature finale desserts include playful nods to childhood and nostalgia. In one scene, diners snack on rainbow-colored homemade gummy bears while the servers (wearing black gloves and UV uniforms) dance around the table and even ride a tricycle through the room. When it’s time to leave, applause and confetti are not uncommon. As one reviewer put it, “as guests eat melted gummy bears, the Michelin-star chef and his servers do laps around the table” – a theatrical send-off to an immersive meal.
In sum, the culinary art of Ultraviolet blends literal high-end cooking with mise-en-scène. Every bite is part of a larger sensory narrative. Importantly, Pairet insists that the food itself is never gimmicky – each dish is grounded in flavor. He once said, “the dishes’ conception is frequently playful and witty, their presentation theatrical in the extreme” – but the ingredients and taste must stand on their own. At this table, great cuisine and cutting-edge technology serve a single purpose: to elevate each other.
Ultraviolet’s reputation was cemented by a cascade of awards. Three years after opening, it earned its first two Michelin stars in Shanghai’s inaugural guide. In 2017, it was promoted to three stars, the guide’s highest mark. It retained this top rating each year thereafter. Chef Pairet’s team rejoiced at the 8th consecutive three-star win in late 2024 – although by then they had quietly announced the restaurant would soon pause operations.
On the global stage, Ultraviolet climbed dining rankings: it peaked at No. 24 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2015, and was ranked No. 3 in Asia’s 50 Best that same year. Asia’s critics also lauded Ultraviolet: it made Travel + Leisure’s “World’s Greatest Places” list in 2018 and earned Condé Nast Traveller’s Gold Standard in 2013. In October 2014 it was named a member of Les Grandes Tables du Monde – the first-ever Chinese restaurant in that exclusive French organization. Chef Pairet himself collected honors, including Asia’s 50 Best Lifetime Achievement (2016) and Restaurantier of the Year from Les Grandes Tables (2018).
Beyond prizes, Ultraviolet’s influence rippled through the industry. It effectively launched a new genre of dining. As one report noted, “the Telegraph dubbed it ‘the world’s most innovative restaurant’”. Chefs around the world took notice of the fusion of entertainment and cuisine. For example, Spanish chef Paco Roncero visited Ultraviolet in 2013 and two years later opened Sublimotion in Ibiza – an immersive show-dining project that closely mirrors Ultraviolet’s concept. (Sublimotion seats 12 and charges about €1,500 per head.) Other high-end restaurants, like Chicago’s Alinea or Barcelona’s Enigma, experimented with ambient effects or narrative, but none matched Ultraviolet’s level of total immersion at the time.
Historical Note: Ultraviolet opened in 2012 as one of Shanghai’s most avant-garde restaurants. By 2015 it had earned 3 Michelin stars and global fame, and by 2017 shared Shanghai’s top Michelin rank with only one other restaurant.
Its impact extends beyond the dining world: Ultraviolet anticipated today’s “experience economy,” where luxury consumers increasingly pay for memories and stories, not just goods. Pairet himself has said that at Ultraviolet “we prepare and control the entire context of the dish” so that the atmosphere mirrors the chef’s vision. In this way, Ultraviolet became a case study for combining hospitality with performance art. In culinary textbooks and conference talks, Ultraviolet is often cited as an example of multisensory design in restaurants – proof that fine dining can be theatrical.
Reservations: Bookings are essential and open months in advance. As one insider notes, dinners are usually booked up about three months ahead. The restaurant’s website operates an online calendar – when dates release (often midnight Shanghai time), 50% deposits are required immediately per person. In practice, a diner in 2023 might select a date and confirm with a wire transfer or credit card. If fully booked, email alerts and concierge services are useful for trying again. Because the seating is limited to ten, spots vanish quickly during release times.
Practical Information: Ultraviolet’s dining room seats only 10 guests per night. Couples or groups book the table in advance, confirming with a sizeable deposit. As of 2024, a full 20-course dinner with beverage pairing cost roughly ¥6,800 (~US$1,000) per person, all-inclusive. Taxes and service are built in. Dinner starts around 7:30pm and lasts about four hours; reservations run Tuesday through Saturday evenings.
Cost: Expect ultra-premium pricing. In its early years (2012–2015) the set menu, including drinks, was about RMB 2,500–3,000 per person. Over time prices rose (for example, to ~¥6,800 by 2024). Though steep, each meal includes all food and drink – from custom cocktails to exotic wine pairings. One reviewer noted that the price “included all drink pairings, as well as the service charge for the night!”. Given the small scale and custom production, Pairet estimated the break-even price was around ¥5,000–6,000 per guest. Many past diners concur that the extravaganza is worth the premium (indeed, one wrote “I had myself researched a similar restaurant… it was worth every penny”).
Timing: On dinner nights, guests typically gather at 6:30pm at Mr & Mrs Bund. The hotel-style lobby at Bund No. 18 serves as the staging area. A valet host welcomes you, checks your reservation, and offers a pre-dinner drink. The shuttle departs promptly at 7:00pm, arriving back at the Bund roughly 11:00pm. The meal itself goes from about 7:30 until 10:30–11:00pm. If booking for a special date (birthday, anniversary), mention it – the staff often adds a surprise dessert or toast.
Dress Code: There is no strict uniform, but casual-elegant attire is recommended. Past guides suggest smart wear (no shorts or flip-flops) to match the upscale atmosphere. The staff change costumes between courses, so minimal attire guidelines apply to diners. In practice, guests have worn anything from suits to nice sweaters; the key is to be neat and comfortable for four hours at the table.
Dietary Restrictions: The kitchen can accommodate many common requests, but advanced notice is essential. The standard 20-course menu contains meat, seafood and alcohol in sauces, so a fully vegetarian meal requires substitute dishes. The chefs will adapt much of the menu, but Pairet’s team notes that Ultraviolet’s ethos is not primarily vegetarian. Allergy concerns can usually be managed (for example, alternative nuts or gluten-free prep), but because so many courses are interconnected to the experience, extreme diets (strict vegan, etc.) should be discussed in advance. Drinks pairings can be non-alcoholic if requested.
Children: Ultraviolet is designed for adults and mature teens. The intense atmosphere, loose dim lighting, and immersive theatrics are generally suited for guests 12 years and older. (During its run, the restaurant did not encourage children under 12, as the four-hour fixed sequence can be challenging for young kids.) Children above 12 must be reserved their own seats and agree to follow the meal like adults.
Photography & Phones: Guests are free to take photos discretely – but flash or video is discouraged. The general rule (and polite custom) has been to capture a few stills quickly between courses, then focus on the show. The dining room is kept in near darkness, so any light (flash or phone screen) is very disruptive. In fact, there is no cell-phone signal inside the thickly insulated dining space. Most guests stow their phones or use them only during breaks. Expect to unplug: the menu reads like the program of a play, not a social-media event.
Practical Information: Be sure to bring your passport and confirmation email. The address is secret – once on the shuttle, relax and enjoy being “lost” in Shanghai. As a courtesy, turn off your phone ringer and keep cameras muted. The restaurant atmosphere is mid-quiet stage, so the lights-out, sound-loud policy is strictly enforced. Credit cards are accepted at booking; no cash is needed on the night itself.
Parking & Access: There is none for guests – driving directly to the door is not possible. As noted, all guests arrive by shuttle. If you have mobility concerns, inform the staff when booking; they will arrange assistance. The stair-free warehouse dining room is one level down from street, reachable by a freight-style lift (no steps once inside).
Closing: In November 2024, Ultraviolet’s team announced that the restaurant would be “put on hold indefinitely” in 2025 due to surrounding construction and a shift in business model. The news came after Pairet accepted Shanghai’s 2025 Michelin stars, saying in a statement that it was “the right time” to wind down public service. The exact last date was set as March 29, 2025. After that date, the site’s online booking system was closed.
As of spring 2025, the final curtain was essentially drawn. The official site and social media announced the closure. Chef Pairet said that the restaurant’s future might shift to industry events or private functions, but no public reopening date was set. In other words, Ultraviolet’s run was concluded “as of [March] 2025”. Many loyal fans and travel writers lamented the end of an era, and the restaurant’s long history is now complete.
Planning Note: Ultraviolet served its last public dinner on March 29, 2025. Reservations ceased thereafter. Those who still hope to experience Pairet’s avant-garde vision can visit his other Shanghai venues (Mr & Mrs Bund and Polux) or watch for any future pop-ups or workshops by the team.
Legacy: Even closed to diners, Ultraviolet has left an indelible mark on gastronomy. It transformed the skyline of what a restaurant could be – a blending of cuisine with cinema-quality production. Many postmortems in culinary media point out that Pairet’s “restaurant turned into a studio” showcased a new category of entertainment dining. Ultraviolet’s success inspired others to try multisensory approaches. In addition to Sublimotion, chefs like Heston Blumenthal, Grant Achatz and others have created theatrical elements (smoking cones, interactive dishes), but none had quite the scale of Ultraviolet.
In Shanghai and beyond, the name Ultraviolet remains shorthand for the pinnacle of immersive dining. It’s studied in hospitality courses as a case study in experiential design. In interviews, Pairet reflects that the project taught the industry a lesson: “This is a moment where time stops…” for the diner. Ultimately, Ultraviolet stands as a testament to bold innovation – proof that a restaurant can be both a laboratory and a playground for the senses.
Ultraviolet remains unique, but a few peers exist. The most direct sibling is Sublimotion in Ibiza (opened 2014 by Paco Roncero). Sublimotion seats 12 and charges about €1,500 per person. Its show-dinner format closely mirrors Ultraviolet’s technology – in fact, Roncero visited Pairet’s Shanghai restaurant before designing his own. That creator notes he “did not intend to copy” Pairet, but outside observers see Sublimotion as a deliberate homage. Many themes at Sublimotion (dancing chefs, dynamic sets, multi-sensory effects) resemble UV’s approach.
Other upscale restaurants offer sensory flair, but with different focus. Chicago’s Alinea (Grant Achatz) uses molecular techniques and occasional music cues, but lacks full-stage changeovers. Barcelona’s El Celler de Can Roca might pair music with dishes, yet does not project films or scents. Dans le Noir (various cities) simulates darkness to heighten taste, which is a smaller-scale idea. None matches Ultraviolet’s combination of ten seats, one table, and a dozen synchronized environmental effects.
In a comparative sense, Ultraviolet set the benchmark:
Restaurant | Location | Opened | Seats | Approx. Price |
Ultraviolet | Shanghai, China | 2012 | 10 | ~¥6,000–8,000/person (incl. drinks) |
Sublimotion | Ibiza, Spain | 2014 | 12 | ~€1,500/person (drinks incl.) |
Alinea | Chicago, USA | 2005 | 15 | ~$295/person (tasting menu) |
El Celler de Can Roca | Girona, Spain | 1986 | 14 | ~€275/person |
Dans le Noir | Multiple | 1998 | varies | ~$60/person (blind dining) |
Ultraviolet stands out for its whole-environment integration. It truly pioneered “figurativer avant-garde” dining – a term Pairet uses – by making every element in the restaurant part of the meal.
Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet was a landmark in culinary history. By uniting a 20-course meal with cinema‑level production, it proved that “twenty courses, ten seats, five senses” could become one unforgettable experience. Pairet demonstrated that the context of dining – the sight, sound and emotion around the food – can be as essential to flavor as the ingredients themselves. His phrase holds true: “Food is ultimately about emotion, and emotion goes beyond taste.” In creating Ultraviolet, Pairet didn’t just serve dinner; he served wonder and nostalgia and imagination.
Even though the chapter is closed, Ultraviolet’s influence lives on. It inspired chefs to think bigger, blurring lines between restaurant and theatre. It showed diners a new way to eat with their eyes and ears as well as their tongue. As we move forward, the idea of multi-sensory dining has a permanent place in the “experience economy.” For travelers and food lovers, Ultraviolet remains a touchstone – a reminder that the next frontier of dining might just lie in the spaces between sense and mind.
