Phở bò Nam Định

Rinse the bones. Put them in a large pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil and blanch for 10 minutes. Drain, rinse the bones and wash the pot to remove the scum.

Char the halved onion and split ginger in a dry skillet or under a broiler, turning until browned in spots. Return the clean bones to the pot with 4 litres fresh water and the brisket. Bring just to a boil, skim, add the charred aromatics and lower to a gentle simmer. Leave the lid slightly ajar.

Toast the star anise, cinnamon, coriander seeds and cloves in a dry pan for 1–2 minutes until fragrant. Put them in a spice bag or clean tied muslin and add it for the final 60 minutes of simmering. Simmer the broth and brisket gently for about 3 hours after blanching, skimming as needed; do not let it boil hard.

Lift out the brisket when fork-tender. Check that the centre has reached at least 63°C / 145°F, then rest it for 10 minutes before slicing thinly across the grain. Keep it covered. Let the bones continue simmering if needed to complete the broth.

Strain the broth through a fine sieve and discard the bones, aromatics and spice bag. Stir in 45 ml fish sauce and 5 g salt. Taste and keep the broth at a gentle simmer. Skim excess surface fat if desired.

Prepare the dried rice noodles according to the package directions using 2.5 litres water. Drain well and divide among four warmed bowls. Arrange the sliced brisket, 50 g sliced onion, scallions and cilantro over the noodles.

Bring the broth to a lively simmer and ladle about 600 ml into each bowl so the noodles and beef are covered. Serve at once with lime wedges and chili on the side. Keep raw-beef tools away from cooked noodles and garnish.

Refrigerate leftover broth, beef, noodles and garnish within 2 hours (within 1 hour above 32°C / 90°F), separately in shallow containers at or below 4°C / 40°F. Use within 3 days or freeze. Reheat broth to a boil and leftovers to 74°C / 165°F before serving.