Exploring the Secrets of Ancient Alexandria
From Alexander the Great's inception to its modern form, the city has stayed a lighthouse of knowledge, variety, and beauty. Its ageless appeal stems from…
Cradled in the vast North Atlantic, the nine volcanic islands of the Azores emerge like emerald outposts halfway between Europe and America. Rising abruptly from the sea – some peaks towering 2,351 m (7,713 ft) above the waves – this Portuguese archipelago weaves together rare geological drama and subtropical lushness. Despite lying at latitudes comparable to London, the Azores enjoy a mild, ocean-moderated climate; daytime temperatures generally hover between 16 °C and 25 °C (61–77 °F) year-round. Locals boast there is “no such thing as an off-season” here, and it’s easy to believe: tulips and hydrangeas bloom even in winter, and far-North-European notions of frost or snow are alien to these islands. Beneath ever-changing skyscapes of shifting sun and mist, the Azores reveal forests, crater lakes, waterfalls and turquoise coves that feel otherworldly – truly an “eternal spring” archipelago where nature’s palette is permanently fresh and vibrant.
The Azores (Portuguese: Açores) lie some 1,400 km (870 mi) west of Lisbon and 1,500 km (930 mi) northwest of Morocco. Covering roughly 2,350 km² (908 sq mi) of land and spread out over 600 km (373 mi) of ocean, the islands cluster in three groups: the western pair (Flores and Corvo), the central quintet (Graciosa, Terceira, São Jorge, Pico and Faial), and the eastern duo (São Miguel and Santa Maria). Every island is volcanic in origin – some still whispering steam or rumbling quietly underground – and together they form a UNESCO Global Geopark. Mount Pico (on Pico Island) is Portugal’s loftiest summit, its 2,351 m (7,713 ft) cone piercing the skies. From Santa Maria’s red-granite shores (its bedrock nearly eight million years old) to Pico’s youngest lava flows (about 300,000 years), the terrain bears witness to an ancient and ongoing geological saga. The islands’ highest peaks – like Pico, and São Jorge’s Pico da Esperança – loom thousands of meters above sea level, so if measured from the base of the ocean to the summit these are among the tallest mountains on the planet. Shielding the mid-Atlantic, these highlands are dotted with calderas and crater lakes: Sete Cidades on São Miguel alone contains two emerald and sapphire lagoons in one grand five-kilometre-wide caldera. Jagged cliffs tumble into the sea everywhere, and everything feels wild and untamed – whether it’s a pasture of grazing cows atop a foggy cliff or a fern-carpeted forest opening onto an endless blue horizon.
The crater-rimmed Lagoa do Fogo (“Lake of Fire”) on São Miguel Island is one of the Azores’ legendary landscapes – a nearly circular highland lake surrounded by forested peaks. Crater lakes like this, often bordered by trails and dotted with observation decks, are a hallmark of the landscape. Every scene in the Azores seems painted: deep-blue volcanic lakes reflect fluffy clouds, while fields flush with wild hydrangeas in summer burst like watercolor splashes against green hills. In fact, about a quarter of the archipelago’s land area is protected for conservation, underlining that these islands are truly a natural reserve in the Atlantic. Four of the nine islands themselves (Corvo, Graciosa, Flores and Pico) are UNESCO-designated biosphere reserves, preserving everything from laurel forests to marine sanctuaries. The “Garden of the Atlantic” reputation is well-earned: volcanic soils are richly fertile, moisture is plentiful, and even distant horizons shimmer with grasses and bamboo. Locals joke that one can experience all four seasons in a single walk, but none of those seasons bring the extremes of many continents. Indeed, “the great thing about the Azores is… there’s no such thing as an off-season.”
The archipelago’s climate earns it the nickname “Islands of Eternal Spring.” Its position astride warm ocean currents – the Gulf Stream and North Atlantic Drift – keeps winters very mild and summers restrained. In Ponta Delgada (São Miguel), average January highs are around 13 °C (55 °F) and nighttime lows seldom drop below 10 °C. In mid-summer one sees comfortably warm days around 22–25 °C (72–77 °F), often with cloudless skies. Even the ocean bathes in moderation: summer water temperatures climb only to about 20 °C (68 °F) around São Miguel (cool by tropical standards, but warm enough for casual swimming). Extremes are virtually unknown: temperatures above 30 °C or below 3 °C have never been recorded in the major Azorean cities. The result is moist, emerald-green landscapes and legendary flower bloom. Hydrangeas – which thrive in the Azorean humidity – paint the islands pink, purple and blue from spring through summer. Patchwork fields of heather, lupins and lilies, plus historic orchards of oranges and figs, make spring and autumn hikes feel like wanders through giant gardens.
Despite the steadiness, the weather can turn on a dime. The Azores lie in a volatile storm track, and one island can even cast a shadow on its neighbor. Locals advise dressing in layers and always carrying a rain jacket. “Bring a lightweight jacket, umbrella, sunglasses and sunscreen,” warns the regional travel bureau – because on the Azores “you may find yourself needing it all” during one outing. The good news is that mildness begets softness in travel planning: tour boats run year-round (though many operators quiet down in winter), and outdoor activities are rarely cancelled by cold. In sum, spring (March–June) offers wildflower displays and perfect hiking weather; summer (June–September) delivers warm sea swims and festivals; autumn (September–November) is almost as warm but with fewer crowds; and even winter (December–February) provides a green landscape for those seeking solitude, if one is prepared for fog or showers.
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The Azores’ volcanic soul is written across every island. Crater lakes and calderas are everywhere: the twin lakes of Sete Cidades (São Miguel) are perhaps the archipelago’s most iconic image, one lagoon emerald-green, the other sapphire-blue, framed by a stone bridge. Far from isolated, these water-filled calderas overflow into rivers that power dozens of waterfalls. On Flores Island alone you can find over 100 falls leaping off mossy cliffs. National Geographic highlighted waterfalls like Ribeira Grande’s majestic plunges and Ribeira do Ferreiro on Flores as symbols of this lush land. Hidden valleys ringed by towering cliffs – such as the famous Fajã da Caldeira do Santo Cristo on São Jorge – reward intrepid hikers who follow winding paths down to quiet lagoons.
Subterranean heat adds its own magic. In Furnas (São Miguel) and other calderas, steaming fumaroles and hot springs bubble up amidst vegetable gardens. The Terra Nostra Park in Furnas boasts a large geothermal pool tinted rust-brown by iron and silicon. Bathing in that iron-rich water, warmed by subterranean heat, is like floating in the earth’s boiler. Across the islands, Azoreans even cook with volcanic power: in Furnas, meats and vegetables are slow-baked underground in cloths lined with leaves, resulting in the famous Cozido das Furnas – a communal stew unearthed after hours of geothermal cooking (it’s a must-try for any visitor). On Faial Island, the 1957 Capelinhos Volcano left a moonscape of black ash that now attracts photographers and geology buffs; its interpretive center shows how the landscape changed in the space of one night. Even ordinary rainwater sometimes turns into a spectacle: near São Miguel’s Pico da Vara, a small spring known as Poça da Dona Beija bubbles into tubs of naturally heated mineral water at around 35 °C – a natural Jacuzzi set against a backdrop of ferns.
Above ground, the islands’ flora is equally wondrous. Azorean forests – often termed laurisilva – preserve plant species once common to ancient Macaronesian woodlands. On Flores and Corvo, dense forests of laurel and juniper still cloak rugged hillsides. São Miguel’s Terra do Galo and Sete Cidades trails cut through maple, laurel and towering eucalyptus stands, evoking an island rain forest. One might spot the Azores bullfinch (Priolo), a tiny endangered songbird that lives only in these woods. Above the tree line, pasture and broom fields bloom with heather, gorse and spring lilies. Vineyards cling to Pico’s slopes on man-made terraces, a UNESCO-listed cultural landscape that demonstrates centuries of farming in basalt. Grazing cows are ubiquitous – the Azores make amazing butter and cheese from local dairy – while dragon trees and agave punctuate drier areas. Even the remote splashes of color on whitewashed houses (blue, ochre or green trim) complement the natural greens, giving villages a fairy-tale look. Everywhere, nature feels just on the edge of your fingertips: mosses and flowers in roadside ditches, and orchids in sunken meadows.
Arguably the marine life is what ultimately dazzles. Nearly 30 species of whales and dolphins roam these waters. Today the Azores are known as one of the world’s great whale-watching capitals. Cruise operators run daily tours (especially from São Miguel, Pico, Faial and Terceira) that virtually guarantee sightings of something every season. Sperm whales and bottlenose dolphins are year-round residents; seasonal visitors include humpback whales (March–May), blue and fin whales (spring and summer), and numerous dolphin varieties (including the playful common and Risso’s dolphins). The World Wildlife Fund even calls the Azores an “oasis” for cetaceans. When a 25-metre blue whale surfaces near your boat, it’s a moment of pure wonder. Above deck, breezes carry the salty spray as spouts and flukes punctuate the horizon – a reminder that these green peaks float atop a deep blue frontier.
It’s easy to forget how isolated these islands feel – then to find that their culture is a lively blend of mainland Portuguese and local tradition. The Azores were uninhabited when navigators from Portugal first arrived around 1432. Settlement began soon after (circa 1439) under Prince Henry the Navigator, drawing colonists not only from continental Portugal but from Sicily, Genoa and even seamen expelled from Andalusia. Over time, immigrants included Sephardic Jews (expelled from Portugal in 1496), settlers from the Mediterranean, Flemish weavers (who are said to have introduced tiled façades on Terceira), and exiles from North Africa. This human melting-pot gave rise to distinctive dialects, folk customs and architecture. Catholicism took root early: each island boasts a holy day or festival (many tied to the Festas do Espírito Santo, a chain of springtime Holy Spirit celebrations unique to the Azores). On those days, even today, townsfolk parade crowns and carry sacred images while sharing bread and wine with strangers in a spirit of charity. Shepherds’ songs and accordion ditties fill village squares, and communal bullfights (touradas à corda – bulls on a rope) or colorful processions provide communal entertainment.
In historic towns like Angra do Heroísmo (Terceira) and Ponta Delgada, one can stroll cobbled lanes past painted churches and pastel-painted colonial buildings. Angra was once called “The Queen of the Atlantic” and became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983 for its well-preserved 16th-century layout. Ports are still gateways to adventure: Horta Marina on Faial is a famous yacht stopover (sailors leave murals on the pier). On quieter islands like São Jorge and Graciosa, life still centers around agriculture and fishing; a visitor might join locals for homemade queijadas (cheese tarts) or witness the weekly cattle drives into the mountains. The outlook is optimistic – nearly every Azorean you meet seems to have a cousin or childhood friend living abroad – so hospitality is effortless. Even coffee breaks can last an hour, as elders chat under bougainvillea-vine trellises.
A legacy of this outward gaze is the global Azorean diaspora. From the 17th century to the late 20th, hundreds of thousands of Azoreans emigrated – to Brazil’s South Region, the Eastern United States (New England), California, and Hawai‘i. Today Rhode Island and Massachusetts proudly boast more people of Azorean descent than Lisbon itself. Many long for their green islands, and visits home during festivals can be raucously joyful affairs. It’s said that in New Bedford or Fall River (MA), when a non-Azorean first attends an Espírito Santo feast, the generosity and singing can be eye-opening. On the islands, the effect is that family farms and traditions endured. You’ll see cars with Rhode Island license plates parked beside the town square or hear a mix of Portuguese and accented English in a bar. All this makes the culture feel far richer – a heartfelt handshake between worlds, embodied in embroidered divinity crowns and hand-hammered copper cookware passed down through generations.
No visit is complete without savoring the Azorean kitchen. The cuisine is rooted in the land and sea, reflecting centuries of self-sufficiency plus a dash of island eclecticism. Fish and seafood are ubiquitous: grilled limpets (lapas), limpets gratinated with butter and parsley, barnacles sautéed in wine, and amazing clams and octopus from the Atlantic. But unique to the Azores are dishes born of volcanic ingenuity. In Furnas and Caldeiras (São Miguel), families still cook the Cozido das Furnas – a hearty stew of beef, pork, sausage and vegetables wrapped in cloth, then buried in a volcanic hot spot until everything is tender and smoky. By noon one smells meat cooking in the ground as if by magic. Terra Nostra Park’s iron-tinged pools complement a meal with similarly “mineral-rich” pork dishes.
Dairy plays a large role here too: cows graze lush pastures on all the big islands, and you’ll find tables groaning with fresh cheeses. São Jorge’s queijo da Ilha (island cheese) is famous for its nutty, piquant flavor. Olives, cornbread and local honey often precede meals; green salads are tossed with island-grown pine nuts or local fruit. Azorean pineapple – grown in heated greenhouses only on São Miguel – makes a dessert or pastry garnish like nowhere else. Wine is often homegrown (Pico’s verdelho white and terrantez grapes are carefully tended in lava fields). Even the coffee is special: Azores coffee beans (from São Miguel and São Jorge) are grown at high elevation and have a mellow citrus note. Dining here feels personal: many restaurants are family enterprises, and on small islands you might end up feasting at the owner’s family table over homemade jam and liqueurs after dinner. It’s not gourmet in a pretentious sense, but every bite tastes like pure Azores – simple, satisfying, and filled with the warmth of island hospitality.
Every traveler finds something to love here, whether adrenaline-junkie or serenity-seeker. Hiking is a national pastime: the Azores Trails network has dozens of marked routes across all islands. One might start a day climbing Pico’s slopes to watch clouds roll underfoot, then join a jeep tour of Pico’s wine country in the afternoon. On São Miguel, the trail from Vista do Rei down to Sete Cidades reveals two lakes at once; hikers often pause under ancient hydrangea trees to absorb the view. São Jorge’s remote fajãs (coastal plains left by landslides) are accessible only by footpaths – imagine trekking a cedar forest at dawn to emerge at a sea-cliff village with crystal coves. Forested hikes are common too: the trail through Terra do Galo (São Miguel) weaves under a canopy of maples and ferns, while on Faial a loop hike skirts the vast Caldeira (a volcanic crater caldera). Each trail feels distinct – meadow meanders, lava fields, eucalyptus tunnels – but all share the Azorean hallmark of lushness.
For waterside thrills: whale- and dolphin-watching tours run daily during spring through early autumn. Boats depart at sunrise, and watching a pod breaching near Pico or a blue whale’s spout off Faial is unforgettable. Sea kayaking is increasingly popular – paddling along Faial’s black cliffs or around São Jorge’s virgin bays lets one see puffins and terns up close. The islands also offer world-class diving: beneath the waves lie underwater volcanoes, caves and wrecks, often alive with manta rays, grouper and colorful corals. Surfers know São Miguel’s Praia do Santa Bárbara and Santa Maria’s São Lourenço as Europe’s best hidden surf breaks when winter swells arrive. Even the valleys offer excitement: canyoning and rappelling through Santo António ravine (São Miguel) or along Flores’ waterfalls are now guided by professionals. Adrenaline aside, there’s plenty of relaxation: green tea (grown on São Miguel) is sipped in villa terraces, and terrace cafés preside over lagoon views. After a long hike, nothing beats a soak in the geothermal Caldeira Velha hot spring (iron- and silica-charged waters) under a jungle canopy. At day’s end, many visitors gather at cliffside lookouts to sip Azorean wine as the sun sinks – the views are so spectacular that “Instagram envy” is practically guaranteed.
To summarize key experiences, here are some highlights often recommended:
All these are woven into the very fabric of Azorean daily life: festival weekends, farmer’s markets, impromptu cattle drives, and back-roads cafés offering fresh cheeses and jams. Venture to a plateau at sunset, and you’ll likely find families picnicking under olive trees with guitars and wine, singing fado and folk tunes as gulls wheel overhead. The Azores feel like a story slowly unfolding, where every cove or valley has a legend, every church a patron saint, and every traveler eventually feels at home.
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