Koh Samui

In the Gulf of Thailand lies an island whose contours have borne witness to centuries of change. At 228.7 square kilometres, Ko Samui occupies a space both modest in size and vast in character: second only to Phuket among Thailand’s islands, yet singular in its blend of dense jungle, coconut groves, coastal communities and modern leisure amenities. Each narrow lane and beachside hamlet carries traces of a bygone era, when fishermen from the Malay Peninsula and southern China first ventured to its shores in the sixth century. Today, the island’s very name remains a puzzle—perhaps borrowed from ancient Tamil or Hainanese dialects, perhaps rooted in a local tree—yet that ambiguity appears fitting for a place whose history resists simple explanation.

Archaeological and cartographic evidence suggests that Samui attracted seafarers over fourteen centuries ago. Small fishing settlements grew quietly, sustained by the ocean and the island’s fertile soils. By 1687, Chinese mariners had recorded the island on their charts under the name Pulo Cornam, a reminder of its position on regional trading routes. The etymology of “Samui” remains a subject of local debate: some link it to the Sanskrit-Tamil term for “sea weather”; others to the Thai name of a native tree; still others to Hainanese words for “first island” or “beautiful beach.” One tale even reaches into Malay, where saboey signifies a haven of safety. Such theories, though unconfirmed, capture the plural heritage of an island at the crossroads of cultures.

Positioned some 35 kilometres northeast of Surat Thani town (at roughly 9° N, 100° E), Ko Samui is the largest landmass in the Chumphon Archipelago. Its form stretches some 25 kilometres from east to west, with a ring road of 51 kilometres tracing the lowland rim. From the road, concrete offshoots wind upward, penetrating the heart of an interior cloaked in rainforest. Here, Khao Pom rises to 635 metres—a silent sentinel amid a woodland that shelters hornbills, macaques and myriad insect species. Offshore, satellite isles such as Ko Pha-ngan, Ko Tao and Ko Nang Yuan beckon travellers in search of solitude or underwater exploration, while offshore clusters like Mu Ko Ang Thong National Park tempt day-trippers with sheltered bays and karst pinnacles.

Samui’s climate falls under a tropical monsoon classification, marked by warmth and humidity year-round. Annual precipitation averages around 1,960 millimetres—noticeably less than Phuket’s 2,220 millimetres—yet still ample to sustain lush vegetation. Rainfall concentrates chiefly between mid-October and early December, when daily deluges can drench the island, though individual showers typically last less than an hour. During the remainder of the year, brief bursts of rain punctuate stretches of sun, offering respite without overwhelming the landscape. This rhythm of tropical showers and sunshine shapes both the island’s ecology and the agricultural practices that once dominated its economy.

Until the early 1970s, Ko Samui remained detached from Thailand’s mainland arteries. No paved roads crossed its interior; circumnavigating the island demanded a day’s trek on foot or by the occasional dirt track. The settlement of Nathon on the western shore, the historical seat of local administration, maintained a small port connection to Surat Thani, yet life here unfolded with a self-sufficient simplicity: coconut palms and rubber trees bore harvests for local use and sporadic trade. The arrival of paved roads, and soon after an airport in 1989, altered that equilibrium. Today, a 51 kilometre ring road links primary beaches and villages, while Samui Airport—privately built and operated by Bangkok Airways—handles fifty daily flights, its open-air terminal designed to evoke traditional Thai architecture and honoured for its environmentally sensitive construction.

Maritime and land transport on Samui displays a blend of the practical and the picturesque. Two car-ferry routes link the island to Don Sak on the mainland, arriving at Nathon or Lipa Noi. Ferries for foot passengers and songthaews—converted pickup trucks with fixed-route fares—operate along the ring road. Privately hired taxis offer direct transit between villages and beaches at negotiated flat rates. Public buses, departing from a station north of Nathon, serve longer distances into Surat Thani Province. Despite modern roads, hazardous potholes persist, and motorbike rentals—though ubiquitous—carry known risks. Visitors are advised to wear helmets, carry travel insurance, and exercise caution on rural stretches after dark.

Roughly 50,000 residents call Samui home, over 90 percent of whom practice Buddhism. While coconut and rubber once underpinned livelihoods, tourism has eclipsed agriculture as the island’s primary economic driver. In 2018, some 2.7 million tourists arrived—up from 2.34 million in 2016—and the figure climbed steadily until the global pandemic tempered visitor numbers. Growth has brought both prosperity and social tensions: a widening gap between affluent newcomers and local workers, alongside incidents of crime tied to disparities in wealth. In the high season before 2020, certain beaches carried the weight of overcrowding; snapshots of packed shorelines reflected an industry grappling with sustainability.

Modern tourism to Samui began to gather momentum in the late 1970s, when a trickle of backpackers ventured ashore aboard coconut-boat crossings. A handful of simple bungalows serviced that early wave of travellers. The 1990s ushered in a more robust influx: chartered vessels and package tours brought families and couples in search of sunlit sands. Hotel rooms rose from around 17,500 in 2013 to include nearly 18,000 by 2015. Bangkok Airways simultaneously upgraded its fleet, replacing propeller aircraft with Airbuses to provide some 189,000 additional seats. Germany, the United Kingdom and Thailand together accounted for over a quarter of arrivals, though demand from other Asian markets has since grown.

In 2020, legislators in Bangkok revived discussion of an 18-kilometre bridge connecting mainland Nakhon Si Thammarat Province with Samui’s southwestern tip. Proponents argued that a permanent link—proposed to bear the name of Prime Minister Prayut Chan-o-cha—would stimulate regional growth and reduce reliance on ferries. Critics pointed to astronomical costs, environmental impacts and potential threats to the island’s character. As of mid-2025, the proposal remains under consideration, emblematic of the ongoing debate over development versus conservation.

From Nathon at the western harbour, a clockwise sweep of coastline unfolds a succession of seaside settings, each with its own character:

• Laem Yai: A secluded cove on the northwest tip, where fishing boats rest against the silhouette of Ang Thong’s islands.
• Mae Nam: A northern shore defined by shallow water and gentle sands, well suited to families and those seeking quiet.
• Bophut: Once a fishing village, now known for its Fisherman’s Village, a cluster of renovated shop-houses, eateries and boutiques.
• Bang Rak: Nicknamed “Big Buddha Beach,” this northeastern point hosts the 15-metre statue of Wat Phra Yai, attracting daily pilgrims and sightseers.
• Choeng Mon: A compact, sheltered bay where luxury resorts meet low-rise guesthouses—fewer crowds, slower rhythms.
• Chaweng: The island’s most extensive shoreline, a wide arc of white sand flanked by luxury hotels, backpacker hostels and a nightlife scene that extends into the early hours.
• Lamai: Chaweng’s southern neighbour, once celebrated for its rock formations near Grandmother and Grandfather Rocks; its evolution has given rise to go-go bars and beach lounges, though quieter spots remain at its fringes.
• Samui South Coast: A series of small, seldom-visited pockets—Hua Thanon, Na Khai, Laem Set, Bang Kao and Thong Krut—where local life retains a measured pace.
• Lipa Noi and Lem Hin Khom: Southwestern coves offering solitude, golden sands and panoramic views of the outer archipelago.

Beyond beaches, Samui harbours waterfalls, wildlife shows, historical houses and artisan venues:

• Na Mueang Waterfalls (1 & 2): Accessed via Route 4169, these cascades drop over purple rock into inviting plunge pools.
• Hin Lat Waterfall: A short drive from the ring road leads to tiered pools framed by tropical foliage.
• Grandmother and Grandfather Rocks: Natural formations at Lamai’s southern edge, famed for their anthropomorphic shapes and local legends.
• Old House: A nearly two-century-old Chinese-style mansion, preserved by the Hancharoen family and open to visitors as a glimpse of pre-modern architecture.
• Silver (Crystal) Beach: A narrow inlet of fine sand, often less crowded than Chaweng or Lamai.

Show venues—monkey performances and elephant shows—have drawn criticism for ethical concerns, even as they remain part of the visitor circuit. In the southeast, Samui Aquarium and Tiger Zoo display marine species alongside big cats, while the nearby Butterfly Garden and Insect Museum chart the diversity of the island’s smaller creatures.

Local traditions and global gatherings punctuate the calendar:

• Buffalo Fighting Festival: Held on New Year’s Day and Songkran, this contest of decorated water buffalo features brief, ritualized bouts scented with holy water.
• Ten Stars Samui Art Party: An annual convergence of artists, collectors and enthusiasts, hosted at resorts and cultural venues to foster an emergent art community.
• Samui Triathlon: An International Triathlon Union event drawing over five hundred competitors for a swim-bike-run competition around the island.
• Ko Samui Midnight Run: A charity road race each March, organized by the Thai Hotel Association and local tourism bodies, offering 5 km and 10 km courses.
• Samui Regatta: A sailing competition since 2002, attracting crews from Australia, Japan, Singapore and beyond for contests in the Gulf’s waters.

Over the years, Samui’s spiritual architecture has grown in both number and prominence:

• Wat Phra Yai (Big Buddha Temple): Erected in 1972 on a northeast promontory, its gilded statue stands 15 metres tall.
• Wat Khunaram: The southeast temple where the mummified body of a revered meditation master remains displayed upright in a glass shrine.
• Laem Sor Pagoda: A chedi with yellow-tile surfaces that gleam like molten metal under sunlight, marking one of the island’s most solemn shrines.

These sites draw daily worshippers and curious travellers alike, their rituals and incense offering a window into island life beyond the tourist gaze.

Water sports and excursions define many itineraries:

• Snorkelling and Diving: Shore-based dives often contend with silt and low visibility, but day trips to Ko Tao and Ang Thong National Park deliver clear water, coral gardens and pelagic species. Jun–Aug offers ideal dive conditions, though operators run trips year-round.
• Scattered islets such as Ko Kra, Ko Losin and the Samran Pinnacles reward more experienced divers with sightings of sharks, manta rays and large jacks.
• Water Parks and ATV Rentals: Surface attractions complement aquatic ones, though ATVs lack road-legal status and carry liability concerns.

Samui’s food culture reflects its island setting and southern Thai heritage:

• Coconuts: Fresh from roadside stalls, young coconuts offer sweet, cooling water.
• Seafood: Local catches appear in curries, grills and stir-fries, though busy seasons can strain supply.
• Regional Specialties: Muslim-influenced curries (massaman), fish-based noodle dishes (khanom jeen) and biryani speak to Malay, Indonesian and Indian influences. Popular snacks include salted eggs and rambutan.
• Dual Pricing: Tourists may encounter two menus—one priced at local rates, another at tourist rates up to four times higher. Vigilance at ordering can preserve both budget and harmony.

After dusk, drinking establishments range from candlelit lounges to exuberant beer bars:

• Local Beers (Singha, Tiger, Chang, Leo) cost around 90 baht; imports often double that price.
• Beer Bars: Especially concentrated along Chaweng Beach, these venues feature hostess-staffed tables, bar games and late closing times (officially 01:00, though often later).
• Karaoke Rooms: Offer private booths and communal stages, pairing song lists in Thai and English with attentive service.
• Nightclubs: Pulse with electronic and pop music, drawing crowds until the early morning.
• Rum Distillery Tours: On the south coast, a local producer crafts five flavors—sugarcane, lemon, orange, pineapple and coconut—alongside spiced mixers of cinnamon and lime.

Traveller caution is warranted in several areas:

• Water: Tap water is not potable. Bottled water and purified ice from restaurants provide safer options.
• Transport: Motorbike rentals pose a high risk of accidents; cars and jeeps, though pricier, offer greater protection and may include fuller insurance. All-terrain vehicles lack registration for road use.
• Crime: Theft from overnight bus luggage holds has been reported; valuables should remain in carry-on bags. Isolated incidents have occurred on beaches after dark. Always negotiate taxi fares in advance and confirm menu prices before ordering.

Ko Samui is an island of contrasts: ancient temples stand within earshot of beachside DJ sets; rainforest-covered peaks overlook luxury resorts; humble fishing villages persist alongside bustling tourist enclaves. Its story is one of adaptation—of a community shaped by geography, tempered by isolation, and transformed by the tides of global travel. To walk its shores is to traverse epochs, encountering reminders of a time before roads, before planes, before the world’s gaze settled here. And yet, in moments of quiet—when the monsoon sky clears and the horizon blazes with sunset—there remains a palpable sense that Samui, in all its complexity, continues to define itself anew.