Talk
The official languages of Hong Kong are Cantonese and English.
Cantonese is the main language spoken by the locals. The Hong Kong variant is actually the same as Guangzhou’s on the mainland, but it contains some English words and slang, which often sounds strange to other Cantonese speakers. (For example, “我唔sure得唔得,” which means “I’m not sure if this is right.”) Cantonese is the lingua franca in many overseas Chinese communities and in Guangdong and Guangxi provinces. Like all Chinese languages, Cantonese is a tonal language and is definitely not easy for foreigners to master, but locals always appreciate visitors making the effort to speak the language, so learning a few simple greetings will make it easier for you to get to know the locals.
Unlike Hanyu Pinyin – the standard transcription system for Mandarin phonetics – Cantonese has not yet developed a recognized transcription system, and locals rarely bother to learn it. There are, however, some accurate phonetic systems for learners, such as the Yale or Jyutpin system.
As a former British colony, English is a widespread second language, and while it is far from ubiquitous, the chances of meeting an English speaker in Hong Kong are still far greater than in other East Asian cities. Due to the growing importance of Mandarin, the younger generation is often less comfortable with English than previous generations. Learning English often begins in kindergarten, and a fluent knowledge of English can be a prerequisite for a good job. Many employees and business people speak English at a high level. In contrast, the English skills of the middle working class are rather limited, especially outside of the major tourist areas. In addition, while many people understand written English fairly well, they do not necessarily speak it well.
English is the official language of Hong Kong, and the authorities are legally obliged to employ English-speaking staff. There are two English-language terrestrial television channels: TVB Pearl and RTHK. English-language films are almost always shown in cinemas with the original soundtrack and Chinese subtitles, although children’s films, especially cartoons, are often dubbed into Cantonese. British English is still widely used in Hong Kong, especially in government and legal documents. In the media, the South China Morning Post and the two terrestrial television stations use British English. Place names like Victoria Harbour (not Harbor) are reminders of Hong Kong’s colonial heritage. Even modern buildings like the International Finance Centre (not Center) retain the tradition of British spelling. Most high schools and universities teach in English, although most courses are taught in Cantonese.
It is also important to know that many English street names are rarely used by locals and cab drivers. Even a local who speaks English fluently may not know the English name! Before going anywhere, ask the hotel staff to write the street names in Chinese characters.
Although the majority of Hong Kongers are not fluent in Mandarin, they can usually understand it to some extent. Mandarin has been compulsory in all public schools since the handover, and with the huge influx of tourists from the mainland, many employees in the tourism industry frequently speak Mandarin. Mandarin-speaking staff are on duty at most businesses in major tourist areas and at all government agencies. Given the current socio-political tensions with mainland Chinese, some young locals are reluctant to speak Mandarin, as the language is closely associated with perceptions of cultural domination and political interference.
All official signs are bilingual in Chinese and English. As part of the “one country, two systems” policy, Hong Kong continues to use the traditional Chinese characters and not the simplified Chinese characters used on the mainland.
In addition to Cantonese, a significant minority of Hong Kong’s elderly residents, especially in the various walled villages, speak Hakka. Most of these people are bilingual in Hakka and Cantonese, and Hakka is disappearing among the younger generation.
Culture
Hong Kong has considerable differences from mainland China due to its cultural heritage. The majority of the population is descended from ethnic Chinese who fled the PRC during the colonial period and found refuge in Hong Kong. The indigenous people of Hong Kong have retained many aspects of traditional Chinese culture that were abandoned on the mainland, including religion, public holidays, music, traditional writing, and the use of a regional language (Cantonese). Because of Hong Kong’s history, British influences have also been incorporated into the local culture. After its handover to China in 1997, the city retained a strong independent English legal system, effective anti-corruption measures, a free press and a free currency.
The University of Hong Kong regularly conducts surveys on the identity of the population and finds that only a minority of citizens consider themselves Chinese citizens, while most feel they belong to an identity of their own in Hong Kong. This sense of a separate identity has become stronger over the years of surveys. The mainland authorities seem both perplexed and indignant at the rise of such subversive beliefs in an apparently disloyal Hong Kong.
Hong Kong also has a significant minority of permanent residents who are not PRC citizens or ethnically Chinese, but who are recognized as de facto citizens by the Basic Law. These include descendants of the British and Gurka populations of the colonial era.
Relations between China and Hong Kong are, as always, a contentious and complicated issue. Hong Kongers generally do not deny their Chinese roots and are proud to be culturally and ethnically Chinese; racist remarks against Chinese or crude remarks about traditional Chinese customs will certainly offend Hong Kongers. On the other hand, many locals consider the behavior of mainland Chinese to be rude and uncivilized, and in recent years, tensions have arisen between locals and mainland Chinese because of these cultural differences. You will often hear the phrase “Mainland China” (Daai luk) or “Inland” (Noi dei) from Hong Kongers who want to distinguish themselves from other Chinese, both culturally and politically. In general, it is best not to engage in a discussion about Mainland Chinese with Hong Kong citizens.
Religion
Many world religions are practiced freely in Hong Kong and there is generally no problem talking about religion with the locals. The Chinese majority generally practice the traditional Chinese religions, Buddhism and Taoism. As in many other parts of Asia, swastikas are used in Hong Kong as a religious symbol by Buddhists and the Hindu minority.
10% of the population is Christian, and religious services in English are held throughout the region. Hindus and Muslims came from India, Nepal, Bangladesh and Pakistan as part of the British Empire, and the Kowloon Masjid and Islamic Center are famous for their prayers and research.
The Falun Gong religion is officially allowed in Hong Kong, unlike on the mainland where it is banned. The group often silently protests against the Chinese Communist Party outside tourist centers, where it is also often silently opposed by pro-Pijing Hong Kongers who reject their views.
Politics
In Hong Kong, freedom of speech and freedom of the press are protected by law. Hong Kongers are free to criticize their government. Websites are not blocked. Hong Kong bookstores carry colorful collections of books about the communist regime and many sensitive political topics, although several Hong Kong booksellers, who have widely distributed books considered derogatory by the Chinese government, have recently (2015-2016) mysteriously appeared on the mainland and reportedly been removed. Despite growing concerns about self-censorship, media outlets are diversifying to bring in different voices.
Although freedom is assured, Hong Kong people are particularly sensitive to changes that could affect the freedom they have enjoyed so far. Once considered apolitical and pragmatic, Hong Kongers are also more actively discussing politics, including a proposal to introduce universal suffrage for the election of the region’s chief executive.
On June 4, large political rallies are held each year to commemorate the bloodshed in Tiananmen Square in 1989. July 1 commemorates the reunification of the SAR with China. After more than 500,000 people took to the streets in 2003 to demand universal suffrage, this holiday has become a symbolic day of protest every year.
Local political parties are largely divided between a pro-Beijing camp and a pro-democracy camp. While many want universal suffrage, which Beijing has promised but not yet granted, many also try not to offend the mainland, believing that Hong Kong’s prosperity depends on further economic integration with China. These differences can also be seen on many issues such as the 1989 Tiananmen massacre, Tibetan and Taiwanese independence, and democracy in China. In Hong Kong, where information flows freely and people are highly educated, political views are very different. After all, the city has served as China’s (and Taiwan’s before the 1990s) information hub for the competing dissemination of propaganda and “dissenting opinions.” In Hong Kong, a political discussion can lead to debate, but not to trouble.
Unlike Taiwan, Hong Kong’s independence had never been widely debated before and after 1997 and had received little public support until recently. However, since the umbrella protests in 2014, the desire for greater autonomy has been growing among those increasingly frustrated by Beijing’s slow pace of allowing democratic reforms. Yet very few Hong Kong citizens are calling for true independence from the mainland.
Manners and etiquette
Hong Kong is a fast-paced society, where the phrase “m goi” (唔該, “m” sounds like “hmm”), which literally means “I shouldn’t (bother you)”, is often used in situations where one would say “excuse me” or “thank you”.
The “M goi” (I shouldn’t) mentality goes as far as not wanting to bother anyone as long as possible. When coughing, always cover your mouth with the inside of your elbow, as this part of your arm is not often in contact with other people and thus prevents the spread of pathogens. If you have a fever, wear a mask. Spitting and littering, an offense punishable by a $1,500 fine, is considered rude because it disturbs others. Hong Kong is noisy because of its huge population density, but it is not advisable to make more noise, which will certainly disturb others. Making a loud phone call on the bus, for example, is considered self-centered and rude.
Queue jumping is taboo and you may be refused service, as everyone wants to follow an orderly, quick and hopefully undisturbed path. If you smoke in front of a non-smoker, you should always ask permission, as they may think you are trying to seriously disrupt their health. Many smokers simply walk away to smoke, even in a place where smoking is allowed by law.
Unlike public transport in some major cities like Tokyo or London, where it is common to see passengers eating or drinking (even if they do so carefully and keep the place clean), such behavior is strictly forbidden in all areas of MTR stations, in train compartments (except in intercity trains) and in most buses. The reason for this is the concern for cleanliness in public places, and there have been instances of misbehaving mainland Chinese visitors being insulted by locals after refusing to stop eating food and being rude to locals. Drinking a few sips of pure water is generally tolerated, but it is common for a local passenger to politely ask you to stop consuming, or even throw your food away if you eat it conspicuously (for example, if you are eating a hamburger and holding a Coke). In such a case, simply obey the request and respond politely, and you’ll still be off the hook.
Although Hong Kong generally has a good reputation for customer service, it is considered strange to exchange a friendly word with a stranger, unless they are pregnant, disabled, or an elderly person in obvious distress. Saying “hello” to a stranger at the bus stop will probably be viewed with suspicion. It is unusual for people to hold the door for strangers, and supermarket employees or bank tellers rarely ask about your day. Staff in stores and restaurants may not even thank you if you pay.
Superstition
Superstitions are part of the Hong Kong psyche and can be seen everywhere. Many buildings are influenced by the principles of fengshui, a style of decoration that combines the five elements (gold, wood, water, fire, earth), which, according to believers, is supposed to bring luck, wealth, better health, good exam results, good relationships and even a baby boy.
Many buildings do not have a 14th or 24th floor, which phonetically means “you must die” and “you die easily”. They like the numbers 18 (you will become rich), 369 (vivacity, longevity, permanence), 28 (become rich easily) and 168 (become rich forever).
Hong Kongers like to joke about their superstitions, but that doesn’t mean they ignore them. If you visit your friends in Hong Kong, never offer them a watch, because “offering a watch” means phonetically “attending a funeral”. At a wedding party, do not serve pears, because “sharing a pear” sounds like “parting”. Some people refuse to open an umbrella inside the house because a spirit, thought to fear the sun, might’ hide it. If you break a mirror, it brings seven years of misfortune.
Business
When giving or receiving a business card, always do so with both hands and a slight bow of the head, otherwise you will be considered either disrespectful or ignorant, even if you are a stranger. Similarly, when greeting someone, bow your head slightly and give a firm handshake, but you do not have to bow.
You will find that the cashier may also give you receipts or change with both hands. This is considered a gesture of respect. Since you are the customer, it is up to you to decide whether or not to do the same when handing cash to the cashier.
Dress
When the thermometer hits 30 degrees Celsius, expect many locals to wear warm clothes to protect themselves from the harshness of air conditioners, which are often found on public transportation and in places like movie theaters and shopping malls. This is indeed wise, as the extreme change in temperature can make people sick.
On the other hand, when the temperature drops below 20 degrees Celsius, people start to dress very warmly to protect themselves from the “cold”.
Women in Hong Kong are known for their fairly conservative dress code, although halter tops and sleeveless tops are not unusual and acceptable, while teenagers and young adults can very often be seen in hotpants or shorts. Public nudity is prohibited. It is also forbidden to be completely naked on the beach.
The dress code for men, especially for tourists, is less conservative than it used to be. Even in five-star hotels, casual dress is generally acceptable; however, you should find out for yourself before dining in these establishments. Tourists from colder climates sometimes assume that wearing shorts is a reasonable idea in the tropics, but hairy knees may seem out of place in Hong Kong.
LGBT in Hong Kong
Homosexuality was decriminalized in 1991. The age of protection between two males is 16 years, according to a 2006 Hong Kong Court of Appeal ruling, while there is no law for two females. Same-sex marriages are not recognized and there is no anti-discrimination legislation based on sexuality. Public displays of affection are not common, but are generally tolerated, although they will certainly attract curious looks. Homophobic harassment is unknown, although an effeminate boy may be a target of harassment at school.
People in Hong Kong mostly respect personal freedom regarding their sexuality. Prominent film star Leslie Cheung has openly admitted to being bisexual, but his work and personality are still widely respected. His suicide in 2003 shocked many, and his fans, especially women, have shown considerable support for his partner.
Although there have been recent gay pride parades in Hong Kong, there is no apparent gay community in everyday life. Coming out to strangers or in the office is still considered strange and most people remain silent on the subject.
Gay bars and clubs are mainly found in Central, Sheung Wan, Causeway Bay and Tsim Sha Tsui (TST). The quality of these establishments varies greatly and may disappoint those who expect something similar to London, Paris or New York. Dim Sum Magazine, available for free in most cafes, restaurants, bars and clubs, is Hong Kong’s bilingual LGBT magazine, which gives a good overview of gay and lesbian parties and events in Hong Kong. There is also a gay and lesbian section in HK Magazine (free, in English only) and TimeOut Hong Kong.
The Hong Kong Lesbian and Gay Film Festival is one of the longest running LGBT events in Hong Kong and all of Asia. The festival, which will celebrate its 20th anniversary in 2009, brings various international and regional LGBT films to Hong Kong. The festival usually takes place in November. In 2009, Hong Kong hosted the Gay Pride for the second time, with more than 1,800 people participating.