Serbian Škembići in Thick Onion, Bacon and Paprika Sauce
Škembići u saftu turn a firm, strongly textured ingredient into a slow-cooked sauce dish. The tripe is not asked to tenderise in the final sauce alone. It first spends several hours in a separate broth with carrot, celery, onion, bay and peppercorns, then cools briefly for slicing before returning to a concentrated onion-and-paprika base.
The dish is closely associated with southern Serbian kafana cooking, where patience is part of its identity. Recipes commonly give tripe a very long first cook and then build a separate saft with onion, fat, flour and paprika. This two-stage approach is practical: the tripe becomes tender without making the final sauce watery, while the reserved broth carries its flavour into the second pot in a controlled amount.
Tripe should become tender enough for a knife to pass through easily but should not dissolve. That slight resilient bite matters because the strips still have another half hour of simmering ahead. Cooling them for only 20 minutes makes clean slicing easier. The cooking broth is strained, and exactly 1200 ml is reserved so the sauce has a defined consistency rather than being diluted by the whole stockpot.
The saft begins with a substantial quantity of onion. It softens in lard, then smoked bacon renders into the base. Flour is cooked only to pale gold. Paprika is especially sensitive: when it hits very hot fat for too long, it darkens and turns bitter. Taking the pot briefly off direct heat before stirring in paprika and garlic protects their colour and aroma.
Tomato juice and reserved broth are whisked in gradually so the roux stays smooth. Once the sliced tripe returns, a 30-minute gentle simmer gives the sauce time to coat the strips rather than sit as a separate gravy. The finished consistency is glossy and spoonable, thick enough to cling but not so dense that it piles like paste.
This is also a dish where cooling discipline matters. A pot of tripe and thick sauce retains heat for a long time, so leftovers should be divided into shallow containers within 2 hours and kept at 4 °C or colder. On reheating, bring the portion to at least 74 °C rather than warming it lazily at the edge of the stove.