Penne All Arrabbiata

A dish of Roman temperament and culinary restraint, Penne all’Arrabbiata speaks in the assertive dialect of Lazio’s cucina povera—bold, unadorned, and purposeful. Its name, meaning “angry penne,” refers not to chaos but to the deliberate heat imparted by red chili peppers, tempered by the sweetness of ripe tomatoes and the steady presence of garlic. Prepared with ingredients as familiar as they are expressive—350 grams of penne rigate, 400 grams of peeled tomatoes (fresh if the season allows, canned when it does not), two chili peppers, one clove of garlic, and a modest measure of olive oil—the recipe unfolds without ceremony. The tomatoes, blanched and peeled, break down slowly in a pan warmed by olive oil infused with crushed garlic and finely chopped chili. Salt is added sparingly, not to dominate but to balance. Meanwhile, the pasta is cooked until just short of tender, then united with the sauce, allowing the ridged penne to catch the fiery glaze in each hollow and groove. A handful of fresh parsley offers color and a trace of brightness. Pecorino Romano—grated with restraint—is optional but common, bringing salinity and depth. The dish is best served hot, accompanied by crusty bread and a bitter salad of field greens. Heat may be scaled to one’s temperament, though the spirit of arrabbiata calls for at least a little sting.