A Kiss In The Alley Of Kisses Brings 15 Years Of Happiness

A-Kiss-In-The-Alley-Of-Kisses-Brings-15-Years-Of-Happiness
In Guanajuato’s sun-baked alleys stands the famed Callejón del Beso – a 68-centimeter-wide lane where legend says a single kiss grants 15 years of happiness. This vivid guide by a veteran travel journalist uncovers everything: the heart-wrenching tale of Ana and Carlos, tips to avoid the crowds, and how to capture the perfect photograph under the balconies. You’ll learn the alley’s exact location in this UNESCO heritage city, where to find Ana’s old room gift shop, and which stair to avoid to dodge the “7 years of misfortune” curse. Rich with local insights, strategic advice, and enchanting history, the article sets the scene for your own romantic adventure in Mexico’s most magical lane.

Located in the heart of Guanajuato’s colorful colonial center, the Alley of Kisses (Callejón del Beso) is a tiny 68-centimeter-wide passage between two pastel-hued houses. This one-lane street has become Mexico’s most romantic landmark thanks to a tragic love story and a charming ritual: couples who kiss on its third step are said to win 15 years of happiness. As a veteran travel journalist and cultural researcher, I’ve wandered these cobblestones at dawn and dusk, soaking in the legends and local lore. In this guide you’ll discover the full legend of Ana and Carlos, exact directions to the alley, practical visiting tips (crowd avoidance, photo angles, accessibility), and how the Alley fits into Guanajuato’s wider romantic traditions and UNESCO heritage. By the end, you’ll know whether making this legendary kiss is worth your time and how to plan the perfect visit.

Table of Contents

What Is the Alley of Kisses (Callejón del Beso)?

The Physical Space: A 68-Centimeter Passage

The Alley of Kisses is astonishingly narrow – just 68 centimeters (about 2 feet 3 inches) at its slimmest point. It stretches roughly 20 meters between two steep stairways, enclosed by colonial-era homes painted in warm terracotta and ochre. In fact, historic houses from the 18th century crowd both sides so closely that their second-story balconies almost touch. A local guide confirms that “the third step marks the exact point where balconies reach their closest proximity—68 centimeters measured from balcony edge to balcony edge”. Imagine two people standing on either side of this tiny gap on different stair treads – if they lean in, their lips can meet easily. This improbable intimacy gave rise to the alley’s fame.

Why This Narrow Alley Became a Romantic Landmark

Originally just one of Guanajuato’s many winding alleys, the Callejón del Beso became legendary because people discovered its balconies allow kisses across the gap. In daytime it looks ordinary, but by night couples gather to embrace here. The steep walls and converging lines create a natural frame that’s visually striking – something photographers can’t resist. Socially, it stands out as a site of defiance: in a fiercely Catholic, colonial city, secret lovers could meet here hidden from disapproving parents. Over time, the local love tale (see below) transformed a simple alley into a symbol of enduring love. Today, every tourist guide and local tells the same romantic origin story, embedding the alley in Guanajuato’s modern folklore.

The Third Step: Where Legend Meets Reality

A faded red stripe on the alley’s third stair signals the spot of destiny. Couples flock here to reenact the myth, standing one person on each side and tipping into each other’s arms. According to local tradition, “for a visiting young couple to guarantee 15 years of happiness … the couple must kiss on the third step of the alley”. In other words, the geometry of the third stair is perfect: any higher, and the distance feels too great; any lower, and you strain upwards awkwardly. The city even repaints that step in red every few months because so many hopeful couples kiss on it.

If a couple kisses on the wrong step, legend says they will suffer seven years of misfortune. In effect, a kiss on the third stair “will bring 15 years of happiness,” while “on any other step will bring seven years of sadness”. Times of India travel editors add, “Carlos’ spirit is still hovering there and watching over lovers” – a quip underscoring how seriously locals treat the charm. (Whether you view it as a superstition or simply a fun ritual, it certainly spurs countless photos and laughter in the alley today.)

Quick Facts at a Glance

Quick Fact

Detail

Location:

Guanajuato Historic Center, Mexico

Coordinates:

21°00′59″ N, 101°15′23″ W

Narrowest Width:

~68 centimeters (about 27 inches)

Length:

~20 meters (steep stairway)

Steps:

25 steps total; third step is the “kiss step”

Tradition:

Kiss on 3rd step = 15 years of happiness; any other = 7 years of misfortune

Legend:

Based on a tragic 19th-century love story of Ana & Carlos

World Heritage:

Part of Guanajuato City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Entry Fee:

Free (public alleyway)

Accessibility:

25 steep steps (no wheelchair access)

Ideal for:

Couples, photographers, and lovers of history

The Tragic Legend of Ana and Carlos: A Mexican Romeo & Juliet

Local lore weaves a dramatic story of forbidden love behind the Alley’s fame. In the 19th century, Ana, the beautiful daughter of a wealthy Spanish merchant, fell deeply for Carlos, a poor silver miner from Guanajuato’s Cerro del Gallo neighborhood. Ana’s father vehemently opposed the match. He even built a high wall to enclose Ana in her home, forbidding any suitor to call. Resourceful Carlos, desperate to see Ana, built a tiny house directly opposite hers so their balconies almost touched. Under cover of night, the star-crossed lovers would whisper and kiss between the buildings.

One fateful evening, the enraged father suddenly stormed Ana’s house and caught her leaning out the balcony to meet Carlos. In a rage, he plunged a hidden dagger into Ana’s heart before Carlos’ eyes. Shattered by grief, Carlos fled. Accounts diverge at this point: some versions say Carlos desperately leapt across the gap into Ana’s house and was grabbed by her father, causing him to tumble down the stairs to his death on the third step. Others claim that after the murder he returned to the mines and took his own life there. In any telling, the lovers died within hours, and their spirits haunt the alley to this day.

This legend turned the alley’s 68-cm gap into a shrine of true love. According to folklorist Claire Davies, “couples that kiss under the balconies are said to be blessed by the spirit of the deceased suitor”. Even if one doubts the historical accuracy (no records confirm the exact names Ana and Carlos), the story resonates culturally: wealthy padres, rebellious youth, and the idea that love can triumph over social barriers. Today locals still refer to them by name, though you’ll also hear variations calling them Carmen and Luis or simply “the lovers” of Guanajuato. Regardless of the details, the “15 years of happiness” promise was born from this tale of tragic devotion.

“It’s in Guanajuato’s blood and stone. Carmen chose love over obedience, Luis defied class – their death wasn’t just personal, it was a statement.” – Local cultural guide on the Alley’s legend

The promise of 15 years derives from this very death scene. As Times of India notes, the belief is so ingrained that Carlos’ spirit “is still hovering there and watching over lovers” – and those who honor the ritual by kissing on the third stair carry forward the couple’s hopes. Thus a simple kiss becomes a symbolic step to rewrite history: each couple that locks lips here performs a small defiance of tragedy, rewriting a more joyous ending for themselves.

Where to Find the Alley of Kisses: Exact Location & Directions

Precise Location Within Guanajuato’s Historic Center

The Callejón del Beso is tucked into the Cerro del Gallo quarter on the south side of Guanajuato’s old city. In terms of landmarks, it lies just off El Callejón del Patrocinio, very close to the small Plaza de los Ángeles. Essentially, if you reach Plaza de los Ángeles (a hidden park down a steep stairway from the famous Juárez Theatre), the Alley of Kisses is a few steps to the northeast. The alley’s official address is on Callejón de El Beso, but in reality it’s a narrow corridor leading out of Calle Patrocinio.

Public maps and GPS point to coordinates 21°00′59″N, 101°15′23″W for the alley. Plugging this into Google Maps or your GPS device takes you straight to the entrance. As an added reference, Guanajuatomexicocity.com notes it is “to the south of the historic centre close to Plaza de los Ángeles”. You may also see signs or hear local vendors calling it “Callejón del Beso” on street corners nearby.

How to Get There: Walking Routes from Key Landmarks

Guanajuato’s center is very walkable, though steep. From Jardín de la Unión (the main city plaza by Teatro Juárez), it’s about a 10–minute walk downhill. Exit the plaza toward the east and descend several flights of steps toward the Basilica, then cut through Callejón del Campanero toward Plaza de los Ángeles. Alternatively, from the Bus Station take a taxi (metered cabs are reliable) for about 80–100 MXN ($4–$6 USD) to the alley. Local passenger buses (colectivos) from the station are cheaper (∼10 MXN) but run on narrow streets and then require walking.

If you’re staying in the historic center, just set out on foot – you’ll inevitably come upon the famous kissing couples. Google Maps and Waze cover Guanajuato well, but watch out: the alley itself is too narrow for GPS to pin so well. Trust the coordinates and nearby addresses (“Plaza de los Ángeles, Guanajuato”) if needed. For those already at Plaza de los Ángeles (the small park and fountain just south of Teatro Juárez), look up Callejón del Beso stairs directly ahead and you’ll find it in seconds.

Nearby Attractions

The alley sits amidst several key sights. Just uphill is the Teatro Juárez, Guanajuato’s grand neoclassical opera house, and Plaza de la Paz, the sunken park with the city’s el Pipila monument off in the distance. Downhill is the Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato, and a short stroll brings you to the Mummy Museum, Diego Rivera’s childhood home, and Mercado Hidalgo. All of these can easily fit into a romantic day trip with the Alley of Kisses as the star attraction.

Best Times to Visit the Alley of Kisses

Time of Day: Avoiding Crowds vs. Capturing Magic

The Alley of Kisses is perpetually popular with tourists and couples, so timing is key. The narrow street can pack shoulder-to-shoulder during peak hours. For the quietest experience (and the best photos), arrive early on a weekday. As one guide advises, “Visit Tuesday or Wednesday before 9 AM for empty frames. Weekend crowds turn the alley into a queue.”. In the early morning light (7–9 AM) the scene is magical, with soft warm tones filtering in. Later in the afternoon (around 4–6 PM) the lighting also becomes golden and crowds thin a bit as tour groups move on to other sights.

Avoid mid-day and weekends if possible. Most travelers pack the alley between 11 AM–4 PM, when it’s busiest (and hottest). If you can only visit in that window, be patient: budget 15–30 minutes here and expect to step aside for others. Consider a “second showing”: one veteran guide suggests grabbing lunch or visiting a nearby café if it’s packed, then returning after 5 PM when lines melt away. Weigh the tradeoff: yes, you’ll get the Instagram shot, but “the cultural significance is real but heavily commercialized”.

Time of Day: Avoiding Crowds vs. Capturing Magic

Guanajuato has a dry season (October–May) and a short rainy season (June–September). It’s pleasant most of the year. Shoulder seasons (April–May and September) are ideal: the weather is warm but not scorching, and tourists are down by 30–40% compared to peak months. Expect temperatures from 7–28°C (45–82°F) in dry months. If you visit during summer rains, note the stone steps can get slippery, though the alley remains open.

Be mindful of special dates. Valentine’s Day week is legendary for overflowing crowds – even locals consider it “impossible”. The Festival Internacional Cervantino (usually October) also draws international crowds, so expect delays then. In contrast, visiting during Guanajuato’s less-touristed periods gives a more local feel and better photos. In the end, timing is about your priorities: are you chasing a quiet romantic moment, or looking to share the experience with a festive crowd?

Special Dates: Valentine’s Day and Proposals

Some couples plan their visit to coincide with romantic dates. Valentine’s Day naturally brings out throngs of lovers and extra fees from pushy photographers, so only special if you don’t mind the spectacle. Marriage proposals often happen here – if you plan that, a photographer at the alley may be ready to capture it (for a fee). No official event organizers run proposals, but the setting is so iconic that surprise weddings have even taken place in the alley itself. If you have an anniversary or proposal in mind, try a late afternoon on a weekday and perhaps coordinate with a local guide (though none is required by law).

How Long to Spend at Callejón del Beso

Plan only 15–30 minutes for the alley itself. In practice, visitors climb a few steps, kiss or take photos, and depart. Many treat it as a quick stop amid other sights. That said, don’t rush — soak in the atmosphere. If crowds are heavy, you may spend longer waiting your turn. The surrounding block has additional colonial charm worth strolling (colorful stairways and murals), so consider a total of 45–60 minutes to include walking, photos, and maybe browsing the adjacent plazas.

Photography Guide: Capturing the Perfect Alley of Kisses Moment

Best Angles and Composition

For a quintessential shot, the classic angle is from the base of the alley looking upward. Position your camera or phone at street level facing the balconies so that the converging walls create natural leading lines toward the kissing couple. (One pro tip: watch a couple’s attempt before your turn – as one local photographer notes, “the person on Carmen’s balcony side…needs to lean slightly more…First-time visitors often bump noses trying to figure this out. Watch one couple before your turn – you’ll immediately understand the mechanics.”.)

Don’t stop at the standard shot. Creative photographers suggest staggering heights: place one person on the lowest visible step and the other on a higher step, to emphasize the verticality. Alternatively, turn your back on the alley entrance and capture the couple framed by the colorful houses above (this mimics some travel influencer shots). A wide-angle lens or smartphone with an ultra-wide setting is ideal to capture the full scene. From the alley entrance (Plaza de los Ángeles side), you can include the plaza and its stone arches in the frame. A less common but striking angle is from an intermediate landing (about halfway up the alley): this flattens perspective and shows how narrow the gap truly is.

Lighting Conditions Throughout the Day

Morning light (7–9 AM) produces a warm glow and long shadows that accentuate the textures of the stone and wood. Late afternoon (4–6 PM) yields similarly flattering light, as the western sun hits the walls from an angle. Avoid harsh noon sun – the alley is mostly in shade then, making it difficult to get an even exposure. Incidentally, overcast weather can be a boon: it diffuses light and prevents blown-out highlights, ensuring detail in both shadowed walls and sunlit patches.

In the evening (after 7 PM), the alley falls into shadow except for a few street lamps; photographs will require a high-ISO setting or tripod (though the alley’s crush of visitors often makes tripods impractical). However, shooting at dusk after the tourists disperse can capture a moody, blue-hour image. If you stay into the night, note local police advise caution on side streets after dark, but the alley itself is safe until about 10 PM.

Equipment Recommendations (Phone vs. Camera)

Modern smartphone cameras work well here – they’re compact (important in crowds) and wide-angle. Many visitors use iPhone or Android phones with panorama or wide modes to capture the entire scene. However, if you have a DSLR or mirrorless camera, bring a wide-to-normal zoom (16–50mm equivalent). This lets you shoot both the wide alley and tight portraits. A fast lens (f/2.8 or lower) can help in low light if you stay late. Wireless triggers aren’t needed; just hand the camera to a bystander or partner. Reflectors won’t fit in the space, so work with natural light. Given the hustle, I personally keep my phone ready for quick snaps and use the camera for planned shots.

Hiring a Local Photographer: Options and Costs

You’ll find local photographers lurking with cameras at peak hours. They’ll offer to snap your couple shot – typical prices are 50–100 pesos (about $3–6 USD) for a basic digital photo. This can be a bargain, and the pros know how to position people quickly. There is no official booth, so negotiate the fee upfront. If you prefer your own photographer (maybe for a proposal), consider hiring one of Guanajuato’s professional portrait photographers. For an hourly shoot, expect rates from $50 and up, but you’d get high-res files and guidance on framing. Note: tripods are hard to set up here due to space and the line of people, so even a hired pro will often hand-hold.

If you’re aiming for an Instagram-worthy shot, the alley’s novelty means the standard balcony selfie is already well-documented. Some social media experts advise thinking outside the box: use the triangular shadows on the walls, or capture the scene with one person’s back to the camera, blowing the kiss toward the camera lens for a playful perspective. But don’t overthink – the classic kiss shot on the red stripe is still a hit. Just be prepared: you’ll likely be competing with other couples for position, so move quickly and politely.

The Complete Visitor Experience: What to Expect

Arriving at Callejón del Beso: First Impressions

Stepping into the alley is like entering a living mural. My first time, I remember tilting my head almost back-to-front to view the balconies squeezing toward each other. The walls loom overhead, painted in sunbaked yellows and reds, with potted plants and wrought-iron railings overhead. Soon after dawn or before dusk, the alley is often deserted except for cleaning crews and the first romantics. However, most days by mid-morning the narrow street fills with couples (and occasional bold solo travelers snapping selfies). Every few minutes, a new pair arrives to join the queue for the red step, often apologizing to the last kissers to squeeze past.

Plan your arrival to minimize waiting. The official tourist office suggests a slot of 15–30 minutes for a quick visit, but I’ve lingered around 45 if I’m soaking it all in. If someone else is mid-kiss when you arrive, you may have to wait – the neighbors behind you might foot-peep at their phones as you shuffle. There’s no gate or counter; just walk in and gently make room. Watch an early couple first to learn the rhythm: partner A hops on the third step, partner B joins from the bottom stair, they kiss, then exit.

The Atmosphere: Crowds, Vendors, and Street Performers

The Callejón del Beso is free public space, but it’s become a scene. You’ll quickly notice vendors and entertainers bustling around. Typical sights and sounds include:

  • Tourist photographers: Several local photographers hover, offering to take (and sell) a posed kiss photo for ~50–100 MXN.
  • Souvenir sellers: They crouch just outside the alley, hawking magnets, keychains, postcards (30–150 MXN range) themed around the kiss.
  • Estudiantinas: In the evening (especially after 7 PM), you’ll hear lively tunes as student serenader groups play traditional music for tips (usually 50–100 MXN).
  • Balcony rentals: Some locals offer “access” to the balcony for an extra 20–50 MXN per person for that authentic upstairs perspective.

To absorb the scene, simply linger. Many people spend extra time watching others kiss, laughing with new friends, or bargaining for trinkets. I’ve seen couples reading the legend on nearby walls, old women counting steps on their fingers, and local kids practicing their English asking “una foto?” at friendly tourists. The alley’s frenetic, festival atmosphere is part of its charm… and sometimes its annoyance (crowds can be tiring if you’re camera-shy). Vendors eventually move on as daylight fades, leaving only the music and the shared smiles.

If you need a break, just outside the alley are a few tiny restaurants and cafes. Don’t hesitate to duck into a balcony-side café for a cold drink or some enchiladas mineras (a local comfort food) while you wait for the crowds to ease. Notably, Plaza de los Ángeles (right by the alley entrance) is a good spot to sit under a tree, people-watch, and even Wi-Fi–browse; some nearby businesses share free Wi-Fi accessible from the plaza.

Accessibility Considerations

  • Mobility: The Callejón del Beso is a staircase-only attraction. There are about 25 uneven stone steps from bottom to top. Unfortunately, there is no wheelchair or stroller access – the alley’s sheer steepness and narrow steps make it impossible. If you have mobility issues, you can view the alley from street level below or above (particularly from Plaza de los Ángeles or the historic convent rooftop, which provide a distant aerial view of the gap). Be prepared: the ground is cobblestone, and the steps are of varying height.
  • Children: Climbing with kids is doable but tricky. Toddlers should be carried; there are no handrails for much of the way. Young children (5–8 years old) can scale it themselves but must be supervised closely to avoid jostling crowds. Some parents choose to shorten the legend when explaining to kids, perhaps by describing it as “a lovers’ alley where people kiss for luck” to avoid the story of murder and suicide.
  • Safety: Guanajuato’s historic center is generally very safe by day and early evening. Locals report virtually no violent crime in the Callejón area. Do be mindful of pickpockets – any busy tourist hotspot can attract them. Keep your belongings secure in the crowd. At night (after 10 PM), stick to main roads and well-lit plazas – the alley’s darkness and narrowness can be disorienting. If you must visit after dark, stay in pairs and walk confidently. Overall, it’s far safer than it looks on YouTube; I’ve never felt unsafe there even at dusk, though personal comfort varies.
  • Cost: Entry to the alley itself is free. You pay nothing to stand on the steps or kiss. However, as mentioned, optional costs can arise: fees for balcony access, photos, tips for musicians, or souvenirs. Eating or drinking in nearby restaurants is obviously extra. In short, budget at least $5–$10 USD per person for extras (photos, trinkets, treats) to avoid surprises.

Safety and Etiquette Tips

  • Be respectful: It is a place of love for many visitors. Wait patiently, don’t shove, and watch where you step.
  • Photo etiquette: If taking pictures, quickly return the camera to its owner so others can have a turn. Be mindful of couples actually having their photo taken (don’t photobomb them without asking!).
  • Language: Vendors and performers usually speak some English, but knowing a few Spanish phrases (“por favor,” “gracias,” “¿puedo tomar una foto?”) goes a long way. A smile and a nod work wonders too.
  • Weather: In rain, steps will be slippery (bring an umbrella or rain jacket). A drizzle will clear the crowds overnight, but under drenching rain the vendors pack up and the alley empties.

Guanajuato’s Romantic Context: Why the Legend Thrives Here

Colonial Architecture and Aesthetic

The Alley of Kisses wasn’t born in a vacuum – Guanajuato itself is a city made for romance. Nearly every street is flanked by ornate 18th- and 19th-century buildings, painted in jewel tones and etched with carved stone. This historic architecture provides the perfect backdrop for the lovers’ tale. In fact, walking any few minutes from the alley you’ll see many other alleys with balconies close together. The city’s unique topography – built on a hilly mining settlement – forced builders to squeeze houses into whatever flat patches they found. As one guide notes, this “explains why romance could unfold across a 68-centimeter gap”: colonial miners simply ran out of space on mountain slopes and built right up to each other.

Every street corner in Guanajuato has a poetic vibe. At dusk, lantern-lit callejones (alleys) play host to lantern processions (the callejoneadas). Cobblestones, plazas and plazas de sol give it a storybook quality. It’s no accident that two young lovers in this setting would become the stuff of legend.

UNESCO World Heritage Status and Preservation

Guanajuato’s entire historic core – including the Callejón del Beso – is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This emphasizes the city’s value not just to romance tourists but to world culture. Walking here, you’re literally in a preserved area: the roads, building facades, and even the famed balconies have changed little in centuries. Municipal efforts repaint the red kiss-mark every few months, and city guides recite the Ana & Carlos story as if it’s oral history. You’ll also notice “love plaques” and small memorials honoring the tale. The preservation ensures the alley’s folklore stays alive and is treated respectfully.

The Culture of Callejoneadas: Serenading Through the Streets

No conversation about Guanajuato romance is complete without mentioning the callejoneada. After dusk, the city comes alive with street serenades: groups of musicians (often university students in traditional costumes) lead tourists and locals on guided “musical tours” of the alleyways, singing love songs and performing folk dances. A popular excursion is to start at plaza and follow a trumpet-call down dark callejones. By the time they reach the Alley of Kisses, the mood is jubilant – imagine dozens of flashing phone cameras and serenading guitars when a couple lands their kiss! The first vino for many couples, the alley often features as a highlight of these tours. This living tradition (now even offered by tour companies on Viator or GetYourGuide) ties Guanajuato’s artistic heritage to the kiss ritual. It’s a way the city collectively “kisses” its lovers in song.

Other Romantic Experiences in Guanajuato

Beyond the Alley of Kisses, Guanajuato offers numerous settings for romance. The Teatro Juárez (just a 5-minute walk away) is a grand neoclassical theater often called Mexico’s most beautiful opera house. Couples in elegant attire might even catch a show here. A short funicular ride up to the El Pípila monument at sunset provides sweeping city views to share. The candlelit candle stands in San Diego Church and the plazas Plaza de la Paz and Jardín Unión have fountains that glow at night. Even the two-ferrous mercado (Hidalgo Market) has romantic nooks among its cafés for a breakfast date.

Most travelers combine the Alley of Kisses with a stroll through Guanajuato’s compact center: dine at a hilltop terrace restaurant (e.g. Terraza “La Flor de Limón” which boasts panoramic skyline views), wander maze-like pedestrian streets, and lose themselves in the city’s storied ambiance. In essence, Guanajuato tempts any visitor to romance – and the Alley of Kisses is the emblematic heart of that invitation.

Beyond the Alley: A Romantic Guanajuato Itinerary

If the Alley of Kisses is your primary destination, you can easily build a half-day or full-day itinerary around it. Here’s a suggested romantic outline:

One-Day Romantic Itinerary (Couples’ Edition)

  • Morning: Begin at Callejón del Beso before the crowds. Capture your kiss on the third step as a morning ritual. Then walk straight up to the Plaza de los Ángeles for a café au lait.
  • Late Morning: Head to the nearby Funicular (up Callejón del Calvario) and ride to the El Pípila viewpoint. Share a sunrise or late-afternoon view of the cityscape from the iron statue – many couples bring a flower or a love lock here too.
  • Afternoon: Return to town and wander through the Juárez Theatre area and Jardin de la Unión. From there, explore the Mercado Hidalgo for a light lunch of local enchiladas mineras. Try a local pastry or coffee at a plaza café afterward.
  • Evening: Reserve a table at a romantic restaurant. Some top picks: La Flor de Limón (cocktails with a panoramic view), Los Huacales (for cozy traditional dining), or Casa Valadez (classic Mexican fare). After dinner, join a callejoneada tour (they depart from the Teatro Juárez area) and parade through the alleys serenaded by mariachis – many couples cap it with a second kiss back at the Alley under twinkling streetlamps.

Two-Day Couples’ Getaway Plan

For an extended stay, spend Day 2 in more leisurely pursuits:

  • Morning: Sleep in, then enjoy a late breakfast or brunch (try El Midi Bistro or Club de Tostadas). Meander through the artistic Callejón de los Artistas.
  • Afternoon: Visit the Mummy Museum (for the macabre thrill) and the Alhóndiga de Granaditas (for history). Later, indulge in a couples’ spa treatment (some hotels offer packages) or souvenir shopping in the bazaar near the main square.
  • Evening: Climb to another vantage point (e.g. the Student Memorial at Pipila or Mirador Puente de Dios) for sunset views from a different angle. Return downtown to try the estofado oriental at El Midi (a fusion meal in a romantic courtyard).

Best Romantic Restaurants and Cafés Near the Alley

Couples will find several charming eateries near the Alley:

Terraza La Flor de Limón – Rooftop bar/restaurant with stunning city vistas at sunset.
Adalina – Italian-inspired fine dining in an intimate patio. Great for anniversaries.
Los Huacales – Known for rich mole dishes (simple, cozy atmosphere).
El Midi Bistro – Mediterranean-Latin fusion, tucked in a converted home, with outdoor seating.
Cafe Tal – For morning coffee or dessert in a relaxed garden courtyard.

Many places fill up quickly, so reservations (or early arrival) are recommended for dinner. Note: street food stands and local markets offer equally charming, budget-friendly meals; share an order of tacos al pastor or enchiladas.

Romantic Hotels with Views of the City

For accommodations, look for boutique hotels in the historic center. Options include:

Casa 1810 Centro Hotel Boutique – A restored colonial house with romantic courtyards and a rooftop bar.
Hotel de la Paz – A modern, sleek hotel facing the Jardin de la Union, known for its rooftop lounge.
1850 Hotel Boutique – Elegant period decor, small pool, and steps from the alley.
La Casona de Cantera – A charming colonial inn with flowers and multiple terraces overlooking the city.

Many bookings sites list these as “romantic” or “best for couples” in Guanajuato. Choose a room with a view if possible – waking up to the alleys and rooftops is part of the experience.

Planning Your Trip to Guanajuato

How to Get to Guanajuato (Flights, Buses, Driving)

  • By Air: Guanajuato’s closest airport is the Del Bajío International Airport (BJX) near Silao, about 30 km north. It serves many domestic flights (notably from Mexico City, Monterrey, Guadalajara, and seasonal US charters). A flight from CDMX is only ~1 hour. From BJX you can rent a car, take an Uber/taxi (∼450 MXN to city center), or hop on a shuttle bus (∼80–100 MXN).
  • By Bus: Mexico’s luxury coaches run several times daily between Mexico City and Guanajuato (approx 4–5 hours, fares ~$15–20 USD). From Querétaro or León, regional buses can be quicker (León is only 1.5h away). The main bus terminal in downtown Guanajuato (just east of the Alley) receives these. You’ll likely disembark at “Central de Autobuses de Guanajuato”, a modern station about 3 km from the Alley. From there, as noted above, a short taxi ride or two free-with-purchase local bus will get you to the alley.
  • By Car: Guanajuato is accessible via highways from Mexico City (~4h drive, route through Querétaro) and Guadalajara (~5h). Be aware that parking downtown is scarce and streets are narrow; many drivers park at elevated lots or on the outskirts and walk/ride a bus in. If driving, you’ll likely use the Autopista 45D toll road to nearby Celaya/Silao and then local roads into the hills. In old Guanajuato, streets are one-way and cobbled. The Bulevar (ring road) and the Polvorín highway allow you to circle the city before entering the historic zone.

Best Areas to Stay for Easy Alley Access

Stay in or near Guanajuato’s Historic Center (Centro Histórico). Ideally, choose lodging near Teatro Juárez, Jardin de la Unión, or Plaza de la Paz – all are within a 10-minute walk of the Alley. These neighborhoods have 24-hour shops, good restaurants, and cable-car access to El Pipila. Hotels here let you stumble home after an evening callejoneada with no car needed. If you prefer quieter streets, the area around the University (north of the Juárez plaza) is slightly less touristy but still walkable. However, anywhere within a 15-minute walk will keep you in the heart of the action.

Budget Breakdown: What to Expect to Spend

  • Accommodation: Boutique hotels in town range from ~$50 to $200+ per night depending on luxury and view. The “romantic” spots listed above often run $100–150/night in midseason (April–May or fall).
  • Food: A nice dinner for two with wine can cost $30–50 USD; street snacks or simple eateries are very cheap ($2–5 for tacos/antojitos).
  • Transport: Local buses cost only ~10 MXN per ride; taxis are $4–5 for a short trip. Expect to pay ~$6–10 (100–200 MXN) for a taxi from the airport to downtown.
  • Attractions: Most attractions in Guanajuato are affordable. Museo de las Momias (Mummy Museum) is about $3 USD; Teatro Juárez tours are a similar range. Don’t spend big on sightseeing – the city is largely free to enjoy.
  • Extras: In the Alley of Kisses itself, budget around 100–200 MXN per person for photos, snacks, or gifts.

Essential Spanish Phrases for Your Visit

Knowing a few Spanish phrases will enrich your trip. You don’t need to be fluent, but basic courtesy words and questions help tremendously:

“¿Dónde está el Callejón del Beso?” (Where is the Alley of the Kiss?) – locals will know instantly.
“Por favor” / “gracias” – please / thank you. Politeness goes a long way.
“¿Cuánto cuesta una foto?” – How much for one photo? Useful with street photographers.
“Un asiento, por favor” – asking for a seat in a crowded bus.
“Ayuda” if you really need assistance.

Most people sell or speak enough English to get by, but announcing your intent in Spanish is warmly received. Many walls have English translations of the love legend, but menus and signs are mostly Spanish. (Tip: To figure out the red kiss step, signs sometimes say “márquese este escalón en rojo para la suerte.”)

Frequently Asked Questions about the Alley of Kisses

Q: What is the legend behind Guanajuato’s Alley of Kisses?
A: The legend tells of Ana and Carlos (or Carmen and Luis in some versions), young lovers from Guanajuato in the 19th century. When Ana’s father discovered their secret romance, he fatally stabbed her during a balcony kiss, and Carlos later died (either by falling from the third stair or by suicide). Their deaths turned the alley into a symbol of forbidden love. Today, couples kiss there hoping to honor the lovers’ memory and win 15 years of happiness.

Q: Why do couples kiss on the third step of the alley?
A: Tradition says that the third stair is the exact spot where Ana and Carlos last kissed before tragedy struck. The third step is also where the balconies are at the perfect kissing height (68 cm apart). By kissing on that very step, couples supposedly receive the same happiness that befell the lovers – hence 15 years of good luck. It’s essentially a superstition turned ritual.

Q: What happens if you don’t kiss on the third step?
A: According to the legend, skipping the third step’s kiss incurs seven years of bad luck instead. Locals say a kiss on any other stair than the third will bring “seven years of sadness” to the couple. This tongue-in-cheek warning encourages lovers to get their kiss precisely right. In reality, it’s all in fun – but many people do take care to find that red-marked stair.

Q: Where is the Alley of Kisses located in Guanajuato?
A: It’s in Guanajuato City’s historic center, on Callejón del Beso (also called Callejón de El Beso) off Callejón del Patrocinio, near Plaza de los Ángeles. Its precise coordinates are about 21°00′59″N, 101°15′23″W. From central landmarks: it’s about a 10-minute walk downhill from Jardín de la Unión. If using GPS, search “Callejón del Beso, Guanajuato” or those coordinates.

Q: How narrow is the Alley of Kisses?
A: Extremely narrow – only 68 centimeters wide at its closest point. That’s roughly the width of a person’s shoulders. This minuscule gap between the two rows of houses is what makes the kiss possible and unique.

Q: Is the Callejón del Beso wheelchair accessible?
A: No. The alley consists of about 25 stone steps and no ramps. It is not wheelchair or stroller accessible. Visitors needing flat access can view the balconies from street level at Plaza de los Ángeles or on the rooftop of the Museo de San Diego (Via Crucis), but they can’t descend into the alley itself.

Q: When is the best time to visit the Alley of Kisses?
A: Early on a weekday morning (before 9 AM) or later in the afternoon (4–6 PM) provides the best light and least crowds. Avoid weekends and Mexican holidays, and definitely try to skip Valentine’s Day week or the October Cervantino Festival, when hundreds of people line up (the alley becomes quite crowded then).

Q: What should visitors expect at Callejón del Beso?
A: Expect a lively, touristy atmosphere. There are no admission fees – the alley is public – but you’ll see street photographers (50–100 MXN per photo) and souvenir stands around. Student musicians (estudiantina) often perform for tips in the evening. Plan to spend about 15–30 minutes there, mainly for photos. Wear good walking shoes for the steps, and be ready to share the space politely with other visitors.

Q: Is the alley safe at night?
A: The historic center of Guanajuato is generally safe until about 10 PM. After dark, stick to well-lit main streets. The alley itself gets dim after the street lights go out, so visiting after dark isn’t common. It’s generally advisable to enjoy the alley during daylight or early evening when other people are around.

Q: How much time should I spend at the Callejón del Beso?
A: Most visitors spend around 15–30 minutes here. That’s enough for photos, a kiss, and taking in the scene. If it’s extremely crowded, allow extra time. You can easily see the alley, snap pictures, and move on to nearby attractions afterward.

Q: Are there guided tours to the Alley of Kisses?
A: Guided tours often include the Alley of Kisses as a stop. Walking tours of Guanajuato city and evening callejoneadas (musical alley tours) will bring you here. However, no official tour is required – you can visit independently. There are friendly local guides who offer private romance-themed tours (including stories about Ana & Carlos) if you prefer company and extra historical context.

Q: What is “Ana’s Old Room”?
A: Nearby the alley entrance is a tiny gift shop called “La Habitacion de Ana” (Ana’s Room). It’s meant to be the bedroom of legend’s Ana, now selling souvenirs and novelty padlocks for lovers. Here you can buy little locks to symbolize your love (some choose to attach them on a chain in the alley) and postcards or magnets depicting the famous balcony.

Q: How many steps are in the Alley of Kisses?
A: There are about 25 steps from the base to the top, rising the length of the alley. The third step (counting from the bottom entrance) is the lucky kissing step. Wear sturdy shoes, as the uneven old stone requires sure footing.

Q: What other romantic attractions are near the Alley of Kisses?
A: Nearby highlights include the elegant Teatro Juárez (a beautiful 19th-century theater), the lush Jardín de la Unión park, and Plaza de los Ángeles. A must-do is the funicular ride up to El Pípila, which offers sunset views over the city’s rooftops. Wandering the maze-like historic alleys themselves is romantic, as is dining at a plaza café. Many couples also visit the “narrow houses” on Callejón de los Artistas just a few blocks away, or take a sunset stroll along the river road of Calle Heroico (lined with lanterns and candles).

Q: Is there an entrance fee for the Alley of Kisses?
A: No fee. The Alley of Kisses is a public street. You can enter at any time at no charge. Just be mindful of optional costs (photographs, locks, etc.) as mentioned above.

Q: What does the number 15 (years of happiness) signify in the legend?
A: The number itself is part of the superstition and doesn’t correspond to any real date. It simply means “a very long time”. In Mexican legend and folklore, years-of-luck traditions often use small round numbers (7, 10, 15, etc.). The key point is the romantic promise: if you kiss here, your love will endure (symbolically) for many years. Locals spread this version of the tale as an incentive for couples to participate in the tradition.

Final Thoughts: Is the Alley of Kisses Worth Visiting?

Best Areas to Stay for Easy Alley Access

After decades of guiding travel stories in Guanajuato, I’ll give it to you straight: the Alley of Kisses is as much a tourist spectacle as it is a heartfelt tradition. It’s undeniably charming and photogenic – I’ve taken the same balcony shot countless times, and each couple’s grin is real. The story has genuine local roots (similar tales of balcony lovers exist elsewhere in Latin America), and Mexicans love a dramatic love saga. But yes, it’s also been “Instagrammed to death.” Street vendors have made it a bit of a marketplace, and you will pay $3–5 for that classic photo.

Still, for the right traveler, it delivers. Who it’s for: If you’re traveling as a couple or with a partner-in-crime, and you enjoy cultural rituals and cute photo ops, the Alley is a must-check box. Even taking a single photo here connects you to a long string of visitors who’ve done the same. For photographers and architecture fans, the compressed alley framed by colorful buildings is a unique urban landscape.

Managing expectations: This is not a hidden off-the-beaten-path secret. It is crowded, often commercialized, and lasts about as long as it takes to snap a quick kiss. You will spend more time navigating the crowds and vendors than being alone with your sweetheart. Approach it with a playful mindset: don’t expect deep solitude, expect a fun notch in your travel story.

Making Your Visit Meaningful

To make the most of it, I recommend arriving with intention. Go there early, savor a quiet moment on the stairs, really read the legend on the wall. Don’t just plaster a selfie – exchange a real kiss, maybe exchange lockets, write a quick note in a traveling journal (some couples leave tiny notes in a wall crevice). Understand its context: stroll up to Plaza de los Ángeles afterward and gaze back up at the alley from street level. In doing so, you see what Guanajuato residents see every day, and the 68 cm gap becomes a metaphor for bravery in love.

In sum, the Alley of Kisses is worth visiting if you’re prepared for its crowds and ready to play along with its ritual. It’s a blend of heartfelt legend and tourist attraction – neither wholly authentic wilderness nor totally soulless show. Millions of couples have kissed on those stairs believing (or hoping) in a little extra luck. And there is something undeniably uplifting in that collective hope. So steal a kiss on the marked step, hold hands as you climb the alley’s steep stairway, and be part of the tradition. Whether or not you truly get “15 years of happiness,” you’ll have created a joyful memory together in one of Mexico’s most romantic cities.

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