Top 10 – Europe Party Cities
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Wandering into Amsterdam’s De Wallen is like stepping into a time-worn tapestry of canals, centuries-old brick alleys, and neon-lit windows. The oldest part of the city unfolds in a network of narrow streets—Oudezijds Voorburgwal, Oudezijds Achterburgwal, Oudekerksplein and intertwining steegs (alleys) —all converging around the spire of Oude Kerk (Old Church), built in the 13th century. Once a harbor quarter where medieval merchants and sailors mingled, this one-square-kilometer district still retains the weathered architecture of Amsterdam’s Golden Age: tall, gabled canal houses, gnarled wooden bridges, and hidden courtyards.
Under daytime skies, the ochre-brick facades and green-tinged wooden shutters give way to unexpected scenes – small shops, terraces, and even a nursery school tucked between windows draped with red velvet. By night, those same alleys shimmer with reflected neon and whispered promises, as neon signs and red-lit window frames animate the canals with scarlet glow. It’s a place of contrasts: a centuries-old residential neighborhood, a center of nightlife, and a global symbol of Dutch tolerance all at once.
Bicycles lined along a canal under the red-lit windows of De Wallen at night, Amsterdam. Red lanterns reflected in the water set a surreal, electric scene as the district comes alive after dark. For a visitor, the geography of De Wallen can feel labyrinthine. Start at Damrak (the wide canal street from Central Station), cross under the stone Oude Brug, and find yourself in Oudezijds Voorburgwal. Turn into any of the perpendicular steegs—Trompettersteeg, Stoofsteeg, Runsstraat—and you enter the tight maze where the city’s oldest “window brothels” stand. As Rick Steves observes, De Wallen’s canals are the “holy needle” around which the red-light district spins. Indeed, local guides note that De Wallen contains roughly 200 red-lit windows where sex workers offer services. One famous alley, Trompettersteeg, is barely a meter wide – often cited as the narrowest street in the world – where curtained window-fronts once discreetly signaled business. These winding streets, traced by slow-moving canal boats and the laughter of tourists, reveal the District’s gritty charm: the varnished wood of 17th-century facades, bicycles locked to cast-iron railings, and signs for museums and cafés wedged amid prostitution windows.
Walking through De Wallen is to feel layers of history underfoot. The very names evoke its past: De Wallen (“the walls”) and Walletjes (“little walls”) refer to the old fortified canals and city ramparts that date to the 13th century. In medieval times this quarter was on the frontier of Amsterdam, where foreign merchants docked and lively taverns sprang up. By the 16th century, much of the adult commerce here was shrouded or hidden; Protestant city authorities briefly banned sex work during the Reformation, driving it underground. (Later, in the Napoleonic era, Amsterdam legalized prostitution again and even instituted mandatory health checks to protect soldiers – earning sex workers a kind of “red card”).
Today, De Wallen wears these layers visibly: centuries-old canal mansions stand next to post-war rebuilds, and modest green spaces like Oudekerksplein lie alongside neon-lit sex shops. If you look closely, many doorways and street plaques hint at other eras. For example, Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic) just off Oudezijds Achterburgwal is a hidden 17th-century Catholic church built in a house; locals sometimes pass it unaware. The Oude Kerk itself is more than an architectural marvel (its interior is covered by 2,500 gravestones underfoot); it is a cultural hub hosting modern art exhibits to this day. These are the anchors of the neighborhood: a medieval church, a covert chapel, and the twisty street plan of the canal quarter, all framing a community that quietly endures amidst the bustle.
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To truly appreciate De Wallen, map out a walking route and explore step by step. A recommended loop begins near Dam Square (on the north side of the Dam) and proceeds southeast along Oudezijds Voorburgwal. Here, citizens sip coffee at canal-side cafés and locals live above small markets. Pass under a stone bridge (with a view of the canal’s green water) and continue toward Oudekerksplein, where the Oude Kerk stands. Pause to look up at its gothic spire; on one corner of the square you’ll see the Prostitution Information Center (PIC) – a small museum and help center run by former sex worker Mariska Majoor (flanked by a bronze statue of a workwoman) that educates about the trade. Proceed down Oudezijds Achterburgwal (the narrower canal behind the church), where hundreds of window brothels cluster.
Turn right into Venussteeg and then left on Staalstraat for a closer look at the iconic thin windows with red curtains. Make sure to keep to the sidewalks; many alleys are only two people wide and bustling at night. Continue east onto Zeedijk, a lively street straddling the edge of Chinatown, then hook north on Bloedstraat or Brouwersgracht to loop around through the smaller walletjes behind Oude Kerk. Return via Vlooienburgstraat or Damstraat to circle back to Dam Square. This walking route takes you past key intersections: Damrak–Oudezijds (tourist entrances), Oudekerksplein (the plaza at Old Church), Oudezijds Achterburgwal–Stoofsteeg (cluster of brothel windows), and Zeedijk (historic Chinatown street).
Along the way you’ll cross picture-postcard canal bridges and pass under hanging lanterns. Each step feels atmospheric: the murmuring of water, the chatter of tourists, and – depending on the hour – the muffled voices of women behind the windows or the distant thump of nightclub music. (For more formal tours, nearby attractions include the Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum and Condomerie, which speak to Amsterdam’s liberal culture.)
The practice that gives De Wallen its international fame has long roots here. Amsterdam legalized prostitution in 2000, but its regulation predates that by centuries. Today prostitution in Amsterdam is legal for consenting adults, provided certain rules are followed. The core of the industry in De Wallen is window prostitution: sex workers rent small cubicle rooms with a window facing the street, discreetly illuminated with red lights and often blacklights. Each woman is a self-employed entrepreneur: she pays rent (usually 50–70 euros per hour) to a brothel operator who supplies the space, security, and cleaning.
In return, the worker keeps her fees and negotiates prices. There are no pimps; indeed, the Dutch have long championed the idea that sex work should not be hidden but harnessed as a regulated profession. As Rick Steves notes, sex workers here “operate as independent business[people], with no need for pimps,” and they even push panic buttons to summon police if a client turns dangerous. This pragmatic approach is under constant review: in late 2023 the national government announced plans to strengthen sex workers’ labor rights and reduce stigma, and Amsterdam has debated raising the legal age to 21 (it has already stopped hiring workers younger than 21 to its window program).
Daily life in a brothel is surprisingly orderly. Operators are legally required to keep windows clean, well-lit, and safe: cameras, private guards, and panic buttons are standard. Police and city inspectors regularly check on venues, and workers must display proof (Chamber of Commerce registration, residence documents) at the start of a shift. For their part, workers are free to refuse any client, enforce schedule limits (maximum ~11 hours per day), and work only when they choose. Health checks are voluntary but encouraged; many brothels share lists of local clinics. In practice, the scene is far more legal than it might appear to a stranger. (Rick Steves wryly calls it an “in-your-face, graphic” spectacle but points out “sex workers are registered… and have health insurance and regular checks” in the pragmatic Dutch system.)
Despite the legal framework, exploitation and trafficking remain serious concerns in Amsterdam. Forced or underage prostitution is strictly criminalized. Victims are increasingly heard: an Amsterdam government report in 2023 acknowledged widespread prejudice against sex workers and promised better police training and victim support. In De Wallen, sex workers have organized to protect themselves. The Prostitution Information Center (PIC) provides tours and advice (run by a union of former workers) and the Red Light Secrets museum offers an insider’s view of the industry.
Sex workers often emphasize safety in numbers: they object strongly to any relocation plan that would isolate them. In October 2023 thousands marched through the district with signs reading “If sex workers are not to blame, why are we being punished?”. This illustrates a key truth: to many workers, De Wallen isn’t just an attraction, but a community where they rely on streetlights, police cameras, and each other for protection. As one worker noted after a recent protest, “closing the windows [and moving them] would only make sex work less safe”.
By daytime, the Red Light District feels surprisingly tame. The late morning sun filters through narrow canals as shopkeepers stock fruit markets and elderly neighbors wheel grocery carts. Many windows are empty or curtained until dusk. Tourists mingle with residents: cyclists navigate carefully past pedestrians snapping photos of the architecture (never of a person without permission). The air smells faintly of fries and coffee from local cafés, not cigarettes or stronger fare. In the early afternoon, the scene can even seem relaxed or quaint.
Rick Steves notes that “in the afternoon and early evening, the streets are filled with tourists and the atmosphere feels plenty safe, even festive”. Families from nearby apartments walk dogs; grandmothers sit chatting on benches; dogs bark in sunlit courtyards. It’s a mix of the ordinary and the unusual. Coffee tables might display sex-themed artwork next to bicycle maps. A tourist guide once observed Amsterdam as “a bold experiment in 21st century freedom,” and indeed at midday that experimental air is more academic curiosity than anything.
By night, however, De Wallen transforms. As dusk falls, strings of red neon glow on the canals; sex workers begin their shifts. Parties start to spill into the alleys, and the narrow streets thrum with chatter, laughter, and club music. Rick Steves warns that after late night, when tourists are gone and only shadowy figures remain, the district “gets creepy”. Indeed, late-night crowds can be rowdy, especially on weekends: groups of young men (often on bachelor or “stag” parties) are common after dark.
A local D66 politician lamented that the quarter has been “spilling over with bachelor parties and tourists dressed up in penis suits, harassing sex workers”. By midnight or later, it can feel like an open-air nightclub: bouncers block certain alleys, live music thumps from a few clubs, and outdoor drinking is rampant. In July 2023, after particularly chaotic nights, a court enforced new closing times: cafes must stop letting new patrons in after 1:00 a.m., and brothels shut by 3:00 a.m. (in the past some stayed open until 6:00 a.m.).
Even in the nighttime crowds, Amsterdam’s strict public order is evident. Police and security are very visible. During peak hours you’ll spot police on foot or horseback patrolling; city “pamphleteers” hand out stickers saying “Enjoy and respect Amsterdam” while warning of fines for littering or public urination (up to €140). Local wardens gently steer revellers off residents’ stoops. In October 2023, even as protesters marched in the red light alleys, police cordons and undercover officers watched quietly from a distance.
DutchNews reports that judges have deemed these precautions necessary to restore “livability” to the neighborhood. Despite its reputation, De Wallen remains relatively safe: opportunistic thefts can happen, but violent crime is low. In fact, Amsterdam generally has low crime rates and a large police presence (especially here), so solo travelers should not feel unduly endangered—use common sense (watch your bags, avoid illegally offered drugs) and you’ll usually be fine even after dark.
One of the most critical guides to De Wallen is: Respect lives here. Despite the District’s wild image, many ordinary Amsterdammers live in and around it. They run shops (bakery, cheese store, clothing boutiques), go to daycare (literally located on one corner of the quarter, with children occasionally straying outside), and frequent local brown cafés. Traditional “bruine kroegen” like Café Mascini on Zeedijk (a cozy old pub with live music) or Brouwerij De Prael (a social brewery-restaurant nearby Oude Kerk) are where you’ll see locals unwinding over Dutch beer. Food trucks selling Vlaams Friteshuis Vleminckx fries often have queues of both residents and tourists alike; their sweet mayo-drenched fries are a local favorite.
Don’t confuse De Wallen with a mere theme park: aside from the peep shows and the odd erotic theatre, it’s a real neighborhood. Residents and working professionals (including many second- and third-generation Dutch-Muslim shop owners along Zeedijk) are usually polite and helpful if you greet them. The key is to blend respect with curiosity. As one travel guide advises, do not loiter outside windows or shout in the alleys, and never take photos of sex workers or their customers. (In Amsterdam, “no photos” signs are common near the windows; at least one news outlet notes that fines or confrontations can follow if tourists snap a worker’s picture.) Also avoid gestures or comments that might embarrass or intimidate. If someone says no, move along without argument. Tip your bartender normally (10% is customary), but do not attempt to pet or bribe anyone you encounter. In short, treat this neighborhood as you would any community: with courtesy, not voyeurism.
Even if you’re not interested in its licentious side, De Wallen offers many worthwhile cultural venues. Oude Kerk (admission fee €10) is a must-see – step inside to view contemporary art installations in its huge nave, or walk the balcony for a rooftop glimpse of the district. Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic, fee €12) is also within the RLD borders on Oudezijds Voorburgwal; it’s a beautifully preserved 17th-century chapel hidden above a house, illustrating Amsterdam’s religious history.
For sex-work history, the Red Light Secrets museum (fee ~€12) offers a respectful, worker-led explanation of the trade. Cannabis enthusiasts may enjoy the Hash Marihuana & Hemp Museum (fee ~€12) on Oudezijds Voorburgwal, which traces the global history of hemp and marijuana. These museums are clustered near the Oude Kerk, so you can visit a church, chapel, and museum within a few blocks. Theater lovers should check the schedule at Theater Frascati or Mascini Theater (both on Zeedijk); these are “brown cafés” by day that turn into fringe theaters and live music venues at night. They often have unusual avant-garde performances, and both serve craft beers.
For a quieter break, slip into De Koffieschenkerij, tucked in a set of canal-side rooms by the back of Oude Kerk. It’s a peaceful spot with vintage décor and excellent coffee– try their homemade apple pie. Even a walk through the small Oudezijds Achterburgwal market (bij Oude Kerk) yields local gems: stalls often sell cheeses and herring from Noord-Holland, as well as smoked eel at the historic Uncle Ben’s Smokehouse. And don’t miss Trompettersteeg itself – you’ll see the tale about it in any guide (the street is barely wider than a guitar’s length). If you follow Trompettersteeg north out to Nieuwmarkt, you’ll find the bustling outdoor square where locals go on market days (especially weekends), and the classic In de Waag café-restaurant housed in a former medieval city gatehouse.
When it comes to food and drink, De Wallen is not about Michelin-starred dining, but it’s rich in character. Breakfast at De Laatste Kruimel (around Nieuwmarkt) or lunch at Vlaamsch Broodhuys bakery are local favorites. For dinner, many locals cross into adjacent neighborhoods (Chinatown to the north on Zeedijk, or the Jordaan to the west) for dim sum or Dutch-Indonesian rijsttafel, but within De Wallen there are a few noteworthy spots: Latei is a charming vegetarian cafe on Oudezijds Voorburgwal with shabby-chic decor and homemade cakes, while Franse Compagnie near the Old Church serves good French-Flemish fare in a warm setting. After dinner, wine bars like Wynand Fockink (on the edge of the Red Light area) offer old-fashioned jenevers and liqueurs in a cabinet-lined space. The Brouwerij de Prael is not only a museum of Dutch beer but also a friendly pub where locals and tourists mingle. It brews traditional blondes and tripels, and its giant wood-paneled hall has communal tables that encourage conversation.
For everyday café culture, Ketelhuisplein and Molenstraat (just outside the red-light core) host neighbourhood brunettes (brown bars) like Café Ebeling or Café Chris (the latter dates from 1624). In the RLD itself, Café ‘t Arendsnest on Prinsengracht (a five-minute walk north) is run by the Dutch Beer Union and offers 100% Dutch-brewed beers on tap – a hit with brewpub fans. And when you need a snack or a piece of bread, look for tiny bakeries (broodjeszaken) or market stands; locals will tell you Kaaswinkel van Wonderen (cheese shop) is a great stop for aged Gouda and the like. The idea is to blend in and support the regular economy, not just do the so-called “coffee shop crawl” or main strip.
Navigating De Wallen respectfully and safely is paramount. Photography: It is strictly forbidden to take pictures of women in the windows or anyone engaging in the sex trade. Workers have a right to privacy and will often react angrily to cameras. Instead, you may photograph the historic buildings, churches, and canal scenes freely. If in doubt, err on the side of not taking that shot. Conduct: Treat sex workers and locals with courtesy. You may hear “hallo schatje” (hello darling) from vendors trying to sell souvenirs, but unsolicited comments (especially sexual) toward those behind windows are frowned upon and can even risk fines.
Always say “alstublieft” or “dankuwel” (“please” and “thank you”) in Dutch when purchasing something. Never try to enter a brothel without an invitation. Public drunkenness is illegal (and enforced): the city advertises that open alcohol bottles or pipes attract fines. Use trash bins (cigarette and joint butts litter the morning cleanup crews, not the scenery). Take care on the cobbles: they can be slippery, and canals have no guardrails everywhere. In brief, De Wallen is a workspace and home for hundreds; act as if you’re a guest in a neighborhood church or café.
Amsterdam’s attitudes toward De Wallen are in flux. The city’s first female mayor, Femke Halsema, has made major moves to reshape the district. While the Dutch model of legalized prostitution is often praised (sex work is taxed, and workers have healthcare and union representation), many officials worry that De Wallen’s reputation as a party center is hurting Amsterdam’s quality of life. Indeed, the city recorded 17 million visitors in 2019, and a large share flock to this quarter, often in search of wild nightlife. Amsterdam sees near-record tourist numbers today, and local leaders fret that many are “flooding” De Wallen just to gawk or misbehave. Complaints range from noise and drunkenness to invasive behavior: sex workers routinely say tourists snap photos of them without permission and taunt them.
In response, Amsterdam has begun to impose stricter measures. Bars now lose the license to admit new patrons after 1 a.m., and any brothel must cease operations by 3 a.m.. From Thursday to Sunday, the district officially closes around 1–3 a.m.: cafés stop serving at 2 a.m., and brothels shut by 3 a.m.. The “Stay Away” campaign launched in 2023 specifically warns young foreign tourists (especially from the UK) that Amsterdam seeks respectful visitors, not rowdy partygoers. City tax on tourists has climbed to 12.5% (the EU’s highest) in an effort to curb over-tourism. Plans for a so-called “erotic center” on the city outskirts (an off-street site with purpose-built windows) were announced, drawing fierce debate. The idea: relocate many window prostitutes to a new facility near the RAI conference center and shrink De Wallen back to a smaller zone. Proponents say this balances Amsterdam’s culture of openness with resident concerns. Opponents – especially sex workers themselves and local businesses – say it risks isolating workers and damaging livelihoods. In March 2023, over a thousand sex workers and sympathizers even marched to City Hall chanting that they felt “punished” for others’ misbehavior. One worker, “Lucie,” dismissed the plan as “one big gentrification project,” protesting that existing windows are built around thriving bars and foot traffic.
Gentrification and change are palpable on the streets. Rick Steves notes that trendy restaurants and boutiques have begun moving in alongside the sleaze. Over the past decade, some of the dingier sex shops have closed or morphed into generic souvenir outlets. By late night, some formerly boisterous bars have emptied out, as advertisements hint: “This is not a tourist attraction.” Whether these efforts succeed remains uncertain. Many expect a compromise: preserving some red-light heritage while better integrating it into city life. For the traveler today, the balance is: De Wallen is still an active sex-work district and tourist draw, but it also has imposed curfews, and local campaigns aim to educate visitors. The atmosphere changes quickly around you – as one Amsterdam resident lamented, “it just doesn’t feel like this is my city anymore” due to rowdy crowds – prompting the city to experiment with new policies.
Ultimately, a thoughtful visit to Amsterdam’s Red Light District is as much about context as spectacle. Don’t just stare at the windows; listen to the city’s voices. Walk the narrow stone lanes of Oudezijds Voorburgwal and imagine centuries of history in those bricks. Pause in the peaceful De Koffieschenkerij to sip a mellow brew away from the neon hustle. Chat with a bartender at Mascini about local politics or a street vendor about the old millennial architecture. This is a living neighborhood, still serving sailors and seekers much as it did 400 years ago, but it’s also at the heart of Amsterdam’s struggle to define itself.
On any evening you might see a group of solemn women in masks picketing for their rights, then minutes later pass a laughing group of tourists in outlandish costume. The Dutch have chosen to tolerate and regulate rather than ban the sex trade – reflecting an attitude that says, in effect: “We’ll accept others’ choices and avoid new prisons.” You might find that pragmatism bracing or unsettling. Regardless, there’s no doubt it’s fascinating.
By the time you step out of De Wallen, blinking into the quiet Oudezijds Voorburgwal or the Sunday morning light, the contrast will hit you: the city behind you is rough and tender, sacred and profane. It is, in short, Amsterdam in miniature – chaotic and beautiful, ever-changing yet steeped in tradition. Take a deep breath of the canal air, and you carry with you a reminder of a city that once dared to let its wicked lanterns burn bright for all to see.
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