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Fez, alternatively called Fes, is a city that exemplifies Morocco’s extensive historical heritage. Located in the northern inland area of Morocco, Fez is the capital of the Fez-Meknes administrative region. According to the 2014 census, with a population of 1.11 million, it is the second-largest city in Morocco, exceeded only by Casablanca. The city is ideally situated to the northwest of the Atlas Mountains, encircled by undulating hills, with the Fez River (Oued Fes) flowing elegantly from west to east through its center. Commonly known as the “Mecca of the West” and the “Athens of Africa,” Fez is esteemed as the spiritual and cultural capital of Morocco.
Fez’s origins trace back to the 8th and 9th century CE during the Idrisid dynasty. Initially, the city consisted of two distinct and rival towns. The villages started to have a clearly Arab character with the influx of immigrants from Ifriqiya (present-day Tunisia) and al-Andalus (Spain/Portugal) in the early 9th century. The infusion of Arab culture and populace established the groundwork for Fez’s destiny as a hub of Islamic study and commerce.
The city’s prosperity fluctuated with the ascendance and decline of many dynasties. The unification of the two settlements into what is presently referred to as Fes el-Bali, or “Old Fez,” occurred in the 11th century under the Almoravid Sultan Yusuf ibn Tashfin. This unity signified the onset of Fez’s rise as a prominent hub for religious knowledge and commercial enterprise.
Fez had its peak during the Marinid period, which lasted from the 13th to the 15th centuries. During this time, it restored its position as the political capital of Morocco. The Marinid monarchs initiated an extensive construction program, erecting numerous madrasas and mosques, many of which remain as exemplars of Moorish and Moroccan architectural styles. The Marinid sultan Abu Yusuf Yaqub established the royal administrative area of Fes Jdid, or “New Fez,” in 1276. This neighborhood, home to the Royal Palace (Dar al-Makhzen), was subsequently enhanced with expansive gardens.
The Marinid period witnessed an increase in the Jewish community in Fez, resulting in the creation of the Mellah, or Jewish district, on the southern side of Fes Jdid. Although the Marinid dynasty ultimately declined, its cultural and architectural legacy profoundly influenced the city.
Subsequent to the decline of the Marinids, Fez engaged in a rivalry with Marrakesh for political and cultural supremacy. It temporarily restored its role as the capital during the Alawi dynasty until 1912. The city now is an intriguing combination of its ancient heritage and contemporary advancements. It consists of two historic medina districts, Fes el-Bali and Fes Jdid, in addition to the expansive Ville Nouvelle region, which was developed during the French colonial period.
The Medina of Fez is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized as one of the largest and oldest urban pedestrian areas globally. This pedestrian zone comprises a maze of narrow lanes, vibrant markets, and historical sites. One of its most significant sites is the University of al-Qarawiyyin, established in 857, recognized as the oldest continually operating institution of higher instruction globally. The Chouara Tannery, established in the 11th century, is a notable landmark of the medina, providing insight into ancient leather-making techniques that have persisted for generations.
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