Sancocho de guandú

Soak and prepare the guandú and salted beef The night before, cover the dried guandú generously with cold water and soak it in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours. Drain and rinse. Rinse the commercially salted beef, then soak it under refrigeration as directed by the seller; drain and cut into large pieces. Keep raw beef separate from the vegetables.

Start the peas and meats Put the guandú, short ribs, desalted beef and 3.5 litres fresh water in a large heavy pot. Bring to a boil, skim any foam, then lower the heat to a steady gentle simmer. Cook partially covered for about 1½–2 hours, until the peas and meats are nearly tender. Add hot water if needed to keep the ingredients covered.

Make the hogao While the soup simmers, warm the oil with the achiote over low heat until the oil turns a deep orange-red; do not let it smoke. Add onion, scallions, tomato, garlic and ají dulce. Cook for 10–12 minutes until soft and juicy. Stir in the cumin and half the cilantro, then set aside.

Add the roots and squash When the peas are almost tender, add the yuca, ñame and ahuyama to the pot. Simmer for about 20–25 minutes, until the roots are beginning to soften but still hold their shape.

Add plantain and hogao Stir in the ripe plantain and all the hogao. Simmer for another 15–20 minutes, until the peas, roots and plantain are fully tender and the broth is hearty. Stir gently so the plantain keeps some shape.

Taste and finish the soup Stir in the remaining cilantro. Taste the broth before adding salt because the salted beef can contribute plenty. If it tastes too salty, add a little hot water and simmer briefly; if it needs seasoning, add salt gradually. Remove any rib bones that have separated and discard them.

Serve hot with the toppings Ladle the soup into deep bowls. Top each serving with pieces of cooked chicharrón and, if desired, grated costeño cheese. Serve bollo de yuca alongside. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours and reheat until steaming throughout and at least 73.9°C.