Retortillat de l’Aubrac — browned potatoes with Tome fraîche, garlic and parsley
Retortillat belongs to the potato-and-fresh-tome cooking of Aubrac, but it should not be collapsed into the better-known aligot or into Cantal truffade. The potatoes remain as slices rather than being mashed into a purée, and the cheese goes in only at the end. The finished pan should show distinct golden potatoes coated and connected by molten Tome fraîche de l’Aubrac, with garlic and parsley sharpening the rich combination.
The potato stage is built in two temperatures. Five-millimetre slices first brown in 40 g duck fat over medium-high heat, which creates the golden surfaces that would be lost if the potatoes were simply steamed. The heat is then lowered, the pan covered and the potatoes gently tenderized for 15 minutes. They are ready for the cheese when a knife passes through the thickest slice with little resistance but the slices can still be turned without crumbling.
Tome fraîche is young, moist and highly meltable, so it needs a different treatment from a hard grating cheese. Bring the 300 g tome to room temperature and cut it into strips before cooking. Once the potatoes are tender and seasoned with garlic, lower the pan to low heat and fold the tome through for about 5 minutes. The cheese should become elastic and coat the slices. Vigorous beating would turn the potatoes toward a mashed texture and erase the distinction that matters here.


