Arroz con Chipi-Chipi

Choose and clean the shellfish Keep the live clams chilled at or below 4°C and separate from ready-to-eat foods. Buy them from an inspected, traceable supplier; do not gather them from unapproved waters. Discard broken shells. Tap any open shell gently: a live clam should close. Scrub the shells under cold drinking water until free of visible sand.

Open the clams and save the liquor Bring 750 ml water to a boil in a large lidded pot. Add the clams, cover and cook for 8–10 minutes, until the shells open. Discard any that remain closed. Tip the opened clams into a bowl and let them cool just enough to handle. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve lined with clean cloth or a paper filter to catch grit. Measure 480 ml broth; if needed, top it up with hot water. Remove the clam meat from the shells and return it to the strained broth.

Season the rice Warm the hogao in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the rinsed rice, salt and pepper, stirring for 5 minutes so the grains are coated and fragrant. Avoid vigorous stirring, which can break the grains. Keep the optional ají separate for serving.

Cook the rice in clam broth Add the clam meat and measured broth to the pot. Bring to a steady simmer and cook uncovered for about 20 minutes, stirring gently once or twice and scraping the base so the rice does not catch. When most liquid has been absorbed and small holes appear at the surface, cover the pot and reduce the heat. Cook for 10 minutes, or until the rice is tender and the mixture is still moist. If the grains remain firm after the broth is absorbed, add hot water in small splashes and continue cooking.

Rest and serve Turn off the heat and leave the pot covered briefly while you set the table. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve hot with ají on the side. Keep the rice hot until serving. If saving leftovers, cool them rapidly in shallow containers within 1 hour, refrigerate promptly and reheat once to 74°C throughout.