The ancient city of Meroe, which hardly anyone ever seen

The ancient city of Meroe, which hardly anyone ever seen

History buffs as well as adventurers can find great delight in the fascinating city of Meroe. This site's pyramids, temples, and sculptures of cultural grandeur, visual appeal, and longevity tell the story of Meroe.

Situated in a semi-desert plain between the Nile and Atbara rivers in northern Sudan, the ruins of Meroë whisper of a once-mighty African kingdom. For almost a millennium (c. 1000 BC–350 AD) this was the heartland of the Kingdom of Kush, a civilization that at times rivaled its neighbor Egypt. The site comprises the royal city and three pyramid cemeteries of the Kushite kings and queens, plus nearby temples at Naqa and Musawwarat es-Sufra.

UNESCO describes Meroë as “the royal city of the Kushite kings” – a center of power whose vast empire stretched “from the Mediterranean to the heart of Africa”. Little wonder that 25th-Dynasty pharaohs of Egypt hailed from this region and that Roman sources mention its queens (the Kandake) ruling in their own right. For modern visitors, Meroë today feels remote and mysterious, its steep-sloped pyramids rising like a mirage over ochre dunes. As one Smithsonian writer observed, Sudan’s pyramids are only now “emerging from the shadow of [Egypt’s] more storied neighbor”.

Looking down from the capital of Khartoum, the map at right shows Meroë along the Nile (point A), about 200 km (120 mi) northeast of Khartoum. The site lies on the east bank of the Nile, near the modern town of Shendi. This region, the Sudanese Nile Valley, was the cradle of Kushite culture. Here, surrounded by desert-sand and dotted palms, the relics of an imperial capital stand in silent testament to a lost age.

The ancient city of Meroe, which hardly anyone ever seen

The Kingdom of Kush traces its roots to Napatan culture and earlier Nubian kingdoms. By the New Kingdom of Egypt’s decline (~1069 BC), Kushite power grew at Napata on the Nile. In fact, the Kushite city of Kerma dates to c. 2500 BC, but it was around 1000 BC that the Kushite kings based at Napata became regional superpowers. Later (8th–7th centuries BC), Kushite pharaohs (like Kashta and Piye) conquered Egypt and ruled as Egypt’s 25th Dynasty. This dynasty ended when Assyrians invaded Egypt in 666 BC, after which the Kushite court retreated south.

In about 591 BC, Egypt’s pharaoh Psamtik II attacked Napata, destroying parts of the city. In response, the Kushite capital was moved further upriver to Meroë, a forested river island on the Nile. According to historians, “in c. 590 BC Napata was sacked…and the capital of Kush was moved to Meroë,” which remained the royal center for centuries. The new location was strategic: it lay near iron-ore deposits and was easier to defend. Meroë’s rulers continued to foster relations and trade with Egypt, but also to look south and west along the Nile and beyond.

Through the Classical period (c. 300 BC–350 AD) the Meroitic Kingdom thrived. The city of Meroë grew into an impressive urban-industrial complex. Its economy was based on agriculture (irrigated fields of millet, sorghum, and date palms) and extensive iron smelting. As one modern historian notes, “Meroe… grew wealthy through its iron works and trade. Grains and cereals were exported along with iron weapons and tools, and livestock roamed the fields around the city.” The wealth was legendary: Greek historians (and even Persian King Cambyses II) mentioned Kush, and lore said Cambyses once marched toward Meroë in 525 BC only to be repulsed by the desert (if that expedition really reached so far). Regardless, by the early centuries AD Meroë was one of Africa’s greatest cities. It was “so wealthy” that it became legendary, with broad palaces, grand temples, and neighborhoods irrigated by Nile canals. Royal chronicles boast that even “the poorest citizen of Meroe was still better off than anyone elsewhere”.

The Candakes: Warrior Queens of Meroë

The ancient city of Meroe, which hardly anyone ever seen

A distinctive feature of Meroitic Kush was the prominent role of Kandake (also spelled Kentake or Candace). In Meroitic language, “Kandake” (Greek Candace) originally meant “queen mother” – the sister or mother of the king who held political power. But from roughly the 3rd century BC onward, Kandake came to signify a ruling queen or queen regent in her own right. Indeed, during Meroe’s later centuries numerous women rose to power. One survey of sources notes that “a number of [Kandaces] ruled independently… from the city of Meroe c. 284 BCE to c. 314 CE”. In all, at least ten female monarchs (Candaces) are known from the Meroitic period (260 BCE–320 CE). These queen-monarchs often adopted royal titulary and stelae normally reserved for kings. In carvings they appear alone in regal dress, sometimes wielding weapons.

One of the most famous was Amanirenas (ruled c. 40–10 BC). According to Roman historians, Amanirenas led Kushite armies against the Romans and even looted parts of Egypt, prompting Rome’s first military campaign into Nubia in 25 BC. Remarkably, she won a peace treaty with Augustus on very favorable terms for Kush. Ancient accounts and modern historians recall Amanirenas as a courageous one-eyed warrior-queen: she allegedly had lost an eye in battle, yet negotiated directly with the Romans, even returning stolen statues of Caesar (burying one under a temple’s steps so people would walk on it). As one account summarizes: “Amanirenas is best known as the queen who won favorable terms from Augustus Caesar” after the “Meroitic War” of 27–22 BC. Her grave at Meroë contained rich treasures (many now in museums).

Another notable queen was Amanitore (r. 1–25 AD). Inscriptions tell that she reigned during Meroë’s height of prosperity. Amanitore ordered rebuilding of the Temple of Amun at Napata and renovations of Meroë’s own great temple; archaeological evidence (grave goods, beads, coins) indicates a lively international trade during her time. Following her in the 1st century AD were other ruling queens such as Amantitere, Amanikhatashan, and others. Kushite tradition held the Candace title in high regard: the Acts of the Apostles in the New Testament even mentions a “Candace, queen of the Ethiopians” in whose service a treasurer is converted by St. Philip. In short, in Meroë matrilineal succession gave royal women extraordinary power – so much so that the Greeks and Romans came to speak of Kushite queens simply as “Candace” or “Candaces,” as if it were a name rather than a title.

Meroitic Script, Religion, and Artifacts

The ancient city of Meroe, which hardly anyone ever seen

Meroë’s culture was a melting pot of indigenous and foreign influences. The royal court worshipped a mixture of old Egyptian deities (like Amun) and local gods. A unique native deity was Apedemak, the lion-headed warrior god. Temples at nearby Naqa and Musawwarat es-Sufra contain striking reliefs of Apedemak (one shows him as a three-headed lion) and a “Lion Temple” at Musawwarat hints at ritual animal cults. The architecture blended Egyptian styles (columns, columns adorned with lotus capitals) with Hellenistic and African features. As the Smithsonian writes, even Meroë’s surviving palace and temple ruins show “distinctive architecture that draws on local, Egyptian, and Greco-Roman decorative tastes” – a testament to the kingdom’s global trade contacts.

Perhaps Meroë’s greatest intellectual legacy was its Meroitic script – among Africa’s earliest known alphasyllabaries. Beginning around the 3rd century BC, the Kushites adapted Egyptian writing for their own language. Meroitic script survives in two forms: hieroglyphic (used on monuments) and cursive (on papyrus and ostraca). In total there were 23 letters (including four vowels) representing syllables. British Egyptologist F.Ll. Griffith deciphered the basic alphabet in 1909 by matching names of Egyptian rulers in Meroitic texts. However, the Meroitic language itself remains only partly understood, since so few bilingual texts exist. In practice, almost everything we know of the script comes from royal tomb inscriptions and temple graffiti. Still, the very existence of an indigenous written language – used by kings, queens, priests, and scribes – marks Meroë as a literate, sophisticated culture. It is a point of pride that “the script is important as an early writing system in Africa,” even if scholars can only read it phonetically.

Archaeologists have unearthed tens of thousands of artifacts from Meroë’s temples and tombs: pottery, jewelry of gold and carnelian, iron tools, and carved stelae with royal portraits. Many of these artifacts now reside in Khartoum’s National Museum or in foreign institutions. Of particular note is the cache of royal jewelry found in the pyramid of Kandake Amanishakheto (r. 10 BC–1 AD), which included ornate bracelets and a gilded crown – some of which are on display in Berlin and Cairo. Such finds underscore how advanced Meroë’s artisans were in goldwork and metallurgy.

The Royal Necropolis: Pyramids of Meroë

The ancient city of Meroe, which hardly anyone ever seen

Today the most iconic sight at Meroë is its pyramids. Hundreds of small steep-sided pyramids cluster in three cemeteries beside the Nile. These Kushite pyramids (built roughly 300 BC–300 AD) echo Egyptian prototypes but are uniquely Meroitic in form: narrow, pointed, and often topped by small chapels. The largest pyramids rise about 30 m (nearly 100 ft) and served as tombs for rulers and queens. The surrounding sites have partially collapsed or been looted, but visitors can still wander amid rows of pyramids.

The south cemetery (farthest upstream) is the oldest burial field. It contains nine royal pyramids – four of kings and five of queens – together with an astonishing ~195 subsidiary tombs for lesser royals and officials. The north cemetery has 41 royal pyramids (about 30 kings and 6 queens, plus a few high nobles). The west cemetery (a bit farther away) is a non-royal area with over 100 smaller tombs. Overall, more than 200 pyramids were originally built at Meroë, making it one of the world’s largest pyramid fields. By comparison, even Egypt’s famous Giza plateau has just three pyramids. (One casual claim is that Meroë has “more pyramids than Egypt,” though most are much smaller.)

Thousands of visitors each year do not throng these sands, so Meroë retains a very quiet, remote atmosphere. None of the cemeteries has a visitor center – at best there are a few benches and a low stone wall where guards or guides might sit. Sunbeams filter through towering doorways of the pyramid chapels, where faded reliefs of deities or pharaohs can still be seen. Some pyramid temples have graffitied reliefs: for example, inside one chapel is a carving of the goddess Wadjet. But much has vanished over time. Many pyramid tops were deliberately removed in antiquity and again in the 19th century by treasure-hunters. In fact, archaeological reports note that “many [pyramid] tops are broken” – a legacy of European looting in the 1800s. As a result, almost every pyramid now appears truncated, with a flat plateau at its summit where once a chapel roof stood. Despite these losses, the layout of the necropolis is still remarkably clear: broad sandy avenues lead between rows of pyramids, and the ground is dotted with ornamental stone lions and sphinxes that once guarded the royal tombs.

Decline and Rediscovery

The ancient city of Meroe, which hardly anyone ever seen

By the 4th century AD the golden age of Meroë was ending. Legend has it that around 330 AD an army from the Ethiopian kingdom of Axum invaded and sacked the city. In any case, the last kings of Kush fell soon after – by around 350 AD the rulers seem to vanish from history and the site was abandoned. Environmental factors contributed to the decline as well. Meroë’s prosperous iron industry had literally consumed its forests. To fuel the iron furnaces, enormous swaths of acacia woods were cut for charcoal. Archaeologists and geologists show that the region became deforested and the land overgrazed by cattle. Crops failed and the once-fertile fields turned to sand. Ultimately, researchers conclude that even without the Axumite raid, Meroë likely could not have sustained its population under these conditions. By the late 4th century the city was deserted, and soon local memory faded.

Over the next 1,500 years, the pyramids and temples lay almost forgotten. Occasional Arabic travelers noted the ruins, calling the site “Bajaraweia” or “Bagrawiyya,” but it remained obscure to the outside world. In the 19th century, European explorers began to visit. Figures such as Giuseppe Ferlini and later archaeologists recorded many of the pyramids and carted off souvenirs. But for most of the modern era, Meroë was overshadowed by Egypt’s fame. Only recently have historians and tourists paid sustained attention. Archaeological teams have excavated palaces and temples, revealing mosaics, baths, and elaborate brickwork in the royal city. The site is now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (“Archaeological Sites of the Island of Meroe”). Today, conservationists worry that even these remains are at risk – as of 2024 UNESCO warned that Sudan’s political unrest and reduced security have left Meroë vulnerable to looting and damage.

Approaching Meroë: Travel and Terrain

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Visiting Meroë is a journey into an otherworldly landscape. The site stands in the flat sands of the Nile’s arid plain. To reach it from Khartoum (the usual starting point), one drives northeast along a straight, dusty highway. As the road sweeps north out of the city, the Nile curves away, and the landscape gradually blurs into yellow desert. On a clear day, a mirage shimmers on the horizon – and then, as one Smithsonian travel writer vividly recalls, “dozens of steep pyramids” suddenly appear, piercing the skyline like the spires of a fairy-tale city. The sight is so striking that visitors often say “it’s like opening a fairytale book”. Indeed, with nothing taller than date palms for miles, the pyramids of Meroë loom majestically 30 m high, set against the endless sky.

Sunrise at the pyramids of Meroë. On a desert highway out of Khartoum, visitors catch a sudden glimpse “beyond the mirage” of dozens of steep pyramids rising on the horizon. Early morning light gilds the sandstone and adobe tombs, and a caravan of camels often snakes across the sands nearby.

Off the asphalt highway you can glimpse local life: men in white jalabiya robes and turbans riding camels across the dunes, Bedouin tents strung along the roadside, and children herding goats. A few informal vendors sit on straw mats selling clay models of pyramids or brightly colored bead necklaces. Otherwise, the area feels untouched by tourism. There are no hotels, no restaurants at the ruin site – just sand, sun, and silence. As one observer notes, “the area is largely free of the trappings of modern tourism”. To approach the royal cemetery on foot is to climb tall, rippled dunes; from those sandy hilltops the pyramids in neat rows seem to rise straight up to 100 feet under the open sky. There are no crowds, no buses unloading throngs – often you have the ruins to yourself or share them only with camel herders and village children.

Visitors should be prepared for harsh conditions. By day the sun is intense and temperatures can exceed 40 °C (104 °F) in summer (May–September), while winter nights (October–April) can be surprisingly cool. In mid-summer the air is dry and still; imagine standing amid yellow sand, surrounded by broken walls and statues, with only a hot breeze for company. Water is strictly limited – bring at least 3–4 liters per person per day. There is little shade (a few acacia trees near the site), and the only “amenity” is a squat cement bathroom outside the entrance (usually unlocked). For best conditions, plan your visit in the cooler months (roughly October–March). Note that the rainy season is brief; average annual rainfall here is under 100 mm.

Getting There: Transportation

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All foreign travelers normally enter Sudan via Khartoum International Airport. (In the past, there were also Nile steamers from Aswan, Egypt, and train connections via Wadi Halfa, but due to recent conflicts and logistical changes those routes are now unreliable or closed.) Sudan’s capital is served by flights from Cairo (EgyptAir, Sudan Airways), Addis Ababa (Ethiopian Airlines), Istanbul (Turkish Airlines), and Jeddah (flynas), among others. However, since 2023 Khartoum’s airport has often been closed due to conflict, and most airlines have suspended routes. Check the latest travel advisories – as of 2024 most governments warn against all travel to Sudan.

  • From Khartoum to Meroë: Assuming travel is possible, the overland route from Khartoum is a 4–5 hour drive (≈ 200 km). There is no dedicated touristic bus, but local buses and minibuses run between Khartoum and Atbara (a city further north) that pass Shendi and Meroë. Wikivoyage notes: “Meroë is readily reached from Khartoum by road. All buses from Khartoum–Atbara and Shendi–Atbara will pass the pyramids and they’re not hard to miss. Just ask to get off at Bajarawiya (a small town adjacent to Meroë)”. In practice, the usual plan is to take a Khartoum–Atbara bus. These buses depart from an informal lot north of the city. Tell the conductor you want Meroë; often they will stop at a highway junction 15–20 km from the site.
  • At that junction (sometimes called Bajarawiya), you have two choices: either flag down a small yellow taxi and ride the remaining distance into the ruins, or walk. The site is about 15–20 km from the highway turn-off. The road from the junction leads straight to the ticket office at the north end of the pyramid field. Note: as one traveler reports, “Option 2:…ask the bus driver to be dropped off here [20 km past Shendi] and walk to the site”. Walking across the flat desert is possible if you have shade or wind, but beware midday sun. Hitchhiking is occasionally done back to Shendi if no taxi is available.
  • Alternatively, you can get off in Shendi (the nearest town, on the Nile 45 km southwest of the site) and hire a car or taxi from there. From Khartoum the Khartoum–Atbara bus also stops in Shendi. Shendi is a lively Nile town and has the only lodging in the area (see below). From Shendi, 4WD vehicles or taxis can easily reach Meroë in under an hour. There is also a small airstrip at Shendi, but no regular commercial flights – only occasional charter flights from Khartoum (rare and expensive).
  • On the Nile or Overland from Egypt: In better times, travelers from Egypt would go up the Nile. One could take a boat from Aswan to Wadi Halfa (a rough week-long steamer) and then travel south by train or bus to Khartoum. Alternatively, a new road from Abu Simbel (Egypt) goes to the Sudanese border at Wadi Halfa, but beyond that point road conditions are poor. All such routes involve crossing the Sudan border at Wadi Halfa. Entry by land or Nile requires appropriate Sudanese visas (see below). Today these routes are generally unreliable.
  • Travel Advisory – Safety: It cannot be overstated that travel to Sudan is currently extremely dangerous. The U.S. State Department’s advisory is Level 4: “Do Not Travel” for all of Sudan, citing armed conflict, civil unrest, terrorism, and kidnappings. Embassy services in Khartoum have been suspended since April 2023. The country is in turmoil; even Northern Sudan, where Meroë lies, has reported firefights and disruptions. Looting of archaeological sites has increased. In early 2024 UNESCO specifically warned that the Sudanese civil conflict placed Meroë at high risk of looting and damage. If one chooses to go despite these warnings, it is vital to exercise extreme caution, have local security guidance, and register with your embassy.

On the Ground at Meroë: What to Expect

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When you arrive at the Meroë pyramid site, you pass a simple ticket booth by the paved road (usually staffed only in the morning). (As of recent reports, entry fees are nominal and often negotiable – tourists have noted paying around $10–20 per person. Always agree on the price in advance.) Beyond the booth a dirt track leads into the three cemeteries. The ruins are open almost all day, though desert heat means many visitors come at dawn or dusk.

  • The Ruins: The site can be divided into two main parts by the highway that cuts through it. To the east (by the Nile) lie the pyramid cemeteries. To the west is the royal city of Meroë itself. On the western side you find the remains of city life: foundations of the king’s palace (a massive complex), a brick temple to Amun (the wealthiest god of Kush, relocated from Napata), a public bathhouse, and ordinary houses. Excavations show broad avenues and colonnades, with walls constructed of brick (often with mud brick encased in rubble facings). Many walls are low today, but you can walk among the rooms and imagine a bustling capital – complete with water management systems (canals, cisterns) that once irrigated fields. There is also a sacred grove of blackened tree stumps – believed to mark where royal funerary pyres burned for deceased queens.
  • On the eastern side lie the three pyramid fields. A short walk (or taxi ride) will bring you first to the South Cemetery. Here, behind a low perimeter wall, stand nine steep sandstone pyramids of the earliest Meroitic kings and queens. Many of these towers are in relatively good condition; four belong to kings and five to queen mothers. In front of each pyramid is the chapel where offerings were made; inside lie the vaulted burial chambers (though everything of value has long been removed or stolen). Surrounding the pyramids are hundreds of common graves – the so-called ru tombs – which are smaller mudbrick and stone tombs of nobles and officials. Walking carefully among the sand dunes, visitors can climb atop some of the pyramid bases (the sides are protected to prevent damage, but one can gently ascend via the remains of ramps or steps).
  • Continuing northward (toward Khartoum), you pass a few scattered sandy hills and reach the North Cemetery. This area has dozens more pyramids, mostly belonging to later kings (crowned after Egypt-Ptolemaic times) and a few queen or royal child tombs. One pyramid here is notable for a carved frieze of vulture goddesses. The density of tombs is high – nearly 41 royal pyramids and over 40 additional graves surround them. The ground is strewn with fragments of stelae and reliefs. Many pyramids at the North Cemetery have collapsed partially, so you may climb into their interior vaults through breached walls.
  • Farther northwest (a rough 10 km trek) is the West Cemetery, strictly for nobles. Here several dozen smaller pyramids and tomb-chapels stand amid rolling dunes. Few tourists visit this remote spot, but it is fascinatingly atmospheric, with the wind blowing over empty chambers and carved lintels lying half-buried in sand. Some travelers make an afternoon ramble out here to photograph the sunset behind silhouettes of tombs.
  • Views and Atmosphere: Whether at South or North Cemetery, the scene is stark and beautiful. The pyramids’ reddish sandstone gleams in sunrise or sunset light. The air is dry and still, broken only by the crunch of sand and the occasional distant human voice. Local hawks wheel overhead, and at dusk you may see the silhouettes of grazing cattle or goats. Visitors often pause in silence. As one writer put it, “No matter how many times you may visit, there is an awed sense of discovery.” Many describe the site as eerily quiet – it is easy to imagine a caravan from antiquity approaching these tombs under a golden sky. The only distractions are the sellers of handicrafts and camel tours: friendly young Sudanese will invite you to a shisha (waterpipe) or offer a ride on a camel at sunset (negotiable for a few dollars). Their plastic buckets of bottled water are welcome; carry cash to tip or barter for a cold drink.

Practical Information for Travelers

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Virtually all foreign nationals need a Sudanese visa. Passports must be valid for at least six months beyond entry. Tourist visas must be obtained in advance from a Sudanese embassy or consulate – they are generally not issued on arrival. For U.S. citizens the rules require an entry visa from Khartoum ahead of time; one must also carry proof of yellow fever vaccination. (Citizens of some countries can obtain visas at the borders at their discretion, but do not count on it.) Keep in mind the political situation: Sudanese border control may unexpectedly close crossing points during conflicts.

  • Health Precautions: Sudan lies within the African meningitis belt and has frequent malaria. The CDC recommends taking malaria prophylaxis if visiting the Nile valley (including Shendi/Meroë) at any time of year. Yellow fever vaccination is required if arriving from a country with yellow fever risk. Cholera is present in Sudan, so practice strict food and water hygiene (drink only bottled water, avoid uncooked produce). Also ensure your routine immunizations (Hepatitis A, Typhoid, Tetanus, etc.) are up to date. Carry a basic first-aid kit and medicines; medical facilities near Meroë are nonexistent beyond a simple clinic in Shendi. Travel insurance with emergency evacuation is strongly advised.
  • When to Go: The best season is the dry winter (roughly October–March). Daytime highs are moderate (25–30 °C), and nights are cool (10–15 °C). This coincides with the tourist season noted by local operators. Avoid the summer (April–September): daytime heat regularly exceeds 38–40 °C, making walking among sun-baked ruins very uncomfortable. Note that mosquitos are mostly a problem in wetter months (July–September), and malarial risk peaks in the summer. If possible, schedule your trip outside of Ramadan (the Islamic fasting month), when many shops and services may alter hours.
  • Accommodation: There are no accommodations at the site itself. The nearest town with lodging is Shendi, about 45 km away along the Nile. Shendi has a few simple hotels and guesthouses. One commonly mentioned place is El Kawther Hotel (a riverside property with thatched roofs); English-speaking travelers report rooms cost around $30–40/night, though bargaining is expected. Prices in Sudan are often negotiable; non-hotel guesthouses sometimes let beds for $5–10, but quality varies greatly. It’s wise to book whatever you can in advance or at least call ahead, as Shendi’s options are extremely limited.
  • For a more adventurous stay, some tour operators offer a tented camp near the pyramids. For example, a “Meroe Camp” provides 22 tents (with basic private bathrooms) right on the ruins, along with a dining tent and fire pits. The camp is seasonal (open roughly October–April) and prices are high (often billed as “luxury glamping”), but it does allow overnight stays by the tombs. Note: such camps are run by foreign companies and can be disrupted by unrest. In practice, most independent travelers simply make Meroë a day trip from Khartoum (returning by night) or stay in Shendi and visit early in the morning. Camping in the desert without permission is not officially allowed, and natural hazards (cold nights, snakes, scorpions in rainy season) make it risky.
  • Travel Logistics: Transport: From Khartoum you can hire a private 4WD or taxi for USD100–150 each way (splitable by group). Public bus is much cheaper (~$5) but slower and less comfortable. Within Shendi and near the site, there are no app taxis; use local minibuses (with fixed routes) or negotiated private cars. Money: Sudan uses the Sudanese pound (SDG), but the economy is cash-based. Change US dollars in Khartoum; small bills ($1–20) are easiest to exchange. Credit cards are generally not accepted anywhere outside Khartoum; Shendi will only take cash. ATMs occasionally work in Khartoum, but are unreliable. Bring extra cash, as even Shendi’s hotels sometimes run out of change. Language: Arabic is the official language; in rural Northern Sudan many also speak local Nubian dialects. English will be scant, so learn basic Arabic greetings (“Marhaba” or “Salaam”) and numbers.
  • Local Customs & Etiquette: Sudan is a conservative Islamic country (in the north). Dress modestly: men should wear long pants and shirts, women should cover shoulders and knees – many women also wear a light scarf or toob over the hair in rural areas. Public displays of affection are taboo. Always use your right hand for greetings, eating, or giving money; the left hand is considered unclean. A handshake is common between men (and between women); between men and women of opposite sexes, wait for her to extend her hand. The usual greeting is “As-salamu alaykum” (peace be unto you); the reply is “Wa alaykum as-salam.” Hospitality is a cherished value: Sudanese may urge you to join their tea or meal multiple times – graciously accept on the second or third offer to be polite. Gift ideas like incense, dates, or classroom supplies are appreciated if visiting a village.

Alcohol is strictly forbidden for Muslims; only one hotel in Khartoum (the Grand Hotel) is allowed to serve drinks, and there is no alcohol in Shendi or Meroë. Be especially respectful at holy sites: do not enter a mosque or shrine without permission, and avoid stepping on or pointing at any Qur’an or prayer area. During Ramadan (the fasting month), do not eat, drink, or smoke in public during daylight, and be extra deferential. As cultural advice says: cover up, offer items with the right hand, and do not photograph people (especially women) without asking. Dress bright or clean – Sudanese take pride in neat appearance even in remote areas.

  • Permits & Site Rules: There is no permit needed for the pyramids beyond the entry ticket. Flash photography is allowed for personal use (but drones are generally prohibited). Drones, rock climbing, or disturbing the ruins in any way are not permitted. Take only photographs and memories – leaving graffiti or excavating for souvenirs is illegal. Disposal of litter is a chronic issue; please carry out all trash. Also carry tissues or toilet paper, as the squat latrine near the site (if open) has no supplies.
  • Health and Supplies: Bring a headlamp or flashlight if you stay after dusk (it gets pitch-black quickly). If hiking around the West Cemetery, beware of scorpions, spiders, and snakes hiding under rocks. Many travelers carry a sleeping bag or blanket if camping for warmth. Sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and high-factor sunglasses are essential against the intense sun reflecting off the sand. Water is more precious than gold here – drink frequently and replace electrolytes.
  • Communication: There is little to no cell coverage at Meroë (and in 2024 the internet in Sudan can be cut off at any time). In Shendi you can buy a local SIM card (Sudani or Zain network) for calls; 3G/4G data is patchy. If traveling independently, it is wise to hire a local guide or driver who speaks Arabic and knows the route. Alternatively, book a tour through a reputable agency in Khartoum, which can arrange protected travel and fluent drivers.

A Traveler’s Reflection

The ancient city of Meroe, which hardly anyone ever seen

Visiting Meroë is as much about solitude and imagination as it is about history. One stands among monuments that ancient kings and queens built, now half-swallowed by sand. The golden light at dawn or dusk turns the red sandstone to honey-gold, and the wind whispers through colonnades. At such moments, the silence is almost spiritual. It’s easy to picture priest-king Naamanjali entering his tomb, escorted by priests in leopard skins (the leopard being another Kushite royal symbol), or queen Amanitore leading a procession into the same fields.

Even today, people still live close to Meroë. Nubian communities farm the irrigated land just south of the tombs, raising sorghum and vegetables. Children attend a small elementary school named after King Taharqa, a 25th Dynasty pharaoh of Kush. In the evenings the call to prayer from Shendi’s mosques drifts over the dunes, mixing with the sounds of camels lowing and children laughing. The contrast is palpable: the grandeur of vanished empire on the horizon, and the simple rhythms of modern Nubian village life in the foreground.

In planning a visit, one experiences this contrast firsthand. A week after touring Meroë’s ancient ruins, you might find yourself haggling in Khartoum’s chaotic souks, or sipping hibiscus tea with a Shendi shopkeeper who points you toward the pyramids. The memories combine – travel, archaeology, hospitality – in ways no brochure can fully capture.

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