Lisbon – City Of Street Art
Lisbon is a city on Portugal's coast that skillfully combines modern ideas with old world appeal. Lisbon is a world center for street art although…
In the Dubrovnik region, winters once meant long nights, strong winds along the Adriatic, and kitchens that worked hard to stretch preserved food through the cold months. From that setting comes zelena menestra, a deep green cabbage stew threaded with smoked meats. Historical records trace this dish back to the fifteenth century in Konavle, the fertile hinterland just behind the walled city. Today it still appears on family tables and in country taverns as one of the area’s defining preparations, often mentioned alongside prosciutto, cheese in oil and other regional standards.
The flavour starts with smoke. Dalmatian prosciutto on the bone, cured bacon, smoked lamb or mutton, and robust pork sausages simmer together until they soften and perfume the pot. Each cut brings something slightly different: ham bone gives gelatin and depth, lamb adds a rustic edge, and sausage seasons the broth from within. Classic descriptions speak of “various cuts of dry cured meat” and “rich, full-flavoured” broth, all supported by generous greens and potatoes.
The “green” in green menestra comes from a mix of sturdy winter vegetables. Collard-like raštika, kale or Savoy cabbage, and white cabbage are cooked until spoon-tender yet still structured enough to stand beside the meat. Potatoes round out the stew and soak up the smoky broth. In traditional recipes from Dubrovnik and Konavle, the finished dish should be compact rather than brothy; vegetables and meat sit in a shallow pool of liquid instead of floating in it.
Different local versions exist. Tourist board recipes mention a “City” green menestra along with Župska and Primorska variations, all built around the same core idea: assorted smoked meats, greens and potatoes cooked together in one pot. Rural households often adapt the mix according to what hangs in the smokehouse at that moment. Goat or dried pork may replace lamb, and the ratio of greens to meat shifts from house to house. That flexibility is part of the dish’s character; it reflects a way of cooking rooted in preservation, thrift and seasonal rhythm.
This version keeps the Dubrovnik structure and flavour profile while shaping the method for a modern home kitchen. The recipe begins with a brief pre-boil for the cured meats, which tempers the salt and heavy smoke without losing character. Collards and cabbage are blanched to soften their bitterness, then simmered in the same pot where the meat has already given up its flavour. A final spoonful of lard and olive oil ties everything together and gives the surface a gentle sheen. The result is a thick, smoky winter soup that works as a full meal in a bowl, ideal for holidays, Sunday lunches or any icy day that calls for something sturdy and honest.
6
servings30
minutes135
minutes480
kcalDubrovnik green cabbage stew, or zelena menestra, brings together collard greens, kale, white cabbage and potatoes with a generous mix of smoked meats in one large pot. Dalmatian-style prosciutto on the bone, smoked lamb or mutton, bacon and sausage simmer slowly until the broth turns deeply savoury and aromatic. Blanched greens then cook in that broth until tender, giving the stew its distinctive green colour and hearty texture. A final spoonful of melted lard and olive oil adds warmth and gloss. The method is straightforward, suited to a winter weekend or holiday meal, and the stew holds well, so leftovers taste even more rounded on the second day.
400 g smoked ham hock or Dalmatian prosciutto on the bone — core cured flavour and gelatin for body
300 g smoked lamb or mutton (kaštradina) — traditional choice that adds robust, slightly rustic depth; smoked pork shoulder works when lamb is unavailable
250 g smoked bacon or pancetta — provides fat and a gentle smoky edge
250 g firm smoked pork sausages — home-style sausages are classic; a mild or moderately spiced chorizo can stand in where local sausage is hard to find
2.0–2.2 L cold water — base liquid for simmering the meats and vegetables
2 bay leaves — subtle herbal background
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns — slow-releasing heat in the broth
1 large yellow onion, peeled and halved — soft sweetness and aroma
3 cloves garlic, lightly crushed — gentle garlic note without sharpness
700 g collard greens or raštika, trimmed — tough stems removed, leaves cut into wide strips; core green flavour of the dish
400 g kale or Savoy cabbage, cored — cut into thick ribbons or wedges
400 g white cabbage, cored — wedges hold together in the pot and give sweetness
600 g waxy potatoes, peeled — cut into large chunks; hold shape through long cooking
2 tablespoons pork lard — traditional finishing fat; clarified butter works for those who do not use lard
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil — rounds out the flavour and softens the smoke
Fine sea salt, to taste — added cautiously, since smoked meats carry significant salt
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste — final seasoning at the end
Rinse and pre-boil the meats - Rinse all smoked meats under warm running water and scrape any heavy soot from the surface. Place them in a large heavy pot, cover with cold water by several centimetres, bring to a steady boil, cook 10 minutes, then discard the liquid to reduce salt and smoke intensity.
Start the main simmer - Return the meats to the pot and add 2.0–2.2 L fresh cold water. Add the halved onion, crushed garlic, bay leaves and whole peppercorns. Bring to a gentle simmer, skimming any foam, and cook for 45–60 minutes until the meats begin to soften but are not yet falling apart.
Trim and cut the greens - While the meats simmer, strip tough stems from collard greens or raštika and kale or Savoy cabbage. Cut leaves into wide strips, about 3–4 cm wide. Cut white cabbage into chunky wedges so they stay intact during cooking.
Blanch the greens (optional but helpful) - Bring a second large pot of salted water to a boil. Add collard greens and kale or Savoy cabbage, cook 3–5 minutes until slightly softened, then lift out with a slotted spoon and drain well. This step softens bitterness and a portion of the salt drawn from the broth later, while still keeping colour.
Prepare the potatoes - Peel the potatoes and cut into large chunks, roughly 3–4 cm. Keep in cold water to prevent browning until needed.
Add potatoes to the meat broth - After the meats have simmered 45–60 minutes and are partly tender, add the drained potato chunks to the pot. Maintain a gentle simmer and cook 15 minutes so the potatoes start to soften and absorb flavour.
Add the cabbage and greens - Add the white cabbage wedges to the pot, nestling them between the meats and potatoes. After 5 minutes, add the blanched collard greens and kale or Savoy cabbage, pressing them down into the broth. The liquid should almost cover the vegetables; add a small amount of hot water only when needed.
Simmer until everything is tender and compact - Continue to cook at a gentle simmer for 40–50 minutes. The potatoes should be fully tender, greens soft but not mushy, and meats very tender. The stew should be thick and compact with only a modest layer of liquid at the bottom of the pot.
Adjust the meat pieces - Lift the larger pieces of ham hock and lamb or mutton onto a board. Slice or pull the meat from the bone into rustic chunks, discarding excess gristle, then return the meat to the pot. Check the broth level again; it should resemble a dense stew rather than a thin soup.
Finish with lard and olive oil - In a small pan, gently melt the lard with the olive oil until fluid and warm. Pour this mixture over the surface of the stew and simmer 5–10 minutes more so the fat disperses and the flavours settle. Taste, then season cautiously with salt and freshly ground pepper.
Rest before serving - Take the pot off the heat and let it stand, covered, for 10–15 minutes. This rest allows the broth to thicken slightly and the smoky flavour to distribute evenly. Serve meat, greens and potatoes together in deep bowls, spooning some of the concentrated broth over each portion.
Approximate values per serving, based on 6 servings from the quantities above and standard reference data for cabbage, potatoes and mixed smoked meats of similar stews.
| Nutrient | Approx. Amount per Serving |
|---|---|
| Calories | ~480 kcal |
| Carbohydrates | ~20 g |
| Protein | ~28 g |
| Fat | ~30 g |
| Fiber | ~4 g |
| Sodium | ~1100 mg |
| Key Allergens | None inherent; check sausages for gluten or dairy additives |
These figures serve as rough estimates and will shift with different meat choices, fat content of sausages and bacon, trimming of visible fat, and the exact ratio of vegetables to meat in each portion.
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