Exploring the Secrets of Ancient Alexandria
History destinationsFrom Alexander the Great's inception to its modern form, the city has stayed a lighthouse of knowledge, variety, and beauty. Its ageless appeal stems from…
Afghanistan occupies a broad expanse of highlands and basins where mountain peaks give way, in places, to flat or gently rolling terrain. The Hindu Kush range, an offshoot of the Himalayas, cleaves the country from northeast to west, its ridges capped by snow and ice. To the north of these elevations lie the Turkestan Plains, a sweep of grassland and semi-desert softly sloping toward the Amu Darya. In the southwest, the Sistan Basin spreads below wind-scoured dunes. Kabul, set in a narrow valley at the eastern edge of the Hindu Kush, serves as the capital and the largest urban centre. Across some 652,864 square kilometres, population estimates vary between 36 and 50 million, distributed among cities, villages and nomadic camps.
Human presence here reaches into the Middle Paleolithic, but the threads of recorded history begin as the land became a conduit for empires. From the Achaemenid Persians and Alexander’s armies to the Mauryan sovereigns, the region shifted among rulers drawn by its strategic position. Arab incursions in the seventh century brought Islam, yet Buddhist monasteries and Hindu temples endured in many valleys before fading. By the fourth century, Hellenistic influences persisted in Greco-Bactrian realms, and centuries later, the Mughals would rise from local foundations to forge an empire extending into the Indian subcontinent.
In the mid-eighteenth century, Ahmad Shah Durrani consolidated Pashtun tribes and Afghan principalities into what is often termed the Durrani Empire, the antecedent of the modern state. Successive Afghan rulers navigated pressures from the British in India and from Tsarist Russia in the north. The First Anglo-Afghan War of 1839 ended in an Afghan victory; the second, a decade later, in a temporary British ascendancy; the third, in 1919, with a treaty that returned full sovereignty. Monarchy followed under Amanullah Khan in 1926, enduring until 1973, when Zahir Shah’s cousin deposed him and installed a republic.
The late twentieth century proved turbulent. A 1978 coup installed a socialist government; Soviet troops arrived in December 1979 to shore up the regime. Afghan fighters, or mujahideen, drew support from abroad and forced a Soviet withdrawal in 1989, yet internecine clashes persisted. In 1996, the Taliban consolidated control under an Islamic emirate unrecognised by most nations. The United States led a coalition in 2001 that deposed the movement’s leadership in response to global terrorism. Two decades of international military presence ensued, punctuated by efforts at state-building and negotiated settlements. In August 2021, the Taliban again assumed authority, seizing Kabul and drawing sanctions that froze central-bank assets. As of early 2025, that administration remains largely isolated, its restrictions on women and reports of human-rights abuses forestalling recognition.
Beneath its rugged relief, Afghanistan holds deposits of lithium, copper, iron and zinc among other minerals. Cultivation yields the world’s second-largest volume of cannabis resin and ranks third in saffron and cashmere output. Yet infrastructural damage from decades of conflict, compounded by mountainous terrain and landlocked status, constrains extraction and transport. The gross domestic product stands near US $20 billion in nominal terms; under purchasing-power parity, closer to US $81 billion. Per capita income places the country among the lowest worldwide. Agriculture accounts for roughly one-quarter of output, services for more than half and manufacturing the balance. External debt totals some US $2.8 billion, and customs data show imports around US $7 billion against exports under US $800 million, mainly fruits and nuts.
Roads thread through valleys and over passes, yet only one, the 2,210-kilometre Ring Road, links Kabul, Ghazni, Kandahar, Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif. The Salang Tunnel cleaves the Hindu Kush, offering the sole land passage between northern Central Asia and the subcontinent, while bus routes cross other low-lying passes. Frequent accidents and militant attacks render overland transit hazardous. Air services by Ariana Afghan Airlines and private carriers such as Kam Air connect to regional hubs; four international airports serve Kabul, Kandahar, Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif, with nearly forty additional fields for domestic flights. Freight trains cross into Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Iran, though no passenger rail operates yet.
Climate shifts sharply with elevation. Winters in the central highlands and the Wakhan Corridor bring prolonged cold, with average January lows below –15 °C and extremes near –26 °C. Summers in basins and plains average above 35 °C in July and may exceed 43 °C in heatwaves. Rainfall concentrates from December to April, favouring eastern slopes of the Hindu Kush; most lowlands lie outside the monsoon’s reach. Two-thirds of water flowing through the country drains across borders into Iran, Pakistan or Turkmenistan. Snowmelt provides critical irrigation, yet decades-old canals and waterworks require roughly US $2 billion of rehabilitation to function efficiently.
Environmental stress has intensified in recent decades. Severe droughts now afflict twenty-five of thirty-four provinces, undermining food and water security and sparking internal displacement. Flash floods and landslides follow heavy rains. Glaciers, once covering higher passes, lost about 14 percent of their mass between 1990 and 2015, heightening the risk of sudden glacial-lake outbursts. By mid-century, climate-driven displacement could affect an additional five million people. Forests cover only two percent of the land—unchanged since 1990—with no primary stands reported and minimal protected woodland.
Despite aridity, the nation supports varied fauna. Snow leopards and brown bears dwell in alpine tundra; the Wakhan Corridor shelters Marco Polo sheep. Mountain forests host lynx, wolves, red foxes, deer and otters. Steppe plains harbour gazelles, hedgehogs and large carnivores such as jackals and hyenas. Semi-deserts in the south support cheetah, mongoose and wild pigs. Endemic species include the Afghan flying squirrel and the Paradactylodon salamander. Avifauna number some 460 species, half of which breed locally, from raptors in high crags to sandgrouse in lowlands. Flora adapts to elevation: conifers in montane corridors, hardy grasses and flowering herbs on bare slopes, shrubs and perennial plants across plateaus. Three national parks—Band-e Amir, Wakhan and Nuristan—preserve landscapes from limestone lakes to alpine valleys.
Administration divides the country into thirty-four provinces, each led by a governor with a provincial capital. Districts beneath provinces oversee clusters of villages or a town. Traditional structures persist in rural areas: clan elders guide communal decisions, mirabs allocate irrigation water, and mullahs provide religious instruction.
Demographic change accelerated since the year 2000. From approximately 15 million in 1979, the population rose above 35 million by 2024, split roughly three-quarters rural and one-quarter urban, with some four percent maintaining nomadic livelihoods. High fertility rates place growth near 2.4 percent annually, projected to exceed 80 million by 2050 if current trends continue. Returning refugees from Pakistan and Iran have introduced skills and capital, fueling construction and small enterprises. Economic recovery, though uneven, has benefitted from remittances and investments in telecoms, generating over 100,000 jobs since 2003. Carpet weaving, long a tradition, resurged in the mid-2010s as rugs found renewed markets abroad. Major infrastructure ventures include new residential districts beside Kabul, and urban projects in Kandahar, Jalalabad, Herat and Mazar-i-Sharif.
Ethnolinguistic composition reflects centuries of movement and settlement. Pashtuns constitute roughly 42 percent of the population, Tajiks 27 percent, Hazara and Uzbek groups 9 percent each, with other communities—including Aimaq, Turkmen, Baloch and Nuristani—among the remainder. Dari Persian and Pashto serve as official languages; Dari functions as the lingua franca across much of the north and in government, while Pashto predominates in southern and eastern areas. Uzbek, Turkmen, Balochi and smaller tongues appear regionally. Bilingualism is widespread; returnees from Pakistan often speak Hindustani, while English and residual Russian knowledge appear in urban and educational settings.
Religious observance shapes daily life. Sunnis, chiefly of the Hanafi school, form at least 85 percent of the population; Shia communities, mostly Twelver, range up to 10 percent. Small numbers of Sikhs and Hindus remain in urban centres, maintaining places of worship under strict security. Christian believers practice discreetly.
Social norms derive from a blend of Islamic principles and local codes. Pashtunwali, the traditional Pashtun ethic, emphasizes hospitality, protection of guests, and restitution for harm. Parallel-cousin marriage and bride price remain common, with legal marriage age at 16. Extended families inhabit compounds of mud-brick or stone; in villages, a malik, mirab and mullah jointly mediate disputes and resource allocation. Nomadic Kochis traverse seasonal pastures, exchanging dairy and wool for staples in settled communities.
Attire reflects climate and custom. Men and women often wear shalwar kameez variants—perahan tunban or khet partug—accompanied by cloaks, such as the chapan, or headgear: the broad-brimmed karakul hat once favoured by rulers, the pakol of mountain guerrillas, and the rounded Mazari cap. Urban dress may mix local styles with Western garments, while conservative areas see widespread use of head coverings: chadors or the full-body burqa.
Material heritage spans eras. Buddhist stupas and monasteries stand near ancient trade routes; Hellenistic ruins lie alongside fortifications of successive empires. The Minaret of Jam and the ruins of Ai-Khanoum testify to early medieval grandeur. Islamic architecture flourishes in the Friday mosques of Herat and Balkh’s shrines. Palaces from the 1920s echo European forms. Civil conflict has damaged many monuments, yet restorations—such as those at the citadel of Herat—offer glimpses of earlier craftsmanship. The Buddhas of Bamiyan, once among the tallest sculptures worldwide, survive only in memory after their destruction in 2001.
Cuisine revolves around staple grains—wheat, barley, maize and rice—with dairy from sheep and goats. Kabuli palaw, a pilaf of rice layered with meat, raisins and carrots, stands as the national dish. Fruits—pomegranates, grapes, melons—feature prominently in markets. Tea binds social gatherings, served with sugar or cardamom. Yogurt, flatbreads and roasted meats accompany daily meals.
Festivities blend ancient and Islamic observances. Nowruz marks the spring equinox with music, dance and buzkashi tournaments. Yaldā, the midwinter night, gathers families to recite poetry beside fruit and nuts. Ramadan fasts and Eid celebrations punctuate the lunar calendar. Minority communities observe Vaisakhi, Diwali and other traditions. Independence Day on 19 August commemorates the 1919 treaty that ended foreign suzerainty. Regional events—such as Mazar-i-Sharif’s Red Flower Festival—draw crowds with cultural performances and sporting contests.
Tourism faces security constraints yet attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year. The Bamyan Valley, with its lakes, canyons and archaeological sites, remains one of the safer destinations. Trekking parties venture into the Wakhan Corridor, one of the world’s most remote inhabited regions. Historic cities—Ghazni, Herat, Kandahar, Balkh—offer mosques, minarets and bazaars. The Shrine of the Cloak in Kandahar, said to hold a relic of the Prophet, draws pilgrims. The National Museum in Kabul preserves artifacts spanning millennia.
Since the Taliban’s return in 2021, tourist numbers climbed from under one thousand to several thousand annually, though attacks by extremist factions pose ongoing risks.
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Table of Contents
Afghanistan sprawls across the heart of Central Asia, bridging high mountain ranges and arid plains that connect to Pakistan, Iran, China and the stans beyond. Its terrain is famously rugged—steep canyon roads and rocky passes—sheltering remote communities along centuries-old caravan routes. To outsiders, the name Afghanistan still evokes decades of conflict. Yet by 2025, travelers find a land quietly different than media images. Towns remain wary, but their people show resilience and life carries on.
The Taliban’s return to power in 2021 did change much. New rules and stricter customs have been imposed, especially regarding dress, entertainment and religious practice. But unlike the open warfare of the past, today travelers with the right permits discover that all provinces are accessible. The usual menace of roadside attacks has nearly vanished; instead, one finds formal Taliban checkpoints at regular intervals on highways. At these, officers check travel permits, passports and even enforce local dress codes. Daily life still revolves around prayer; businesses pause when the call to prayer sounds and people pray before resuming work.
Afghanistan’s cultural tapestry remains rich. In cities like Herat or Mazar-i-Sharif, bazaars hum with vendors selling carpets, nuts, dried fruits and spices. Men sit on low stools sipping sweet green tea; children run errands for their parents; and Shi’a pilgrims visit shrines in dozens of towns. Yet under Taliban governance, every woman wears a headscarf in public and modest clothing is expected from all foreigners. Travelers learn to mirror these expectations when they dress or greet others. Beyond these rules, daily life feels familiar: tea steams in the streets of Kabul just as it always has, and families gather in the evening around low tables for meals by lantern light.
Experienced travelers say Afghanistan can be rewarding but demanding. There are no easy comforts here, and gaps in infrastructure test even seasoned explorers. Be ready for frequent power cuts, pit toilets or washrooms without running water, and long waits at the very few roadside cafés or gas stations. At the same time, hospitality is genuine: sit down for chai with a local family, and strangers will often insist you share their bread and stories. Many Afghans welcome tourism as a rare chance to earn income, hoping that foreign visitors can help their community even under these new conditions.
Afghanistan requires some upfront paperwork and preparation before you even step off the plane. A visa is needed for any foreigner. In practice, travelers obtain Afghan visas from overseas embassies; common routes include applying in Islamabad (Pakistan), Dubai (UAE) or Kabul’s own consulate networks. The process varies: in Islamabad and Dubai, one can often walk in without an appointment, pay around \$100 and receive a 30-day visa in a few hours. Applicants should have a letter of introduction or a local sponsor if possible, but some travelers report being approved on an individual basis without one. Do not expect to obtain a visa on arrival at any land border – carry your visa with you to the airport or crossing, and get it stamped before you cross (for example at the Torkham or Hairatan border).
Once in Kabul, the famous challenge is the seven-province travel permit. Any traveler leaving Kabul to visit other provinces must obtain an official permit covering each province you will enter (passing through a province is usually fine without a permit, but overnight stays or sightseeing require it). The process typically takes place in Kabul’s Ministry of Information and Culture. You will present your passport, show a proposed itinerary, and wait a few hours for approvals. First, officers at one desk initial your paperwork; then you proceed to an adjacent desk for an interview. At the interview, speak clearly about where you are going, with whom (guide or companion) and why. Dress conservatively and have some phrases in Dari or Pashto ready. If all is well, a senior official signs your permit. The permit fee is typically about 1,000 AFN per province (paid at a counter).
After the Kabul permit is issued, you must register locally in each province visited. For example, upon arrival in Kandahar city, travelers present their Kabul permit at the Kandahar Provincial Culture Office to get a local stamp. Ask your hotel or guide for the address. Typically you show the Kabul permit and fill out a simple form, then sign in. Only then is travel in that province officially authorized.
For most nationalities, an Afghan visa must be obtained before arrival. Afghan embassies and consulates in countries like Pakistan, Uzbekistan or Turkey issue tourist visas. A visa application generally requires your passport, two photos, and a travel itinerary. Expect to pay around \$50–\$100. U.S. and European citizens are welcome to apply. Some travelers use agents in Kabul to facilitate the paperwork, but note that the initial visa must be granted overseas.
Entry points include Kabul International Airport and land crossings at Torkham (Pakistan–Paktika), Spin Boldak (Pakistan–Kandahar), Hairatan (Uzbekistan–Balkh) or Islam Qala (Iran–Herat). None of these provide visas on arrival, so plan accordingly. Make sure your passport visa stamp is in order before crossing by road.
In Kabul, head to the Ministry of Information and Culture (often called the Tourism Directorate). It’s an unmarked building near Abdullah Khan district (ask your hotel to point it out). Arrive early, with the following ready:
The process goes in stages. First, an officer briefly checks your identity and itinerary and initials your form. Then a second officer (often in a small office next door) interviews you: he will ask where you will go, how long, and who you know there. Keep your answers simple. If approved, the permit is signed by a senior officer. The permit covers the provinces you listed; passing through additional provinces without permit will get you turned back at checkpoints.
Permit Tip: Offices close for lunch (around 1–2 PM) and are off on Fridays. Plan your permit application accordingly. You will sign papers multiple times, so move calmly but attentively between desks.
Once you hold the general permit, remember to register locally in each province. For example, when you arrive in Herat, visit the Information & Culture office there and show your Kabul permit. They will issue a local slip. Without this local registration, internal travel can be restricted even if you have the general permit.
As soon as you start driving outside Kabul, Taliban checkpoints will appear—dozens of them on some routes. The routine is predictable: officers stand by the road and either board your vehicle or motion you over. Expect to show your passport and travel permit at every stop. Keep these documents ready in hand and remain seated and relaxed.
What exactly do they look at? At a minimum, you must present: – Passport with visa (make sure the visa stamp is valid) – The Afghan travel permit covering your current and next provinces – A copy of your itinerary or hotel reservation (if available) for context – A small amount of Afghan cash for any official fees
Any missing document can delay you or send you back. If, for example, your permit lacks a province you are about to enter, guards may refuse passage until corrected. So double-check that your Kabul permit lists every major stop.
Dress modestly before even reaching a checkpoint. If traveling by car, remove sunglasses, take off any hat, and roll down windows to show you are not hiding anything. If traveling solo, mention a local friend or guide you know; this reassures them. In general, patience and a friendly demeanor help far more than confrontation.
Technically, foreigners can travel independently, but hiring a local guide is wise in many cases. In practice, certain provinces are off-limits without an escort. Helmand and Kandahar (the Pashtun heartland) impose strict rules requiring a local guide or translator. Some remote provinces (Nuristan, Kunar, Uruzgan) insist on a guide as well. For much of the north and west—Kabul, Bamyan, Mazar, Herat—one could go without a guide, but even there a guide simplifies logistics and communications.
Women should plan to travel with a male relative, husband or guide. Solo female travel is culturally sensitive; even at checkpoints, a male escort eases any tension. Men traveling alone generally attract curiosity but not hostility.
Common options include government-approved tour operators or local fixer networks. For independent travelers, local Facebook groups (like “Afghanistan Travel Experience”) can offer contacts. Always agree on a fee and terms in writing or by message before travel begins.
Afghanistan’s schedule is set by the five daily Muslim prayers. Before dawn, at midday and the other prescribed hours, mosques broadcast the Azaan. During each call, shops and work pause for a few minutes. In the afternoon, it is common for street activity to slow and offices to empty, then pick up again after Maghrib prayer at sunset. A visitor will notice the change in the street: traffic will stop and many people will cross themselves or kneel. On Fridays, the main communal prayer, many businesses fully close for part of the day. If possible, plan important visits for early morning or late afternoon to avoid these pauses.
Under Taliban governance, social life is even more reserved. Large parties, music concerts or film showings that occasionally occurred in the past have disappeared from public life. Radios and TVs usually carry only religious programs or state news; public loudspeakers blare Quranic passages instead of music. Traditional pastimes like kite-flying (once common) are banned, and even many children’s games are curtailed. Simple examples of etiquette include removing your shoes before entering a home or mosque and greeting the shopkeeper as you enter a store or elevator with a quiet “Salam.” Adults do not usually hug or clasp each other in public; a respectful nod or hand over the heart suffices.
What you wear will matter. Women are required to cover their heads with a scarf (hijab) in public. Shoulders and elbows should be covered; a long tunic and loose pants or a long dress are safest. It is best to carry an extra scarf to cover your hair if needed. Men should avoid shorts or sleeveless tops; long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt are recommended. Both genders should choose clothes that are loose and not attention-grabbing. Bright colors are less common, so wearing neutral tones (beige, green or navy) helps you blend in. Remove your shoes before entering a mosque or someone’s home. A practical rule: if local shopkeepers seem to stare, tone down bright prints or skimpy cuts immediately.
Always ask before taking photos of people. Afghan men are usually honored to have their picture taken and may stand in respectful poses if asked. Many women, however, will refuse (and you must never insist or secretly photograph them). Stand a respectful distance back and raise your hand in a gentle request; if they shake their head or gesture no, lower the camera and step back.
Never photograph any armed personnel, police, Taliban members, or any building with government insignia (banks, military bases, Ministry offices). Even filming an airport terminal or public park near a government facility is off-limits. If a uniformed officer says “No photos,” obey immediately.
Treat Taliban officers as formal hosts. A respectful greeting (for example, “Salam Alaikum”) and a brief nod will start any interaction smoothly. Do not laugh loudly or appear impatient. If offered a seat, water or chai, accept graciously even if only for a moment—it’s polite to show gratitude. Speak softly and answer questions directly. When asked about your trip or purpose, give clear and brief answers. Keep your hands visible (for instance, resting on your knees or the car’s dashboard). If you feel tired or need a break, you can politely say so. Generally, even at checkpoints, showing humility and respect is the fastest way through. Any sign of anger or defiance will only escalate a simple inquiry into trouble.
Afghan society separates men and women in most public settings. In restaurants or cafes, men typically sit together and women (when unescorted) sit in a separate section or private room. As a female traveler, expect to be shown to the women’s area of any establishment. When on the street, men generally avoid unnecessary eye contact with women (and vice versa). Public displays of affection (even holding hands) are strictly avoided. In mosques and shrines, men and women will enter through different doors or stand in separate sections.
Dari (Persian) and Pashto are the national languages. Dari is the more widely spoken; around 50–60% of Afghans use it, especially in Kabul, northern and western provinces like Herat, Balkh and Bamyan. Pashto dominates in the south and east: Kandahar, Helmand, Khost, Nangarhar, etc. In Kabul, even those who speak Pashto will know Dari, making it a common lingua franca. English is very uncommon outside major hotels and universities. In rural areas and smaller towns, you will not find more than a few words of English.
If you speak any Persian (Farsi), you will be somewhat understood in Dari-speaking parts, but be aware of regional differences. Learn a few key words in both languages; it shows respect and can go a long way. Useful Dari phrases include “Salam” (hello), “Tashakor” (thank you), “Maf kherasta” (excuse me), and “na-ba-boodan” (I don’t know/forgive me). For Pashto: “Khaistâ” (hello) and “May goorá” (thank you). Always use your right hand when gesturing or exchanging items, as the left hand is considered unclean. Smiling and handshakes (for men) or a soft nod (for women) bridge many gaps where words fail.
Afghanistan’s currency is the Afghani (AFN). Before traveling, carry U.S. dollars or euros to exchange; do not rely on credit cards except at a very few Kabul hotels. Exchange cash at banks or official exchange bureaus in Kabul or major cities for safety and a fair rate. Government-run exchange offices display the rate on a board (e.g. 1 USD ≈ 85 AFN in 2025). Use only the new banknotes they give you; new polymer notes have rainbow colors and a portrait of the last king, while older notes look more worn. Count your money carefully: some counterfeit older bills exist.
ATMs are scarce. A few function in central Kabul (even one in the Serena Hotel lobby) and some operate in Herat or Mazar, but they often run out of cash or require a high withdrawal fee. Most travelers find it safer to bring enough cash with them. Large establishments (certain supermarkets or hotels) may accept dollars at a poor rate, but most shops and services will demand Afghani.
For small expenses, carry Afghani cash in low denominations (10, 20, 50, 100 AFN notes). In markets, shopkeepers generally expect to see at least 50 AFN or larger notes for any purchase, so have change ready. Note that street vendors and roadside shops rarely give change for large bills, and some small vendors refuse old paper notes.
Tipping culture is modest. In a tea stall or small restaurant, leaving a few Afghani on the table is polite but not required. In larger restaurants or hotel dining, a tip of around 5–10% is appreciated. Taxi drivers and hotel staff often expect a small tip (for example 20–50 AFN to a driver or porter). Guides and translators usually anticipate \$1–5 per day extra if they have provided good service. Always thank service providers verbally (“Tashakur”) along with any cash tip.
Any kind of alcoholic drink is banned and impossible to find legally. Do not bring alcohol. Instead, accept invites for chai (tea) or kawa (black tea with cardamom) at any chance – this is a cornerstone of local hospitality. Being offered tea or even a shared meal on the road is common; refusing can be seen as impolite. So when a guard or villager offers a cup, at least sip it gratefully, even if you carry your own water.
In short, Afghan food is simple, filling and more influenced by Persia than South Asia. Embrace the bread-and-steak diet, enjoy the endless tea offerings, and you will get along fine.
Kabul’s Hamid Karzai International Airport now receives regular commercial flights from Dubai, Doha, Istanbul and Islamabad, among others. After a smooth passport control (your visa should be in order), you will pass through a simple luggage scan and exit into the arrivals hall. Currency exchange kiosks are available inside the terminal (at slightly higher rates than in town). Taxi stands serve the city; negotiate or use a fixed-rate counter at the airport building (ask hotel staff if you can pay by credit card). Expect Kabul transport from the airport to cost \$20–40 depending on traffic and your destination.
On Day One in Kabul, plan to visit the Ministry of Information and Culture as soon as possible. This is the government office (often called simply the Tourism Directorate) where you apply for travel permits covering other provinces. The building has no English sign, but is located near the Abdullah Khan neighborhood (check with your hotel driver or an embassy assistant for directions). Arrive early (before noon) with: – Passport (and photocopies) – Passport photos – Written itinerary listing all provinces you plan to enter
You will first go to a desk to have your identity and plan checked and signed; then proceed to an adjacent desk where an officer will interview you about your travel details. Dress conservatively and carry some Dari or Pashto phrases if possible. Tell them where you’ll go, for how long, and who will accompany you. If all is well, an official will sign off on your permit. The permit fee is usually about 1,000 AFN per province (paid afterward at a bank counter inside). By some accounts this process can take an entire morning.
After the Kabul permit is issued, remember you must register locally in each province. For example, arriving in Kandahar city requires visiting the Kandahar Information & Culture office. Show your Kabul-issued permit there to receive a local stamp or slip. Only then is your travel in that province authorized. In practice, you handle this through your guide or ask at your hotel for assistance upon arrival in each region.
Kabul offers a very limited range of secure hotels. The Serena Hotel is the best-known: a fortress-like compound with a high wall, its own garden and amenities (coffee shop, pool, restaurant). Rooms with air conditioning and breakfast run around \$150–\$200 per night. The Inter-Continental and Kabul Star (in old city) are other upscale choices, if still open; the Inter-Continental reopened by 2024 after decades. A few international brand hotels may exist, but many foreign visitors rely on smaller establishments.
Mid-range hotels (such as the Baron Hotel, Hotel Baran, or Park Star) cost about \$40–\$80 per night. These often look like office blocks or apartment buildings from outside, with a guarded entrance and little to distinguish them. Budget guesthouses (like the Old City Inn or Koshan Guest House) charge less than \$30 but are sparse on luxury – some have no windows onto the street and may close their outer gates at night.
All hotels enforce a strict security policy. Visitors will show passports at reception. Even luxury hotels like the Serena require security screening each time you enter or leave. Front-desk staff usually speak good English and can help arrange taxis, meals, or local guides.
After settling in, even a few hours of exploring central Kabul is worthwhile. The Sakhi Shrine (Hazrat Ali) on Karte Sakhi is the city’s most famous mosque, with a large gilded dome. Non-Muslims may not enter the prayer hall, but you can walk around its interior courtyard and courtyard madrassa. The nearby Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque (Shrine of the Two Swords) is an eye-catching white building along the Kabul River, worth photographing from a distance.
Early each morning, the Ka Faroshi Bird Market opens in Old City, where vendors sell and buy homing pigeons and other birds. It’s a noisy, colorful scene if you rise at dawn. On weekends, Kabul’s markets (Chicken Street for antiques, Darwaza Bazaar for cheap goods) open early; strolling them is safe in daylight, though always keep an eye on your belongings.
For views, head to Wazir Akbar Khan Hill in the embassy district. Walking or taking a short taxi to the ridge off Salang Watt Road, you’ll find a panoramic overlook of Kabul’s sprawling rooftops and distant mountains. Another option is the relatively new Kabul Tower (on Shahr-e Naw Road), where an observation deck offers a 360° city view (a small fee is charged). These vantage points give a sense of Kabul’s layout: heavily built-up along the river and ring road, with ancient hills rising on either side.
Remember that Kabul’s traffic can be startling. Even a 5 km trip may take 30 minutes or more. Hail a taxi (or hotel car) well before your appointment time. Many first-time visitors underestimate how congested main roads are, especially near mosques at prayer times. Plan extra travel time when moving across town.
Kabul is divided by the Kabul River and the main ring road. To the north lies the newer diplomatic district of Wazir Akbar Khan (WAK) and Shar-e Naw with wide boulevards, international organizations and affluent neighborhoods. South of the river is the older city (Chindawol, Karte Parwan, and Pul-e Surkh), characterized by narrow bazaars, small workshops and denser markets.
Some key neighborhoods: – Wazir Akbar Khan: Foreign embassies and upmarket hotels. Few ordinary businesses, but a few restaurants and the National Stadium. Streets are cleaner and wider. – Shar-e Naw: The heart of New Kabul. A central park, the stadium, and many shops. This area survived bombing in the 1990s and still shows bullet-pocked facades. – Old City (Shahr-e Kohna/Chindawol): Ancient alleys, traditional bazaars (like Ka Faroshi area), and crowded residential quarters. It feels much older. – Kart-e Parwan/Puli Surkh: Commercial belt and main bazaar street. Sites like Sakhi Shrine and Railway Station are here.
Navigating can be confusing since most street names are not signposted in English and maps have changed after decades. If renting a car is not an option, rely on trusted drivers and detailed directions. After a day, you’ll start to see landmarks: the green dome of Sakhi Shrine, the white façade of Shah-Do Shamshira, or the golden minarets of Mirwais Maidan to orient yourself.
As evening falls, many city dwellers retreat indoors. Some streets empty by 8–9 pm. However, Kabul does have a few restaurants and cafés that stay open late (mostly those catering to expatriates and diplomats). For example, Josef’s Restaurant (if still open) is run by a German NGO and serves simple meals; nearby, one can often find street food vendors grilling kebabs late into the night. You will see Afghan men sitting at chai houses well past dark.
Women in Kabul rarely go out alone after sunset. If you are female, stick to groups and your lodging. Men can stroll around safer areas (WAK is well-patrolled). By 10 pm, Kabul is mostly dark except for security lights. The city has no nightlife or clubs, so do not expect music or dancing. Instead, Kasr-i-Shahi mosque or one of the high-end hotels might have a quiet lounge.
If you need necessities at night, head to your hotel or one of the few late-night groceries near Shar-e Naw. Kabul’s international airport hotels, for example, have small shops or cafes accessible 24/7 to guests. In any case, avoid walking around unfamiliar streets after dark. Stick to trusted, lit areas or stay in for the night.
Newcomers to Kabul often note the city’s contrasts: a modern car next to a wooden cart, high-rises next to shattered ruins. Dust hangs in the air, and even the nicest roads may give way to potholes after one turn. Basic tasks can feel complicated: GPS directions rarely work for local drivers, and many Afghans do not answer “What is your destination?” exactly as expected. Prepare for short customer-service tolerance — patience and a smile are essential.
Language can be a constant barrier. Even hotel clerks who speak some English may become frustrated if you insist on details. Men are overwhelmingly in public view; women may catch only a glimpse of other women in burqas walking quickly between buildings. Signs in shops are usually in Dari or Pashto only.
Altogether, travelers should accept that Afghanistan will not operate on Western schedules. Electricity may flicker off at random times. Hot water might only be available in certain hours. If you need reliable internet or continuous power, consider portable battery chargers and an offline copy of your maps or translator. Some visitors pack small solar lights or multi-plug adapters for peace of mind.
Even the most prepared travelers find the day-to-day requires adjustment: fewer English speakers, long drives, and an array of unpredictable delays. But these challenges are part of why so few people come, and overcoming them — navigating a foreign bureaucracy, bargaining in Pashto, or waiting out a power cut with neighbors — often ends up as the travel story people remember most vividly.
Bamyan is about a 5- to 6-hour drive west of Kabul on a mountain highway. Most travelers take a shared minivan (locally called a Sherut) or hire a private car. The road climbs steeply to the Unai Pass (2,512 meters) and then winds down into the Bamyan valley. In good weather, the journey is scenically rewarding: rugged peaks, terraced fields and grazing sheep line the way. If you travel at night, know that roads are poorly lit, so daytime travel is safer and far more pleasant. Flights from Kabul to Bamyan are operated by Kam Air seasonally but have limited schedules and may be canceled for weather. Expect the road journey unless you have packed-lunch time to spare.
Bamyan’s most famous sights are the two giant Buddhas carved into the sandstone cliffs. These stood for 1,500 years (one 53 meters tall, one 35 m) before Taliban demolition in 2001. Today, only the empty niches remain. Standing in the plaza below, you can imagine their immense scale.
In the niche of the western (taller) Buddha you can still see carved footsteps and pilgrims’ stupa remnants. Behind the niche is a staircase leading to a museum in a cave where some Buddha fragments and murals are on display. The rescue museum (Buddha Museum) houses a few vestiges: carved reliefs that once adorned the Buddhas and some household items unearthed in excavations. It is worth a quick visit for context, but the real experience is simply standing before the empty cliff faces and reflecting on the history.
Behind the Buddhas is the ruined fortress of Shahr-e Gholghola (the “City of Screams”), destroyed by Mongols under Genghis Khan. Its mudbrick walls and towers sit atop a hill; a short climb offers good views over Bamyan valley. Nearby is Shahr-e Zuhak (the “Red Fort”), a ruined twin fortress on a reddish clay ridge. The ruins of Zuhak are most dramatic at sunrise or sunset when the red walls glow softly. Paths wind between broken walls and burial mounds; the air is still and oddly peaceful given the ruins’ violent history.
Shahr-e Zuhak is a photographer’s delight at dawn. If you have time (and some hiking enthusiasm), climb a bit further up the ridge to a lone blue-tiled shrine on a hilltop – it’s a quiet spot often overlooked by tourists. Combined, these ruins and shrines give a sense that Bamyan’s valley has been a spiritual crossroads (Buddhist, Islamic, tribal) over millennia.
About 40 km north of Bamyan town lies Band-e-Amir, Afghanistan’s first national park. Here a chain of six deep blue lakes fills natural limestone basins. The largest lake (Band-e Amir itself) is framed by tall orange cliffs, where local children often swing from ropes into the water. Trails and wooden viewing platforms have been built around the first two lakes, making an easy half-day walk. Higher lakes require hiking along rougher paths.
In summer, the lakes are brilliantly turquoise from dissolved minerals; in winter they freeze into glassy white plains. The air is thin (above 3,000m) so dress warmly even in daytime. A full day at Band-e-Amir lets you visit two or three lakes on foot. There are very few facilities: a few restrooms and small tea kiosks near the entry, but no luxury hotels. Overnight visitors usually sleep in Bamyan town and return. Permits: you will show your Bamyan provincial registration at the entrance. The park charges a small entry fee (managed by the “Band-e-Amir Protected Area Authority”). Don’t expect shops or restaurants beyond snack stalls; bring food and water if you plan to picnic.
Bamyan’s hotels often decorate their walls with Buddha motifs or Hazara designs. The Bamyan Royal Hotel is one of the better options: it sits with a view of the Buddha niches and offers a dining area, electricity generators and modest amenities (rooms around \$50–\$70). The Hotel Gholghola and Safir Bamyan are similar mid-range choices, both with restaurants and basic hot water. For a more local experience, several homestays or guesthouses run by Hazara families offer clean rooms and home-cooked meals at lower cost (for example, Mountain View Homestay). In all cases, accommodation is simple: expect reliable heating but frequent power cuts, and water that may shut off for a few hours.
If you want to stay inside Band-e-Amir park, options are very limited: some travelers pitch tents (permits required) or find a basic yurt-like camp near the lake owned by Wakhan Valley trekkers. However, most visitors sleep back in Bamyan town or take a day-trip from Bamyan to the park.
Bamyan is a hiker’s paradise. One popular route is to follow the Bamyan River south into the hills, leading to the Bear Cave and further up to the Shah Foladi mountain (4,300 m) – the highest peak in the area. Another trek follows the ridge north of town, past ancient forts and Buddhist stupas. Trails are not marked on the ground, so it’s wise to hire a local trekking guide (often arranged through your hotel or Bamyan Travel Office).
Altitude can cause headaches; Bamyan sits at about 2,650 m. Spend your first day resting and drink plenty of water. If you venture into the high valleys or Wakhan later, consider bringing altitude sickness medication.
Motorbike tours and horseback treks are available through local companies. Many visitors simply hike independently by day (with map and possibly a local as companion) and return to town by night. Traffic vehicles often travel only the main road, so you may share paths with nomads and their herds. Always inform hotel staff of your planned route and expected return time for safety.
Most of Bamyan’s residents are ethnic Hazara, distinguished by Central Asian (Mongoloid) features. The Hazara are mostly Shi’a Muslims (with some Sunni minorities) and have a distinct cultural identity. Women and girls here often wear colorful dresses and traditional headdresses with silver jewelry. Men typically wear the round woolen pakol hat, which is seen throughout Bamyan in bazaars and teahouses.
Hazara history in Bamyan is marked by resilience. The community endured hardship under successive regimes. Today you may see small shrines to Hazara martyrs alongside mosques. Hazara hospitality is genuine: if you accept an invitation for chai, it may be accompanied by sweet bolani (stuffed flatbread) or mantu. Cuisine here often features dried apricots and walnuts in stews or breads.
In small villages, you might catch traditional music: a chordophone (rubab) played by an elder, or the rhythmic clapping at a local dance (performed only at weddings or festivals). Key festivals include Nowruz (Persian New Year) in spring, and Ashura in summer (commemorating Imam Hussein). If your visit coincides with these, you will see special foods and gatherings. Overall, the people of Bamyan carry an atmosphere of quiet pride. Despite the loss of their Buddhas and years of conflict, their skyline of mountains and valleys exudes a peaceful dignity that many travelers remember long after.
Mazar-i-Sharif is 430 km north of Kabul. It can be reached by a 7–9 hour drive in a private car or an overnight van, or by a short flight. Domestic airlines (Kam Air, Ariana) run flights a few times a week from Kabul (weather permitting). The road from Bamyan crosses fertile plains; even with travel between cities, it often makes sense to route through Bamyan first if coming from Kabul.
Given Afghanistan’s road conditions, travel times can vary widely. A broken-down vehicle or checkpoint delay can add hours. For safety and comfort, consider flying if you have limited time. Landing at Mazar airport, you’ll drive straight to the city, where hotels are clustered near the airport and the central lake.
Mazar’s most famous landmark is the Blue Mosque (Shrine of Hazrat Ali). This 15th-century mosque is a breathtaking sight. Its large central dome and paired minarets are covered in turquoise tile, and walls are decorated with intricate mosaics and calligraphy. It is believed by many Afghans (Shi’a and Sunni) to enshrine the tomb of Ali, the Prophet’s cousin, who is said to have been buried here. As a result, the shrine is a site of pilgrimage, especially on holy days.
Non-Muslim visitors may enter the mosque complex (women cover hair and shoulders). You can walk the outer courtyards, admiring the tilework. Do not step into the prayer hall itself, which is reserved for Muslim worshipers. A special ritual here is pigeon feeding: people scatter rice on the marble courtyard and take photos with the flocks of white pigeons. Children delight in the birds. Outside the shrine are stalls where you can buy rice or bread for the feeding ritual, plus candles to light at the tomb area (though lighting may be restricted to certain times).
On Friday afternoons, the mosque is busiest; if you visit then, dress especially modestly and expect security checks.
Just 25 km west of Mazar lies the ancient city of Balkh, once called the “Mother of Cities.” Balkh’s main attraction today is the Green Mosque (Shah Mosque), a restored Timurid-era mosque with faded green domes (hence the name). Surrounding it are ruins of old city walls and a visible grass-filled moat. You will also find the shrine of Hazrat Ali of Balkh and the famous tomb of the 13th-century poet Rumi’s father. Balkh is quiet but full of atmosphere: storks nest on the minarets, and the lush green gardens hint at Balkh’s former grandeur on the Silk Road.
Further afield, about 2 hours south in Samangan Province, is Takht-e Rustam. This solitary 28-meter tall stupa is carved directly into a limestone hill. It dates to about the 3rd century AD. A short walk from the highway brings you to its base (in Aybak town); you can climb steps to an inner chamber. Once the stupa was painted and part of a larger monastery complex. Today it stands alone amid fields. Very few tourists visit here, so it can feel like a hidden gem. The nearby grounds include some carved Buddha figures and a small ruined monastery.
Mazar has several comfortable hotels. The Zarafshan Hotel is popular for foreign visitors: it offers modern rooms, a rooftop terrace and staff who speak English (rooms ~\$70). Near the airport, the Baron Hotel (Mazar) provides a cafeteria and business center for about \$60–\$80. Midrange options (like Nov Hotel and Sun Flower Garden Guesthouse) are cheaper (\$30–\$50). A notable guesthouse is Einana, with clean dorms and private rooms (especially popular among backpackers).
Little stands out stylistically in Mazar’s hotels; they all have sturdy security and are often surrounded by high walls. Many have restaurants on site. Expect Wi-Fi in common areas (though speeds can be slow) and water that may not be hot continuously. Overall, Mazar’s lodging provides more Western amenities than smaller towns, but still simpler than Kabul.
Northern Afghanistan is a crossroads of cultures. In Mazar’s city center, Uzbek and Tajik influences appear: you will hear Russian and Uzbek music coming from a market stall, or see women in colorful Uzbek-dress style (long coats and headbands). Markets sell lamb kebabs, round flatbreads and sweet dried apricots. The lanes are less crowded than Kabul’s, and people smile easily at foreigners. Unlike the Pashtun south, men will often invite you to sit and share a tea dugokha (milky black tea) at a chaikhana.
In spring, the fields around Mazar turn emerald green with wheat, and apricot trees blossom white-pink. By summer, sunflowers and watermelon sellers appear on every roadside. This is farming country: vendors sell melons and grapes by the dozen. Streets are wide and sometimes dusty, but you will notice fewer armed soldiers on the sidewalks – local police focus more on traffic.
Life here feels more relaxed. For example, on Eid or Friday afternoons, you may see men flying kites or playing cricket in a park. Religious devotion is strong, but celebrations and bazaar life go on more freely. Children often shout “Salam!” when they see a foreigner. In villages near Mazar, you might even see women as shopkeepers, especially if they run carpet or craft stalls.
However, watch for local tensions too. Mazar is mostly peaceful, but there have been outbreaks of unrest in recent decades (for example between different ethnic factions). These rarely involve tourists, but it’s wise to avoid demonstrations or armed gatherings. Stick to the main bazaar and Blue Mosque areas unless you have a trusted local guide.
Herat is in far western Afghanistan, only a few dozen kilometers from the Iranian border. Domestic flights connect Herat with Kabul and Kandahar a few times per week. Overland, you can drive to Herat via Kandahar (a long southern route) or via Farah and Farah on a shorter route. The most reliable overland option is often to travel Kabul–Kandahar and Kandahar–Herat in two legs, or to break the trip at Farah.
Another route is through Iran: taking a bus from Tehran to Mashhad and crossing at Islam Qala into Afghanistan at the Herat border. This is used by some travelers, but requires an Afghan visa in advance and a Pakistani-style Afghan visa on the Pakistani border. If you plan this, make sure you can re-enter Afghanistan from Iran legally (some border officials were confused in the past).
Once in Herat, taxis will take you to the city center for a few dollars. Notable points: Herat’s airport is new and secure, but outside the city walls. Town is flat and compact, with many historical sites within a 5–10 minute drive of each other.
Herat’s Friday (Jami) Mosque is arguably the finest architectural monument in the city. Built by Timur (Tamerlane) in the early 15th century, its vast turquoise-tiled dome and four minarets are an unforgettable sight. Enter the large central courtyard, flanked by four monumental iwan archways decorated in blue, yellow and white mosaics.
Non-Muslim visitors may not enter the inner prayer hall, but you can walk around the courtyard and admire the craftsmanship. A highlight is the sangi mashq panels (stone carved calligraphy) above the main portals. Afternoon or sunset, sunlight illuminates the mosaics vividly. On any visit, make sure to remove your shoes at the entrance and for women to cover hair.
During prayer times, the mosque is filled with worshipers and closed to tours. Generally it is open to visitors outside of the five daily prayer windows. Local volunteers or guards may allow non-Muslims inside part of the vestibule to photograph the interior ceiling, as long as you are discreet. The serenity of this site – away from the modern city noise – is a highlight of Herat.
In the center of Herat sits the ancient fortress known as Qala Iktyaruddin or Herat Citadel. This square citadel has stood since antiquity and was expanded by Timur and later rulers. Today it houses a small museum and the Tomb of Queen Goharshad Begum.
Goharshad was the wife of Shah Rukh (Timur’s son) and built her white-marble mausoleum in 1454. The tomb’s facade is decorated with mosaic tile and calligraphy. It stands separate from the main castle walls on a raised platform and is easily visible at the citadel entrance. In 2021 a young Taliban member controversially painted over a corner of it, reminding visitors that religious rulings still have power here.
Inside the Citadel’s museum, you’ll see artifacts from the region – coins, pottery and weaponry from different eras. But the real attraction is walking the ramparts. The top provides 360° views over the old city’s domes and minarets, with the western mountains on the horizon.
Adjacent to the citadel lies the Old City of Herat, a maze of alleys with artisan workshops and bazaars. On a broad square (Charsi Bazaar), you’ll find shops with traditional wares. Walking the lanes, you may pass carpet weavers at narrow looms and metalworkers forging copper bowls.
Herat was long a Silk Road hub, and its markets still bustle with craftsmanship. Colorful Persian carpets (Herati rugs) of all sizes hang in shop doorways. Inside the bazaars you can find lapis lazuli and other gemstone jewelry, since minerals come from Afghan mines. One section of the bazaar has dozens of lacquerware and bracelet shops (jade and agate braclets are made here).
The old downtown bazaar (near the citadel) sells spices, dried fruits (apricots, pistachios), and handmade pottery. On every corner you may see an artisan at work: forging a copper pot, painting a vase, or shaping dough on a saj (griddle).
Outside town, the Kariz-e-Gijjam artisan quarter has workshops where you can watch inlaid woodwork and tile-making. It’s worth arranging a short visit. Carpets from the surrounding villages are sold in a common bazaar each afternoon; if interested, you can bargain politely with local weavers.
Herat offers some mid-range hotels with amenities. The Amiri Hotel (sometimes called Atlantis) is a popular choice: clean rooms with air conditioning and breakfast are about \$30 per night. The Ariana Hotel and Rabab are budget options (\$20–\$25). For more comfort, the Serena Hotel Herat (opened in the late 2010s) has walled gardens, a pool and modern rooms for about \$50–\$60. Internet is spotty: newer hotels usually have Wi-Fi, while smaller guesthouses may charge for access.
Most hotels can arrange airport pickup and SIM cards. Hot showers are usually available, but pressure may vary. As with Kabul, hotel doors lock at night and entry is through a gate with guards. Keep your valuables locked in room, and carry a small travel light if you plan to move around in the dark (many corridors are dimly lit).
Herat feels culturally closer to eastern Iran than to Kabul. The architecture – tilework on mosques, even storefront signs – often looks Persian in style. People speak Dari with a soft accent that resembles Iranian Farsi. Because of centuries of trade, Heratis tend to be slightly more outwardly friendly to visitors. Women, especially in summer, sometimes wear more colorful chadors or even walk together to shops.
Still, religious norms are strong. You will hear the call to prayer five times daily. Shopkeepers may pause what they do to pray, and on Fridays most businesses close for the main prayer. However, you will also witness daily life normalcy: students meeting in street cafés after school, soldiers chatting outside tea shops, and mothers buying produce at the bazaar.
One must-know: Herat has a reputation for occasional political unrest. Tribal disputes or student protests have flared here in the past. For safety, avoid large crowds or political gatherings. By staying in touristic areas (around the mosque and citadel), you should be fine. In general, Herat is considered one of the safer urban destinations, and many travelers feel comfortable walking around parts of the city with guides even after dark. That said, always follow any instructions from local officials if they direct you away from an event or area.
Kandahar is Afghanistan’s second-largest city and the historical seat of the Pashtun tribal belt (the roots of the Taliban movement). The city feels more conservative and quiet than Kabul. Travel is often by private car or overnight bus on the Kabul–Kandahar road (a journey of about 8–10 hours). The drive passes through Ghazni and Zabul provinces; roads are decent highways but can be stalled by military convoys or checkpoints. Flights from Kabul to Kandahar are rare and not always reliable.
Upon entering Kandahar, the first notable sight is the green dome of the Shrine of Baba Wali (or the Cloak of the Prophet Mosque). Local legend says this is where the Prophet Muhammad’s cloak fell when he ascended to heaven. The shrine complex includes a mosque with golden domes and an octagonal enclosure. Pashtun pilgrims from across the south come to pay respects. Foreign visitors may enter the outer courtyard (women via a separate side entrance) to view the mosque from outside, but the inner sanctuary is for prayer only.
Not far away lie the remains of the Kandahar Citadel. This ancient fortress has been rebuilt many times; inside its mud-brick walls you will see the tomb of Ahmad Shah Durrani (founder of modern Afghanistan) under a white dome. Nearby, the bustling Mandawi Bazaar sells local produce, textiles and traditional Kathiya rugs. Roasted chai with cardamom is widely offered around tea stands here.
Pashto is the main language in Kandahar, and you will hear it almost everywhere. Even among city youth, knowledge of English is minimal. Men greet each other by name with “Khan” or “Jan” added. Women cover fully with long dresses and often a niqab or burqa outdoors. If a foreign woman appears in the street, she will be escorted closely by a male relative or guard. Solo female travel in Kandahar is highly discouraged by both locals and authorities.
Accommodations in Kandahar are very limited. A few small hotels and guesthouses near the airport or on the outskirts serve foreigners, but many have closed since 2021. The best approach is to arrange lodging ahead through aid contacts or a tour company. Otherwise, one may rely on NGO guesthouses in the city. In any case, facilities here are basic.
Kandahar’s people are known for their stoic hospitality. If you sit down with a Pashtun family over a steaming cup of tea, they may serve fresh bread and goat soup or kebab. Always accept an invitation with thanks; showing respect for Pashtun customs (Pashtunwali) is important. Security in Kandahar is tighter than other cities; expect checkpoints when approaching or leaving the city. The Taliban presence is very strong, so compliance with rules (particularly a male escort for women) is strictly enforced.
Kandahar is where the Aryana belt meets the desert. The southwest winds carry a dry heat and dust, and date palms dot the outside city. It is a place of serious history and deep tradition. Though it offers fewer “tourist sights,” visiting Kandahar gives insight into Afghanistan’s southern heart. For the well-prepared traveler, it demonstrates the country’s resilience – even in its most conservative corners, hospitality shines through modest walls and sun-baked streets.
For an adventurous extension beyond the main cities, Afghanistan offers extreme destinations – but they require courage, time and acceptance of hardship. In the Nuristan Province (northeast), steep forests hide villages where people still speak old Indo-Iranian languages and practice ancient traditions. There are no tourist facilities, and travel here is only for well-prepared trekkers. The road ends in the town of Kamdesh; beyond this you trek on foot to reach villages like Parun. Local police will expect to see your Khost province permit and a registered guide if you attempt any travel here.
The Wakhan Corridor (far northeast) stretches between Tajikistan and Pakistan. It is accessible by 4×4 through the rugged Wakhjir Pass (only open in summer with permit). The narrow valley opens to the high Pamir plateau. The main road goes from Ishkashim (Badakhshan) to Bozai Gumbaz, passing Ismaili villages like Langar and Quqing. The scenery is Himalayan: sharp peaks (including Noshaq, 7,485m) flank the road, and Kyrgyz yurts dot the summer pastures. Trekking between villages in the Wakhan is a multi-day expedition through river valleys. Lodging is none – you camp or stay in very basic local guesthouses. Supplies must be carried. Foreigners need special permission from Kabul to enter the extreme northeast, and then must register with authorities at Ishkashim.
Beyond Bamyan, the Ghor and Badghis Provinces remain largely unexplored by tourists. In Ghor (south of Bamyan), shards of history (like the Minaret of Jam) emerge from tangled valleys, but roads may be impassable outside summer. The road over Shibar Pass in winter closes, so Ghor is best left for summer trekking with a caravan guide. Ghazni province on the way to Kandahar also offers remote passes, but choose this route only with an experienced local guide.
These remote trips are not for the casual traveler. They require special permits, local guides, camping gear and acceptance of real isolation. Cell service is nonexistent, and medical help is days away. If you lack experience in wilderness travel or the patience for endless checkpoints, it is more practical to stick to the well-trodden circuit of Bamyan, Mazar and Herat. Those who do venture beyond will be rewarded with absolute solitude, spectacular scenery and encounters with cultures almost untouched by the modern world.
Afghan meals follow hearty traditions. Breakfast often means warm flatbread (naan) with butter, cheese or jam, accompanied by sweet chai (black tea with sugar). In cities like Kabul or Mazar, you may find street vendors selling bolani (pan-fried bread stuffed with potatoes or leeks) or kebab skewers as a morning snack. Another common breakfast is an omelet with onions or simply boiled eggs with naan and tea.
For lunch and dinner, expect rice and meat dishes. The national dish is Kabuli pulao: fragrant rice topped with raisins, carrots and shredded lamb or beef. You will see spit-roasted lamb legs turning at roadside, or chickens grilled over coals. Stews (called qorma) simmer all day – for example sabzi (spinach with lamb) or aloo gosht (potato and meat). Dumplings are popular: mantu (steamed meat dumplings covered in yogurt and mint) and ashak (boiled garlic chive dumplings). Vegetarians will find dishes like shorwa (vegetable soup) or boranee (yogurt and spinach), but many meals include meat.
In smaller towns and bazaars, you will eat very simply: a bowl of rice, a leg of goat, and perhaps a small salad of onions and tomatoes. Cafes in larger cities may offer flatbreads with feta or grilled kebabs with naan. Street food is relatively safe: try roasted corn, dried fruit or samosas fried snacks between meals to fill gaps.
Overall, Afghan food is simple, hearty and not very spicy (chilies are served on the side if you want heat). Expect lots of bread, meat, rice and yogurt. Embrace the communal meals and endless tea – after all, sharing bread and tea is how Afghans say “welcome.”
Getting around Afghanistan requires planning. Between cities, the main options are shared taxis (minibuses), private cars, night buses or flights. Shared minivans run regular routes (e.g. Kabul–Bamyan, Bamyan–Mazar) and cost \$5–\$15 depending on distance. They wait until full before departing, so departure times can be unpredictable. Night buses (large sleeper coaches) connect major cities like Kabul–Herat or Kabul–Bamyan. These can be very basic (sometimes without reclining seats) and tend to move slowly for safety.
Private car hire (with driver) offers the most flexibility. Prices vary by vehicle type, but expect \$100–\$150 per day for a comfortable sedan (including fuel and driver). This is cost-effective if shared among a small group. It allows you to stop for scenery and avoid the cramped vans.
Domestic flights cover key city pairs (Kabul–Herat, Kabul–Mazar, Mazar–Herat) and take 1–2 hours. Afghan carriers (Kam Air, Ariana) offer these routes, typically costing \$80–\$120 one-way. Flights can save time, but schedules are limited and weather cancellations are common. Book flights only if you have flexibility in your itinerary.
For comparison: hotels in Kabul or Mazar start at \$60–\$80 for a mid-range place and go to \$150+ for a luxury one (Serena, Inter-Continental). In Bamyan or smaller cities, mid-range hotels cost \$20–\$50. Street meals cost \$1–\$3; restaurant meals \$5–\$15. A local bus or shared taxi between cities is usually under \$10. Guides: \$30–\$50 per day (including car). Always confirm and pay guides’ fees in cash at the end of the day.
Buying a SIM card is easy in city bazaars (Roshan, Afghan Wireless or Etisalat). Plans with data cost just a few dollars. Coverage is good in cities and along main roads but may vanish in remote mountains. Hotel Wi-Fi is available mostly at higher-end hotels, sometimes for a fee. Plan on frequent outages and have offline maps and guides handy. Download necessary maps, phrasebooks or entertainment before traveling.
Security in Afghanistan has changed dramatically since 2021. The Taliban government proclaims stability, and in many places the gun battles of the insurgency have ended. Yet risks remain uneven. In the south (Helmand, Kandahar, Uruzgan), skirmishes by ISIS-affiliated groups have been reported. Kabul itself suffered a major bombing in 2024, showing that high-profile attacks can still occur. Isolated sectarian attacks by ISIS-K linger in certain cities.
Despite media alarmism, many travelers report feeling surprisingly safe, especially when on guided routes. Taliban checkpoints are frequent but orderly: if you carry the right paperwork and show respect, most stops end in a polite nod. Petty crime (mugging, pickpocketing of foreigners) is virtually unknown; locals look after tourists in their village out of hospitality. In fact, police officers in Bamyan or Mazar may even warn you to stay together if you separate, as a courtesy.
The main danger tends to be road accidents. Mountain roads are twisty; drivers share roads with pedestrians, goats and the occasional military convoy. Always wear a seat belt and if possible, travel by day. If you’re a careful traveler, you’re more likely to suffer jet lag or altitude sickness than violence.
Travel insurance options are extremely limited: only a few specialty insurers (like IATI or Travelex) have policies that cover Afghanistan. Read the fine print – many policies exclude kidnapping or helicopter evacuation unless you pay extra. Western embassies operate on a shoestring, and there’s no guarantee of quick help if something goes wrong. Assume that you are entirely responsible for yourself.
For male travelers, going solo is common outside the Pashtun south, though it can feel lonely. Female travelers generally join tours or bring a male escort. Reports from experienced female journalists say they often feel physically safe (locals will watch over you), but they must comply with strict modesty and cannot roam freely.
In summary, Afghanistan is safer for tourists than many fear, yet far from risk-free. The principal hazards now are logistical—vehicle breakdowns, altitude, long drives—rather than targeted violence. Always heed official travel advisories (which tend to be very cautious), but balance them with up-to-date reports from on-the-ground travelers. Be prepared, stay alert, and remember that the friendly people you meet often outweigh the statistics.
Spring (March–May): Spring is perhaps the most pleasant season. Winter snowmelt turns valleys green and wildflowers carpet the mountainsides. Ghazni’s apricot blossoms and Wakhan’s fields of poppies bloom in April. Days are mild (15–25°C even at altitude) and nights cool. Most roads are open by late March. However, if Ramadan falls in spring (it varies each year), expect restaurants to close earlier and energy levels to slow during daylight. This season is ideal for trekking, sightseeing and enjoying the countryside when it’s lush and fragrant.
Summer (June–August): Summer in the plains is hot and dry. In Kandahar or Helmand, daytime highs often reach 40°C. Kabul stays around 30–35°C. The heat makes visiting lowland cities tiring; many Afghans themselves stay indoors during midday. Yet summer has its rewards: it is the only time for very high-altitude areas. Wakhan and Nuristan become passable, with alpine meadows blossoming in July and August. Lakes like Band-e-Amir are milky-blue under the bright sun. Also, visibility is clear (no fog or mud), so the mountain views are spectacular. If traveling in summer, carry plenty of water and sun protection, and plan to rest in shady spots during the hottest hours.
Autumn (September–November): In autumn the weather cools gently from September. This is the second-best travel season. Harvest is abundant: fields of wheat turn golden, and grape and pomegranate harvests begin in October. Rivers run full with mountain runoff. Nights become chilly, especially by late November, and a light rain or snow becomes possible at high elevations. The landscape takes on a mellow glow – brown plains and yellow poplars by day, crisp clear stars by night. Tourist crowds thin after September, so October can be a great time for fewer people at monuments. Just be aware that by November some high roads (to Bamyan, Wakhan) may start to become difficult.
Winter (December–February): Winter can be severe in the mountains. Bamyan and higher passes see heavy snow; Band-e-Amir’s lakes freeze into a surreal white expanse. However, Kabul and Herat have relatively sunny winters (day highs 5–15°C, nights below freezing). Many interior roads (to Bamyan, Wardak, Nuristan) close or become very rough. Flight schedules are sparse. Some travelers prefer Kabul in winter for quiet streets and cheap off-season hotels. If you do visit in winter, pack warm layers, a down jacket and hot-drink supplies. Check ahead for road closures; for example, the highway from Bamyan to Parwan is often blocked by January. Nevertheless, winter’s contrast – snow-capped peaks and bazaar steam – can be a unique experience, with few tourists around.
Seasonal Tip: Generally, March–May and September–November are optimal. Plan around regional climate: if you want the Hindu Kush while it’s green, choose spring or early summer. If you prefer cooler valley treks and harvest festivals, autumn is best. Winter is only for hearty travelers prepared for snow and cold.
With just one week, focus on the north-central circuit.
– Day 1 (Kabul): Arrive, secure your provincial permit at the Ministry of Information, and visit the Sakhi Shrine or the Bird Market if time allows. In the evening, brief yourself on your itinerary and arrange transportation for the next day.
– Days 2–3 (Bamyan): Travel by minivan (5–6 hours) to Bamyan. Spend the full first day visiting the Buddha niches, local museum and City of Screams ruins. On the second day, tour Band-e-Amir National Park (6–8 hours round trip) to see the turquoise lakes. Return to Bamyan town for the night.
– Days 4–5 (Mazar-i-Sharif): Head north to Mazar (overnight drive or short flight from Bamyan). On arrival, visit the Blue Mosque and plaza. On the next day, take an excursion to Balkh (25 km away) to see the Green Mosque and old city ruins, then visit Takht-e Rustam on the return. Stay in Mazar the night before heading back.
– Day 6 (Back to Kabul): Return to Kabul by bus or car (you may break the journey at Bamyan again if needed) and rest.
– Day 7 (Departure): Use any remaining time for final city sightseeing or shopping in Kabul, then depart.
This 1-week loop keeps travel relatively short and hits the major highlights. Note that most travel days are long, so plan rest stops. If you skip anything, it’s usually Bamyan or Balkh, depending on your interests.
A two-week trip lets you circle through the west and south after the north.
– Days 1–2 (Kabul): Same as above – permits, quick Kabul tour.
– Days 3–4 (Bamyan): As above: the Buddhas and Band-e-Amir.
– Days 5–6 (Kandahar): Drive or fly to Kandahar. Explore central sites: the Shrine of Baba Wali, the old citadel and bazaars. Experience Pashtun cuisine (Kabuli pulao, bolani) at local restaurants. Remember that a foreign woman will need a male escort for outside visits.
– Days 7–9 (Herat): From Kandahar (via Kandahar’s sparse flight schedule or a long bus via Farah), reach Herat. Spend Day 7 arriving and resting, Day 8 touring the Great Mosque and Citadel, Day 9 in local bazaars and museums.
– Days 10–12 (Mazar-i-Sharif): Go north (flight via Kabul or a long drive) to Mazar. Cover the Blue Mosque, Balkh and environs as in the 1-week plan. You have an extra day here to rest or see more sights in Mazar (perhaps a picnic by a river).
– Days 13–14 (Return to Kabul): Spend Day 13 traveling back toward Kabul (you might break in Bamyan again for the night). On Day 14, arrive in Kabul and prepare for departure.
This itinerary touches all major regions and allows 2–3 days in each big city. By zigzagging (Kabul→Bamyan→Kandahar→Herat→Mazar→Kabul), you avoid backtracking over the same road. Permits: remember to include all these provinces (Kabul, Bamyan, Kandahar, Herat, Balkh, Samangan) on your permit list from the start. Coordinate logistics (especially flights) carefully in case of delays.
With three weeks, you can explore truly offbeat areas after the 2-week loop above.
– Days 1–10: As in the two-week itinerary (Kabul, Bamyan, Kandahar, Herat, Mazar).
– Days 11–13 (Nuristan): Return to Kabul and then take a domestic flight to Jalalabad (Nangarhar). From Jalalabad, drive north into Kunar and up into Nuristan (Permits needed at each district). Spend a couple of days trekking in areas like Nargi or Parun with an experienced local guide, staying in a simple guesthouse or camping.
– Days 14–16 (Kabul recovery): Travel back to Kabul, rest, and acquire any extra supplies (or spare a buffer day for delays).
– Days 17–19 (Wakhan Corridor): Fly or drive to Faizabad (Badakhshan). From there, head east on the Wakhan highway. Visit villages like Ishkashim (border to Tajikistan) and overnight in simple homestays. If time allows, do a 2-day hike toward Bozai Gumbaz or up to Khargush Pass. This requires special permits from Kabul and possibly an armed escort as per current rules.
– Days 20–21 (Wrap-up in Kabul): Return to Kabul via Faizabad and Fayzabad (requires creative routing), or fly if possible. Spend the last day relaxing and shopping in Kabul before departure.
This 3-week plan is intense. It adds wilderness treks in Nuristan and Wakhan (both very remote) on top of the main circuit. Only attempt it if you have no time constraints and extreme flexibility. Each trek may require its own permits or tribal permissions. Alternatively, if you want a more moderate 3-week trip, you could instead use the extra time in Kandahar, Bamyan or Herat to do multi-day hikes or cultural visits (e.g. a full day in Bamyan for hiking or Herat for villages).
If time is very limited (4–5 days), focus on Kabul and Bamyan only:
– Option: Day 1: Kabul (arrival, permits). Day 2: Bamyan (travel, Buddhas). Day 3: Bamyan (Band-e-Amir). Day 4: Kabul (return and fly out). Short trips outside this core will feel rushed, so better to see fewer places well.
What to say and do: When stopped by a checkpoint, greet the officer with a calm “Salam Alaikum” and a smile. Keep both hands on the steering wheel (if you are driving) or on your lap if you are a passenger, and avoid sudden movements. Officers will ask basic questions: your nationality, where you are coming from, where you are going, and who you are with. Answer concisely. If you are following your permit itinerary, say so clearly and show the permit. For example: “I am from Canada, visiting the Buddha site in Bamyan.” If the officer asks who is with you, indicate your guide or friend’s name.
Common questions and answers include: – “Where are you from?” – “I am [Your Nationality].” – “Where are you going?” – State the city or landmark and your reason (e.g. “I am going to Band-e-Amir National Park for a visit”). – “Who are you traveling with?” – Point to your guide or say “my guide.” – “How long will you stay?” – Give your planned duration, matching your visa (e.g. “about two weeks total”).
Body language: Sit upright and do not slouch. Before speaking, remove your sunglasses or cap. When showing documents, let the officer take them rather than gripping tightly and showing nervousness. If you need to take a sip of water or adjust clothing while waiting, do so calmly. Avoid yawning, frowning or crossing your arms. A relaxed but attentive posture signals respect.
Showing papers: Always have your passport and travel permit ready, one on top of the other. Hand them to the guard’s outstretched hand when asked. You can quietly retrieve them from your bag with both hands in full view before the officer boards your vehicle. While the officer examines them, sit still and patient. Once they hand your documents back, check that everything is still there before driving off.
If problems arise: If an officer seems upset or asks a question you don’t understand, stay calm. Do not argue. You may say, “I’m sorry, I do not mean any trouble” (in Dari: “Bebakhshid, intent man kharab nabud”) and then try to clarify. Often a short delay or polite apology resolves the issue. In extreme cases (like being held unusually long), you can respectfully request to see a senior officer by saying “Aga sahib?” which means “Sir, [the senior officer].”
Taliban flags: It is common to see Taliban flags at checkpoints or on vehicles. Having a small Taliban flag in your car (for example, a miniature white flag with Arabic script) can signal cooperation. If you display one, and an officer notices, just give a thumbs-up or say “Salam”. This gesture is not required but can speed up an interaction.
De-escalation: If a checkpoint orders you out of the car, do so slowly and calmly. Let them hold your documents or phone. If they require a search, step back and stand quietly. It helps to face them with your hands relaxed in front of you. Do not turn your back or walk around abruptly. If they ask you to do something (like move your car), comply. A simple nod and “Tashakur, Khan” (“Thank you, sir”) in Dari often ends the stop. Multiple stops are normal on any journey; each one will feel more routine as you go.
Afghanistan can feel socially intense: invitations to chai or meals happen everywhere. For a quiet afternoon, find a secluded spot. In Kabul, for example, the gardens of the British High Commission (by appointment) or the shaded courtyard of the Serena Hotel offer a calm break. Some inner courtyards off Darulaman Road can be nearly deserted midday.
Bamyan is ideal for solitude: trek a short distance from the city to valleys like Waras or Koktebel, where you may go hours without seeing another traveler. Early mornings in Bamyan can be especially tranquil as farmers prepare fields. Similarly, outside Mazar, a stroll along the banks of the Darband River or in the nearby orchards can be remarkably peaceful.
For slow travel, blend into daily routines. Sip tea and observe rather than rushing from sight to sight. In Herat, a café on Kohistan Road can be an oasis to people-watch. Read or journal in quiet spots like the old Gazur Gah shrine or the artists’ quarter of Shahr-e Naw in Herat. By pacing your time – spending two hours instead of one at a museum, or taking a long break at a roadside chai stall – you absorb the atmosphere and avoid sensory overload.
If you need to decline offers of hospitality, do so politely. For instance, if invited into a home but you need to move on, say “shukran” (thank you) and that you must continue your journey. Afghans will understand “I have another appointment” or “need to return to my hotel.” Always express gratitude before leaving.
Finally, embrace moments of silence. Many travelers find Afghanistan is as much a place for reflection as for sightseeing. A dawn hike around the Buddha site or a sunset by Herat’s historic walls can be meditative. Afghan tea houses don’t mind if you sit quietly alone – just order a cup of green tea and settle in. No one will force you to chat; a courteous nod or a gentle smile is enough company for an introvert traveler here.
Tourism and foreign currency were never major priorities for the old regime, but today the Taliban openly courts foreign visitors. The Ministry of Information and Culture (with offices in Kabul and some provinces) and local tourism committees speak positively about inviting tourists. Officials often mention job creation and hard currency as benefits. In Bamyan or Mazar, local administrators have told travelers they welcome foreign visitors as a source of income and as a symbol of normalcy. This means that if you follow the rules (permits, dress, behavior), many local commanders actually want you to spend time and money in their area. For example, the operator of a Bamyan guesthouse may openly thank you for staying and encouraging others to come.
That said, there is still bureaucracy. Expect officials to ask many questions or require paperwork – often they are simply doing their job. If you fall in line (for example, agreeing with a guard’s gentle reminder to cover up) the system moves on. The broad message is: “Follow our laws, and you may travel.” Many travelers find that once formalities are complete, checkpoints become brief and even friendly, and the remaining time on the road is uneventful.
Official rules under the Taliban can be confusing. Some edicts are published online or in public postings (for example dress codes for women, or bans on music and kiosks with loudspeakers). However, enforcement is mostly learned by example or passed down verbally. You will not receive a pamphlet at the border.
In practice, villagers and police find out norms through informal channels: word of mouth, local radio, or edicts on mosque walls. Most foreigners pick up the rules by asking a guide or observing local behavior. For instance, no sign is posted banning music in cars, but if a checkpoint guard hears pop music, he will tell you to turn it off. Similarly, you might notice that men on one side of town never shake women’s hands and realize that’s expected etiquette.
When unsure, err on the conservative side. Your guide will help interpret unspoken customs: for example, if you see nobody eating lunch in a city street at prayer time, you learn not to either. Over time, you will notice the patterns of questions at checkpoints (often the same five), which tells you what the authorities prioritize. The key is to watch and ask discreetly – Afghans generally understand that foreigners are learning, and they will not penalize a visitor for honest mistakes.
The strictness of Taliban rules varies by province. In Kandahar and Helmand, local commanders enforce the most conservative interpretation – foreign women without a burqa and a male escort simply are not expected to travel there. In Herat and Mazar, enforcement can be milder: men and women might sit together in a family home (especially among Shia communities) and checkpoints tend to simply verify documents. Bamyan’s Hazara authorities are also comparatively lenient; since few women travel alone here, enforcement focuses on basic decency (cover shoulders, etc.).
Even within a city, norms differ by neighborhood. In Kabul’s diplomatic district (Wazir Akbar Khan), dress codes are taken extremely seriously due to high visibility, whereas in a crowded bazaar off the ring road people pay more attention to daily commerce and less to fashion details (though modesty is still expected).
Checkpoints differ, too: rural posts may be run by young volunteers who chat curiously with you, while city checkpoints often have more formal military ranks. If you travel as a single woman, count on more thorough questioning in Kandahar, but not so much in the north. A man traveling alone will generally breeze through after initial questions (which still must match his permit).
Fear of the Taliban can make visitors worry about every possible misstep. In reality, most complaints fall into two categories: paperwork and morality.
On the paperwork side, lacking a valid visa, permit, or inter-city pass is the surest way to be bounced back. If you board a bus without a permit for the province you’re entering, expect to be told to disembark at the last checkpoint. The solution is simply time and having the right documents in hand. Small fines for missing paperwork (on the order of 500–1,000 AFN) may be imposed, but they are usually fixed amounts, not bribes.
On the morality side, the Taliban worry mainly about overt behavior. Filming women or girls without permission, loudly criticizing officials, showing signs of taboo practices or publicly drinking are what they target. For example, if a traveler loudly disparaged the regime on social media, local authorities would certainly intervene. But quietly reading an English newspaper in your hotel, or keeping a camera low in public, draws no notice. Even many local policemen do not look at tourists as criminals by default; they watch more to see you follow the rules than to punish.
In short, tourists usually “get in trouble” through ignorance (forgot permit, walked into a men’s only bathhouse, etc.) rather than purposeful defiance. As long as you remain respectful and by-the-book, most Taliban will let you continue. They understand you came to spend money and goodwill, not to lecture them. Incidents that make headlines – arrests or fines – have been rare for ordinary travelers. If you do have an unfortunate encounter, stay calm, comply, and use it as a learning experience.
Before Islam, Afghanistan was dotted with Buddhist temples and stupas. Only a few survive to this day. Takht-e Rustam (Samangan Province) is a classic example: a 28-meter-tall stupa carved into a rock cliff from the Kushan era (circa 3rd century). You can walk inside this hollow tower. Nearby is a small, flat-roofed monastery ruin and a meditation chamber where monks once lived. Another ancient stupa is in Cheshmeh-ye Sokhta near Kabul (though it’s mostly buried now).
Most tangible Buddhist relics are found around Bamyan. Aside from the enormous Buddha niches (now empty) and Shahr-e Gholghola, you may spot smaller stupas and carved torsos of Bodhisattvas on cliff faces. In Fayzabad (Badakhshan) are two ruined stupas in a village. These sites are nearly always outdoors, so enjoy them at sunrise or sunset when the light is gentle.
After Islam’s arrival, Afghanistan became home to many dynasties, each leaving its architectural style. One of the masterpieces is the Minaret of Jam (11th–12th century), a tall spiraling brick tower in remote Ghor Province. Its surface is covered in intricate Arabic inscriptions and floral patterns. Visiting Jam requires a multi-day trek or helicopter, but the minaret stands as a symbol of early Islamic art in Afghanistan.
The Ghaznavids and Ghorids (11th–12th centuries) built major structures like the Ghazni fortress (now mostly ruins) and the tomb of Sultan Mahmud. Under the Timurids (15th century), Herat became a capital of art. The Great Mosque in Herat, the Gazur Gah shrine (with its twin blue minarets), and Queen Goharshad’s tomb all showcase glazed tile mosaics, symmetrical iwans and lofty domes. A hallmark of Timurid style is the persianate blue-tiled arch with gold calligraphy, seen in Herat and in the smaller Shrine of Sultan Mahmud of Ghazni (1990s reconstruction).
Later Islamic influences came from the Mughals and Safavids. The Friday Mosque in Kabul (17th century, albeit rebuilt later) has a Persian-iwan layout reminiscent of Isfahan. In Herat and Kandahar, there are small Qajar-influenced mosques with mirror mosaics and Persian tilework.
The 20th century added a different layer. In Kabul, look for Soviet-era concrete structures: the former Inter-Continental Hotel (now rebuilt as Serena) and the Hilal Hotel (a tall grey tower). These have a Brutalist style with simple block shapes and minimal decoration. Near Darulaman, the foundation of Amanullah Khan’s Darul Aman Palace is visible – a 1920s steel frame of an enormous European-style palace, still incomplete after 100 years. Many Afghan government offices and universities built in the 1960s–70s are plain concrete boxes with few adornments.
In recent years, some modern buildings have appeared: new embassy compounds, a few shopping malls, the Sherpao Tower in Karachi (for the Pakistani base). These use glass and steel facades. Also look out for photovoltaic arrays atop buildings and wind turbines near the airport (improved infrastructure initiatives).
First-time travelers to Afghanistan often face a rude awakening. It is not a polished tourist destination. Roads are narrow and signposts rare; even city neighborhoods can be confusing. Many visitors underestimate how slowly things move: a 100 km journey might take half a day. Bureaucracy can be maddening – even after paperwork, officials may ask for extra signatures or stamps you didn’t expect. Allow double the time you think you need.
Honest awareness of these realities will help you adjust expectations. Afghanistan’s deep rewards come from accepting these challenges as part of the journey. Pack patience, a sense of humor, and a few good books – the experience will not be easy, but it is unlike any other place on earth.
Should one travel to Afghanistan under Taliban rule? This is a deeply personal choice. Supporters of tourism argue that bringing foreign visitors helps ordinary Afghans earn livelihoods and does not directly enrich the Taliban elite. A guesthouse booked in Bamyan or a purchase of handicrafts in Mazar puts cash into families and local markets. Many guides and shopkeepers will thank you for coming, noting how few outsiders visit now. Some locals even say they feel forgotten by the world, and your presence restores some pride.
On the other hand, critics point out that any foreign spending inevitably filters through government channels. Hotels and permits generate revenue for the state budget. Every taxi ride or museum fee contributes a bit to the regime’s coffers, whether through formal taxation or layers of bribes. Even individual guides must pay taxes or unofficial “security fees” up the chain. Symbolically, waving your passport under Taliban banners can feel like giving the regime a propaganda win. International media and governments have condemned the Taliban’s record, and some will see tourism as normalization.
There is no single right answer. If ethics weigh on you, consider these factors: – Focus on local benefit. Prioritize homestays and family-run guesthouses over large foreign-run camps. This directs your money to villagers rather than big organizations. – Amplify local voices. If possible, visit schools, craft workshops or charities (with permission) and support them. Small donations to teachers or tip to artisans can mean more to them than a tour fee. – Stay informed. Follow Afghan news and journalists. Listen to what Afghan guides or NGO workers say about tourism. They have a range of opinions: some rely on it for income, others worry about political implications.
Ultimately, tourism in Afghanistan is not a neutral act. Many travelers find it a worthy journey if done thoughtfully. Arrive with humility, spend responsibly, and be prepared to explain your own choices. One traveler’s reply to “Should I go?” was: “I went because the Afghans asked me to come.” He remembered local friends saying they felt proud to host visitors. The decision must be yours, guided by your values and what you hope to achieve.
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