Vatnajökull reigns as Iceland’s (and, by many counts, Europe’s) largest glacier. This vast ice cap covers roughly 8,100 km² – about 8% of the country – and contains around 3,000 km³ of ice. Its average thickness is 400–500 m, reaching up to ~1,000 m in places. Locally called Vatna Glacier (Icelandic vatn “water”) for the meltwater it stores, Vatnajökull’s name literally means “glacier of waters”. Its scale is astonishing: dozens of mountain peaks and eight subglacial volcanoes lie hidden beneath the ice. Since 2008 the glacier (and surrounding landscape) has formed Vatnajökull National Park, and in 2019 UNESCO inscribed it as part of the “Vatnajökull – Dynamic Nature of Fire and Ice” World Heritage Site.
Quick Facts:
– Area: ~8,100 km² (≈8% of Iceland)
– Volume: ≈3,000 km³ (four times that of Denmark)
– Thickness: avg. ~450 m (max ~1,000 m)
– Highest elevation: 2,110 m (Hvannadalshnjúkur peak)
– Volcanoes: 8 major subglacial systems (Grímsvötn, Bárðarbunga, Öræfajökull, etc.)
– National Park: Established 2008 (covers ~14,967 km²)
– UNESCO: World Heritage Site (inscribed July 2019)
Vatnajökull (pronounced “VAT-nah-YEUH-kootl”) is the immense ice cap in southeast Iceland. It spans roughly 8,000–8,300 km² – making it Iceland’s largest glacier and often cited as Europe’s largest outside the polar Arctic. The ice is relatively “young” in geological terms (a few thousand years old). Most of the glacier survives summer: about 60% of its surface lies above the equilibrium line (the summer snowline), so only the highest rims melt completely each summer. Underneath Vatnajökull rise hundreds of nunataks (exposed peaks) and eight central volcanoes. The ice cap flows outward from a plateau (600–800 m elevation) toward all sides, feeding dozens of outlet glaciers and glacial rivers.
A key point of confusion: Vatnajökull is sometimes called “Europe’s largest glacier”, but this usually excludes Arctic Russia. (Russia’s Novaya Zemlya has the 20,500 km² Severny Island ice cap, which is technically larger but lies in the high Arctic.) Vatnajökull remains by far the biggest on the European mainland.
| Statistic | Value |
|---|---|
| Area | ~8,100 km² (≈8% of Iceland) |
| Volume | ~3,000 km³ |
| Average Thickness | ~450 m |
| Maximum Thickness | ~950–1,000 m |
| Extent | ~100 km (E–W) × 100 km (N–S) |
| Peak Elevation | 2,110 m (Hvannadalshnjúkur) |
| % of Iceland’s Area | ~8% |
| Outlet Glaciers | ~30 major glacier tongues |
| National Park | Vatnajökull National Park (est. 2008) |
| UNESCO Status | World Heritage Site — Fire & Ice (July 2019) |
Vatnajökull is indeed Iceland’s largest glacier by area and volume. By many definitions it is also Europe’s largest glacier. UNESCO notes that Vatnajökull “is the largest glacier in Europe”. In area (8,000+ km²) it far exceeds any glacier on the European mainland – for comparison, Switzerland’s Aletsch Glacier covers only ~79 km². Some debate arises only if one includes Arctic Russian ice caps: Novaya Zemlya’s Severny Island ice cap (~20,500 km²) is technically bigger, but it lies well north of Iceland. Excluding the Arctic, Vatnajökull holds the title of Europe’s largest ice cap.
Vatnajökull dominates southeastern Iceland. It spans roughly 64.0–65.5° N, 16.0–18.5° W – an area stretching from the central highlands down to near the coast. To the south it abuts the coastal lowlands and the Ring Road (Route 1); to the east it reaches toward the town of Höfn and the Ocean; to the west it approaches Skaftafell; and to the north it tapers into the uninhabited highland plateau (the Sprengisandur). The glacier’s meltwater feeds several major rivers (e.g. Skeiðará, Jökulsá), forming vast black-sand plains and lagoons (see below). Visitors typically reach Vatnajökull via the Ring Road: from Reykjavík the drive to the Skaftafell/Vatnajökull area is ~320 km (~4–5 hours) through scenic south-coast towns and waterfalls. The national park encompasses the entire ice cap and surrounding zones – on the map it appears as a huge white/green patch spanning south-central Iceland.
Map & Access: Vatnajökull is effectively bisected by the Ring Road at its southern edge. Key access points are the Skaftafell visitor center (west side), Jökulsárlón lagoon / Breiðamerkurjökull (east side), and F‑roads into the central plateau for 4×4 vehicles (north side). Most paved roads end at the ice margin; interior travel requires specialized tours. There are no towns on the glacier itself – the nearest villages are Höfn (east) and Kirkjubæjarklaustur (west).
Vatnajökull grew from active glaciation in the Holocene. Unlike many alpine glaciers, it is not a relic of the last Ice Age: recent research indicates its thick ice formed only about 2,500 years ago. The ice sits on a highland plateau (600–800 m elevation on average) that tilts gently toward the coast. Around the ice cap’s margins the terrain drops to near sea level, while at the center lies ice fields over subglacial bedrock. Because Iceland lies on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge with high precipitation and geothermal heat, Vatnajökull is very dynamic.
The glacier’s internal structure features layers of compacted snow (firn) turning to ice, with some bubbly glacial ice. Roughly 60% of the surface remains snow-covered year-round (above the summer snowline, or equilibrium line, roughly 1,100–1,300 m). The enormous weight of the ice also depresses the crust: geodetic studies show Iceland’s surface rebounds gradually as Vatnajökull thins by melting. Beneath the ice are deep valleys and subglacial canyons carved in past jökulhlaups (floods). In sum, Vatnajökull is a “cold” ice cap dominated by accumulation from heavy snowfall (southern Iceland gets up to 5–10 m of precipitation at high elevations) and ablation at edges via summer melt.
Vatnajökull conceals a whole volcanic archipelago. Icelandic volcanologists identify seven major volcanic systems under the ice. The two standout centers are Grímsvötn and Bárðarbunga. Grímsvötn (1,764 m, in the ice’s center) is Iceland’s most active volcano – it erupts roughly every 5–10 years. Its 2011 eruption sent ash plumes ~20 km high. Bárðarbunga (2,010 m) is the ice cap’s largest volcano with a 70×10 km caldera. In 2014–15 it fed the colossal Holuhraun fissure eruption: about 0.85 km³ of basalt lava poured out, forming an ~85 km² lava field (one of Iceland’s largest recent eruptions).
Grímsvötn (Iceland’s Most Active): Subglacial lake Grímsvötn lies under Vatnajökull’s center. Its 2011 eruption was brief but intense, and it floods frequently: each eruption often melts huge ice volumes. The glacier above Grímsvötn bulged before eruptions, and jökulhlaups (glacial outburst floods) have repeatedly swept from beneath. For instance, a 2004 eruption (Grímsvötn) led to one of the largest recorded jökulhlaups.
Bárðarbunga: This massive volcano, capped by a complex caldera, last “blew” its top in the 2014–15 fissure event. The eruption began in August 2014 and continued ~6 months. Over that time, roughly 1.6 km³ of lava erupted (≈84 km² field) – comparable to the volume of dozens of Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers combined. The glacier above slowly subsided (by ~65 m in parts). Bárðarbunga has shown unrest (swarm earthquakes, deformation), so geologists monitor it closely.
Öræfajökull (Highest Volcano): In the glacier’s southeast, Öræfajökull is a stratovolcano with two ice-covered summits. It is home to Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnjúkur (2,110 m). Öræfajökull’s historical eruptions were cataclysmic: in 1362 it produced ~10 km³ of rhyolite tephra (VEI ~6), Iceland’s largest known eruption. Another large eruption in 1727–28 again caused jökulhlaups that dramatically altered the landscape. Today Öræfajökull is largely quiet, but it contains vast meltwater lakes under the ice.
Other subglacial volcanoes include Kverkfjöll (northeast of Bárðarbunga), Hamarinn (formerly part of Bárðarbunga system), and the Torfajökull system (a large caldera in southwest Vatnajökull). Many smaller fissures and hot springs (e.g. at Kverkfjöll) pepper the ice cap’s interior.
Understanding Jökulhlaups: A jökulhlaup is a sudden release of subglacial water during/after an eruption. These floods can carry vast sediment loads, carving braided channels on the outwash plains. Vatnajökull’s volcanic dynamics make it prone to such events whenever an eruption melts the ice cap’s base.
Unlike a single sheet, Vatnajökull feeds ~30 major outlet glaciers. These are rivers of ice flowing outward from the main cap, often down into valleys or plains. Major outlets include:
Each outlet has its own flow rate and dynamics. For example, Breiðamerkurjökull calves icebergs into Jökulsárlón, while Skeiðarárjökull historically has been one of the ice cap’s fastest-moving tongues (until it thinned in recent decades). Many outlets have retreated significantly since the early 1900s, leaving terminal moraines and glacial lakes.
Almost the entire glacier and its surroundings are protected as Vatnajökull National Park (established 2008). The park spans about 14,967 km² – roughly 14% of Iceland – making it one of Europe’s largest national parks. It was created by merging the old Skaftafell and Jökulsárgljúfur parks and adding vast conservation zones. In July 2019 UNESCO inscribed the park on its World Heritage List (as “Fire and Ice”), recognizing its outstanding geology (volcanoes, glaciers, rivers, canyons).
The park protects a stunning range of features: glacier ice fields, massive volcanoes and lava fields, glacial rivers and outwash plains, towering waterfalls and deep canyons (e.g. Fjallsárgljúfur, parts of Jokulsárgljúfur), plus the dynamic coastal lagoons (Jökulsárlón, Fjallsárlón). Conservation goals include preserving pristine wilderness and dynamic processes. Each year park rangers and scientists monitor glacier change, volcanic activity and rare Arctic flora and fauna.
Historical Note: On 7 June 2008 Vatnajökull National Park was officially created. At that time it absorbed two smaller parks (Skaftafell and Jökulsárgljúfur). This combined unit immediately became Iceland’s (and then Europe’s) largest national park. The purpose was to protect the “fire-and-ice” ecosystem as a whole – an approach that UNESCO lauded in 2019.
Visitor Centers: The park operates information centers at Skaftafell (west) and Jökulsárlón (east) that offer maps, exhibits and guidance. The Skaftafell center (closed in winter) provides weather updates, trail info, and advice on glacier tours. At Jökulsárlón/Visitor Center you can book boat tours and hear about wildlife in the lagoon. Both offer basic refreshments and souvenirs. (Note: no entry fees apply, but some parking lots and winter tours may require tickets.)
Vatnajökull’s southern rim hosts Iceland’s summit: Hvannadalshnjúkur (2,110 m). This peak sits on the Öræfajökull volcano. It’s a popular objective among experienced hikers. The climb from Skaftafell is a long glacier trek (12–15+ hours round-trip) with ~1,600 m elevation gain. Success requires crampons, ice axes, rope and a glacier guide. Even in summer the upper slopes have deep snow and crevasses. Guides typically rope up groups and break trail through the snow.
The best climbing season runs roughly mid-April through June (when snow is firmer and daylight is long). Outside those months the weather is more hazardous and shorter daylight makes summit pushes riskier. Given the glacier crossings and remoteness, climbers must be in excellent shape and carry full winter gear. Despite the challenge, the reward is panoramic views of all of Vatnajökull’s peaks and out into the North Atlantic on a clear day.
Jökulsárlón is a spectacular iceberg lagoon on Vatnajökull’s southeastern edge. It formed as the Breiðamerkurjökull outlet glacier retreated in the 20th century. Today the lagoon stretches ~18 km² and is very deep (up to ~250 m) – Iceland’s deepest lake. Icebergs calve constantly from Breiðamerkurjökull and float in the teal water. As they drift into the Atlantic, some wash ashore on the adjacent Diamond Beach (above), a black-sand beach where ice chunks glint like gems. These photogenic sights are highlights of any Vatnajökull visit.
Boat tours launched from shore allow tourists to float among the icebergs. Semi-amphibious boats and smaller zodiac tours operate in summer (most around Jökulsárlón and nearby Fjallsárlón). These tours are run year-round (weather permitting) and provide unique views of the lagoon’s ice and resident seals. Harbor seals often lounge on the icebergs or swim alongside boats here. (In winter, parts of the lagoon may freeze over, but some tours still run using open channels.) Marine life also appears: eider ducks and terns can be seen, and occasionally whales or porpoises slip through the icy outflow.
Fjallsárlón, a smaller iceberg lake just west of Jökulsárlón, offers a quieter but similar experience (it is fed by the Fjallsjökull tongue). Both lagoons were featured in movies (e.g., James Bond, Batman Begins) for their otherworldly beauty.
Vatnajökull’s glaciers harbor many ice caves – seasonal tunnels carved by meltwater. These caves form anew each winter (often October–March) when surface melting drains through the ice. The caves usually collapse by late summer, so each winter sees a fresh network. The ice walls glow vividly blue, creating surreal chambers. Some notable cave areas are under Kverkfjöll in the north and around Svinafellsjökull/Skaftafell in the south. (Many tours also visit summer “ice tunnels” at glacier margins.)
Ice caves are extremely fragile and can be deadly if entered alone. Always use a guide. Tour operators in Höfn and Skaftafell run guided ice-caving trips with hardhats and lights. During the peak season (Nov–Mar), one might hike ~2–4 km on the glacier ice, then crawl 50–200 m into a cave. Inside, expect very bright blue walls (due to dense ice) and stalactites of frozen meltwater. Ambient temps are just below 0°C. Sturdy boots, crampons and layered clothing are essential. Many guides limit cave entry times for safety. The caves also have clear acoustics: a distant drip or crack is unnervingly loud, so listening helps anticipate changes.
Vatnajökull is an adventure paradise for experienced travelers. Major activities include:
All glacier activities must be guided. Even simple walks use safety ropes and gear. Local operators (e.g. Glacier Guides, Arctic Adventures) emphasize that weather on the ice changes rapidly. Guides carry satellite phones for emergency. Permits aren’t required for Vatnajökull (unlike some western glaciers), but the official advice is always to hire an accredited guide and inform park rangers of your plan.
Getting There: The Ring Road (Route 1) circles Iceland and passes along Vatnajökull’s southern edge. From Reykjavík drive east on Route 1: Skaftafell/Skaftárdalur (west glacier entry) is ~330 km (5–6 hr) via Vík. Jökulsárlón (east lagoon) is ~380 km (5.5–6.5 hr) via Höfn. The roads (running north of the glacier) are well-maintained in summer. In winter, heavy snows can close sections of Route 1 (check the Icelandic Road Administration site before travel). No roads penetrate the glacier; all tours depart from main centers (Skaftafell, Höfn, etc.).
Entry Points & Facilities:
– Skaftafell (West Side): A visitor center, campground and trailheads into the ice (e.g. Svínafellsjökull) are here. This is a major hub for hikes and ice caves. There are lodges, hostels and a campsite.
– Jökulsárlón (East Side): A small visitor center by the lagoon offers parking, restrooms and boat tours. Accommodation (hotels/guesthouses) is found in nearby Höfn (~80 km east).
– Höfn: The town east of Vatnajökull, dubbed the “lobster capital,” is a base for eastern ice cap tours (near Breiðamerkurjökull). It has several hotels and restaurants.
– Access Roads: F-roads (rough gravel routes) run along Vatnajökull’s north (e.g. F88, F905) connecting to the interior highlands (4×4 only). These require river crossings and are only passable in summer with Super Jeeps.
Best Time to Visit (Month-by-Month):
Month | Conditions and Highlights |
Jan–Feb | Deep winter: lots of snow, short days (4–6 hr light). Ice caves in place; many trails snow-covered. Boat tours seasonal (frozen lagoon). Good for Northern Lights with snowy scenery. |
Mar–Apr | Transition to spring. Ice-caves still open; begin long daylight. Snowmobile season active. Roads remain icy until late April. Early hiking (with crampons) possible. |
May | Late spring: rapid daylight increase, snowline retreats. Some tours on glacier start. Roads clearing. Skaftafell has many wildflowers. Crowds still moderate. |
Jun–Aug | Peak season. Full summer: long (24h in June) daylight, minimal snow on low trails. All tours running (hiking, ice climbing, boating). Jökulsárlón navigable. Road access reliable. Expect the most tourists and higher prices. |
Sep | Early fall: cooler, fewer crowds. Some ice caves begin to form (especially Oct). Northern Lights visible as nights return. Fjord fishing season (Höfn). |
Oct–Nov | First snowfalls. Ice caves open in Nov (weather permitting). Many tour operators wrap up by mid-November. Roads may begin to close after storms. Beautiful autumn colors around glacier edges. |
Dec | Dark winter returns. Ice caves definitely open; days very short (4–5 hr in December). Ski touring on glacier possible. Snowmobiles on glacier. Roads often challenged by storms – check updates. |
Planning Note: Summer (June–Aug) is most accessible, but also busiest and most expensive. If visiting in winter, realize many services suspend or reduce operations. Always check road.is for highway and weather conditions (especially in Nov–Mar).
What to Pack: Wool/base layers, insulated jacket, waterproof shell. Sturdy hiking boots (waterproof, ankle support). Warm hat, gloves and sunglasses (glare off snow). For glacier tours, bring a small daypack, camera with extra batteries (cold drains battery). Tour companies usually provide harness, crampons and helmet; you should have warm underlayers. If self-driving, carry emergency blanket and spares (roads can be remote).
Guides and Safety: For any glacier travel or ice activities, hire a certified guide. Licensed companies know safe routes and carry emergency gear. Going solo on Vatnajökull is strongly discouraged. Always tell someone your plans and expected return time. Weather can change rapidly – it’s common to set out under clear skies and encounter blizzard-like fog in hours.
Costs and Budget: Tour prices vary: simple 1–2 hr glacier walks typically €100–€200 per person; full-day hikes €200–€300. Ice-cave tours (with equipment) are similar. Boat tours on Jökulsárlón run around €30–€50. Accommodation near Vatnajökull spans budget guesthouses (~€100/night) to upscale hotels (€200+). Factor in car rental (4×4 recommended in winter), fuel, meals (restaurants in Höfn are pricier), and insurance for changing conditions.
Accessibility: Most tourist infrastructure (centers, short trails) is at or near parking areas. However, actual glacier terrain is inaccessible to wheeled devices. Some tour companies offer snowmobile experiences that require minimal walking. Wheelchair access: Limited – terrain is rough. The visitor centers are mostly wheelchair-friendly, but natural sites (e.g. Jökulsárlón) have uneven ground.
Vatnajökull is undergoing measurable shrinkage. Like all Icelandic glaciers, it peaked during the Little Ice Age (c.1600s) and has retreated since. Estimates indicate Iceland’s glaciers lost ~17% of their area since 1890; much of that loss is from Vatnajökull and Langjökull. In the 2000s and 2010s, glacier melt accelerated: between 2000–2017, Icelandic ice lost ~43 km² per year on average. The Vatnajökull ice cap currently thins by on the order of 1 m/year on average (with greater thinning at edges). For context, Vatnajökull contains ~3,000 km³ of ice (over 90% of Iceland’s total); if fully melted it would raise global sea level by ~1 cm.
Scientists project continued retreat under warming. Models suggest the glacier could lose half its volume in the next century if climate warms by a few degrees. Already, several outlet glaciers have dramatically pulled back, uncovering bedrock and creating new lakes. The loss of ice also impacts local hydrology: summer meltwater flow has increased in recent decades, affecting river sediment loads and hydroelectric resources.
Climate Context: Observatories note Vatnajökull’s retreat is faster than many smaller glaciers, because of Iceland’s high precipitation and maritime warmth. The glacier is a sensitive climate indicator: decreases in snowfall or increases in melt translate quickly to volume loss (much like Greenland’s outlet glaciers on a smaller scale). The situation reinforces global climate concerns.
However, Vatnajökull’s sheer size means it will not vanish overnight. Some scientists estimate that, even under aggressive warming, it may remain a significant ice mass (albeit highly reduced) into the late 21st century. Ongoing monitoring by the Icelandic Meteorological Office and glaciologists ensures updated data on thickness change (mass balance) each year.
Here is how Vatnajökull compares to other famous ice masses:
Glacier / Ice Cap | Location | Area (km²) | Notes |
Vatnajökull | Iceland | ~8,100 | Iceland’s largest; often cited as Europe’s largest outside the Arctic. Volume ~3,000 km³. |
Severny Island Ice Cap | Novaya Zemlya, Russia | ~20,500 | By area, the largest in (European) Russia – far north Arctic, so often excluded from “Europe” count. |
Austfonna (Nordaustl.) | Svalbard, Norway | ~8,100 | Roughly equals Vatnajökull in area (largest Svalbard ice cap). Largest by area in Norway. |
Langjökull | Iceland | ~950 | Iceland’s 2nd-largest ice cap (Western Highlands). |
Hofsjökull | Iceland | ~925 | Iceland’s 3rd-largest ice cap (Central Highlands). |
Jostedalsbreen | Norway (Mainland) | ~487 | Norway’s largest (European mainland) glacier. |
Aletsch | Switzerland (Alps) | ~79 | Europe’s largest mountain (non-Arctic) glacier by length/area. |
Vatnajökull is far larger than any mountain glacier in mainland Europe. Even combined, Langjökull+Hofsjökull (<2,000 km²) are only ~25% of Vatnajökull’s size. (By volume the contrast is even greater.) Globally, Vatnajökull is small compared to Greenland (1.7 million km²) or Antarctic ice sheets, but among Iceland’s and Europe’s giants it towers above most except that Russian outlier.
Q: What is Vatnajökull?
A: Vatnajökull is the massive ice cap in southeastern Iceland. Covering ~8,100 km², it is Iceland’s largest glacier and (outside the Arctic) often called Europe’s largest. It sits atop several mountains and volcanoes, and feeds dozens of outlet glaciers. The name means “glacier of waters” in Icelandic.
Q: Is Vatnajökull really the largest glacier in Europe?
A: In common usage, yes: Vatnajökull is Europe’s largest glacier outside the Arctic. Novaya Zemlya’s Severny Island (Russia) has a bigger ice cap (~20,500 km²) but lies in the far Arctic. If one excludes that, Vatnajökull’s ~8,100 km² area makes it the largest on continental Europe.
Q: What is Jökulsárlón, and where is Diamond Beach?
A: Jökulsárlón is a large glacier lagoon at the southern margin of Vatnajökull, formed by the retreat of the Breiðamerkurjökull outlet. It now covers about 18 km². Diamond Beach is the black-sand beach right next to Jökulsárlón. Icebergs float from the lagoon into the sea and often wash up on Diamond Beach, where they sparkle on the dark sand. Boat tours operate on Jökulsárlón in summer, offering close views of the icebergs.
Q: Can tourists walk on Vatnajökull?
A: You can walk on the glacier, but only with a guided tour and proper gear. Independent travel onto the ice is prohibited due to hidden crevasses and sudden weather changes. Guided glacier hikes (with crampons and ropes) depart from Skaftafell, Jökulsárlón or Höfn and can last from a couple of hours to full days. Even short glacier walks require a certified guide for safety.
Q: Are the ice caves at Vatnajökull natural, and when can I visit them?
A: The spectacular blue ice caves are naturally formed by meltwater each winter. They exist roughly November through March when cold air and meltwater carve tunnels under the glacier. By late spring/summer they collapse. Thus, guided ice-cave tours run mainly in winter. Cave locations change yearly; always go with an experienced guide wearing a helmet and headlamp.
Q: When is the best time to visit Vatnajökull?
A: It depends on your interests. For hiking and mild weather, late spring to early autumn (May–Sept) is best: roads are open, and most activities run. For ice caves and winter scenery, December–February offer snowy landscapes and Northern Lights (though daylight is short). Boat tours on Jökulsárlón run in summer. Shoulder seasons (April or Sept) mean fewer crowds and moderate weather.
Q: How far is Vatnajökull from Reykjavík, and can you drive there?
A: Vatnajökull’s edge is about 330 km from Reykjavík via the Ring Road. The drive takes ~4–6 hours (stopping). The Ring Road is paved all the way along the southern glacier margin. In summer the roads are well-maintained. In winter, heavy snow may briefly close sections, so always check current road conditions (see road.is) before traveling.
Q: Is there wildlife on or near Vatnajökull?
A: Yes, especially in the coastal and lower-altitude areas. Arctic foxes roam the highlands. At Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach, harbor seals often bask on ice floes, and you may spot eider ducks, terns, arctic skuas and gulls. Birds of prey like gyrfalcons or golden eagles sometimes hunt in nearby valleys. In winter you might see reindeer on the outskirts of the park. However, no large land animals live on the ice itself.
