Riffa

Nestled about 15 kilometers south of Manama, Riffa (Al-Rifāʿ) sprawls across roughly 41 square kilometers, making it Bahrain’s second-largest city by area. From the vantage of the historic Riffa Fort, one can take in a panorama of the city’s white buildings and brown-red fort walls. Modern Riffa is formally divided into East Riffa, West Riffa, and North Riffa, all lying in Bahrain’s Southern Governorate. Once the island’s principal settlement, Riffa predates Manama as Bahrain’s economic and political hub; it was only in the late 19th century that Manama’s port eclipsed Riffa in prominence. This layered history still resonates in the city’s built environment, where ancient forts perch above new villa estates.

Table of Contents

1 East Riffa – From Working-Class District to Growth Hub
2 West Riffa – The Royal Enclave
- 2.1 North Riffa – Affordable Suburbia
3 Sectarian and Social Divides
4 Political Unrest and Protest Culture
5 Urban Growth, Economy, and Daily Life
6 Landmarks and Cultural Highlights
7 Conclusion: A City of Contrasts

East Riffa – From Working-Class District to Growth Hub

East Riffa has traditionally been an urban working-class quarter. For decades this district was known for modest neighborhoods, government-subsidized housing, and local industry rather than luxury. In recent years, however, East Riffa has undergone a dramatic transformation. State housing projects under Bahrain’s expansive Government Action Plan (GAP) have delivered thousands of homes to ordinary citizens (as the government proudly noted in 2018). This inflow of affordable housing—supplemented by expansive developments like Khalifa Town—helped make East Riffa one of the most budget-friendly places to live in Bahrain.

At the same time, a wave of private development has reshaped East Riffa’s skyline. Anchor projects include Riffa Views, a gated Arcapita-built community of over 900 villas and townhouses set around an 18-hole golf course. This lush, Mediterranean-themed enclave (with artificial lakes and gardens) even hosts a brand-new international school and borders the campus of the Royal University for Women. Adjacent to Riffa Views are the Enma Mall and a LuLu Hypermarket, two major shopping centers that have given East Riffa new regional draw. (East Riffa also still offers traditional commerce: the old Souk al-Rifaa and the Bukuwara Street Market remain lively hubs for bargain hunting.) In short, East Riffa’s real estate market has surged: affordable housing and large-scale private projects have converted a once-staid district into one of Bahrain’s fastest-growing areas.

East Riffa now hosts both staples of Bahraini life and modern amenities. It is home to the national sports complex – the Bahrain National Stadium, where football matches and national events are held – and to the Royal Golf Club, an 18-hole championship course that is widely regarded as one of the city’s premier attractions. (As one guide notes, “playing golf in the Royal Golf Club is considered one of the top activities” in the area.) Health and retail services abound: there is an Al Rayan Medical Complex in East Riffa, and franchises like Carrefour serve everyday needs. At the same time, local entrepreneurs have opened gyms, eateries, and entertainment venues, giving East Riffa a “thriving restaurant scene” and fitness culture. In sum, day-to-day life in East Riffa mixes the familiar bustle of Bahraini souqs with the conveniences of new malls and sports clubs, reflecting its new status as both a traditional neighborhood and an up-and-coming urban hub.

Crucially, East Riffa’s demographics and politics distinguish it from its West Riffa counterpart. Unlike the predominantly Sunni West, East Riffa’s population is religiously mixed – a blend of Shiite and Sunni Bahraini families plus many expatriates. In fact, many observers note that this diversity is no accident: by unwritten policy, Sunnis and royals were effectively restricted to West Riffa, so Shia and Ibadi communities naturally clustered in East Riffa where housing was available. Human rights groups have long documented that “Shiites are not allowed to live in the ‘Riffa’ neighbourhood” reserved for the royal clan and Sunni elite. As a result, East Riffa has become a social melting pot – a point often noted by Bahraini commentators – even as that segregation has fostered tensions. For decades the two halves of Riffa were sharply divided by these sectarian housing policies: “quasi-apartheid” is one term used to describe it. In practice, many Shia and Ibadi families have moved from West Riffa to East Riffa for affordable housing. This migration has infused East Riffa’s character with greater diversity, but also made it a flashpoint when national grievances boil over.

Indeed, East Riffa has seen its share of political unrest. As one Bahraini guide observes, East Riffa “was formerly known as one of the most dangerous areas in Bahrain” because of sectarian and political clashes. Some of the earliest demonstrations of the 1990s uprising occurred in Riffa, inspired by a nationwide demand for democratic reforms. The pattern repeated in 2011 during the Arab Spring: in March 2011 thousands of anti-regime protesters planned a march through Riffa, seeking even to reach the royal palace. They were met by large groups of armed Sunnis and heavy police presence. According to CNN, “hundreds of people were injured in Bahrain” in one day of Riffa clashes, as rival Sunni and Shia factions fought beside the road. The health ministry later confirmed roughly 774 injured on that day alone. In the words of one diplomat, the incident was a “sectarian conflict” between Bahraini Shia and Sunni groups. Over the next weeks, Riffa saw repeated confrontations, sometimes involving live ammunition or stun grenades. By contrast, after the Arab Spring East Riffa’s disturbances gradually subsided as nationwide protests were repressed, but the period left a lasting mark on the community.

The neighboring Shiite village of Ma‘ameer had a similar experience of confrontation. In mid-2015, Bahraini security forces violently dispersed anti-government protests in Ma‘ameer (an industrial village south of Riffa), firing tear gas into crowds. Residents in Ma‘ameer – home to refinery workers – have long complained about discrimination and pollution. That village’s protests often ran parallel to unrest in Shia quarters like East Riffa and Sitra, underscoring a national pattern. In both Riffa and Ma‘ameer, the clash of communities over national grievances became a local flashpoint. In short, while East Riffa has flourished in recent years, it also carries the memory of Bahrain’s sectarian conflicts. This duality – a prospering mixed neighborhood shadowed by political fault-lines – is a defining feature of life in East Riffa.

West Riffa – The Royal Enclave

By contrast, West Riffa has long been synonymous with Bahrain’s ruling class. This elevated neighborhood (sometimes just called Riffa Palace area) is almost entirely residential, and nearly all its villas are occupied by the Al Khalifa royal family, government ministers, business leaders, and other Sunni elites. King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa’s own palace is located here, alongside the home of the late Prime Minister Sheikh Khalifa bin Salman Al Khalifa. A local observer notes simply: “West Riffa is mainly a residential area where most of the ruling family, ministers and business investors live.” Unwritten rules have historically excluded Shia (and even the small Ibadi minority) from settling here, as former reports complained. Even today West Riffa’s population is overwhelmingly Sunni. This Sunni dominance is apparent in the cityscape: luxury compounds and guarded gates vastly outnumber the apartments and public housing that characterize East Riffa.

West Riffa contains many of Riffa’s most iconic landmarks. On the city’s skyline is the classic Riffa Clock Tower, a white 1960s-era monument that still ticks atop a main roundabout; it stands at the heart of West Riffa. Also here is the Riffa Palace itself: once the seat of past Bahraini rulers Sheikh Salman bin Hamad and Isa bin Salman Al Khalifa, it now serves as a museum of royal history. The reddish-blond stone Sheikh Salman Bin Ahmad Al Fateh Fort (often simply “Riffa Fort”) also lies on the western edge of the city, overlooking both old East Riffa and the newer West with commanding views. That fort was not only a defensive fortress but also a royal residence (one ruler, Shaikh Isa bin Ali, was actually born in its tower). Other distinctive features of West Riffa are its natural springs: Al Hunaynya and Umm Ghwayfa are two ancient freshwater springs famed in Bahraini lore as providing “the purest and finest water” in the island. These springs once made Riffa a critical oasis settlement.

In everyday terms, West Riffa’s character is quiet and upscale. Apart from household staff, there are few commercial zones or markets here. The roads are lined with trees and large villas behind perimeter walls. The contrast with East Riffa is often remarked upon: while East Riffa bustles with shops and traffic, West Riffa’s streets feel like a series of suburbs dedicated to family life and government business. West Riffa also boasts much greener lawns and private gardens, thanks to plentiful water from the springs and desalination. Public amenities in West Riffa include some high-end sports facilities (a polo club and equestrian center) and a national school for boys, but no cinema or public market; residents drive to East Riffa or Manama for most shopping and entertainment. In effect, West Riffa functions almost as a gated compound for Bahrain’s top echelon – a fact summed up by AsiaNews: Shiites “are not allowed to live in the ‘Riffa’ neighbourhood, a residential area reserved for the royal family and Sunnis.”

North Riffa – Affordable Suburbia

North Riffa is the city’s third sector, comprising newer suburbs and developments to the north of the old town. It lacks the political symbolism of West Riffa or the density of East Riffa, but it plays a role in Riffa’s fabric. In recent listings and reports, North Riffa stands out as an affordable zone for families. For example, one market guide notes that North Riffa (along with West Riffa) offers the cheapest villa rentals in Bahrain. Many of North Riffa’s neighborhoods consist of villa compounds built for middle-income Bahrainis. There are schools, mosques, and some shopping centers, but no major tourist attractions. Villages like Isa Town and Hamad Town (nearby, often lumped with North Riffa) contain large government housing projects. In short, North Riffa has become a practical extension of the city – quieter than the historic center, but with more room for expansion. Demographically it is mixed Sunni/Shia, reflecting its role as a catchment for newly built housing. Though overshadowed in history books by East and West Riffa, North Riffa is steadily growing into an integral part of the wider Riffa community.

Sectarian and Social Divides

Underlying Riffa’s geography is a sectarian mosaic that has defined much of Bahrain’s modern politics. Bahrain is a country where a Shia Muslim majority coexists under a Sunni ruling family. In Riffa, this national reality is manifested in stark spatial terms. As described, West Riffa is almost exclusively Sunni and upper-class, while East Riffa is mixed but has a large Shia component. Observers have even dubbed this arrangement a “quasi-apartheid”, where unwritten housing laws keep communities separate. Under this system, Sunnis and royal-connected families have priority in West Riffa, while many Shias (and some Ibadis) are effectively forced to reside in East Riffa or northern suburbs.

The impact of this segregation is profound. It means that Shia citizens often live in older, denser neighborhoods with less investment, while Sunnis occupy newer gated communities. It also has electoral consequences: constituency boundaries are drawn so that Sunnis have more representation despite being a minority. On a social level, the divide can be seen in schooling, social clubs, and even the vernacular: Bahraini children learn from a young age which part of Riffa is considered “ours” versus “theirs.” International human rights reports have repeatedly criticized Bahrain for marginalizing its Shia population in housing, jobs, and political power. One example is that despite Al Hunaynya’s groundwater (in West Riffa), Shia citizens were historically barred from purchasing land there.

This segregation also breeds grievances that sometimes boil into open conflict. Many Shia Riffa residents feel their families have been sidelined by the state. In turn, some Sunni residents feel threatened by Shia demands. The result has been a string of flare-ups over the years, from the 1990s demonstrations to the riots of 2011. Even on calm days, the memory of these clashes shapes interactions between neighborhoods. For example, after the 2011 protests, the government bulldozed several Shia mosques (largely in Shia villages and suburbs) – a move often seen as part of sectarian retribution. In Riffa itself, the decade since 2011 has seen heightened security at entrances to royal areas, and sporadic arrests of activists. Yet ironically, the same policies that segregated Riffa have also spurred its growth: East Riffa’s neighborhoods swelled with Shia and Ibadi families who built communities there, enriching the district’s cultural mix and economy. In many ways, Riffa stands as a microcosm of Bahrain’s sectarian challenge – divided in daily life, but integrated in shared history and development.

Political Unrest and Protest Culture

Historically, Riffa played a prominent role in Bahrain’s periods of political unrest. In the 1990s uprising, which demanded restoration of parliament and wider reforms, Riffa’s Shia population joined the national movement. Protests and strikes swept villages and towns including Riffa, Manama, and Sitra. Many young Riffa demonstrators were arrested after 1994, and clashes between protestors and security forces occasionally turned violent. These events set a pattern: whenever Bahrain’s Shiites mobilized, Riffa often saw protests, posters, and confrontations.

The most intense unrest in recent memory came with the Arab Spring of 2011. As wave of regional uprisings reached Bahrain, thousands of Bahrainis (mostly Shia) converged on Manama’s Pearl Roundabout. Parallel demonstrations occurred in Riffa – notably in East Riffa, which is only 15 minutes by road from the Royal Palace. On 11 March 2011, two large rallies attempted to march through West Riffa to the palace. Security forces and nervous residents erected barricades. The CNN report on those clashes (cited by observers worldwide) wrote: “Hundreds of people were injured in Bahrain Friday, when rival groups clashed over an attempted march in the town of Riffa.” Health authorities counted some 774 injured that day. It was widely acknowledged that one side of the clash was made up of hard-line Shiite activists, while the other consisted of well-armed pro-government Sunnis (many alleged vigilantes). In the aftermath, a fact-finding commission noted that the clashes were profoundly sectarian in nature. The Bahraini ambassador to the U.S. even publicly described the fight as a “sectarian conflict” between Shia and Sunni factions.

In the years that followed, Bahrain’s authorities cracked down on dissent throughout the kingdom, including in Riffa. Pro-government forces patrolled heavily around West Riffa, and security checks became routine on the highways into East Riffa. By 2015 and beyond, protests in Riffa had largely subsided, but the memory remained. Meanwhile, Shiite-majority villages like Ma‘ameer (just west of Riffa) continued sporadic demonstrations. For instance, in August 2015 Ma‘ameer residents marched to demand the release of activists, only to be met by tear gas from security forces. Government harassment and arrests of Shia leaders remained common nationwide.

Today, Riffa’s protests are mostly a thing of the past, but the city’s politics remain charged. Local elections (for the tiny municipal council) often turn on sectarian lines, and national votes allocate disproportionate seats to Sunni-majority districts. Yet there is also a degree of social quiet: unlike its neighbor Sitra or nearby villages, Riffa has not seen open defiance in years. Some analysts argue that the government’s heavy investment in public works (like the new parks and roads in East Riffa) was partly aimed at pacifying restive areas. Certainly, East Riffa’s skyline today tells a different story – one of booming growth rather than barricades.

Urban Growth, Economy, and Daily Life

By most measures, modern Riffa is booming. Its population has grown steadily: from around 80,000 at the turn of the millennium to well over 115,000 by 2012. The city now blends ancient heritage with Gulf-era development. On any given day, one can witness modern villa communities under construction right alongside camel pastures and date palms. Riffa’s economy remains diverse: local shops, small factories (especially around Ma‘ameer and Nuwaidrat), plus a growing service sector of malls and restaurants. Commerce is especially vibrant in East Riffa, where each new mall or hypermarket draws car traffic from across the island.

For residents, daily life in Riffa can vary greatly depending on neighborhood. In East Riffa, working-class areas still hum with market activity: wet markets, fabric souks, and roadside grills. These traditional centers co-exist with new amenities: after-work crowds might head to Home Centre or Carrefour at Enma Mall for groceries and housewares. Cafés and cafes dot the streets, serving Arabic coffee (gahwa), tea, and sweet desserts. Many young families frequent the parks and sports fields behind the new apartment blocks. Education is important: Riffa is home to several well-known schools, including the Riffa International School (an English-language K–12 institution) and newer branches of international curricula. The presence of the Royal University for Women adds a college-town vibe to Riffa Views in the evenings. Health services are readily available; besides Al Rayan Hospital in East Riffa, there are clinics and dental offices serving the populace.

West Riffa’s daily rhythm is different. It is much quieter and more sedate, punctuated by the morning and evening rush of servants’ cars and armed chauffeurs. A typical weekday sees little on the major rounds beyond occasional maintenance crews or official motorcades. Children in private schools are often driven past the green lawns of Riffa Palace. The few small supermarkets and bakeries in West Riffa tend to cater to expats and staff. If anything, West Riffa residents drive outward for leisure: a game of polo in A’ali, or a shopping trip to Juffair, is more common than a night out in the city.

One of the biggest changes in everyday Riffa is shopping and entertainment. Ten years ago, East Riffa had no real malls, only local shops. Now it boasts Enma Mall (with a Geant Hypermarket and cinemas), Lulu Hypermarket Mall, and several smaller shopping centers. These new facilities offer multinational retail chains and entertainment complexes that rival those in Manama. Families can spend weekends browsing electronics, fashion, and home goods under air-conditioned roofs. Two main thoroughfares – East Riffa’s Riffa Market Street and Bukuwara Street – have themselves been modernized to look more like Manama’s main districts. Still, Riffa keeps one foot in its past: East Riffa’s old Riffa Souq (Souk al-Rifaa) remains, selling textiles and antiques, and a traditional camel market is still held once a week on the city outskirts.

Infrastructure-wise, the city has benefited from national investment. In recent years, new highways and overpasses have reduced travel time to and from Manama or the King Fahd Causeway. Public bus lines connect Riffa to other towns, and a new inter-city bus terminal was built near East Riffa Market. Street lighting, sidewalks, and parks have been upgraded under government beautification drives. Riffa also hosts some major institutions: besides the stadium and golf club, there is a large equestrian complex (the Rashid Equestrian & Horseracing Club) on the north edge of town, reflecting Bahrain’s love of horse racing.

Economically, Riffa thrives on a mix of government salaries and private commerce. Many residents work in national government in Manama or in defence (given the proximity to the Kuwait-Bahrain military corridor). Others commute to industrial zones or to the financial jobs in the capital. Locally, businesses – ranging from family-owned restaurants to foreign franchises – employ thousands. The recently-opened Marina & Yacht Club in Riffa provides boating services, hinting at a niche marine economy. Overall, East Riffa’s cost of living remains lower than Manama’s, which partly explains its appeal to middle-class families. According to property guides, North and West Riffa are now the cheapest areas to rent villas, followed by East Riffa for apartments. This affordability is an important pull factor for young couples and expatriate workers choosing Riffa over pricier quarters.

Landmarks and Cultural Highlights

Amid rapid change, Riffa’s landmarks anchor it in Bahrain’s heritage. In East Riffa, the most famous historic site is Riffa Fort (Sheikh Salman Fort). Overlooking East and West Riffa from its ridge-top perch, this 19th-century fortress was both a palace and bastion for the Al Khalifa. Today it serves as a museum (Salaam Centre) and event space. Inside, it houses well-preserved rooms, a rare watchtower, and exhibits on Bahrian’s history. A visitor at the fort can literally stand on a wall that once defended the old capital, while gazing out toward Manama’s skyline to the north.

Just across a valley, the Riffa Palace stands in West Riffa. Built in the mid-19th century by Sheikh Isa bin Ali, the palace compound has honey-colored stone buildings and flagpoles. After Bahrain’s rulers moved their primary residence north, the palace fell into ruin but has been restored and opened to tourists. It now contains period furnishings and royal memorabilia, conveying the lifestyle of pre-oil Bahrain’s royalty. Both fort and palace are linked by myths: they were sites where notable events like treaty signings and royal births took place.

Riffa’s religious architecture also draws attention. Sheikh Isa bin Ali’s grandson, Sheikh Issa, built a large mosque (Sheikh Isa bin Salih Mosque) in East Riffa that is one of Bahrain’s most beautiful modern mosques. Separately, the Bahrain International Circuit (home of the Formula 1 race) lies a few kilometers south of Riffa (technically in Sakhir), bringing global visitors and hotels close by. Closer still to Riffa is the Royal Golf Club, where both local and international golf tournaments occur annually.

Each division of Riffa also fosters its own cultural life. East Riffa hosts the Bahrain Military Museum, reflecting the town’s early role as a Bahrain Defense Force base; that museum showcases uniforms and weapons dating back to the 1940s. Riffa’s souks and cafes showcase Bahraini daily life: quiet pastry shops serve basbousa and luqaimat to elderly men in the morning, while youth hang out at bubble tea stands in the afternoon. Unlike Manama, Riffa has no real nightlife, but it has several family-oriented recreation spots. The Bahraini Royal Family annually holds an autumn camel festival at nearby fields, which some Riffa residents attend. Cultural coexistence is normal here: Sunni and Shia Bahraini families often socialize (for example at mixed sports clubs or weddings) despite political tensions. The city also celebrates national holidays (e.g. National Day parades) in a unified way.

In education and culture, Riffa is investing for the future. Besides schools and universities, there are upcoming plans for a cultural center in the city. Local artists hold art exhibitions at a small gallery on Sheikh Isa Street. The urban design of new Riffa (especially Riffa Views) emphasizes green spaces and community centers, reflecting Bahrain’s broader ambitions for sustainable city development.

Conclusion: A City of Contrasts

Riffa today is a city of contrasts. On one hand, it carries the legacy of Bahrain’s history – royal palaces, tribal villages, and a proud water-carrier tradition. On the other hand, it embodies modern Bahrain: brand-new malls, real estate projects, and cosmopolitan residents. In East Riffa, skyscrapers of glass and steel reflect the Gulf’s contemporary urbanism, even as elders discuss the old canals of qanat irrigation. In West Riffa, ultra-modern villas stand where long ago the royal family rode out on horseback to the oasis. Across these districts, the rhythm of life can shift dramatically from one neighborhood to the next, mirroring the broader Sunni-Shia divide of Bahraini society.

Yet Riffa’s story is not one-dimensional. Its recent growth – with the addition of international schools, hospitals, and retail centers – has improved living standards for many long-term residents. New roads and amenities have knitted East and North Riffa more tightly into the kingdom’s economy. The royal court continues to invest in Riffa’s infrastructure (e.g. funding a new sports city and housing complexes). At the same time, Riffa’s social fractures remind observers that urban development alone cannot heal political grievances.

In the end, Riffa’s portrait is one of dynamism and complexity. It is a city where “old” Bahrain and “new” Bahrain literally share the same skyline, and where a quiet suburb and a bustling market street can be only a ten-minute drive apart. Long-time residents of East Riffa have seen their blocks transformed by shiny new shops and apartments, while West Riffa families maintain lifestyles much unchanged from the era of horses and carriages. The coexistence of these worlds – historical glory and contemporary ambition, Sunni privilege and Shia communities – makes Riffa an instructive microcosm of Bahrain itself. With continued development, better dialogue, and economic opportunities, Riffa could further bridge its internal divides. For now, observers can walk the length of Riffa’s streets and literally traverse the chapters of Bahrain’s history and its unfolding future.